1971 Buick Skylark 350 Takes forever to start

[MelsRegal]

Replaced it a few days ago and still was the same as before

When you opened the top was there gas in the carburetor?

 

[Jackhammer0312]

When you opened the top was there gas in the carburetor?

Yup, both bowls were full but had some dirt and stuff in the bottom. Cleaned all that, replaced the accelerator pump, then reinstalled the top and checked for squirts and saw nothing. After starting it up though by pouring gas down the carb to initially start it, it runs fine and it'll start back up just fine which is boggling the mind a little

 

[DrivenDaily]

With fuel in the bowl and new pump parts, I'd see about checking the accelerator pump openings. They could be clogged.

 

[MelsRegal]

Yup, both bowls were full but had some dirt and stuff in the bottom. Cleaned all that, replaced the accelerator pump, then reinstalled the top and checked for squirts and saw nothing. After starting it up though by pouring gas down the carb to initially start it, it runs fine and it'll start back up just fine which is boggling the mind a little

Then you have dirt in the carburetor passages and have to disassemble and clean.

 

[LARRY70GS]

There is a one way check valve that fills the accelerator pump cylinder from the fuel bowl. Make sure that is not blocked or not functioning. The Accelerator pump plunger can't pump fuel if there is none in the cylinder. Sounds like the carburetor needs a complete cleaning/rebuild.

 

[Brian Atom]

A month ago I acquired an awesome 1971 Buick Skylark 350 that runs and drives good, but it takes absolutely forever to start no matter the weather. Now it will start up after about 5 seconds after I drive it somewhere like the store or to go eat and leaving it parked for a few hours and then going to start it makes it start 100 times quicker, but when I go and start it in the morning it takes around 5mins to get it started and usually ends up with me having to jump it with my truck and even then it takes awhile to start. I went through and replaced all sparkplugs, sparkplug wires, ignition coil, and distributor cap and rotor and it made no difference other than idling better. It has a small leaks here and there, one of them was the fuel pump gasket. I got a new gasket for it today and when I went to put it on I realized there was no gasket there in the first place! Thought maybe that was causing low fuel pressure or something, but alas I was wrong.

Could it be the carb (It has an Edelbrock 1405 4bbl)? Low fuel pressure? Something I'm over looking? Getting kinda desperate because I just want to start it within 30 seconds when I leave for work in the mornings. Any and all help is greatly appreciated.

The dwell meter is a good tool to get and use. Forget the timing light. The marks are set up for the leaded gas used at the time the car was made. Your correct timing setting won’t be on the mark. It’s an okay starting point but I set the timing by feel and listening to how it runs. I have several extra timing lights and dwell meters I could have sold you. The timing lights are more for display though! Kind of Flash Gordon looking or vintage new in box. If you have an original tank you might need to replace it due to rust. My boat tail Riviera tank was impossible to find (30 years ago that is) so I had it “plasticized”. That worked great and will last forever. I’m in Wicker Park if you want to chat. You will get it going there aren’t too many things to have to work through unlike my 2005 Lacrosse with endless electrical problems I’m struggling to figure out! Good luck!

 

[LARRY70GS]

Back in 2002, I wrote a Power Timing thread on v8buick.com. I explains how to set the timing on most early Buick engines. Ignition timing is the most misunderstood topic in classic car maintenance. If you own and know how to use a timing light, it is very easy. Buick engines make the best power with a total timing (not including vacuum advance) of 30-34*.

Power Timing your Buick V8

I thought I would try and compose this post to answer timing questions I see all the time on this BB. I see alot of questions about what initial...

www.v8buick.com

 

[Brian Atom]

Back in 2002, I wrote a Power Timing thread on v8buick.com. I explains how to set the timing on most early Buick engines. Ignition timing is the most misunderstood topic in classic car maintenance. If you own and know how to use a timing light, it is very easy. Buick engines make the best power with a total timing (not including vacuum advance) of 30-34*.

Power Timing your Buick V8

I thought I would try and compose this post to answer timing questions I see all the time on this BB. I see alot of questions about what initial...

www.v8buick.com

A guy like Larry here tweaked my stock carb for me better than I could ever have. I would think the timing is going to depend on what kind of gas you are using. Back in the day when leaded premium was readily available the 1970 big blocks would be spot on at the factory setting. Of course there are many other variables that can affect the timing. I learned many of the “hillbilly” methods from my mechanic that might seem unprofessional but actually get the job done…if you have the feel for it. Timing and tuning by “ear” works if you have the ear for it and the end result is very close if not the same as using the right tools. I’m not running a race car though, just every day drivers!

