Brembo Brake Servicing

[FatherDeth]

I'm down to next to nothing on my front Brembos. I can change brakes out like no other, but I was wondering if the Brembos are any different for servicing/replacement. Do the calipers have two bolst that hold them on and do the pads just slide in and out? I'm kind of vain when it comes to my car and I don't want to damage the finish on the calipers. So basically, I'm wondering if this is an easy job? Thanks!!

One more thing, I've noticed some Brembo calipers in GS' have a crinkled finish while mine has a smooth finish. Does anyone know what the difference is?

 

[Walt G]

Super easy pad replacement with the Brembos.

The calipers don't even move. No bolts need to come out. Push out two pins (tap them with a punch/hammer to get them moving), and the pads slide right out the top.

Don't forget before you pull out the old pads to use a large screwdriver or something similar to gently push the pistons in a bit so there will be room for the new (thicker) pads to slide in.

Couldn't be easier.

 

[2012gsguy]

use the old pads as a lever to use a pry bar to push the pistons back...

 

[FatherDeth]

Super easy pad replacement with the Brembos.

The calipers don't even move. No bolts need to come out. Push out two pins (tap them with a punch/hammer to get them moving), and the pads slide right out the top.

Don't forget before you pull out the old pads to use a large screwdriver or something similar to gently push the pistons in a bit so there will be room for the new (thicker) pads to slide in.

Couldn't be easier.

So, this is if I reuse the same rotors? I was thinking of putting drilled and slotted rotors on. But if it's that easy to change the pads out without taking the calipers off, then I might just go that route.

 

[FatherDeth]

use the old pads as a lever to use a pry bar to push the pistons back...

Thanks!! So basically use them for leverage before taking them out?

 

[ink]

I replaced mine with ats ceramic....great stopping power....no dust....

 

[Walt G]

Thanks!! So basically use them for leverage before taking them out?

The old pads aren't really providing 'leverage' to push the pistons back in per se. They are just a nice flat surface to push against with your screwdriver so both pistons go back in together. Put the screwdriver between center of pad and rotor.

The pistons push back in with very little effort, but if you push on just one piston directly (instead of both at the same time via the pad), I'm pretty sure the other piston just pushes back out instead of forcing the fluid back up into the master cylinder where you want it to go.

You'll see when you do it. It's super easy.

If you did want to change the rotor, then it will take more effort of course, and I've never done that so I can't comment on exactly what needs to be done.

 

[FatherDeth]

The old pads aren't really providing 'leverage' to push the pistons back in per se. They are just a nice flat surface to push against with your screwdriver so both pistons go back in together. Put the screwdriver between center of pad and rotor.

The pistons push back in with very little effort, but if you push on just one piston directly (instead of both at the same time via the pad), I'm pretty sure the other piston just pushes back out instead of forcing the fluid back up into the master cylinder where you want it to go.

You'll see when you do it. It's super easy.

If you did want to change the rotor, then it will take more effort of course, and I've never done that so I can't comment on exactly what needs to be done.

Thanks!! This make perfect sense now. I just need to order the pads now!!

 

[jay3737]

this is how you changed pads on my '06 WRX...just pull the pins and the clips and swap 'em out. made trackdays really easy...

anyone else have good experience with the ats ceramic pads as well???

 

[Laxnut]

What's the best way to compress the pistons though? I had used a C-clamp, but it was extremely awkward and had to put a rag at the contact points to avoid destroying caliper paint.

 

[Walt G]

What's the best way to compress the pistons though? I had used a C-clamp, but it was extremely awkward and had to put a rag at the contact points to avoid destroying caliper paint.

That's exactly what we're talking about with the old pads still in there and a screwdriver. Just pry between the rotor and the center of the old pads before you pull them out to push the pistons back in.

They go in so easily that you don't need a c-clamp.

 

[Crisis]

Thanks!! So basically use them for leverage before taking them out?

If you're also changing discs, just get a $5 screw clap from Lowers/Homedepot and sweeze the pistons in after you remove the caliper. You will have to remove the caliper for a disc change.

I wouldn't mess with crowbars and screwdrivers if the caliper is coming out.
To make it a bit faster, loosen the pad pins first but don't remove, let them sit in there loosely. Remove caliper. Use the clamp on the old pad, that will push both pistons in at once. After that remove pins and old pads.

