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2011 Lacrosse CXS - complete loss of power

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lacrossewi2015

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2011 Buick Lacrosse CXS
Hello all,
Hope you can help... Twice last weekend, my 2011 Lacrosse CXS had what seemed to be a completely dead battery. The keyless entry didn't work and the remote button didn't work to unlock the doors (I had to use the key in the door lock to get in) and absolutely nothing worked in the car. I first thought it was a dead battery, but after some random series of button and pedal pushes, the darned thing started right up. I then drove it with absolutely no issues several times (parked, turned car off, came back out and everything worked perfectly). Then the exact same thing happened again. Was stranded until my husband came to get me. He got in to check things out before jumping it and, low and behold, the darned thing started right up again. I haven't driven it since, as I'm nervous about getting stranded again - especially when I have to pick up my child from daycare.

It's out of warranty, so we're trying to figure it out on our own. The battery is fine (the dealership checked it for us, including checking load). The best we can figure is that the VATS (vehicle anti-theft system) is messed up. It's like it doesn't recognize that the key should operate, and when I use the key to manually get into the car, it thinks it's being stolen so it shuts down completely. Then it realizes at some point that the key is OK, and it lets me start it up again.

I've found some online resources describing a sequence to reset the VATS, but they are all for cars with regular keyed ignition. Mine is keyless. Help!!

Thanks!
 
Have you checked or replaced the battery in the remote transmitter, or tried another one?
 
Hello all,
Hope you can help... Twice last weekend, my 2011 Lacrosse CXS had what seemed to be a completely dead battery. The keyless entry didn't work and the remote button didn't work to unlock the doors (I had to use the key in the door lock to get in) and absolutely nothing worked in the car. I first thought it was a dead battery, but after some random series of button and pedal pushes, the darned thing started right up. I then drove it with absolutely no issues several times (parked, turned car off, came back out and everything worked perfectly). Then the exact same thing happened again. Was stranded until my husband came to get me. He got in to check things out before jumping it and, low and behold, the darned thing started right up again. I haven't driven it since, as I'm nervous about getting stranded again - especially when I have to pick up my child from daycare.

It's out of warranty, so we're trying to figure it out on our own. The battery is fine (the dealership checked it for us, including checking load). The best we can figure is that the VATS (vehicle anti-theft system) is messed up. It's like it doesn't recognize that the key should operate, and when I use the key to manually get into the car, it thinks it's being stolen so it shuts down completely. Then it realizes at some point that the key is OK, and it lets me start it up again.

I've found some online resources describing a sequence to reset the VATS, but they are all for cars with regular keyed ignition. Mine is keyless. Help!!

Thanks!

I had trouble programming a remote... I have keyless everything... where the remote functions programmed fine but the immobilizer locked up so that I couldn't start it. After freaking out and running back to work to get a scan tool, by the time I got back it was working fine.

I spoke to our shop foreman and while this doesn't sound scientific, he said that sometimes the immobilizer loses itself, but after sitting for a short time seems to find itself. You'd be best to take the vehicle to a dealer you trust, pay him the hour or so for diagnostics, and let them hook the scan tool up to make sure any codes stored are non recurring.

There's nothing you can do to reset, or more properly, relearn the immobilizer. That requires a tool that communicates with the electronics through the connector under the dash by your left knee.
 
Last edited:
HOTZ28: Have not checked or replaced battery, but have tried the second one. Hard to say if it's a problem with the remote, as the problem is really intermittent... It worked fine with the second remote. But then again, it works fine with the first remote 99% of the time, too. Ugh.

- - - Updated - - -

douger: Thanks for this - by "immobilizer", do you mean whatever part of the VATS causes the car to completely shut down?
 
Do the interior lights come on when you open the doors? If they don't, then the problem is not with the remotes. Also I don't think that the security system would shut down all power completely, which is the case if absolutely nothing comes on.
If NOTHING works or lights up, then the battery is the place to start. Batteries can be intermittent, also look for bad connections around the battery and main fuse block. If some lights work, then you've got a more difficult problem.
 
Do the interior lights come on when you open the doors? If they don't, then the problem is not with the remotes. Also I don't think that the security system would shut down all power completely, which is the case if absolutely nothing comes on.
If NOTHING works or lights up, then the battery is the place to start. Batteries can be intermittent, also look for bad connections around the battery and main fuse block. If some lights work, then you've got a more difficult problem.

Nothing works or lights up. Not the odometer reading (which usually pops up as soon as a door is opened), not the interior lights, nothing. Door locks don't operate. Nothing.

