2004 Buick Park Avenue Ultra Alternator Amp rating

[BuickGirlFromMars]

I upgraded my worn out 125A alternator to a 150A Nippondenso:

More Information for ACDELCO 3342858

It is a direct fit, same mounting as the 125 original alternator.
The main connection of the alternator was the same as the old one.
The connector for the control is in a slightly different place, but the cable is just long enough.

I have laid additional 35mm2 (AWG 2 ?) cables for plus 12V to the fuse box, and case of the alternator to ground to take care of the higher possible current.
This works really well. The alternator is delivering 90-100A even at 1000rpm idle. Voltage is even under heavy load between 14.5V - 14.8V at the batterie, measured with a Fluke DMM. The voltmeter in the instrument panel shows 13.9V when the alternator has 14.8V.

the instrument panel reading is most likely due to corrosion at some connections, I believe the voltage on the DIC is read at the PCM but its possible it was read at the interior fusebox.. i can check if youd like. that just tells me the reading has some corrosion or voltage drops. Its not hurting anything. if you have a scantool, id be curious to know what your PCM voltage is on the various ignition circuits, because they are different, since those are channeled through the BCM and then the PCM voltage which itself is diffferent etc etc.

But good work, thanks for the information. The Nippondenso unit I hope is high quality like AD series alternators, GM at least put them on so presumably there was enough quality they would stand behind them for new cars sold.

They are japanese, which is not a dig at all. I think that same company makes the one that goes in my hyundai but i could be wrong, but its a smaller unit. Also the pulley failed not the alternator(i still have the og one)

Where did you ground the case of the alternator too?

and if you want to see if there is something affecting the voltage reading upstream or near the alternator, you can utilize the sense wire and run it to the power feed for the under dash fuse box or maybe to the positive lead into the backseat box. that would overcome any drops between all the connections and maintain proper voltage at the place you used the sense wire at.

also, load management features are always possible to interact with your readings. a tech 2 can turn that off but i would appreciate if you drive some more and report any noticed things or quirks and maybe take a reading here and there in the future under different conditions/loads for good measure 🙂

its okay, I wouldnt want to do homework either lol!

Thank you for your findings

I upgraded my worn out 125A alternator to a 150A Nippondenso:

http://[B]https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=8077220&cc=1430628&pt=2412&jsn=11[/B]

It is a direct fit, same mounting as the 125 original alternator.
The main connection of the alternator was the same as the old one.
The connector for the control is in a slightly different place, but the cable is just long enough.

I have laid additional 35mm2 (AWG 2 ?) cables for plus 12V to the fuse box, and case of the alternator to ground to take care of the higher possible current.
This works really well. The alternator is delivering 90-100A even at 1000rpm idle. Voltage is even under heavy load between 14.5V - 14.8V at the batterie, measured with a Fluke DMM. The voltmeter in the instrument panel shows 13.9V when the alternator has 14.8V.

did you update to the 150amp because of the part number I posted earlier or was this your own research?

Either way, im glad to see
Part# 334-2858 - ACDelco

has worked out 🙂

 

[BuickGirlFromMars]

I upgraded my worn out 125A alternator to a 150A Nippondenso:

More Information for ACDELCO 3342858

It is a direct fit, same mounting as the 125 original alternator.
The main connection of the alternator was the same as the old one.
The connector for the control is in a slightly different place, but the cable is just long enough.

I have laid additional 35mm2 (AWG 2 ?) cables for plus 12V to the fuse box, and case of the alternator to ground to take care of the higher possible current.
This works really well. The alternator is delivering 90-100A even at 1000rpm idle. Voltage is even under heavy load between 14.5V - 14.8V at the batterie, measured with a Fluke DMM. The voltmeter in the instrument panel shows 13.9V when the alternator has 14.8V.

I also notice you still have the stock cables. Have you verified your main ground and power cable itself off the battery to the fuse box for voltage drop? The short one to the box may seem trivial, but dependning on how the cable is positioned in itsl ife it may have some internal breakage or corrosion just worthy a check, and then your ground cable to the engine isnt likely bad but if you wanted ot be overkill, more engine to battery ground isnt bad.
the chassis(fender) ground on the left that contorts strangely is also suspect for issues, Mine actually broke later on, I just used an old gm side post cable stripped to a lug and then cleaned up good and fastened for time being.

Also, If you rework any cables its a great time to get the lengths, directions/etc just how you like them if you happen to do so 🙂

with loads on your engine like heated seats, hvac on high, rear defog, high beams, etc, while idling, what reading does your case of the alternator get?

