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2006 buick lucerne cxl 3800 series. Oil Drain bolt head is rounded out.

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chrisbek100

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So I recently got bought a nice blue colored buick lucerne clx 2006 with the 3.8 litre engine about 2 weeks ago. The car is in pretty good shape.

I am slowly doing some some tune ups on the car and decided to change the oil.

I have no idea when the oil was last done but figured I might as well do it before winter hits.

I jacked up the car and tried to turn the oil drain plug.

It was on there tight. Like super super tight. Seems the last person who did the oil change went nuts on this plug and really torqued it down. I can only assume with an impact gun.

I tried to get a 6 point socket on the oil drain bolt but there is not enough clearance to attach the ratchet and a 13mm socket due to the transmission pan being in the way.

I tried a crows foot which has 5 points of contact but the drain plug is on really tight.

Tried to use a regular wrench and still it would not turn.

Tried to use a propane torch to heat it up.

Still would not budge.

Eventually the head on the hex on the drain plug bolt became deformed and is slightly rounded now and won't turn using a wrench.

I have purchased a bolt extractor kit here:


Should I use the 13 mm bolt extractor or is there a better way or solution to get this bolt out?

Friend suggested vice grips but I just don't want to deform the hex bolt anymore using a vice grips.

Figured I would ask here with those with more experience before I make something worse.

I have never had this problem ever before with my other sliver colored 2006 cx when I did oil changes on it. I always tighten the oil pan bolt hand tight and give it a nice slight turn and ensure its on snug and perfect. It always came off easy and always went back on easy.
 
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good bolt extactor would be my recomendation they work well. then easy enough to purchase a new plug and gasket to replace
 
If you Google Stuck Oil Pan Bolt you can see a host of suggestions. Somewhat depends on what tools are available, access to the bolt and skillset. Here's one that is interesting.
 
good bolt extactor would be my recomendation they work well. then easy enough to purchase a new plug and gasket to replace
Decided to go with the bolt extractor kit. Thank you Generle for suggesting it. It worked like a charm.

Before using the bolt extractor I took a flat circular punch and hammed the bolt to shock it.

Then I used a propane torch and really heated the bolt.

After heating the bolt I applied some pb blaster and let it soak for half an hour.

Took the bolt extractor and it really bit into the bolt even with it being rounded out. It latched on tight and gripped it firmly. I was finally able to turn the oil pan bolt.

The plug is off.

I put on a dorman 090-034cd plug as it was available at the local auto shop and in stock.

Put on ac delco pf47e filter on and filled the oil.

Engine is already running smoother now.

The maximum bolt extractor kit worked great.
If you Google Stuck Oil Pan Bolt you can see a host of suggestions. Somewhat depends on what tools are available, access to the bolt and skillset. Here's one that is interesting.

Thank you Lucerne I did watch that video before you posted it along with a few many others. Just wanted to ask those more experienced like yourself because once I do something stupid or foolish there is sometimes no way to undo it.

Better to ask those with more experience and take my time then make a problem even more worse.

Appreciate your help both of you.
 

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Glad you found a solution. Over the years I have probably collected as many tools for stuck bolts and nuts as I do for putting them on lol.
 
for Future reference, the drain plug torque for the 3.8 is 22 Ft.-Lbs; this was verified with my digital service manual.
 
for Future reference, the drain plug torque for the 3.8 is 22 Ft.-Lbs; this was verified with my digital service manual.
That's an interesting spec (not doubting that thats the spec)..... but I find that a bit aggressive....
 
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