1997–2005 Buick Century Owners: Common Repairs, Maintenance Logs & Mileage Reports

[ede smith]

Calling All 1997–2005 Buick Century Owners!
I thought it would be interesting to hear what other folks have repaired, replaced, or still need to fix on their Century.

Please comment below with:

• Your model year
• Current mileage
• A list of repairs you've done or plan to do

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I'll go first. Here's my update:​

2001 Century – 160,000 miles
Location: Midwest / Rust Belt

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🔧 Brakes​

• Rotors: Replaced at least twice — due again due to condition, even though not below discard thickness.
• Pads: Replaced 3 times, last time was pad slap.
• Rear Drums:
  • Replaced leaking wheel cylinders
  • Believe I also did shoes and hardware at around 50K
• Brake Line:Replaced one section (passenger side to ABS module).
  • Planning to install this copper-nickel tubing kit before winter:
    3/16
• E-brake cable: Snapped. Not sure I’ll replace it.
• Brake Fluid: flushed when doing rear cylinders and front brake line.

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🚗 Steering/Suspension​

• Wheel Bearings (front): Both replaced
• Outer Tie Rods: Replaced
• Sway Bar Links & Bushings:Replaced
  • Pinch weld failed — welded back instead of dropping the subframe and entirely replacing sway bar
• Alignment: One done so far

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🌡️ Cooling System​

• Radiator:Replaced
  • Also replaced coolant temp sensor (tough to reach behind the radiator)
  • Still chasing low coolant warning
• Water Pump: Replaced 3 times
  • Last time probably unnecessary — leak was front timing cover gasket
• Gaskets:
  • Intake upper and lower manifold gasket(common on 3.1 engines)
    • Tech replaced thermostat and flushed coolant at the same time. One job I sourced out.
    • two of the injectors he had problems removing, brittle plastic, and they were replaced.
    • valve covers
  • Front timing cover gasketwas leaking
    • I replaced last fall

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❄️ AC​

• Still running on original charge
• Noticed metal shavings near the compressor clutch last fall

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🛞 Power Steering​

• Was groaning on turns
  • Cleaned vent cap
  • Replaced some fluid after siphoning old stuff out

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⚙️ Engine Sensors​

• EVAP purge valve: Replaced (emissions code)
• IAC valve: Cleaned — huge improvement for idle
• Throttle body / MAF: Cleaned (MAF cleaned every air filter change)

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🔌 Electrical/Ignition​

• Plugs and wires once
• Alternator: Replaced twice
• Serpentine Belt: Replaced 2–3 times
• Starter: Replaced (AutoZone brand, occasionally sounds off)
• Instrument Cluster: Re-soldered as mileage indicator was no longer lit.
• Driver side window motor
• Right rear window regulator
• Trunk Harness: Wires were pinched — spliced and soldered

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⛽ Fuel System/Exhaust​

• Fuel Pump:Bosch replacement
  • Left rear seat out since repair — don’t miss it
  • Crimped the harness (may upgrade to Klein ratcheting crimper)
  • Learned crimping is better than soldering for vehicle wiring
• Fuel Filter: Replaced at least once — caused leak from rusty fittings
• Fuel Line:Replaced a small section by the filter
  • Hard to bend due to tight radius
  • Shop said they smelled fuel — I haven’t noticed anything since
• Exhaust pipe
  • Welded hanger back on near Cat

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🔧 Still needs work​

• Lower Control Arms:
  • Bushings are bad, and ball joints are original
  • Planning to replace entire control arms
  • Not impressed with RockAuto options — leaning toward Mevotech Supreme as Moog RK models are not supposed to be very good.
• Struts/Springs:
  • Still original
  • Aftermarket quick-struts don’t seem great — haven’t pulled the trigger yet
• Tires:
  • Junkyard Pirellis — still have like new tread but are 10 years old
  • Need to be replaced but difficult to find decent 205/70/15
• Calipers/Hoses:
  • Still original — thinking about replacing.
• Transmission Service:
  • Fluid has never been changed
  • Planning a drain-and-fill(no flush)
    • Replacing filter, gasket
    • Capacity: ~7.4 quarts (no converter)
    • Will do 1–2 more fluid changes later to cycle in fresh fluid
• Cooling System:
  • Hose Clamps: Replacing worm-drive clamps with constant-tension types. This could be the source from what I am smelling.
• Electrical:
  • Door lock actuator is sticking on front passenger door. I haven't heard great things about aftermarket ones.
• Body Control Module Issue:
  • Strange intermittent dashboard lights
  • Removed piezo siren from BCM, haven't resolved issue though
  • More details here
• Fuel Line:
  • Would like to replace more (or all), but unsure where to start
• Piston Slap:
  • Happens in cold weather — disappears once warm

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That’s where I’m at for now. I’m sure I’m forgetting a few things, but my goal is to get past 200k miles and beyond.

