9 speaker wiring question

[PkAve01]

I have the 01 Park Ave Base with 9 spkr setup. I want to keep the oem but in the factory amp I want to switch the rear deck signal to the rear door and the rear door to the rear deck. Does anyone know the wire color code for the rear door speakers?

 

[bigsky]

I have the 01 Park Ave Base with 9 spkr setup. I want to keep the oem but in the factory amp I want to switch the rear deck signal to the rear door and the rear door to the rear deck. Does anyone know the wire color code for the rear door speakers?

Left Rear Door: White (-) Pin F16 at amp & Tan (+) Pin F15. This is named the "Left Rear Midrange Speaker Output" from the amp.

Right Rear Door: Red (-) Pin F13 & Tan (+) Pin F14. Right Rear Midrange Speaker Output.

This is from a 2002 Service Manual.

 

[Maylar]

Assuming it's the same as my 99 Ultra - Be aware that the rear deck 6X9's are "sub woofers" and the rear door speakers are just 3.5" full range speakers. The OEM amp has circuits to direct the appropriate frequency ranges to each set. Bad idea to switch them. You won't get any bass out of the 6X9's and the 3.5's will probably blow out.

 

[bigsky]

Assuming it's the same as my 99 Ultra - Be aware that the rear deck 6X9's are "sub woofers" and the rear door speakers are just 3.5" full range speakers. The OEM amp has circuits to direct the appropriate frequency ranges to each set. Bad idea to switch them. You won't get any bass out of the 6X9's and the 3.5's will probably blow out.

Yes the OP should be aware or hopefully knows how the system is set up from the factory.

Just to mention options; I disconnected the rear door speakers, the front door tweeters, and the center dash speaker. I then upgraded the front door woofers with 5 1/4 coaxials. I kept the door tweeters connected for a while, but prefer the sound without them. This setup keeps the soundstage up front. Also, the headunit is a Pioneer.

The rear "subwoofers" put out pretty good bass IMO, and are an upgrade from the 6 x 9's used in the 6 speaker factory setup.

 

[PkAve01]

I sincerely would like to thank you all for your help. I am new to the scene and is impressed with the PA. I picked up a pair of pioneer 6x9 with a 27hz to 37,000 hz range and with a 92db sensitivity. I also seen a small 5.25 Tang sub-woofers that I feel could fit in the rear doors to give added bass without overpowering the clarity of the system. I feel the car will sound better by having the full range signal from the rear doors pumped from into the rear deck. I have not decided on whether to combine the rear deck sub signal wired into one sub to go into the rear deck OR send the 6x9 sub signal to the rear doors where I would put the 5.25 Tang subs. I think this arrangement would bring the PA closer to a real concert sound. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Maylar]

Again, the factory amp has filters that direct specific frequencies to each speaker. Full range with hi pass (limited bass) to the front, reduced power without bass to the rear doors, and bass only to the 6X9 subs. The only way to take full control is to replace or bypass the factory amp. Fortunately all radio and speaker wires come back to the trunk and plug into the amp. The connector is the same as the one for the radio with a few more pins being used.

For my system I used a 4 channel amp and external equalizer. 2 channels to the front speakers, 2 channels bridged to a 10" sub in the trunk, and Boston 6X9's off head unit power for the rear channels. The rear door speakers are disconnected. Some day I'll do something about the front center channel.

 

[Maylar]

Yes the OP should be aware or hopefully knows how the system is set up from the factory.

Just to mention options; I disconnected the rear door speakers, the front door tweeters, and the center dash speaker. I then upgraded the front door woofers with 5 1/4 coaxials. I kept the door tweeters connected for a while, but prefer the sound without them. This setup keeps the soundstage up front. Also, the headunit is a Pioneer.

The rear "subwoofers" put out pretty good bass IMO, and are an upgrade from the 6 x 9's used in the 6 speaker factory setup.

The front door speaker mounts are very lame plastic boxes that are tuned to the OEM speakers. I tried putting some high end components in the doors and they sounded horrible. Ended up taking those boxes out and mounting speakers to the outside of the doors.

BTW what head unit did you use? I was told by Crutchfield that all Pioneer decks are too deep to fit into the PA dash.

 

[bigsky]

I was told by Crutchfield that all Pioneer decks are too deep to fit into the PA dash.

My deck sticks out a bit, but with the trim ring on... it fits fairly flush to the dash trim and looks fine IMO. The deck I have is a single DIN unit around 10 years old. Some owners have installed Double Din decks and have gotten extra depth by modifying & removing the rear bracing for more room for the cables.

I did not have a problem and routed the plug-in adapter harness under the deck. The mounting kit I used had a blank space under the deck; many kits have a "pocket" which just gets in the way. I also found an antenna adapter with a right-angle plug.

