1991 L27 engine harmonic balancer.

[SKATTERBRANE]

Does it require a wheel puller to remove it? The FSM says yes. Youtube says no. I have rebuilt Buick engines. 215, 300, 350, 401, 430, 455 some of these examples more than once. And outside of this, I have had to remove harmonic balancers on several more. I have NEVER needed a puller on any of these engines. Remove the bolt, tap the balancer once or twice and they slide right off.

All Ford and Chevy engines I have worked on require a puller almost ALL THE WAY until it falls off the end. The Ford Thunderbird 312 is the biggest PITA.

I understand the 3800 series II and III need a puller. And the pre-series I does NOT (the 1988-90 Reattas for example).

So, before I dig in, does anyone know FOR SURE, WITH EXPERIENCE (I mean no guessing please) if the 3800 Series I needs a puller or not? Thank you!

 

[SKATTERBRANE]

Why YES, it does require a puller. Thank you.

 

[HotZ28]

Why YES, it does require a puller. Thank you.

The FSM says yes. Youtube says no. Why would you not trust the FSM & get a 50%50 chance of the correct answer on YT? 😕

 

[SKATTERBRANE]

There are some on the forums who have not needed a puller either. But, I have learned that the ONLY information I can trust is my own experience. It is just not easy to get experience with every aspect of the 93 cars I have even owned via experience. This is the first balancer failure I have ever had. And the car only has 25K miles. Dry rot due to age is the culprit. And I have another Reatta with 70K miles, no balancer problems. They are both from the same part of the country as well.

It would be logical to trust a person who has DONE it even more than I would take a FSM as infallible.

 

[HotZ28]

I have to wonder how the YT posters got the '93 balancer without a puller? Can you post a link to that removal process?

 

[SKATTERBRANE]

If I recall it was a 1991. An Oldsmobile or something. I would have to find it. I have had people on the Antique forum who have said they did not need a puller either. The reason I was somewhat optimistic was because of all the Buick V8s that did not need one and a 1965 225 V6 as well. That has always been something I REALLY loved about Buick engines, among a host of other things. I have been searching on the internet for about a week now. Quite a few sources. I will see if I saved any of the Youtubes. On the OTHER hand, one guy on Facebook said it does not matter if it is a pre series I LN3 or a series I L27 they BOTH need a puller.

Anyway. I pulled it today. I was the 2nd most stubborn one ever. The worst was a 1957 T-Bird 312. It was so happy where it was it actually started to pull the threads out of the puller's main bolt, the one that actually screws against the crank. I thought I would have to buy a new puller to finish the job. I have had this one for 25 years, unscathed until today.

If I were to give the benefit of the doubt (why would people lie about such a thing?) I would say some do and some don't. Maybe different plants had different machining specs?

 

[HotZ28]

Glad to here you finally found the solution & with using an old puller! You will have to reverse the procedure to get the new one on. I can assure you that different plants did not have different machining specs!

 

[SKATTERBRANE]

In all my other cars, even Ford and Chevy that require a puller, all I had to do is snug up the balancer on the crankshaft and use an impact wrench to tighten it down. The FSM does not mention a tool is needed to install the balancer. Torque to 105 ft lbs + 56 degrees.

 

[SKATTERBRANE]

From a poster in AACA Reatta section:
"I changed the timing chain on my '90 Bonneville with the 3800 (Series I) and it did not require a puller. I removed the bolt and it was a snug 'slip fit' on the shaft."

I do not think it was a series I though. Probably a LN3.

 

[HotZ28]

Words of wisdom, do not be deceived by the false prophets!