I need opinions.

luke_dubs

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Buick Ownership
2013 Buick Regal GS
So, here's what is going on.

Around 5 days ago, the unlock/lock button on the driver's exterior door handle stopped working. No problem, I thought. I'll just research and see what I can find. But, since then, sometimes, the car will continuously lock and unlock itself while I'm standing next to it, with the fob being on my person. It has only happened 3 times (most recently, tonight).

I'm not sure what is causing this. Is it the key fob itself? Is it the bad button on the door handle? A bad ground? I'm not sure. Hopefully one of y'all can help point me in the right direction, so I can take care of this issue. Thanks in advance!
 
Do you have 2 FOB's?
If so, try using the other FOB instead and see what happens.
Just wondering if the Battery isn't going bad in your FOB?

Mine were both acting up a month or two ago, I replaced
the batteries and Both are working again.
I remember the Buttons on my Doors weren't always working,
sometimes the Cars Push Button Start wasn't working.
Sometimes couldn't get it to Start.
Sometimes it wouldn't Shut Off!
I set the Alarm off a few times because of the FOB Batteries,
the Information Center told me the FOB wasn't recognized.
The Information Center finally told me the FOB Battery needed Replaced!
Until the Information Center told me the FOB Battery needed replaced,
I was thinking it was the Main Car Battery, it's about 5 years old.

Since I had Replaced Both Batteries at the same time, both went
bad at the same time.
One Remote was used Heavily, the other Hardly Ever Got Used, but
they both went bad at the same time!
 
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Yes, our LaCrosse had the FOB with the switchblade key for lock entry. Kept springing open in pocket, used one of those lobster claw rubber bands around it to keep closed. So button for auto lock/open might be partially detented and additional slight nudge or pressure could trigger activation.

I don’t believe low battery would trigger locks. Usually opposite as not enough power to really activate complete signal. A 4.55Mhz signals and free air transmission was my livelihood (fire alarm sys.). Strange stuff…
 
I would have thought the same, but mine sure did have
a mind of their own.
Sometimes the FOB worked Fine, other times they did
nothing but give me headaches, especially when the
Alarm went off and I couldn't shut it off.

Both of my Fob's are in Leather FOB Cases, very rarely
do they see the light of day.
They are usually hanging from my beltloop and there
is no chance that a Button was accidently pushed.
 

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My apologies for the delayed response.

I only have 1 key fob (a gamble, I know), and the case can pop apart from time to time, but for the most part, firmly pushing it closed does the trick and stays closed. When I have the keys on me, I have them in my pocket, nudged up against my wallet. Because of this, during the 3 instances mentioned, I ended up taking the key fob out of my pocket, but the car still locked/unlocked itself repeatedly for a little while. Even if I tried to use the fob to keep the car locked.

However, an interesting development occurred later that night. Out of habit, when getting into my car after work, I used the button on the driver's door handle. And it worked!! I successfully used it several times yesterday too.

I think I'm going to replace the fob battery. 🤣

Also, I had my car battery replaced a couple of months ago. I'm glad I did, considering the negative temperatures we are currently dealing with.
 
I always have to have my FOB in pocket to operate door locks. Battery in that would be very close for weakened signal to match receiver. New battery good choice, they recover sometimes a bit after discharged when going nill too. Could explain a lot along with signal bouncing or blocked.
 
It didn't matter if the FOB was in the case or out, it still wasn't working correctly.
I took the Batteries out and would reseat them, sometimes it seemed to help,
other times it didn't help.

I doubt your 2013's FOB was any different than my 2015's FOB?
My FOB is a 5 Button: Lock, Unlock, Trunk, Start and Panic.

Thought I was having trouble with my wife's FOB for her 2013 GMC Terrain
last night.
Turned out the problem was she didn't have her Back door all the way shut
(looked like it was shut, but it wasn't).
Wife's FOB is a 3 Button: Lock, Unlock and Panic.
She does have a Remote Start, but it's an Aftermarket (press the Unlock 3 times to Start).
 
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It didn't matter if the FOB was in the case or out, it still wasn't working correctly.
I took the Batteries out and would reseat them, sometimes it seemed to help,
other times it didn't help.

