Anyone have their high pressure fuel pump go out?

BayouBuick

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2012 Buick Regal GS
2012 GS with 149,000 miles and my high pressure fuel pump just went out. Quote from a local shop is $1010 to fix!:sad: The part alone is over $600 and has to come from GM.😡
 
RockAuto has the pump for $291.79 (AC Delco part), and Amazon has it for $299.78 (AC Delco part #HPM1005).

The swap seems like it would be pretty easy, with that pump sitting right up near the top of the engine. I have not done it though, so I can't confirm if it's easy or difficult, but it sure looks like two fuel lines, an electrical connector, and two bolts holding it to the cylinder head, all fairly easy to access.

It's a high pressure system, so it's probably necessary to bleed off any pressure first, although if your pump failed you probably don't have any pressure.

Show them the part on Amazon and ask why they think it's $600 (even 'gmpartsdirect' has it for $370). And ask them to show you what is required to pull it and how they justify $400 in labor to do it. Good luck.
 
Have done fuel filters on fuel injected cars. If you don't relieve pressure, you will get fuel spraying a bit. Can get by with a rag and surrounding the area you are removing the hose from.....much better idea to follow instructions to remove pressure (not hard).

If the pump is outside the fuel tank......do it yourself. Have a fire extinguisher around just in case. Gas can make a big mess and fast.....once on fire..........run and get extinguisher.
 
I did a high pressure fuel pump on my HHR SS with a 2.0T LNF engine. ZZPerformance had "take-off" parts for around $350. The high pressure solid metal fuel lines running to and from the pump are supposedly single use, but most people have successfully reused both lines without an issue, add another $100 or so if you order those lines as well.

Changing the pump is about a 30-45 minute job. It's located right on top of the engine on the right side of the head. It's as simple as removing the engine cover, a few mounting brackets, and a noise damper cover. You'll then need to bleed the high pressure line via the schrader valve, unscrew the fuel lines, remove the electrical connector and finally remove two bolts to take the HPFP itself off. Once it's off, you'll want to check the cam follower for any scoring or damage which might indicate you have a cam problem as well. If it looks good, oil up and replace the the cam follower and slap the new pump on (pay attention to the orientation marks on the new gasket), replace the other bits and you're done.

One word of caution, a lot of LNF engines had supposed HPFP failures and replacing the pump won't necessarily fix the problem. Apparently there's a known issue with corrosion of the electrical connector for the HPFP so this should be looked at first prior to spending big money on a new pump that you may not need. If you google around the Solistce/Sky forums or HHR/Cobalt forums you'll find a lot of information on HPFP replacement. The best indicator that your HPFP is toast is fuel pressure that sits around 50-70 psi on the high pressure side. This indicates that the in tank pump is working but that the HPFP isn't building pressure, the car is also unlikely to start if this is the case. With a working HPFP you should see 200-300 psi at idle on the high pressure side.
 
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Is it the conventional "Right side of the engine" as viewed from drivers seat? Or is it the "Right side of the engine" as viewed with the hood open?
 
Anytime you are referring to what side of the car something is on, it should be from the perspective of you sitting in the driver's seat. That is how mechanics, technicians, and parts replacers do it, fyi.
 
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