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93 blowing white smoke and running rough

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Can I do the compression test with the engine as is? Putting the plugs back in of course.
You would have to get every bit of coolant out of the cylinders before doing a compression test! The plugs do not have to be reinstalled to check compression! Without removing the heads and cleaning out coolant, the compression test would be moot, plus you would also probably contaminate and destroy the compression tester with coolant.
 
Did some more work today. We got the all the way to unbolting the lower manifold, but it is stuck because the metal pipe that connects to a heater hose(?) is holding us back. Any tips to get that free? We undid the bolt and disconnected the hose but it still won't budge. Also, this sensor thing cost us about an our. What is it? It is located in the red circle.

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That sensor is your coolant temp sending unit. Not sure what you're trying to show in the circle on the second pic.

The LIM looks like it's loose and ready to come out. On my 1998 there are two hidden bolts inside the intake channels to two of the cylinders. But, I don't think you have those because it wouldn't be that loose if they were there.

I would take the themostat housing off just to get that out of the way and so the LIM doesn't catch on the edge.
 
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Check the intake gasket first. If it is obvious that it leaked coolant you probably have the culprit.
 
That sensor is your coolant temp sending unit. Not sure what you're trying to show in the circle on the second pic.

The LIM looks like it's loose and ready to come out. On my 1998 there are two hidden bolts inside the intake channels to two of the cylinders. But, I don't think you have those because it wouldn't be that loose if they were there.

I would take the themostat housing off just to get that out of the way and so the LIM doesn't catch on the edge.


Circle was showing where that water temp thing came from. What is the thing left and lower from the circle?

No dice on getting thermastat off. Rounded a nut.
 
Circle was showing where that water temp thing came from. What is the thing left and lower from the circle?

No dice on getting thermastat off. Rounded a nut.
On this particular year engine, there were two temp sensors. The one you removed is the 1-wire sensor used for the coolant gauge, or light in the instrument cluster. The one still installed on the end of the LIM is used to provide coolant temp info to the ECM/PCM. Click the link below for tools to remove stripped bolt heads.
Craftsman 10 pc. Damaged Bolt/Nut Remover Set, Low Profile Bolt-Out
 
On this particular year engine, there were two temp sensors. The one you removed is the 1-wire sensor used for the coolant gauge, or light in the instrument cluster. The one still installed on the end of the LIM is used to provide coolant temp info to the ECM/PCM. Click the link below for tools to remove stripped bolt heads.
Craftsman 10 pc. Damaged Bolt/Nut Remover Set, Low Profile Bolt-Out


Thanx AGAIN!!!

Do I have to take the therm housing off?

Any trick to getting that curvy pipe off on the other end. Took nut off but not getting loose at all.
 
Could you post a pic of the curvy pipe? That would help to see what you're talking about.

Or even a couple more pics to show the over all issue - maybe a zoom out pic and an up close pic might do the trick.
 
You don't have to remove the t-stat housing if the t-stat is working properly and the seal is not leaking. In the link below, you can see where he is talking about the removal of the metal pipe and bypass hose. He does mention that the pipe may have to be removed from the other end to get enough leverage for removal. BTW, be sure to replace the bypass hose, along with the plastic fitting with the newer metal replacement. The metal hose fitting, can be found at most national part stores in several brands, like Dorman, Help, or Motormite and comes with 5/8" hose x 1"-14 thread. All three of these aftermarket fittings use the same Part #56359 and are available for less than 5 bucks. Of course, if you prefer, most GM dealers would have a replacement metal fitting, Part #25535749 for 15-18 bucks. Keep in mind; this fitting is only for the VIN-L 3800 engine and not for the 96 up VIN-K 3800 Series II. The VIN-L engine came installed in Buick, Olds and Pontiac, in various body platforms.

For removal of the fitting, (if you don’t have a large thread extractor), you can use a flat chisel about the same size as the I.D. of the hose nipple. The cutting end of the chisel is tapered and should go up into the threaded piece about 1/2 in. You will need to bump it in with a hammer far enough, to get a grip on the fitting. Once the chisel is snug, use a crescent wrench to turn the chisel “counterclockwise” and that will loosen the fitting. (It should start coming out). If the chisel slips on the first try, tap it in a little further, then try again.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=kHttEVGiOgs#t=222
 
There is nothing in that metal fitting, other than an o-ring, which has apparently deteriorated to the point that it may be impossible to remove without damaging the pipe. If you have loosened the other end, it may be possible to twist the pipe enough to break it loose. Another idea is to apply heat, such as a propane torch, just enough to break the bond. Good Luck!
 
I'm not sure but on the demo video he shows that you can take that pipe off at the intake manifold but he has problems getting the pipe off as well so he goes to the other end of the pipe and loosens the connector there. I think you're still connected at the other end. Look down lower near the firewall and see if you can see a way to disconnect it there.

Good pics - really shows what you're working on.

Question to HotZ28 - should that pipe be replaced?

If so, I would recommend that they hit it hard with some sort of penetrant.
 
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Pop that tensioner assy. off.
 
update: With a mirror we were able to see that the pipe has a flange WELDED to it and was bolted to the block. We undid it but now the pipe and flange are trapped by a metal tube going to the rear of the power steering pump. I see no chance of getting that off.

Thought about the tensioner but wasn't sure. Might just go nuts on the pipe. We've been working on this outside in Chicago. Such a pain to be so close and be stuck. And cold!!!:sad:
 
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The tensioner can't be that bad to take off, can it? It looks like it would make your job a lot easier.
 
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This is a completely different engine from the Series II engine, the tensioner has nothing to do with the LIM metal coolant pipe removal on the Series I L27 engine.
 
Question to HotZ28 - should that pipe be replaced?

If so, I would recommend that they hit it hard with some sort of penetrant.
It all depends on the amount of corrosion, and of course if the pipe is still available, it should be replaced. Looking at pics of this engine, I would suspect the corrosion would be quite severe.
 
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