HELP Will not start....

[melissa1975]

I have a problem starting my buick lacrosse 2010. I use the remote start it turns on. WITH both remotes with me it will not crank with the button. Says remote not detected. This has happened before. Took to dealership, did the remote underneth the cup holder thing it tells you to do in the manual and still no remote detected. The batteries were changed in both remotes up there and I was sent packing. Today getting to take the kids to school same thing. Now home waiting for the dealership to open. I started it with the auto starter, locked and unlocked the doors a couple times to see if it would "refresh" then put the remotES< both > near the button, put the buttons on the holder under the cup holders and nothing.
See when I got this car they had to charge the battery before they could pull it out of the show room....
Anyone got any ideas.........? Same issues or suggestions.

 

[92sub]

I haven't seen anything related to this but I'm not exactly sure I understand your situation correctly.
Are you saying that whenever BOTH remotes are in the car it won't start or do you mean that it won't detect one and then you get the other and it still won't detect it?

 

[Mad*Max]

Is the dealer still investigating?

 

[tk0329]

I just experienced the same issue. A slightly low battery, in one FOB, and I changed it. Went to the care, and received message, "No Remote Detected". I try the other FOB, same response. I have the shop manuals, 3000 pages, so I followed the instructions. Sometimes you get the message prompts, on the CID screen, and sometimes you don't. No matter did not work. I decided that the system had been firmware upgraded, more then, once since the first production vehicles. The number of steps in the shop manual nearly equaled the steps to launch the space shuttle. Press this key , on the FOB, press the ignition button after this. Forget it. I did the first step, turning the manual key on the drivers side door 5 times to the unlock position. Then place the FOB under the cup holder, after pulling the cup holder out. I came back in 15 minutes, and the FOB was detected. All was well. I did the same thing for the second FOB, and that worked also. So I am wondering when these changes are made to the technology why the owners are not notified with the new instruction sets? The technical changes are leading the instruction sets, on these cars. We need to receive the instruction changes to these vehicles like Microsoft does for your PC. The technical updates are of no benefit if the owner does not have the instructions on how to use the changes to the vehicle. Before you change the battery in your key FOBS you might want to be at the dealer to do this.

 

[airmike1]

You most likely need a new car battery. Mine already went out last month. I encountered the same symptoms as you are experienced. After I replaced my car battery, the remote start feature was much improved. When the dealership had to jump start your car, or quick charge it, the battery must have at some point, was discharged to the point of damaging the battery. If you have a loaded Lacrosse like mine, you need a very good battery. Good luck, and enjoy your Lacrosse.
Mike

 

[dmrthanyou]

I have had this same behavior multiple times with my 2010 LaCrosse. Eventually the car will "wake up" and recognize the remote. But it can take a long time (15-20 minutes). Sometimes pushing buttons on the remote seems to trigger recognition, but that may just be random timing between when the car wakes up and when I'm pushing the buttons. I cannot say I have found any firm correlation. Car has already had the battery replaced under warranty. And dealer has had the car after one of these episodes, and could find nothing. Buick has a problem here. I hate this wireless, push button start system. It has left us stranded, and is a constant concern that it will happen again. But I don't know what to do.

 

[HMTJ6821]

Let me try to be clear. The remote start feature will not work if either or both of the FOBs are INSIDE the vehicle. This is to protect the vehicle from theft should one of the key FOBs be left in the vehicle. If one of the key FOBs was to be in the vehicle when it was to be remote started, then the vehicle could be driven away.

Is this your scenario?

 

[8-track]

The keyless starts have numerous issues, but the two most common are fob failure & car battery! With only one fob in the car & you try both fobs alternatly with no success, the issue is with the vehicle 99.5% of the time. Most likly the battery is below the minimum charge level. New cars, & keyless systems are even worse, start to fail to operate correctly as well as sporadically when voltage fall to around 11 volts, sometimes even a little higher. If you store the fob or fobs within range of the car on a continuous bascis that can cause enough draw to deplete the battery of the needed voltage to run the proper functions & as a result not recognize the fob code/command. Advice would be do not store the fobs in range of the car and two get rid of the factory battery and install a dry cell type like Odyssy or Optima. These batteries function like a marine battery (deep cycle) & they don't leak sulfuric acid on any thing & weight half as much. Which for me works as it helps improve handling upfront.

 

[insurman33]

The keyless starts have numerous issues, but the two most common are fob failure & car battery! With only one fob in the car & you try both fobs alternatly with no success, the issue is with the vehicle 99.5% of the time. Most likly the battery is below the minimum charge level. New cars, & keyless systems are even worse, start to fail to operate correctly as well as sporadically when voltage fall to around 11 volts, sometimes even a little higher. If you store the fob or fobs within range of the car on a continuous bascis that can cause enough draw to deplete the battery of the needed voltage to run the proper functions & as a result not recognize the fob code/command. Advice would be do not store the fobs in range of the car and two get rid of the factory battery and install a dry cell type like Odyssy or Optima. These batteries function like a marine battery (deep cycle) & they don't leak sulfuric acid on any thing & weight half as much. Which for me works as it helps improve handling upfront.

