Something to remember with DRLs and LEDs:
- DRLs like yours are wired in series, which means that the incandescent high beams function as two different types of lighting. When in parallel (the normal setup), they send full voltage to each bulb, allowing them to act as very bright high beams. When in series (for DRLs), they split the voltage in half, allowing the bulbs to burn at reduced power and brightness.
- LEDs can run at lower voltages (e.g. 9V) because they have a boost-or-buck module, which is fancy-schmancy talk for a module that stabilizes the voltage by either boosting it or by lowering (bucking) it. In either case, there will be additional heat in that module, and heat shortens the lives of electronic components. When it attempts to boost the approximately 6-7V that the DRL is providing, they may either turn on at full brightness, or not turn on at all due to being below 9V. The boost is accomplished by drawing more amperage, which may also cause concerns for your fuse(s) and relay(s), but probably not immediately.
My opinion is that anyone driving around in the daytime with full-brightness high beams ought to have their heads examined! My eyes are more sensitive to glaring light such as the kind that comes from LEDs, especially the "super-bright 6500 Kelvin" bulbs that seem to be the rage. Even in the daytime, they bother me enough that I get headaches from them. At night it's even worse.
As a human, you will see better at night using bulbs rated around 4500K. While they may not be as stylish and trendy, they are much more useful and a lot less of an irritation to folks like me whose eyes are more easily hurt by glaring light.
