1992 RMW low beam headlights won't turn on

[Arcticcougar10]

like the title says, only got high beams currently. My high beam switch has been acting up, used to take like 4 or 5 normal strength presses to get it to do anything, and sometimes its stuck in this weird state where the light on the dash is dimmer than usual, but not off. also, the little cover on the back of the turn signal stalk popped off for some reason. since that started happening, I've only had high beam headlights, turning the high beams off turns off the headlights completely. every other light still works though, (flashers, dash lights, turn signals, etc). I unhooked the connector into the turn signal switch towards the bottom of the steering column and it wasn't melted or anything, and other than some corrosion the terminals looked OK. I tried replacing the headlight switch and putting in the old headlight bulbs, but to no avail. Is there any relays or other switches to the headlights that could cause this?? I'm probably going to have to replace the high beam switch either way, but I'd like to try all my options before tearing into my steering column. anything helps, thanks.

 

[Arcticcougar10]

like the title says, only got high beams currently. My high beam switch has been acting up, used to take like 4 or 5 normal strength presses to get it to do anything, and sometimes its stuck in this weird state where the light on the dash is dimmer than usual, but not off. also, the little cover on the back of the turn signal stalk popped off for some reason. since that started happening, I've only had high beam headlights, turning the high beams off turns off the headlights completely. every other light still works though, (flashers, dash lights, turn signals, etc). I unhooked the connector into the turn signal switch towards the bottom of the steering column and it wasn't melted or anything, and other than some corrosion the terminals looked OK. I tried replacing the headlight switch and putting in the old headlight bulbs, but to no avail. Is there any relays or other switches to the headlights that could cause this?? I'm probably going to have to replace the high beam switch either way, but I'd like to try all my options before tearing into my steering column. anything helps, thanks.

also forgot to mention, a couple of times now while driving at night the headlights would just shut off completely. I'd have to pull over until the headlights just decided to turn themselves back on. obviously haven't driven it past dark since, lol.

 

[Rich B.]

So without mechanical function, many times affects electrical flow. Guessing a relay of sort must be involved with switching done from steering column, ruling out switch right now that actually turns that circuit on and off.

‘92 anything will have a lot of usage with headlights. I’d start looking in steering column, vacuuming out any dirt/dust balls collected over +30 years. Next spray into opening say WD40 (fish oil) liberally while exercising switch lever. CRC5-56 will turn gummy with time, don’t use.

How stupid is that idea? For starters have used this format for probably thousands of circuit boards and reestablishing connections.
Strictly mechanical aspects to insure electrical conductivity. Yes, exact same thing happened with me once, losing low beams… driving home with flashers, quick fix and off back to work @ 4AM.

What the hell do I know? Not much, entire DoD career maintaining life safety and fire protection systems. Yes, no time for fancy repair frills or OOS delays. Government airport no less, had a BlackBird spy plane visit by once, real eye opener. Too, master electrician 24 YO, those days are another life lmao….

 

[DrivenDaily]

WD -40 being fish oil is an internet myth, aka urban legend. The "WD" in the name stands for "water displacement", which is its main function. It is not a good lubricant for any length of time.

@Arcticcougar10
If you feel uncomfortable doing the work yourself, you might consider having it done by a shop. Yes, it'll cost $$$, but you'll have a warranty for parts and workmanship if it should fail again.

I do my own electrical mods and fixes. I make things work, either like stock, different than stock, or in a way that suits me personally.

I prefer to use relays mounted under the hood where they are closer to the source of the power that energizes the lights (or other system). That way, the switches that turn them on do not carry the heavy current; they just energize a little low-amperage relay coil and the relay's contacts do the heavy lifting. That also helps keep the lights as bright as possible because the power wires are shorter and there is less of a voltage loss.

In my 4WD SUV, I removed the belt-driven fan and installed 2 electric fans. As you might guess, each one has its own relay and fuse, and all of that is under the hood.

I also have accessory lights wired the same way: small switch inside. relay and fuse outside; heavy wire from battery to relay, and from relay to lights.

 

[Rich B.]

https://files.wd40.com/pdf/sds/mup/wd-40-multi-use-product-bulk-low-voc-us-ghs.pdf Do see mineral oil- no cod liver oil. Stuff is volatile, poisonous and ?? Still use it though, the CRC5-56 would dry out get gummy and actually stick things together, stopped using even for light lube. What I really liked for flooded out electrical was “Dry Guard”. Would not leave any residual oil and seem to dissipate/dissolve the droplets (maybe similar to dry gas). Last I used was put out by Rotanium #91480, don’t see anyplace and maybe banned these days?

And no, did not oil circuit boards before installation. Gamewell panels were really notorious with retaining tabs and pins and sockets plug in. One time ripped out entire mother board trying to remove zoning cards (OH S - - -). On the side residential wiring became a PIA, just went back and finished military career after 10 year hiatus. Double paychecks great there, completely done with it all now.

 

[Arcticcougar10]

If you feel uncomfortable doing the work yourself, you might consider having it done by a shop. Yes, it'll cost $$$, but you'll have a warranty for parts and workmanship if it should fail again.

yeah, that's what I've decided to do. I'm not the most knowledgable with electronics and for being my "daily driver" I've only started it once so far this year. I've got an 89' corolla that's waiting on a manual swap and I can't start it until i have something else I can drive so I don't have the patience to wait (also driving a carbed 4 banger in the winter is a PITA). I'll post what the shop says when it's done. hopefully this thread will help out some other poor soul trying to fix 90's GM wiring, lol. thanks anyways. 🙂👍