Having had my second tow in a little over a month for not starting, this time they blamed the battery.
They put in a Delco silver.... In the DIC, what should be voltage be reading?
The battery they claimed was no good was showing 15.2 when car was on the road...

 

[8-track]

That’s a precarious question! The volts shown on the DIC are really only relevant to the alternator's condition or ability to charge the battery and the state of the battery's condition at the time of charging. What we would like to know is; what are the volts while cranking the engine over during the start cycle? 15.2 on the DIC while driving and staying there continuously is an indicator of one of two possible things. The first is a bad or tired battery, but the second and often enough is a bad regulator in the charging system. A bad regulator can undercharge or overcharge a battery, with overcharging being the worst of the two. Overcharging cooks a battery and in the case of a traditional wet cell it shortens their life, can make them expel liquid sulfuric and larger than normal hydrogen gas! If the charging system is in good health than 15.2 for an extended period, say even 5 minutes indicates a weak battery, but how do YOU know which is which without the proper equipment?
Well if the Lacrosse had one power outlet that was connected to the battery, not the accessory side of the switch like most manufactures do, then you could install a digital volt meter, as I do in that port. When this is done you can see the battery voltage drop when you crank the engine, this all a load test does that service places perform. That voltage should not drop below 10 volts with a good battery. If it does than the battery is on its way out. If you have a volt meter you can do this by connecting it to the battery terminals and then position the meter to where you can see it, but the other way is much more convenient.
In conclusion 15.2 on the DIC is only good information if you know the real condition of either the battery or the alternator, otherwise it’s a guess. Whereas with the meter connected during the cranking cycle the alternator is removed from the equation so now you have a known parameter (battery condition) so you can now draw a conclusion as to what the 15.2 volts means! Long winded I know, but no easy way to explain it correctly.

 

[HMTJ6821]

Very good, 8-track. Anytime a car battery dies early, the regulator should be checked to see if it is over charging. In my personal experience with Buicks, I have had this type of overcharging on every one of my past six Century's and Regals. Acid spewing around the terminals causing corrosion of the battery tray area was the typical secondary effect.

 

[8-track]

This is why i like the Optimas or my favorite the Odyssey dry cells!

 

[insurman33]

That’s a precarious question! The volts shown on the DIC are really only relevant to the alternator's condition or ability to charge the battery and the state of the battery's condition at the time of charging. What we would like to know is; what are the volts while cranking the engine over during the start cycle? 15.2 on the DIC while driving and staying there continuously is an indicator of one of two possible things. The first is a bad or tired battery, but the second and often enough is a bad regulator in the charging system. A bad regulator can undercharge or overcharge a battery, with overcharging being the worst of the two. Overcharging cooks a battery and in the case of a traditional wet cell it shortens their life, can make them expel liquid sulfuric and larger than normal hydrogen gas! If the charging system is in good health than 15.2 for an extended period, say even 5 minutes indicates a weak battery, but how do YOU know which is which without the proper equipment?
Well if the Lacrosse had one power outlet that was connected to the battery, not the accessory side of the switch like most manufactures do, then you could install a digital volt meter, as I do in that port. When this is done you can see the battery voltage drop when you crank the engine, this all a load test does that service places perform. That voltage should not drop below 10 volts with a good battery. If it does than the battery is on its way out. If you have a volt meter you can do this by connecting it to the battery terminals and then position the meter to where you can see it, but the other way is much more convenient.
In conclusion 15.2 on the DIC is only good information if you know the real condition of either the battery or the alternator, otherwise it’s a guess. Whereas with the meter connected during the cranking cycle the alternator is removed from the equation so now you have a known parameter (battery condition) so you can now draw a conclusion as to what the 15.2 volts means! Long winded I know, but no easy way to explain it correctly.

Wow, thanks for info... I was heading to a family type shop on the way back from the dr to have it tested.
But never made dr or the shop..because it was dead.

Do you know if this Delco Silver they put in the same battery or better than the one that failed?

P.S. You're standing in front of one of my favorite cars...Had 3 of them- starting back in '67...

 

[8-track]

IMan,
I assume the battery was out of warranty? The silver is a step up from the OEM battery, but the more relevant information is the battery specs. most likely the silver is minimally better as far as cold cranking amps and reserve capacity are concerned. The warranty is just an insurance policy YOU paid for in the price I.E. red series verses silver series. This I why I by the dry cells as I've said. they cost more, but the money I spend is for the materials not the warranty. they almost always last a good 7 years. I have on in my shop I removed from my Camaro in 04 that still has a charge of 11.65 volts, and its never been charged since I removed it, and I use it for quick 12 volt hookups when I need it.

Yes the Z/28 I'm in front of was and will always my favorite. It was hands down the quickest most nibble car I've ever driven and I've driven a ton of both sport and race cars. Yet time marches on and things are what they are!