 

[LARRY70GS]

A guy like Larry here tweaked my stock carb for me better than I could ever have. I would think the timing is going to depend on what kind of gas you are using. Back in the day when leaded premium was readily available the 1970 big blocks would be spot on at the factory setting. Of course there are many other variables that can affect the timing. I learned many of the “hillbilly” methods from my mechanic that might seem unprofessional but actually get the job done…if you have the feel for it. Timing and tuning by “ear” works if you have the ear for it and the end result is very close if not the same as using the right tools. I’m not running a race car though, just every day drivers!

I understand, but here's the thing, if you look at the specifications for the factory distributors, they varied a lot. The amount of mechanical advance built into them were all different. Some had as much as 30-34* of mechanical advance built into them, others had as little as 12-16*. Have a look.

Distributor Part #s and Specs, 1965, 66, 66, 67, 68, 69, 70, 71, 72, 74

Ethan (Hugger) asked me about this so I thought it would be useful to post. It is in order top to bottom starting with 1965. I am missing 1973,...

www.v8buick.com

The V8 distributors from 1968 and up were all interchangeable. You could even take a 350 distributor and run it in a 455, and visa-versa. All it took was a distributor gear change. So you buy a 50+ year old car and set the factory initial timing by the book, but the distributor was changed out decades ago, but all you know is what the book says, so you set it to that, and now the engine has no power, or it rattles and does a cheap imitation of a diesel. So you do the timing by ear method, "you advance the timing until it talks to you", then back it off, but you never know exactly where it is running, and you have no reference for fine tuning. You might be close, or you might be way off, but your butt dyno says, "good enough".

Again my point is, timing lights are not very expensive, and if you know how to use one, you'll know exactly what you are running. Most people think setting the timing begins and ends with the initial timing at idle. It does not. As soon as the RPM goes above idle, the mechanical and vacuum advance add timing. The 68 and up Buick V8's make best power at 30-34* of wide open throttle high RPM timing. You can use various techniques, distributor weight springs and a timing light to set that WOT timing precisely and then the idle timing takes care of itself. It is what it has to be for whatever distributor happens to be in your newly purchased classic Buick. Lots of things get changed in a 50+ year old car.

 

[Brian Atom]

I understand, but here's the thing, if you look at the specifications for the factory distributors, they varied a lot. The amount of mechanical advance built into them were all different. Some had as much as 30-34* of mechanical advance built into them, others had as little as 12-16*. Have a look.

Distributor Part #s and Specs, 1965, 66, 66, 67, 68, 69, 70, 71, 72, 74

Ethan (Hugger) asked me about this so I thought it would be useful to post. It is in order top to bottom starting with 1965. I am missing 1973,...

www.v8buick.com

The V8 distributors from 1968 and up were all interchangeable. You could even take a 350 distributor and run it in a 455, and visa-versa. All it took was a distributor gear change. So you buy a 50+ year old car and set the factory initial timing by the book, but the distributor was changed out decades ago, but all you know is what the book says, so you set it to that, and now the engine has no power, or it rattles and does a cheap imitation of a diesel. So you do the timing by ear method, "you advance the timing until it talks to you", then back it off, but you never know exactly where it is running, and you have no reference for fine tuning. You might be close, or you might be way off, but your butt dyno says, "good enough".

Again my point is, timing lights are not very expensive, and if you know how to use one, you'll know exactly what you are running. Most people think setting the timing begins and ends with the initial timing at idle. It does not. As soon as the RPM goes above idle, the mechanical and vacuum advance add timing. The 68 and up Buick V8's make best power at 30-34* of wide open throttle high RPM timing. You can use various techniques, distributor weight springs and a timing light to set that WOT timing precisely and then the idle timing takes care of itself. It is what it has to be for whatever distributor happens to be in your newly purchased classic Buick. Lots of things get changed in a 50+ year old car.

If any of you guys need a timing light or dwell meter I have some vintage ones I would be willing to sell. I’m into all kinds of vintage stuff like cars, tools, furniture, lamps advertising signs etc. I used to have an antique store and have been collecting since the 70’s. I’m retired now and am starting to sell things I collected for myself. I’m what you would call a “tool junkie”. I can’t pass on cool looking old tools of all kinds! I have testers probably made for model T’s. More for looks than use though but cool! I’m also thinking about selling my ‘71 Riviera GS and ‘72 boat tail. They both need some work but are worth the restoration for what they sell for now. Not sure if I can do the work anymore.

 

[LARRY70GS]

If any of you guys need a timing light or dwell meter I have some vintage ones I would be willing to sell. I’m into all kinds of vintage stuff like cars, tools, furniture, lamps advertising signs etc. I used to have an antique store and have been collecting since the 70’s. I’m retired now and am starting to sell things I collected for myself. I’m what you would call a “tool junkie”. I can’t pass on cool looking old tools of all kinds! I have testers probably made for model T’s. More for looks than use though but cool! I’m also thinking about selling my ‘71 Riviera GS and ‘72 boat tail. They both need some work but are worth the restoration for what they sell for now. Not sure if I can do the work anymore.

