95 Riviera

[LARRY70GS]

The wire I found the problem with was black, and at the lower left corner (standing in front of the car) of the connector.

I always had problems with the wiring in that car.

Read through this entire thread,

Cam Sensor - FAQ: P0341 Camshaft Position Sensor (Cam Sensor / Timing Chain)

Cam Sensor Has anyone had a trouble code PO341 camshaft position sensor A (bank 1 CKT Range/Perf)? My light stays on because of it and I don't notice any drivab

rivperformance.editboard.com

See my posts on page #8

 

[Johnny114]

I want to thank you for your quick response. I was planning to remove the engine harness from the car ( Suuurrre, sounds easy, right? ) and go through it wire by wire, I'll be starting with your suggestion ( from your personal experience ), checking each wire to the 8 wire connector for ignition components. I really love the vehicle, but the issue of these cars having wiring problems is leaving a bad taste in my mouth. Perhaps after correcting this issue maybe consider parting with the vehicle, and retain my sanity and the pleasant memories of owning one of these Rivieras. This could be why you don't see them on the roads often ( if any ). It's looking like an early production, expensive version of the "Throw away " cars. I've been a GM guy all my life, maybe it's time to quit driving altogether, the car technology is so heavily dependent on electrical wiring, you would think that some quality, reliability, and durability would be included, those three things seem to be a thing of the past, I miss my 69 Camaro, 70 Olds 442 convertible, 72 Monte Carlo, you know, the muscle car era. Maybe I'm too old for this stuff. Thanks again, I'll post my findings, only after I get it running, who knows when.

 

[LARRY70GS]

It's a fantastic car. The only reason I sold mine was because of corrosion issues underneath. Mine was a 98. 98 and 99 were the best years. 1995 was the first year. They are immensely complicated cars, the electronics alone can be confounding. I would have kept mine forever if not for the rot.

You need the Factory Service Manual. It is not optional IMO. You also need to join over at rivperformance. The entire site is dedicated to the 95-99 Riviera.

 

[Johnny114]

I relocated to South Carolina 4 years ago, I used to live in Ct., so I know all about corrosion on vehicles. This 95 I purchased was sold here in S.C. in 1995 to a guy who bought it for his wife. She drove it for 2 years then turned ill, passed away, and the car sat in the garage for 20 years or so. The guy I bought it from ran the bajesus out of it, had the motor rebuilt, and ran the stink out of it, again. I purchased it knowing it had mechanical issues ( who ever did the engine work "left something to be desired"... bolts missing, cross-threaded fasteners ), but the car was really clean, inside and out, and underneath, no corrosion. The cars down here get the paint burnt off, dashboards baked/cracked, weather stripping fried up, yet this one is very clean, that's why I bought it, figuring I can do any wrenching required myself.
I bought the Factory Service Manuals ( 2 ) before I registered the car, I've always purchased GM Manuals with any vehicle I have owned, just a habit, I guess.
I'm not a quitter, I refuse to give up on the car, I believe once it's straightened out, I truly enjoy it, more than likely keep it in my fleet. Thank you again for your help/input locating the problem. I'm signing in to Rivperformance next, there is more than likely someone there who is a Riv guru, I'm sure.
Nice 70 GS by the way, I checked out your videos, cool.

 

[LARRY70GS]

That's great, I am glad you are sticking with the car. Like I said, they are awesome cars. I wish I could have kept mine. It had 212K on it when I sold it. It ran mint and the transmission was original and perfect.

Yeah, the 70 is a lot of fun.

 

[Johnny114]

Okay, it's been awhile, and I finally completed my engine wiring harness inspection, during which I found the black wire at the lower left (facing the front of the vehicle ) of the firewall junction block questionable. I shaped the wire into a 180 degree bend, moved the wire up and down ( like the action of the toy " Slinky " ) and upon doing so I immediately noticed a kink/sharp corner formed in it, then I replaced it with the seal, proper connector, and a piece of 18 gage wire with approximately 20 very flexible strands of conductors, the OEM wire has only 6 or 7 strands that are thicker, but not very flexible.
After completing that repair, I continued to inspect each wire to the 8 wire connector from the firewall bulkhead that feeds/reads the ignition control module. I did the same " 180 " test and found 3 more wires with the same kink condition, so I decided to just stop trying to repair each wire and just redo/fabricate a completely new harness for the ICM, cam and crank sensor circuits with the more flexible 18 gage. It's tedious work, but I have a good feeling this should correct the problem, at least eliminate it from the possible cause. Like you said, look for wiring issues, see what the test results for voltage signals are.
I've included some pictures of my findings, and will keep you posted. Thanks again for all of your suggestions