 

[Matt gb]

2010 lacrosse I went to use key fob to start no start alarm wnt off.. I open car to manually push start nuthn did it again say no key detected tried again nuthn gave it a jump fired rite up ???? Is this the fuse lookn thing on top of battery the problem??? Need help plyrs11@gmail.com

 

[Remo]

A quick and dirty test that I do that has never failed me for a battery/alternator potential issue is to follow these steps.
1. Turn car on, even if you have needed to boost it, and turn on everything electrical ie: headlights on high, rear defrosters, radio, heat fan on high, seat warmer etc., then beep the horn. If the horn beeps normal you are getting good output from your alternator and chances are if your battery is good at all it will charge.

2. If that test is good, drive the car around, preferably not just stop and go city driving, then back at home (as you do not want to get stuck away from home), turn the car off. Try to start it. If it does not start probably a seriously cooked battery. If it started turn it off but then with the key on but engine not started do the steps in #1. The battery should by this time have charged enough that you should still get a good beep even without the car running. If not it's probably a weak battery.

3. If you have a charger, charge the battery fully then leave the car at least overnight. If it the battery has died again chances are something is draining the battery.

Also don't forget (if you have a battery that you can) to make sure the cell acid levels are where they are supposed to be. If not add distilled water to the proper levels. Although distilled water is best, do not add straight tap water, but if you have no choice use tap water that has been boiled and then cooled. Again that really is by far the second option, really try to use distilled water. You can get a gallon jug at almost any grocery store for just a few bucks. I have had several batteries that were brought back to life simply by adding water. Chances are you will still need a new battery reasonably soon but I have used a battery for as much as another year by just adding water.

This is not a complete diagnosis such as testing if it is overcharging, or the battery is so-so etc, but does work well for general purposes and what is seriously wrong 99% of the time if it is a battery or alternator/regulator issue.

If you ever smell rotten egg smell your battery is seriously overcharging.

Also even if they look clean take off the terminals and clean them.

Before doing anything with your battery mix up a bottle of warm water and a few good scoops of baking soda and poor it on your battery. Keep going this until there are no more bubbles. This is neutralizing any acid on the outside of your battery. This is especially important on the terminals.

If you don't have a post and terminal cleaner, just use a bit of sandpaper. By the time you have cleaned it with baking soda all you are doing is hopefully just removing a bit of oxidization.

After all this it is good to use battery post/terminal grease before putting the wires back on the battery, but to be honest I have often just used a small but of vasolene. It might not be quite as good but it works.

I realize this post has been a bit simplistic obvious to most people but it works an incredibly large amount of the time without any fancy tools or anything and pretty well anyone can easily do it.

One more wierd thing that I heard of, then tried and laughed that it worked was to do the following. If your terminals are corroded, even if they don't look bad, is to use a small nail on them. IE: If your battery is not charging and your alternator seems to be putting out (as per the test above), and you have needed to get a boost in a parking lot, drive a small nail (gently) between the post and the cable until you can get home and take them off and clean them properly. It can provide just enough of a proper contact to allow charging. This can also work of for some reason you cable is loose and you can't tighten it into the post. This is only a very temporary fix but I have actually done it in an "emergency" when jumping someone's car for them it has actually worked. Again, only if your lucky and the issue is just a loose or corroded post/terminal but...

I hope this helps someone...

Btw, seriously use the baking soda and water first before doing anything with a battery (please rinse it all off with clean water once the bubbles have stopped and if you need to scrub with a toothbrush while doing it). I have ruined a few shirts having the acid from the outside of the battery rub off on them.

Sorry one more thing I have seen lots of people miss. Don't just check the wires at the battery. Multiple times I have fixed the issue by cleaning and tightening the other end of the wire, especially where the ground (black) wire is attaching to the car.

 

[Matt gb]

Thanks

 

[headbanger69]

I have a 2013 Buick Verano in the premium trim and I had a very similar if not exact same issue. The DIC said no remote detected when trying to start my car with the pushbutton, but the key fob was able to lock and unlock the doors and also open the trunk. I replaced the key fob battery about 3 months prior to this, but replaced it again just in case. Placing my key fob into the spot under the cupholder did not help and my spare key fob did not work either. I unplugged the negative terminal to the battery for 30 minutes and then reconnected it. That did not work either.

I had this issue 3 days in a row and was able to get it started the first couple days after pressing the start button a few times, but on the third day, my luck ran out. A couple of times when I was able to start it up, the DIC sometimes said that I had to service my power steering and something else. Most of the time those messages did not come up.

The way I was able to fix it was getting a new car battery (Duralast Gold Battery BCI Group Size 48 730 CCA H6-DLG). I was able to get it done with a 6" adjustable wrench and a flathead screwdriver for taking the top shell off. There are a few videos on youtube if you run into any difficulty. If you haven't tried replacing your key fob battery or placing your key fob by the transmitter under the cupholder, I highly suggest trying those first.