 

[ffhamm]

BTW what head unit did you use? I was told by Crutchfield that all Pioneer decks are too deep to fit into the PA dash.[/QUOTE]

See my post: Crutchfield told me that there were some pioneer double din radios that would fit in my PAU. However I wanted and NEX series. They said it would not fit. It did. I used a Metra mounting kit and cut the back pocket like you have to do for any double Din radio. I also had shave a little plastic on the front bezel underneath the trim plate to allow the faceplate to rotate to put a cd in it.

Jeff

 

[bigsky]

I wanted to follow up with some pictures. For the deck, with the blank plate removed, you can see the adapter harness & wiring along with the steering wheel buttons adapter.

I may put the OEM speaker grills back on, but will probably remove the thin piece of felt-like material on the backside of the grill.

 

[dmcelhannon]

The RetroSound head unit is made to fit the cramped hole, it looks like a 70/80's factory GMC unit, but has all the new features. It also has an option for a subwoofer plus you can tune one highs, mid, and low range. You can go further by even choosing the radio frequency for each of the ranges. I just had one installed and I love it but cannot hardly wait for the new speakers!

 

[motcher41]

Left Rear Door: White (-) Pin F16 at amp & Tan (+) Pin F15. This is named the "Left Rear Midrange Speaker Output" from the amp.

Right Rear Door: Red (-) Pin F13 & Tan (+) Pin F14. Right Rear Midrange Speaker Output.

This is from a 2002 Service Manual.

Does your manual mention the rear deck speakers +/- colors?

 

[bigsky]

Does your manual mention the rear deck speakers +/- colors?

Yes... (from the amp, 9 speaker option, same color at speakers):

Pin F12 DK BLU/WHT Left Sub +
Pin F10 LT GRN/BLK Left Sub -

Pin F11 DK GRN Right Sub +
Pin F9 LT BLU/BLK Right Sub -

 

[motcher41]

Yes... (from the amp, 9 speaker option, same color at speakers):

Pin F12 DK BLU/WHT Left Sub +
Pin F10 LT GRN/BLK Left Sub -

Pin F11 DK GRN Right Sub +
Pin F9 LT BLU/BLK Right Sub -

That's exactly what I was looking for. Super awesome thanks!!!!

 

[PkAve01]

I have the 01 Park Ave Base with 9 spkr setup. I want to keep the oem but in the factory amp I want to switch the rear deck signal to the rear door and the rear door to the rear deck. Does anyone know the wire color code for the rear door speakers?

Thank you for the wiring diagram. I would like to update on the final decision. I substituted the rear deck subs with 4way 6x9's and I hooked up a DVC 10 inch sub fitted into a truck sub enclosure, and the sound is UNBELIEVABLE! There is more than enough bass and power! You do not have to install a new amp. There is a little trick to putting a better bass into the cabin: have the speaker facing the cabin instead of the rear of the trunk as usual. You will hardly notice the sub in the trunk, save a lot of money, enhance the sound, and best of all is your trunk space is not compromised.

 

[Bluedream]

I was thinking of adding 2 6x9 full spectrum speakers(Harmony Ha-r69 )to replace the blown 6x9 originals. Im not that concerned about bass(Old school). Is there something I can do to feed full spectrum to the new 6x9s and leave all else alone.
Presently im running kenwoood kdc bt5624u through the original amp. Original 6x9s are disconnected.
Perhaps bypass is the answer? If so how do I accomplish that? Is there a harness available that I can use? Or what?
ld appreciate any help. Thanks.

 

[bigsky]

...and I hooked up a DVC 10 inch sub fitted into a truck sub enclosure, and the sound is UNBELIEVABLE! There is more than enough bass and power! You do not have to install a new amp.

So you fed the rear door signal to the rear deck with the 4-way 6x9's, and the rear deck wires are going direct to the DVC Sub?


Did you use 2 wires or all 4 rear deck wires to the DVC Sub?

 

[bigsky]

Is there something I can do to feed full spectrum to the new 6x9s and leave all else alone.

If you have the 9-speaker option, you could feed the rear door signal to the rear deck. I do not know if that signal is full spectrum or not. See above posts.

 

[Bluedream]

If you have the 9-speaker option, you could feed the rear door signal to the rear deck. I do not know if that signal is full spectrum or not. See above posts.

Thanks. Good idea.

 

[Maylar]

I was thinking of adding 2 6x9 full spectrum speakers(Harmony Ha-r69 )to replace the blown 6x9 originals. Im not that concerned about bass(Old school). Is there something I can do to feed full spectrum to the new 6x9s and leave all else alone.
Presently im running kenwoood kdc bt5624u through the original amp. Original 6x9s are disconnected.
Perhaps bypass is the answer? If so how do I accomplish that? Is there a harness available that I can use? Or what?
ld appreciate any help. Thanks.

I would expect the 3.5's in the rear doors to have hi-pass filters in the OEM amp to limit the power and bass to them. Your 6x9's wouldn't be very impressive.

An option is to feed them with the output from the head unit's rear channels. Those are used as inputs to the amp and don't have a load on them.

Wiring of the amp connector is shown below - (ignore the 'check these' comment)