Now it’s your turn — post your Century’s:

• Year
• Current mileage
• Repairs done / planned

👇 Let’s keep these old W-Bodies going!

 

[ede smith]

I have to replace my Fuel Pressure Regulator next as I have fuel in the vacuum line and hard starting.

I asked AI common problems for the 2001Century and this was the reply (it looks like it highlighted my problems with the lower control arm/ frame/ wear):

Here is a complete, mechanic-level list of the most common problems on a 2001 Buick Century (3.1L 3100 V6 / W-body).
This includes engine, cooling, transmission, suspension, electrical, HVAC, steering, body, fuel, and brake issues.

This is based on known long-term patterns of the 3100 engine and the W-body platform, not recent news, so no web search is needed.

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🚗​

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🔥​

1. Upper & Lower Intake Manifold Gasket Failure (coolant leaks)​

• Most common problem on the 3100 V6.
• Causes coolant loss, overheating, chocolate-milk oil, misfires, or hydrolock.
• Often leaks internally first.

2. Coolant Elbow Leaks​

• Plastic elbows between tensioner and intake crack.
• Sudden coolant loss.

3. Piston Slap (cold start knock)​

• Light knocking for 10–60 seconds when cold.
• Usually harmless and normal for this engine.

4. Idle Air Control (IAC) valve sticking​

• Causes rough idle, stalling at stops, erratic idle, or hard start.

5. Mass Airflow Sensor (MAF) failure​

• Causes hesitation, poor acceleration, rich mixture, poor fuel economy.

6. Fuel Pressure Regulator (FPR) leaking into vacuum line​

• Floods engine → hard starting until pedal is pressed.
• Very common on these cars.

7. Cracked vacuum lines​

• Causes lean codes (P0171), high idle, poor drivability.

8. EGR valve issues​

• EGR passages carbon up → rough idle, stalling after decel.

9. Crankshaft Position Sensor​

• Causes intermittent no-start or stalls at random.

10. Oil leaks​

Common leak points:

• intake manifold
• valve covers
• rear main (less common)

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🌡️​

11. Radiator leaks at plastic end tanks​

12. Heater core clogging​

• Weak heat or fluctuating heater output.

13. Water pump failure​

• Belt squeal + coolant drip under pulley.

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⚙️​

14. Pressure control solenoid (PCS) failure​

• Harsh 1–2 / 2–3 shifts
• “Bang” into gear
• No codes sometimes

15. TCC (torque converter clutch) solenoid failure​

• Shudder at 45–55 mph
• Stalls at stop after driving highway speed
• P0741 often appears

16. Shift actuator issues / worn valve body​

• Delayed shifting or slipping.

17. Transmission pan leaks​

• Common with age and softening gasket.

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🛞​

18. Lower control arm bushings (very common failure)​

• Causes clunking, wandering, uneven braking feel.
• Worn bushings can elongate subframe mounting holes over time.

19. Ball joint wear​

• Clunks over bumps, sloppy steering.

20. Outer tie rod ends​

• Play + alignment drift.

21. Sway bar links & bushings​

• Rattling over bumps.

22. Struts worn​

• Nose dive, poor ride quality, floaty handling.

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🧭​

23. Power steering pressure hose leaks​

• One of the most common leaks on this car.

24. Intermediate steering shaft “clunk”​

• Felt in steering wheel when turning.

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⚡​

25. Blower motor resistor failure​

• Only high speed works (very common GM issue).

26. Window regulator failures​

• Power windows fall or get stuck.

27. Ignition switch electrical portion​

• Car can fail to start or accessories cut out.

28. Instrument cluster issues​

• Intermittent gauges, dimming backlights.

29. BCM (Body Control Module) glitches​

• Weird behaviors: door locks clicking, lights acting odd.

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❄️​

30. Blend door actuator failure​

• Stuck on hot or cold, clicking from dash.

31. A/C compressor clutch failure​

• No engagement or intermittent cooling.

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🛑​

32. ABS wheel speed sensors failing​

• Causes intermittent ABS light; usually front.
• “Service Traction” or “ABS Disabled” message.

33. Brake lines rusting​

• Common on older W-body cars in rust-belt climates.

34. Front caliper slide pins sticking​

• Uneven brake pad wear.

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⛽​

35. Fuel pump failure (in-tank)​

• Long crank, whining from tank, sudden no-start.

36. Fuel lines rust​

• Especially near rear wheel well region.

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🏚️​

37. Rear door latch / handle failures​

38. Weatherstripping shrinkage​

• Wind noise at highway speeds.

39. Rust at rear wheel arches (common in northern states)​

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🔋​

40. Alternator failure​

• Not as common as some other GM models, but still a known issue.

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