I doubt your 2013's FOB was any different than my 2015's FOB?
My FOB is a 5 Button: Lock, Unlock, Trunk, Start and Panic.

Thought I was having trouble with my wife's FOB for her 2013 GMC Terrain
last night.
Turned out the problem was she didn't have her Back door all the way shut
(looked like it was shut, but it wasn't).
Wife's FOB is a 3 Button: Lock, Unlock and Panic.
She does have a Remote Start, but it's an Aftermarket (press the Unlock 3 times to Start).
My fob is a 5 button: Lock, Unlock, Trunk, Remote Start, and Panic.

Since my last post, the only problem I've had is that the button on the front passenger door doesn't work now. 😅

I've ordered remote batteries, so hopefully a new one of those solves my issue. If not? Well.....I might have to take a trip to the dealer.
 
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So, here's what is going on.

Around 5 days ago, the unlock/lock button on the driver's exterior door handle stopped working. No problem, I thought. I'll just research and see what I can find. But, since then, sometimes, the car will continuously lock and unlock itself while I'm standing next to it, with the fob being on my person. It has only happened 3 times (most recently, tonight).

I'm not sure what is causing this. Is it the key fob itself? Is it the bad button on the door handle? A bad ground? I'm not sure. Hopefully one of y'all can help point me in the right direction, so I can take care of this issue. Thanks in advance!
It sounds like your key fob has a sticky button. Try removing the key fob batteries and see if it stops.
 
It sounds like your key fob has a sticky button. Try removing the key fob batteries and see if it stops.
I took out the battery not too long after that occurrence on Monday; the last time my car behaved like that was also on Monday. It hasn't happened since. But now that I've actually looked at my fob, the buttons are looking a bit worn and have been pressed in to the point that the rubber is cracking. I have had a cover on the fob ever since I've owned the car, but I think I just need a new cover - as well as a new battery.
 
I took out the battery not too long after that occurrence on Monday; the last time my car behaved like that was also on Monday. It hasn't happened since. But now that I've actually looked at my fob, the buttons are looking a bit worn and have been pressed in to the point that the rubber is cracking. I have had a cover on the fob ever since I've owned the car, but I think I just need a new cover - as well as a new battery.
Yes, try that and I hope it works. God Bless, Noah
 
2015 jack knife key type flip fob. I had to get a new one. Dealership as you know is wildly expensive. If you have to finally go that route, I got my replacement at Ace Hardware. Identical to original except without the Buick symbol on it. They program it. It was under $100. Not as inexpensive as on-line price but upfront it works or you don’t pay.
 
Wow, did I forget to post an update.

I got a new battery and a new fob cover, but I wasn't able to get it apart without breaking it, and the cover from the new one wouldn't fit with the back cover of the old one. So, I'm still stuck with the key fob that came with the car, albeit with a new battery. The front passenger door handle button still doesn't work.

2015 jack knife key type flip fob. I had to get a new one. Dealership as you know is wildly expensive. If you have to finally go that route, I got my replacement at Ace Hardware. Identical to original except without the Buick symbol on it. They program it. It was under $100. Not as inexpensive as on-line price but upfront it works or you don’t pay.
As for this.....I'll definitely aim to get a second key fob, and have Ace program it for me. I didn't know they were able to do car remotes. On top of that, I'll have to see where I can get the key cut, if it's even necessary.
 
You don't really need that Cut Key "Until You Need It"!
There are times that you will need it, you just never know for sure when that time will be.
I'm sure you could get one cut at a Locksmith.
I'm not sure if ACE can do them or not, sure wouldn't hurt to ask (I would assume they can)?
I know that Sears that used to be in our Shopping Mall could do them, but our
Sears is gone now.
 
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I'll just look to get another key fob (as well as a cover for the current one). I'll swap over the current key with the new fob, as it isn't terribly difficult.

As for the door handle button, I'm not sure where to go from here. 🤣
 
Are the Buttons on the other 3 doors working?
 
Sounds like the one button may have a short in a wire or that the button is worn out.
You can probably test it with a Multi-Tester, but you would have to tear the Door Panel
apart to get to the wiring.
A common place for broken wires is in between Drivers Door Hinges (not sure if this
area is a problem in Regals or not, but many other cars it is).
 
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