Replace the disc, lube the caliper where the caliper touches the side of the pads, and lube the face of the pistons. Just a light coat. Bolt caliper back in, insert pads, insert pins.

I remember the caliper bolts being 18mm.. Not sure.

This is just my opinion of course.

 

[FatherDeth]

Well, I ran into a problem. I won't be able to get pads in before my trip to the dealer on Tuesday. I'm probably going to just buy pads from there and then replace them. My right brake pad I'm not concerned with too much as it has some good meat left on it. The left one is my concern. It's pretty low, but I think it'll be okay.

Would it be worth it just to have the dealer replace them out, or just buy the pads and and replaceme them after the trip there? I'm honestly not trying to spend a lot of money. I also don't want the dealer to say that the brakes are causing all the noises I'm hearing. I understand if it sounds rough while braking, but when not applying the brakes, my steering shouldn't be making noises and neither should the engine.

 

[FatherDeth]

If you're also changing discs, just get a $5 screw clap from Lowers/Homedepot and sweeze the pistons in after you remove the caliper. You will have to remove the caliper for a disc change.

I wouldn't mess with crowbars and screwdrivers if the caliper is coming out.
To make it a bit faster, loosen the pad pins first but don't remove, let them sit in there loosely. Remove caliper. Use the clamp on the old pad, that will push both pistons in at once. After that remove pins and old pads.

Replace the disc, lube the caliper where the caliper touches the side of the pads, and lube the face of the pistons. Just a light coat. Bolt caliper back in, insert pads, insert pins.

I remember the caliper bolts being 18mm.. Not sure.

This is just my opinion of course.

Thanks! Even taking the calipers off sounds like an easy job.

 

[Crisis]

Thanks! Even taking the calipers off sounds like an easy job.

It is. It helps if you have a 30 inch braker bar, and 1/2" sockets.
A cheep bungee cord helps too to hold the caliper while you change the disc. Not mandatory, but be careful not to damage the brake hose.

 

[GTXgp]

I have rotors and pads sitting in boxes waiting for me to get off my ass and swap them. Hopefully I will get around to it this weekend and will report back if I find anything unusual with the rotor swap.

 

[FatherDeth]

I got my pads in yesterday. I went with Stop Tech Syreet Performance pads, part number 309.10010
I was going to attempt swapping them out this afternoon and then found out the Auto Hobby Shop is closed for a while. I will now try an attempt it tomorrow in my parking area in housing. Anybody have any advice on jacking these cars up?

 

[jay3737]

I got my pads in yesterday. I went with Stop Tech Syreet Performance pads, part number 309.10010
I was going to attempt swapping them out this afternoon and then found out the Auto Hobby Shop is closed for a while. I will now try an attempt it tomorrow in my parking area in housing. Anybody have any advice on jacking these cars up?

be very careful. the damn side skirts extend so much further below the standard jack points. i was unable to get my aluminum low-profile jack on the point without smashing the skirts...so i had to use a widowmaker from one of my other vehicles. i could not find any info anywhere on a central front jack point where i could lift the car from under the front bumper and raise both wheels simultaneously.

on a related note, i have the stop tech street performance pads on my wife's forester...they made a big difference in stopping power over the horrible OEM pads.

 

[FatherDeth]

be very careful. the damn side skirts extend so much further below the standard jack points. i was unable to get my aluminum low-profile jack on the point without smashing the skirts...so i had to use a widowmaker from one of my other vehicles. i could not find any info anywhere on a central front jack point where i could lift the car from under the front bumper and raise both wheels simultaneously.

on a related note, i have the stop tech street performance pads on my wife's forester...they made a big difference in stopping power over the horrible OEM pads.

Thanks for the heads up! I kind of feared the side skirts would be too low. Since reading this, I'm going to wait until the 23rd when the Auto Hobby Shop opens again. If the job is as easy as everyone says it is, it shouldn't take long because the car will be on a lift.

It's good to know that the Stop Tech pads will perform good!!

 

[GTXgp]

I have a low rise jack and didn't have any problems getting under. Either way, it is not so low that driving on a 2x4 wouldn't give you plenty of clearance for any jack style.

I didn't get the brakes done as planned last weekend. I am planning to knock it out this coming weekend instead.