2006 Lacrosse CXL Blend Door Actuator Location?

[Rich7553]

To quote Stewie Griffin, "VICTORY IS MINE!"

Backflushing the heater core worked, and it was surprisingly simple. I collected the resulting liquid in a clear, 5-gallon water bottle and found about 2 tablespoon's worth of particulate residue, which I assume to be the metallic substance that was suspended in the sealant I had used.

Guess I had a partial blockage which was allowing the heater core return hose to get hot, but inhibiting heat transfer to the air flow. I'll be getting a full system flush and fill and will again backflush the heater core to make sure I've gotten it all out.

Thanks for your assistance and happy motoring!

P.S. My wife thinks I'm a wizard! I think I'll let her keep on believing that!

 

[jft69z]

You're welcome!!! Glad it worked out for you, and hopefully the wife will "reward" you later 🙂.

Make sure you check the fluid level. Depending on the engine they want you to start it up to about 2500 rpm until the thermostat opens. Keep the reservoir filled and then do a series of of 3, from idle to 3000 rpm revs for a four second interval. Shut engine, let it cool & refill the reservoir. What exact engine is in there, the 3.8?

This is to help get air pockets out of the engine. Actually they want you to use a vacuum fill system to start out, but I don't imagine one of those is laying around your shop. If you have any questions, don't hesitate to ask.

Joe T

 

[Rich7553]

Joe,

Indeed, the car has the 3.8L engine. After the backflush, I took the car for a short drive of a couple of miles and could hear gurgling and sloshing from the heater core as it filled up. That's when I also verified I had heat again. I refilled the coolant tank upon my return and checked the level this morning. I'll do your recommended 3000 rpm repititions as a precaution.

Thanks again!

Rich

 

[jft69z]

Joe,

Indeed, the car has the 3.8L engine. After the backflush, I took the car for a short drive of a couple of miles and could hear gurgling and sloshing from the heater core as it filled up. That's when I also verified I had heat again. I refilled the coolant tank upon my return and checked the level this morning. I'll do your recommended 3000 rpm repititions as a precaution.

Thanks again!

Rich

Yes... you want to make sure the air is out per the GM procedure to help eliminate any air pockets that can cause hot spots.

A lot of the 3.8 motors had a bleeder vent on the thermostat housing, located at the top of the motor. I'm not sure about yours, but if it does you can open that too to help purge air. As always, be careful of the hot coolant. Don't over tighten the bleeder if there is one there, they are brass and will break off... Oh, if it's there, the coolant squirts out of a hole on the side of it, so be careful that it's not pointing at you. I usually wrap a shop rag around it to keep it from going everywhere.

 

[G-14159]

Thanks for the help! Pulling the HVAC fuse and resetting fixed my issue!

 

[G-28244]

Hey Rich Let me share a note or two with you while Tricia is doing some research concerning your problem. Should have told you this to start with. Taking these dashes apart is pandora's box. I'll make it quick, the modulating damper(air temp blend-door) is controlled by what is known as BCM (body control module) that has different settings in it for blending the air. I am reasonably sure that the swivel rotor is broken on the blade, thus stuck shut, caused by the BCM that is out of calibration or just worn out, thus over-torquing the blade, not shutting itself off in time, pushing it against the stop, while still running, causing the rotor shaft to break. Maybe $130-$140 for the BCM, probably $50-$60 for the blade, GM propriatory parts-dealer only. 99 9/10% sure dash has to come apart. Wouldn't begin to guess shop labor. Shot from hip $500-$700 labor, maybe. Hope I'm wrong, fingers crossed for you for better news from Tricia. Happy Motoring! RD

You sound like someone overly angered at GM about them building something you don't have the brains or tools to fix. You don't have to disassemble the dash at all to reach the main doors for the cabin. You can access them by the accelerator and through the glove box being removed.