The first time it happened, I had pushed every button in the darned car and had tried to start it a dozen times with no response to any of it. I had about given up and had to run my daughter back in the building to use the bathroom before my husband showed up to rescue us. Without even thinking about it, I hit the door lock button to lock up before leaving. Low and behold, that time it worked. So, just for kicks, I tried one last time to start it up. And it worked!

Similar thing the second time (later that same day) - I tried everything and eventually gave up. When my husband arrived to help, he tried it once and it fired right up. What the heck!!?? We'll look harder at the battery and various connections... I just don't want to show up at the dealership with an out of warranty car, with an intermittent problem and what amounts to an open checkbook. So I very much appreciate the direction and advice!
 
I'd have to go with dbris suggestion and start at the battery and clean up all the connections you can find. I know you said you had the battery tested but if the battery is the original then its coming up on 5 years and nearing it's end of life. It would be good preventative maintenance and peace of mind to put a new one in anyway. If you do, replace it with a highest capacity battery you can find as what comes with the car is minimal. While you're at change the batteries in each remote too.
 
Nothing works or lights up. Not the odometer reading (which usually pops up as soon as a door is opened), not the interior lights, nothing. Door locks don't operate. Nothing.

The first time it happened, I had pushed every button in the darned car and had tried to start it a dozen times with no response to any of it. I had about given up and had to run my daughter back in the building to use the bathroom before my husband showed up to rescue us. Without even thinking about it, I hit the door lock button to lock up before leaving. Low and behold, that time it worked. So, just for kicks, I tried one last time to start it up. And it worked!

Similar thing the second time (later that same day) - I tried everything and eventually gave up. When my husband arrived to help, he tried it once and it fired right up. What the heck!!?? We'll look harder at the battery and various connections... I just don't want to show up at the dealership with an out of warranty car, with an intermittent problem and what amounts to an open checkbook. So I very much appreciate the direction and advice!

That's not the immobilizer. The immobilizer will keep you from starting the car, or getting the accessory function when pushing the start button. All of the remote functions will still work, including remote start.

Technically speaking, VATS is a technology that died in the early 2000s. They went through various versions of PASSLOCK before they came to the immobilizer system.

Based on your description, you've got an intermittent issue that will likely prove difficult... and perhaps expensive... to diagnose. There aren't any service bulletins that address your concern. The best you can do is check the connections at and around the battery.
 
Hello all,
Hope you can help... Twice last weekend, my 2011 Lacrosse CXS had what seemed to be a completely dead battery. The keyless entry didn't work and the remote button didn't work to unlock the doors (I had to use the key in the door lock to get in) and absolutely nothing worked in the car. I first thought it was a dead battery, but after some random series of button and pedal pushes, the darned thing started right up. I then drove it with absolutely no issues several times (parked, turned car off, came back out and everything worked perfectly). Then the exact same thing happened again. Was stranded until my husband came to get me. He got in to check things out before jumping it and, low and behold, the darned thing started right up again. I haven't driven it since, as I'm nervous about getting stranded again - especially when I have to pick up my child from daycare.

It's out of warranty, so we're trying to figure it out on our own. The battery is fine (the dealership checked it for us, including checking load). The best we can figure is that the VATS (vehicle anti-theft system) is messed up. It's like it doesn't recognize that the key should operate, and when I use the key to manually get into the car, it thinks it's being stolen so it shuts down completely. Then it realizes at some point that the key is OK, and it lets me start it up again.

I've found some online resources describing a sequence to reset the VATS, but they are all for cars with regular keyed ignition. Mine is keyless. Help!!

Thanks!
Same issue with a 2010. Did you finally find the cause?
 
I'm have this same issue on my 2013 Lacrosse. The dealer had it for 6 weeks and said they could not find the problem. It was fine for a few months and now again. randomly the no power when trying to start the car, after a bit everything works fine again. Should I put in new battery cables?
 
Why not try this. Remove the battery from the remote(s). Take the key off the fob ring. Try to start the car with the key. If it starts and drives ok, there is a probability the remotes are the culprit. Remotes are just for locking/unlocking doors/trunk. Keys start the car.
 
I had the cables checked and cleaned. The 2013 lacrosse worked fine for about 2 months. Now again, randomly, There is no power when I try and start the car. I cannot remove the key now and after a minute or so, the lights come on and I am able to start the car. The temperature display, changes fromfahrenheit to celsius, the radio presets are on another favorite. Does anybody have any idea why this is happening. I'm worried I'm going to get stranded somewhere.
 