Also the IP ground, last thought I swear, worth a double check by your feet under the carpet for the IPC. of course that being not tight or corroded may explain the IP reading.

I swear im done throwing things at ya! Lol thanks for your hard work 🙂

 

[Lui]

the instrument panel reading is most likely due to corrosion at some connections, I believe the voltage on the DIC is read at the PCM but its possible it was read at the interior fusebox.. i can check if youd like. that just tells me the reading has some corrosion or voltage drops. Its not hurting anything. if you have a scantool, id be curious to know what your PCM voltage is on the various ignition circuits, because they are different, since those are channeled through the BCM and then the PCM voltage which itself is diffferent etc etc.

But good work, thanks for the information. The Nippondenso unit I hope is high quality like AD series alternators, GM at least put them on so presumably there was enough quality they would stand behind them for new cars sold.

They are japanese, which is not a dig at all. I think that same company makes the one that goes in my hyundai but i could be wrong, but its a smaller unit. Also the pulley failed not the alternator(i still have the og one)

Where did you ground the case of the alternator too?

and if you want to see if there is something affecting the voltage reading upstream or near the alternator, you can utilize the sense wire and run it to the power feed for the under dash fuse box or maybe to the positive lead into the backseat box. that would overcome any drops between all the connections and maintain proper voltage at the place you used the sense wire at.

also, load management features are always possible to interact with your readings. a tech 2 can turn that off but i would appreciate if you drive some more and report any noticed things or quirks and maybe take a reading here and there in the future under different conditions/loads for good measure 🙂

its okay, I wouldnt want to do homework either lol!

Thank you for your findings

did you update to the 150amp because of the part number I posted earlier or was this your own research?

Either way, im glad to see
Part# 334-2858 - ACDelco

has worked out 🙂

no, that was my own research. I did it some time ago

 

[Lui]

I also notice you still have the stock cables. Have you verified your main ground and power cable itself off the battery to the fuse box for voltage drop? The short one to the box may seem trivial, but dependning on how the cable is positioned in itsl ife it may have some internal breakage or corrosion just worthy a check, and then your ground cable to the engine isnt likely bad but if you wanted ot be overkill, more engine to battery ground isnt bad.
the chassis(fender) ground on the left that contorts strangely is also suspect for issues, Mine actually broke later on, I just used an old gm side post cable stripped to a lug and then cleaned up good and fastened for time being.
View attachment 35747
Also, If you rework any cables its a great time to get the lengths, directions/etc just how you like them if you happen to do so 🙂

with loads on your engine like heated seats, hvac on high, rear defog, high beams, etc, while idling, what reading does your case of the alternator get?

Also the IP ground, last thought I swear, worth a double check by your feet under the carpet for the IPC. of course that being not tight or corroded may explain the IP reading.

I swear im done throwing things at ya! Lol thanks for your hard work 🙂

you are keeping me busy ... 😉 I will take some photos for you 🙂

 

[BuickGirlFromMars]

you are keeping me busy ... 😉 I will take some photos for you 🙂

I always had a good feeling about you, must be something about 1999 park avenues that inspires the best of us 😛

 

[BuickGirlFromMars]

no, that was my own research. I did it some time ago

well you were correct then I will assume both of us ending with the same part number and the same idea with the also awesome fact you went through and did it means something in there had to be right.

 

[Lui]

you are keeping me busy ... 😉 I will take some photos for you 🙂

 

[BuickGirlFromMars]

your car had a 125 amp alternator before? are you sure it wasnt a 105?

 

[Lui]

well, I am not sure. But I can check it out later. It kept the old one somewhere...

your car had a 125 amp alternator before? are you sure it wasnt a 105?

Option list states KG7, so it should be 125 AMP

 

[BuickGirlFromMars]

well, I am not sure. But I can check it out later. It kept the old one somewhere...

Option list states KG7, so it should be 125 AMP

curious.

 

[Lui]

curious.

The old one is made by DELPHI. That is the only thing printed in the case. No label, no amperage, nothing else.

 

[BuickGirlFromMars]

The old one is made by DELPHI. That is the only thing printed in the case. No label, no amperage, nothing else.

Thats fine, if you have it,

this isnt a 100% of the time looks wise, but an ad230 has a smaller pulley than an ad237, the one you put on your car looks like what mine earlier did. a ad237 is larger stator, so larger overall. its not the most obvious difference but if you seen them next to eachother its pretty obvious.

An ad237

its not a big deal im just finding it curious how your mounting ears are setup. mine are inline, yours are staggered. i think its because of the NA tensioner assembly being different