Another new member with a 2000 Century

[Waiex191]

We had somehow forgotten to plug in the intake temperature sensor. Plugged back in now and no check engine light. The outside air temperature is still off. Was reading 66 and it was 79.

 

[Waiex191]

So our Century has intermittent dash lights. Sometimes I can read the mileage or see the shift indicator. Zeroboostbuick mentioned the ignition switch before. Rock Auto has 3 different AC Delco switches, ranging from $55 to $105. Anybody know the difference?
2000 BUICK CENTURY 3.1L V6 Ignition Starter Switch | RockAuto

How hard is this job?

Edit: I gave HotZ28 credit for Zeroboostbuick's info on the ignition switch. Fixed.

 

[CorvairGeek]

GM managed to design in a bunch of problems into their clusters as they redesigned models. There is a known issue with resistors and solder joints in the W-bodies, IIRC.
The full gauge Regal cluster plugs into the Century too.

 

[Waiex191]

I put my new, never used Harbor Freight AC gauges on the Buick. No sign of any pressure. So I pulled a vacuum on it an hour ago, and I'll see what it is doing when I get back over. I had one can of refrigerant with dye. I went to Walmart to buy a couple more.


I am not putting any sealer in. I only hear bad things about sealer. With the dye I'll be able to pinpoint the leak and fix it properly.

 

[CorvairGeek]

You will very likely see severe corrosion around the body of the V5 compressor, which spreads under the body o-rings and causes leaks (the body of the compressor will probably be very greasy as a result). This wasn't such a problem back when the compressors were painted. Yours is new enough to have the double lip seal on the shaft, so that leaking is less likely.

 

[Waiex191]

I could not get the system to pull in any refrigerant. I did jumper the relay output locations with a switch. The clutch pulls in and the compressor spins.


Off to do some research and I'm open to suggestions.

 

[CorvairGeek]

IIRC, there are high and low pressure switches in the head of the compressor, as well as a transducer in the high pressure line that allows the ECU to control the compressor as well as cooling fans. Unfortunately, my experience is with the older body, so there may be variations.
Disconnecting and reconnecting the battery after the low pressure switch is closed with refrigerant pressure might be an easy fix.

 

[Waiex191]

I just realized that the coupler valves work backwards. There is hope!

 

[CorvairGeek]

I know that feeling. I had the service port valve (the old fashioned kind in auto A/C) on my motor home ('95 Ford F53, Sanden compressor) turned completely off running the compressor in a vacuum the other day 😕

 

[Waiex191]

I am still struggling trying to get the refrigerant to leave the can. I have a HF gauge set. I turned the coupler valves the correct way this time. My can adapter is the puncture type. I open up the low pressure side, open the can, turn on the compressor, and nothing. Do I need more RPM? Or is there something wrong with my setup?

 

[CorvairGeek]

I would suspect something in your set up. I've had a lot of trouble recently with shrader valves that just don't seem to allow much flow. Took one completely out of my side can tap it made me so mad. Worked fine the previous time I had used it.

 

[Waiex191]

I would suspect something in your set up. I've had a lot of trouble recently with shrader valves that just don't seem to allow much flow. Took one completely out of my side can tap it made me so mad. Worked fine the previous time I had used it.

I was wondering what those valves were for. Maybe I'll pull them out and try again.

 

[Waiex191]

On another topic, I think one of my wheel bearings is bad but I'm not sure which one. Jacked up all 4 wheels. Didn't see a lot of play or hear any bad noise. The fronts were hard to spin. I had one up off the ground at a time. Also tried to ride a bicycle along the wheels while going and could not figure out the source of the noise. Any clever ideas, or should I let it go for a while? This car had been sitting for 5 years.

 

[Waiex191]

I pulled up to my hangar today to drop off a few things. As I pulled away it was apparent I had a flat. That was convenient. I pulled it into the hangar and got a ride to my house. Not too far to walk but it was raining.


These tires have sat for 5 years so they don't owe me anything. Also I got my first real code:


I am thinking the rusty vapor lines have failed. I bought ends and I have AN fittings to splice them.
Hoses/Lines & Clamps Fuel Line / Hose Fuel Line / Hose Adapter Parts | RockAuto

I bought the 1/4" ones. I'll have to keep an eye on my filler neck too.

I am debating replacing the rotors and pads. The old ones have plenty of meat but could be warped and causing my vibration. It is an easy and cheap swap.

 

[CorvairGeek]

"I am debating replacing the rotors and pads. The old ones have plenty of meat but could be warped and causing my vibration. It is an easy and cheap swap"

They could definitely be the cause of pulsation when braking, but the old tires are highly suspect in general.
Old tires scare me! I just threw away eight Michelin XPS Rib truck tires with only about 3K miles on them that still looked like new. I bought them 13 years ago.

 

[Waiex191]

No pictures but we just got back from LKQ. We scored a pair of steelies for snow tires, a windshield washer pump, A/C compressor, underhood junction box cover, folding cup holder, and some bleeders for the cooling system.

 

[Waiex191]

Here is my tire that went flat.


Nasty hole in the sidewall. We put the junkyard steelies on the back. No more vibration! The car will get 4 new tires all around before too long, but I want to spread out the bills a little.

Our window washer pump was inop. We bought one from the junkyard. When I pulled the old one out of our car it looked immediately bad. Was rusted and cracked.


Our cupholder was broken and missing. We found one in a Lesabre that looked about right. It wasn't but my kid improvised and used the broken mount and the new junkyard cupholder.


I am really psyched that I don't have to buy bearings or rotors. One less thing to worry about. I have one more update but I'll post that in my high idle thread.

 

[Waiex191]

Here are my junkyard steelies on the back. They fixed my vibe issue.


I just recorded 21.5 MPG on my fillup. This was the first one where I could calculate MPG. Does that seem good for a 2000 Century? Some of those miles were driven by my oldest, and I know he was lead footing it. My Saturn pulls down about 30 on my commute during the summer months.

 

[Waiex191]

Again, two boys turning wrenches and minimal fighting. Victory.

Finally found the cabin air filter.


It was done.


It was hard to yank the fans. Before we found the stupid plastic rivet on the bottom, it was impossible.


Here is my compressor with its grindy clutch. With the UV light it looks like it is leaking at the seam of the housing.


Off to LKQ tomorrow, I hope. Ideally the system will hold vacuum and then pressure long enough to find the next leak. This is the car where I will learn to fix AC systems. I just spent about $900 on my wife's 2008 Mazda to get the air fixed. That is about what I have into my Century total so far.

 

[Zeroboostbuick]

I've replaced 2 compressors and both were easy and worked good afterwards.
I did add oil through the fitting between filling the freon just to make sure there is enough oil in the system. I did test the oil content and came out good, but I added some more anyways.