Go over to V8buick.com. Register over there. You can post in Parts For Sale, and Cars For Sale. You'll reach a much larger Classic Buick Audience over there.

 

[Brian Atom]

Go over to V8buick.com. Register over there. You can post in Parts For Sale, and Cars For Sale. You'll reach a much larger Classic Buick Audience over there.

Thank you Larry! I’m still on the fence as to whether I want to sell my cars. The ‘72 has a lot of sentimental value and was also in a movie. Had it since the early 80’s. I have other cars I want to restore that I have had as long also so it doesn’t look like I have time for all of them. Tough decisions!

 

[Jackhammer0312]

No idea if anyone will see this since it's been a couple months (hope you all had a nice Christmas and New Year!!), BUT it was 10000% the carburetor! Got a new-to-me one off of Ebay from a guy that restores carbs and once i installed it I checked if it squirted fuel and it DID unlike my old one. After that she starts up instantly everytime and feels 467% better to drive and sounds SO much better too and a few weeks back I dropped the tank and put a new sending unit in and now I can actually see how much is in the tank and not have to pray I guesstimated right on my way home from work. In the process of sanding her down now to get it repainted as close to the original color as I can (Stratomist or Cascade Blue idk can't tell 100%). Thanks everyone for trying to help a guy out who's never had a classic before and barely as to what I'm doing. So far though I love working on this car, SO much easier to work on compared to my 91 S10 or motorcycle (they have beep-boops and ECUs and whatnot).

Now I just need to get the new inner pair of headlights working (they don't turn on when i turn the headlights on) and buy a grille and I'll be set for the exterior portion of this epic machine.

 

[MelsRegal]

No idea if anyone will see this since it's been a couple months (hope you all had a nice Christmas and New Year!!), BUT it was 10000% the carburetor! Got a new-to-me one off of Ebay from a guy that restores carbs and once i installed it I checked if it squirted fuel and it DID unlike my old one. After that she starts up instantly everytime and feels 467% better to drive and sounds SO much better too and a few weeks back I dropped the tank and put a new sending unit in and now I can actually see how much is in the tank and not have to pray I guesstimated right on my way home from work. In the process of sanding her down now to get it repainted as close to the original color as I can (Stratomist or Cascade Blue idk can't tell 100%). Thanks everyone for trying to help a guy out who's never had a classic before and barely as to what I'm doing. So far though I love working on this car, SO much easier to work on compared to my 91 S10 or motorcycle (they have beep-boops and ECUs and whatnot).

Now I just need to get the new inner pair of headlights working (they don't turn on when i turn the headlights on) and buy a grille and I'll be set for the exterior portion of this epic machine.

Inner headlights are the high beams . The switch is on the floor to the left of the brake pedal

 

[G-931730]

Inner headlights are the high beams . The switch is on the floor to the left of the brake pedal

Ah okay, since I've only had the high beam headlamps until now I've had those on the outer buckets, I'll swap them around tomorrow. Thanks! Still going to have to see why the regular non-highbeam ones don't turn on though.

 

[LARRY70GS]

In the process of sanding her down now to get it repainted as close to the original color as I can (Stratomist or Cascade Blue idk can't tell 100%).

Just get the paint code off the cowl tag, and then you will know for sure.

 

[MelsRegal]

Ah okay, since I've only had the high beam headlamps until now I've had those on the outer buckets, I'll swap them around tomorrow. Thanks! Still going to have to see why the regular non-highbeam ones don't turn on though.

The low beam headlights should have 3 prongs and be on the outside. They are dual filament, both low beam and high beam. So a total of 4 headlights should be on when high is selected. The inner high beam have 2 prongs.

 

[Jackhammer0312]

The low beam headlights should have 3 prongs and be on the outside. They are dual filament, both low beam and high beam. So a total of 4 headlights should be on when high is selected. The inner high beam have 2 prongs.

OOOOH okay, so I do have them in the right place. I can't remember if I tried to turn on high beams though. Will try that after work. Thanks!

 

[Jackhammer0312]

Just get the paint code off the cowl tag, and then you will know for sure.

Completely forgot about that! Will check that when I get home!

 

[LARRY70GS]

Completely forgot about that! Will check that when I get home!

Stratomist Blue is Code 26

Cascade Blue is Code 24

Nocturne Blue is Code 29

Twilight Turquoise is Code 39

Below is a 1971 Cowl Tag. Next to PNT is 11 A. That is Artic White with a White vinyl roof or convertible top.

https://image.ibb.co/n50bXT/Trim_Tag_My_71_GS.jpg