2000 LeSabre front end vibration

FJM

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Frederick, MD
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2000 Lesabre Custom
After an oil change and rotation (no balance) I noticed a vibration coming from my front end that was not there before. I was not sure which side and it only showes itself at 68ish plus mph. I thought it was probably a balance issue. Well it was not, it turnes out that front rt wheel was bent. I bought a new wheel that they replaced and balanced. They took the car for a drive on the highway and said all was good. Well...it was not. My drive to work is all Interstate and the vibration is still there. It's like the wheel was never changed.
I'm not sure what my next move should be. My gut is telling me its not a wheel/balance issue anymore. HELP PLEASE.
 
That could be a CV joint, or wheel bearing issue! Have you heard any noise from the front end prior to the vibration event? Where do you feel the vibration, in the steering wheel, or in the seats? Lot of possibilities on this problem. Were the rotors & back side of the wheel wire brushed and installed to & torqued the proper sequence? Lot of unknowns here!
 
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Also, rotate tires back to the their original positions and see if there's an improvement. Separately, even when tires are non-directional I do not switch sides to maintain the same tire rotation.
 
How does the vibration correlate with you stepping on the gas. If theres more when you're stepping harder on the gas, could be a issue with a CV joint, the root cause of which can be a bad transmission mount ( the one under the radiator and very visible when you pop the hood). I'm planning on replacing mine and a drivers side axle soon to correct a similar problem I have, vibrations between 50-60mph when I step on the gas.
 
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Funny you should mention transmission/engine mount. The service rep told me (at my oil change ) that the trans/engine mount had some movement and recommend changing it. I was able to do it myself (saved $450).
Anyway, i've been doing a little research and I'm going to check the front wheel bearings this weekend.
Thanks for the suggestion.
 
It sounds like a wheel hub.
 
Thanks everyone for the suggestions.....well.....my vibration is still with me 👎.
I had one of my front wheel replaced, after a 4 wheel balance showed the front rt wheel had a bad bend. I really thought and hoped that was gonna be the simple fix. Wrong!
I then changed my front transmission / engine mount that was in really bad shape..no help again!
Then today I changed both front wheel hub assy's, rotors and brake pads. I was so excited to take on a test run, I thought for sure that was the fix. Then I got up to 60/70ish and the beast (vibration) showed herself again!
I'm really at a loss and not sure what direction to try next! I am determined to find the culprit, I just need some help.
 
Funny you should mention transmission/engine mount. The service rep told me (at my oil change ) that the trans/engine mount had some movement and recommend changing it. I was able to do it myself (saved $450).
Anyway, i've been doing a little research and I'm going to check the front wheel bearings this weekend.
Thanks for the suggestion.
If it was a wheel bearing, you would be able to hear it at all speeds. I had that issue.
 
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Thanks everyone for the suggestions.....well.....my vibration is still with me 👎.
I had one of my front wheel replaced, after a 4 wheel balance showed the front rt wheel had a bad bend. I really thought and hoped that was gonna be the simple fix. Wrong!
I then changed my front transmission / engine mount that was in really bad shape..no help again!
Then today I changed both front wheel hub assy's, rotors and brake pads. I was so excited to take on a test run, I thought for sure that was the fix. Then I got up to 60/70ish and the beast (vibration) showed herself again!
I'm really at a loss and not sure what direction to try next! I am determined to find the culprit, I just need some help.
I had very similar issue and it turned out to be my transmission acting up. I put a tube of lubegard instant shudder fix in and problem solved.
 
Accurate tire balance is critical and the most common cause for vibration. I would bring it back for a recheck or take it to another shop with calibrated equipment and experienced technicians.
 
I had very similar issue and it turned out to be my transmission acting up. I put a tube of lubegard instant shudder fix in and problem solved.
What's Lubegard? Do you need to change transmission fluid after using?
 
What's Lubegard? Do you need to change transmission fluid after using?
Lubegard is a synthetic additive that very effectively keeps the trans. temps cooler and revitalize fluid and protects all parts of transmission. Google it and you'll find tons of info. Part#60902
 
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After an oil change and rotation (no balance) I noticed a vibration coming from my front end that was not there before. I was not sure which side and it only showes itself at 68ish plus mph. I thought it was probably a balance issue. Well it was not, it turnes out that front rt wheel was bent. I bought a new wheel that they replaced and balanced. They took the car for a drive on the highway and said all was good. Well...it was not. My drive to work is all Interstate and the vibration is still there. It's like the wheel was never changed.
I'm not sure what my next move should be. My gut is telling me its not a wheel/balance issue anymore. HELP PLEASE.
It may seem like it's the front. I had the same experience...turned out to be rear rotors were warped and the high speed 65+ made it seem like the front...changed the rotors and pads front and back, I figured I'd change both sides together and shaking went away
 
It could a balance problem from a slightly warped front rotor that kicks the pads a little at higher speeds.
By using the emergency brake lightly while holding the release lever, you might be able to feel if it intensifies
with the rear brake. Or a light touch on the brake pedal might change the feel and tell you it's the front.

BUT the previous poster mentioned something very important: the vibrations can travel through the chassis on
these cars. I'd take a good look at the rear suspension links. I believe some have had one rust into two parts. Or
take a look at the bushings for wear.

Another wear item could be the bushings on the A-arms on the front. A good alignment guy could tell you if
they were a problem and need replacing or the whole A-arm needs replacing.

If you chase the balance problem, you need to find a Road Force balancer by Hunter brand. And a guy that
knows what he's doing using it--didn't just read the operator manual when he started the day before. LOL

I also agree with the other poster who said put the wheels back where they were before the rotation. I have two
hydraulic jacks just so I can jack up the front and back together and rotate tires--then cross fronts if needed to get
them where I want them.
 
What's Lubegard? Do you need to change transmission fluid after using?
What brand of tires do you have on it and what shape are they in? How old are they?
 
What brand of tires do you have on it and what shape are they in? How old are they?
My fix was I was low on trans. fluid but I also went back to the original size tires of, 2256016. I KNOW It was the trans because when I went back to the original size tires, it didn't help. I upgrade of the 2356016s shouldn't have made a difference. So, I was just under a QUART low. These 4t65e's are supper fussy so remember to check fluids. After the last time I did a trans service, of course I checked the level after running a bit.... It's so hard to see an accurate level when the fluid is new. Hope this helps.
 
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What brand of tires do you have on it and what shape are they in? How old are they?
I have brand new toyo extenza tires, on now 2256016.
 
A tire with damage to the construction(you had a bent rim.. didnt notice it before... perhaps it maintained a balance in that exact index on the original position on the car with the proper runout, balance, etc,,, but yeah a tire with damage to the construction is almost always unbalanceable or at least it wont have consistent behavior on the road compared to the machine
of course, check run out. check strut bearings/mounts, check alignment because if you bent a rim you hit something hard. that can jostle your suspension out of wack.
check engine/trans mounts, a torque axis mount will especially let vibration go in through wheel. Check your struts work consistentlybetween sides because they could be worn but if one is shot and one is new, that could cause vibrations from the unbalanced and new-forces imposed on the car and partscheck to make sure tie rods are tightened and have proper amount of play, check those ball joints, wheel bearings
check subframe mount(front and back!),wand ultimately, check your trim height. car should not be sagging anuwhere.

lastly, i almost forgot, check your splash shields and mud guards!! They are NVA as well as underbody protection and cooling
 
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