Battery drain???

[Ziggy]

Wear and oxydation of contacts and switches can cause a leak in current that can drain your battery. The bulb in question may appear to be off, but there still can be a current flowing, not enough to light the bulb but in the end it can still drain the battery.
It would have to be connected to that 60a batt1 fuse, you have to disconnect everything that is connected to that one by one and in the end you will find it.

 

[fm9572]

FFarr, you say the rear air is "inoperable." Have you removed the fuse to it, or disconnected the harness to the compressor? Otherwise, it will drain power. The compressor can be 'burned up,' and still pull power from the system. If the height sensor tells the system it's 'sitting low,' then it's going to send a signal to the compressor. If the compressor is 'locked up' and not running, it's just like having a shorted wire.

I hate sounding like a salesman, but that air suspension was crap, and had tons of problems. I just got through talking with another member about the air system. I'm not going to go through the same 'tutorial' I gave them, but I will link you to it. Here you go. http://buickforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=34262&page=3

 

[HotZ28]

I assume you have used the same procedure of pulling fuses in the passenger side fuse/relay panel? If not, that is where the power antenna fuse/relay is located and that particular circuit has been know to create a high drain. Of course there are others circuits in that panel (shown below) with fuses & relays that should be checked also.

 

[fm9572]

Anything that has a motor and is wired to the battery is a candidate, really. There's a lot of things to check, especially if you have one with almost every option, like my 1994.

 

[FFarr]

Wear and oxydation of contacts and switches can cause a leak in current that can drain your battery. The bulb in question may appear to be off, but there still can be a current flowing, not enough to light the bulb but in the end it can still drain the battery.
It would have to be connected to that 60a batt1 fuse, you have to disconnect everything that is connected to that one by one and in the end you will find it.

I think everything that is powered on the inside of the car goes through that maxi fuse. Whatever it is (or was) was not fused (except for the maxi fuse).

FFarr, you say the rear air is "inoperable." Have you removed the fuse to it, or disconnected the harness to the compressor? Otherwise, it will drain power. The compressor can be 'burned up,' and still pull power from the system. If the height sensor tells the system it's 'sitting low,' then it's going to send a signal to the compressor. If the compressor is 'locked up' and not running, it's just like having a shorted wire.

I hate sounding like a salesman, but that air suspension was crap, and had tons of problems. I just got through talking with another member about the air system. I'm not going to go through the same 'tutorial' I gave them, but I will link you to it. Here you go. http://buickforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=34262&page=3

The compressor has been removed from the car right after I bought it.

I assume you have used the same procedure of pulling fuses in the passenger side fuse/relay panel? If not, that is where the power antenna fuse/relay is located and that particular circuit has been know to create a high drain. Of course there are others circuits in that panel (shown below) with fuses & relays that should be checked also.

My antenna is imbedded in the back glass, my passenger compartment fuse panel looks nothing like the one you pictured.

Anything that has a motor and is wired to the battery is a candidate, really. There's a lot of things to check, especially if you have one with almost every option, like my 1994.

I've checked everything but the "security" system and the disconnects in the column. The old girl started right up this am and ran great!

 

[FFarr]

I think I've figured out the problem.
The car has quite a few miles (230K) and the switch is somewhat worn. When I was turning the car off I was turning the key all the way to accessory and then removing the key. It's also possible to turn the car off, remove the key and restart the engine without the key.
Now that I know what the problem is I will make sure the key is not in the accy. position.
I'm 90% sure that is the problem, I feel stupid I tore the car apart when the problem was so simple.

 

[Spriteman]

That's the best kind of problem to have - just be glad you didn't spend a bunch of cash to figure it out.

When you do pull the key in accessory position do you see the amps flowing?

 

[LMG1438]

I had the problem with my gauges spun around,and battery not staying charged .Also everything would go dead or turn off Dash -radio -A/c the engine wouldnt stall ,then after serveral minutes everything working .I have a battery cable (side post) bolt that wasnt threaded all the way.In other words the bolt would run out of threads before it clamped or tighened down on the cable,replaced it . I know this isnt help for a battery drain just wanted to pass this along to all you guys.

Take car all

LMG

 

[FFarr]

I had the problem with my gauges spun around,and battery not staying charged .Also everything would go dead or turn off Dash -radio -A/c the engine wouldnt stall ,then after serveral minutes everything working .I have a battery cable (side post) bolt that wasnt threaded all the way.In other words the bolt would run out of threads before it clamped or tighened down on the cable,replaced it . I know this isnt help for a battery drain just wanted to pass this along to all you guys.

Take car all

LMG

Thats the same problem I was having, car wouldn't start. I knew the threads on the + side of the battery were stripped (and the cable was loose) so I thought I would install a 3/8-16 heli coil. Bad idea so I had to buy a new battery. When I was installing the new battery I could see and hear arcing. This led me on the battery drain goose chase.

The stripped threads lead me to believe the previous owner may have had an issue with the battery drain.

 

[FFarr]

I had a similar problem recently, my ignition switch is worn and the key can be removed before the switch is in the off position . I belived that was the problem or it repaired itself LOL.

Good luck with your repair.

LMG

You nailed it pal!

 

[fm9572]

Glad to hear you figured it out. 9 times out of 10, it's something simple that is overlooked when we go hunting for the complicated stuff. Let us know if the battery stays charged. My switch isn't that bad, but it has issues with that little security chip. Sometimes it won't let me start the car. I have to wait until the security light goes out, and then it lets me crank the car.

 

[FFarr]

Glad to hear you figured it out. 9 times out of 10, it's something simple that is overlooked when we go hunting for the complicated stuff. Let us know if the battery stays charged. My switch isn't that bad, but it has issues with that little security chip. Sometimes it won't let me start the car. I have to wait until the security light goes out, and then it lets me crank the car.

So far so good

Now that I realize the switch is the problem I know if the radio doesn't cut off when I open the door, the switch is in accessory position.