how do you change the end links for a front sway bar on a 2001 buick lesabre custom?

15-20 bucks will get you a Haynes manual for this. I know they aren't much to go by on anything else but most sway bar end links are the same or similair. IT HAS PICTURES! LOL
 
pictures would also be really helpful. please and thank you.

Use the present end links as a guide. Change one side at a time. Not a hard job at all, and very basic. Most end links are similar, just the dimensions differ from car line to car line. The links consist of a long bolt and nut, a spacer, 4 bushings, and 4 washers. The bolt usually installs threaded end up into a hole in the lower control arm. There is a washer and bushing on each side of the control arm, then the spacer, then a washer and bushing on each side of the sway bar, then the nut. This is a typical end link.

SwayBarEndLink.jpg
 
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stabilizerlink.jpg


Removal Procedure

* Tools Required
* J24319-B Universal Steering Linkage



1. Raise the vehicle and support the vehicle by the frame. Allow the control arms to hang free. Refer to Vehicle Lifting.
2. Remove the front wheels and tires. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation in Wheels, Tires and Alignment.
3. Remove the left and the right stabilizer link bolts.

Installation Procedure

Notice: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.



1. Loosely install the stabilizer link components.

o Tighten the stabilizer link nuts to 17 Nm (113 ft. lbs.).

2. Install the front wheels and tires. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation in Wheels, Tires and Alignment.
3. Lower the vehicle.
 
The torque spec above is NOT correct. Do not torque to 113 Foot Pounds. It should be around 20 to 40. I don't have a book handy to look it up but look it up and torque it. You can just crank it down but the right torque spec also sets the link at the correct length or close to it. If you just crank it down as far as it goes you might get away with it but it will preload the bar more than it's supposed to be.
 
From my experience, the usual problem with the links is the bolts rust away.
Most likely just replacing the bolts/nuts and reusing the other stuff is all that is required. Grade 8 bolts should be OK.
 
The torque spec above is NOT correct. Do not torque to 113 Foot Pounds. It should be around 20 to 40. I don't have a book handy to look it up but look it up and torque it. You can just crank it down but the right torque spec also sets the link at the correct length or close to it. If you just crank it down as far as it goes you might get away with it but it will preload the bar more than it's supposed to be.
Yea, if you tighten to 113 ft. lbs. the bolt would break! 17 Nm is more realistic, which would be 12.54 ft. lbs. I would recommend replacing all the parts of the assembly since bushings get hard & wear out. In addition, two pack assemblies with polyurethane bushings can be purchased at any parts store for less than 20-bucks (including TAX) 😉
 
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