2011 LaCrosse, no power at all, nothing. Tried to start the car absolutely nothing and I can’t remove the key from the ignition. I opened the hood and took off the battery cover and when I moved the terminal case it connected and the power came back on. There is something going on with the positive connection. I took the short positive cable off and cleaned it and tightened it back up. Everything is working but I not confident I fixed the problem. Can the the terminal connector with the fuses go bad? I am sure replacing it wouldn’t be cheap but I am not seeing anything else at the battery that could be going bad. Suggestions?
 
For some reason every battery I use with my 2010 causes intense corrosion build up on the negative terminal.
 
When it does it, If you put the remote in that little cradle under the cup holders will it start?
 
Hello all,
Hope you can help... Twice last weekend, my 2011 Lacrosse CXS had what seemed to be a completely dead battery. The keyless entry didn't work and the remote button didn't work to unlock the doors (I had to use the key in the door lock to get in) and absolutely nothing worked in the car. I first thought it was a dead battery, but after some random series of button and pedal pushes, the darned thing started right up. I then drove it with absolutely no issues several times (parked, turned car off, came back out and everything worked perfectly). Then the exact same thing happened again. Was stranded until my husband came to get me. He got in to check things out before jumping it and, low and behold, the darned thing started right up again. I haven't driven it since, as I'm nervous about getting stranded again - especially when I have to pick up my child from daycare.

It's out of warranty, so we're trying to figure it out on our own. The battery is fine (the dealership checked it for us, including checking load). The best we can figure is that the VATS (vehicle anti-theft system) is messed up. It's like it doesn't recognize that the key should operate, and when I use the key to manually get into the car, it thinks it's being stolen so it shuts down completely. Then it realizes at some point that the key is OK, and it lets me start it up again.

I've found some online resources describing a sequence to reset the VATS, but they are all for cars with regular keyed ignition. Mine is keyless. Help!!

Thanks!
I had this same problem with my 2013 lacrosse and it turned out to be the fuse box. Dealer replaced the whole thing and I haven’t had a problem since.
 
Hello all,
Hope you can help... Twice last weekend, my 2011 Lacrosse CXS had what seemed to be a completely dead battery. The keyless entry didn't work and the remote button didn't work to unlock the doors (I had to use the key in the door lock to get in) and absolutely nothing worked in the car. I first thought it was a dead battery, but after some random series of button and pedal pushes, the darned thing started right up. I then drove it with absolutely no issues several times (parked, turned car off, came back out and everything worked perfectly). Then the exact same thing happened again. Was stranded until my husband came to get me. He got in to check things out before jumping it and, low and behold, the darned thing started right up again. I haven't driven it since, as I'm nervous about getting stranded again - especially when I have to pick up my child from daycare.

It's out of warranty, so we're trying to figure it out on our own. The battery is fine (the dealership checked it for us, including checking load). The best we can figure is that the VATS (vehicle anti-theft system) is messed up. It's like it doesn't recognize that the key should operate, and when I use the key to manually get into the car, it thinks it's being stolen so it shuts down completely. Then it realizes at some point that the key is OK, and it lets me start it up again.

I've found some online resources describing a sequence to reset the VATS, but they are all for cars with regular keyed ignition. Mine is keyless. Help!!

Thanks!
I had this same problem with my 2013 lacrosse and it turned out to be the fuse box. Dealer replaced the whole thing and I haven’t had a problem since.
 
I had the cables checked and cleaned. The 2013 lacrosse worked fine for about 2 months. Now again, randomly, There is no power when I try and start the car. I cannot remove the key now and after a minute or so, the lights come on and I am able to start the car. The temperature display, changes fromfahrenheit to celsius, the radio presets are on another favorite. Does anybody have any idea why this is happening. I'm worried I'm going to get stranded somewhere.
Hi Jaws, I'm having the exact problems now. Did you ever find the problem??
 
I had a 2011 lacrosse with the exact same issues! After repeatedly trying to find the cause and wasting ridiculous amounts of money, we finally gave up and got rid of it! Sounds like an issue Buick needs to figure out and put a recall out because it's dangerous!! Our Buick would even do it while driving down the road! They determined it had absolutely nothing to do with the power supply system (battery, wiring, etc) as the dealership went over the entire system with the fine tooth comb and determined it had nothing to do with power supply..... Their opinion was that it had something to do with the theft deterrent system but in reality they were completely clueless 😠
 
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