‘15 Lacrosse 75,000 miles issues

[Manny Collazo]

FML.
I’ve had issues with the car not wanting to crank let alone start these past few weeks. Once i got the car started SES light came on, OBD came up with P0049/0014 codes. Neither of which would cause battery to drain (or would it?) Tested battery at the same time and was told the three (bat/alt/strt) were good.

fast forward to yesterday, car would not start. i clean the battery post, change the connectors to make better contact and also start the daunting task to remove the alternator to get it tested by itself. Autozone tells be its bad, so i get a remanufactured one and replace it. Since everything is open i decide to replace the spark plugs.

I put it all together again and take my happy little ass to start the car… jack shit. Alls i get is a “tisk tisk” and engine wont turn over. i gave up, had a few drinks and took ambien to i wouldn’t have to think about it.

WTF!?
Any ideas, suggestions, questions? Cuz im puzzled.

Thank you in advanced.

 

[MelsRegal]

Do you have a voltmeter to test battery?

 

[Smith1000]

I always check for power at the starter and starter solenoid. The solenoid is attached to the starter. First check the large battery cable for power at the starter. Should read the same as the battery, which might be about 12.5 volts. Ground the negative/black to the engine near the starter. Then test the solenoid for power while having someone try to start it. Could be a bad starter solenoid. If it is getting power to the starter and the solenoid, it should click and send power over to the starter and spin it. Might be difficult to get to it underneath the vehicle. If you are located in an area where the outside air temp has been high, it can kill the solenoid or the starter. It was reaching 110 degrees here for a few weeks and my alternator went out last week.

 

[Manny Collazo]

Do you have a voltmeter to test battery?

battery is at 13.8V

 

[Manny Collazo]

I always check for power at the starter and starter solenoid. The solenoid is attached to the starter. First check the large battery cable for power at the starter. Should read the same as the battery, which might be about 12.5 volts. Ground the negative/black to the engine near the starter. Then test the solenoid for power while having someone try to start it. Could be a bad starter solenoid. If it is getting power to the starter and the solenoid, it should click and send power over to the starter and spin it. Might be difficult to get to it underneath the vehicle. If you are located in an area where the outside air temp has been high, it can kill the solenoid or the starter. It was reaching 110 degrees here for a few weeks and my alternator went out last week.

starter is simple to remove. took it off and took to autozone to test; came back good.

 

[MelsRegal]

battery is at 13.8V

Is that with engine off? Fully charged battery is 12.75V.

 

[cdnwide]

A battery can read the correct voltage but lack amperage. Check for cold cranking amps.

 

[Manny Collazo]

A battery can read the correct voltage but lack amperage. Check for cold cranking amps.

would it drain in two weeks? cuz it was tested then and everything came back good.

 

[MelsRegal]

would it drain in two weeks? cuz it was tested then and everything came back good.

Check for parasitic draw

 

[Manny Collazo]

I always check for power at the starter and starter solenoid. The solenoid is attached to the starter. First check the large battery cable for power at the starter. Should read the same as the battery, which might be about 12.5 volts. Ground the negative/black to the engine near the starter. Then test the solenoid for power while having someone try to start it. Could be a bad starter solenoid. If it is getting power to the starter and the solenoid, it should click and send power over to the starter and spin it. Might be difficult to get to it underneath the vehicle. If you are located in an area where the outside air temp has been high, it can kill the solenoid or the starter. It was reaching 110 degrees here for a few weeks and my alternator went out last week.

ill gove that a try, im up in chicago weather is nice

FML.
I’ve had issues with the car not wanting to crank let alone start these past few weeks. Once i got the car started SES light came on, OBD came up with P0049/0014 codes. Neither of which would cause battery to drain (or would it?) Tested battery at the same time and was told the three (bat/alt/strt) were good.

fast forward to yesterday, car would not start. i clean the battery post, change the connectors to make better contact and also start the daunting task to remove the alternator to get it tested by itself. Autozone tells be its bad, so i get a remanufactured one and replace it. Since everything is open i decide to replace the spark plugs.

I put it all together again and take my happy little ass to start the car… jack shit. Alls i get is a “tisk tisk” and engine wont turn over. i gave up, had a few drinks and took ambien to i wouldn’t have to think about it.

WTF!?
Any ideas, suggestions, questions? Cuz im puzzled.

Thank you in advanced.

 

[Manny Collazo]

SOLVED:
it was the Front Compartment Fuse Block Fuse - GM (13289598). i disconnected the cable (from the 300amp fuse) and connected it straight to battery and it cranked and started. now its time to find one.

 

[richardnewton]

How does one blow a 300A fuse?