1993 Riviera overheating

mpowered

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When I purchased my 1993 Riviera a couple months ago, the AC wasn't working. Took it in to get recharged, but since then I've noticed the temp gauge creeping up almost to the red in stop and go traffic. Coolant level is good, I think the radiator was replaced recently and the fans are coming on. What could be the issue?
 
I have a 92 and it does the same thing on 90+ days. Has never hit the red but it gets to the third to last segment before red. I need to check between the condenser and radiator for debris but also I think the fan setup on these is poor. Mine originally had just the fan and no shroud, and the fan was something like an inch from the radiator. I also think the pusher fan in front is about worthless for cooling. I installed a fan shroud from an 86 Riv from the yard and used washers as shims to move the pusher much closer to the condenser. Also installed a 180 thermostat. It helps but only slows the overheating. They should have had a dual puller fan setup with appropriate shrouds. It's a huge radiator and that puller only covers half and I'll guarantee that the pusher's air flow is virtually nothing after going through the condenser.
 
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I have a 92 and it does the same thing on 90+ days. Has never hit the red but it gets to the third to last segment before red. I need to check between the condenser and radiator for debris but also I think the fan setup on these is poor. Mine originally had just the fan and no shroud, and the fan was something like an inch from the radiator. I also think the pusher fan in front is about worthless for cooling. I installed a fan shroud from an 86 Riv from the yard and used washers as shims to move the pusher much closer to the condenser. Also installed a 180 thermostat. It helps but only slows the overheating. They should have had a dual puller fan setup with appropriate shrouds. It's a huge radiator and that puller only covers half and I'll guarantee that the pusher's air flow is virtually nothing after going through the condenser.
Just an update, I removed the puller fan and used the hose and sprayer to clean out the radiator. I think it helped some. I also added water wetter. Between the two I think it's improved but it will still run warm especially on 100+ days at highway speeds.
 
Based on several sites that seem to be plausible resources, they suggest the following:

WHAT TEMPERATURE SHOULD THE AC BLOW?


As a rule of thumb, when the ambient air temperatures 70° degrees Fahrenheit (21° Celsius) and humidity 20%, the AC outlet air temperature should be in the 35°-40° degrees Fahrenheit range. On the other extreme of 80° degrees Fahrenheit ambient air temperature and 90% humidity condition, the AC outlet air temperature might be in the 45° to 50° degrees Fahrenheit range.



That is a temperature differential of 30°-35° degrees Fahrenheit. Because of all these variations, it is difficult to pinpoint what the AC outlet air temperature should be on all applications.

That info and more was found here:

https://www.acdiagnosis.com/post/proper-auto-a-c-vent-temperature-what-temperature-should-the-a-c-blow

Based on that, when it's 100°F outside, you should get 65-70°F air from the vents, especially while driving at freeway speeds.

I hope it helps!
 
A chime-in on an old thread. When I did the radiator cleaning mentioned above, that was in preparation for a cross-country trip from NC to Tucson in mid Aug - mid Sept and several trips between Tucson and Phoenix, and then returning to NC, with the car fully loaded plus myself and three dogs. It was blistering hot, at times 115-118 degrees according to the temp display in the car. At speed it would usually run one or two dots above the halfway mark, sometimes getting up to about 3/4 of the way. If sitting at idle for quite a while, it could get all the way to the last segment before red, so a little nerve-wracking. Not sure how this compares to modern cars where the temp gauge basically does not fluctuate, whereas ours gives you honest readings. Would be interesting to watch scan data on a modern car to see how hot they actually get.

As far as AC performance, with a properly charged and functioning system and running R134A, you should be seeing temps in the low 40s to upper 30s on med-low or low, and the car moving, and the AC has been running a while and cooled down the cabin. This does depend on humidity too. On this odyssey I took through the desert, I experienced what a difference no humidity in AZ makes vs super-humid NC. Even at 110+ the AC would blow ice cold. I did not have a temp gauge but the ease of the AC cooling the car was substantial. Made me understand how much cooling power to it takes to overcome humidity.
 
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