JL W7 Vs Kicker L7

[socal1987]

You door speakers will vibrate your side view's more than a sealed enclosure in the trunk of your GS. The back seats are THICK in this car. Fold down the rear armrest and have your Installer put some "ports" in that carpet covered plastic panel that divides the trunk from the cabin.(It helps)
You should have used a ported enclosure!

You probably have the harman/kardon system. Some things I have experienced while trying to Keep my stock head unit and upgrading speakers in this car.
The H/K amp does weird sound processing to the rear shelf speakers(subs) at higher volumes. If you use those speaker wires as signal wires to your aftermarket amp that powers your sub you will get some retarded bass response at certain frequencies. H/k probably does this to keep everyone from blowing the 6x9's every other month.

I've got more to say but I gotta work. YES BOSS, right away

For some reason the Gain was tunned low. I guess trying to be modest. A quick fix but made it work. Going to swap with a ported tomorrow. The HK system is funny. Higher sub bass at low volume and as I turn it up it cuts back on the thump from the sub and you can mostly just hear the speakers.

 

[nizerims]

socal1987,
Glad to hear it's getting better! If you can, try to find a ported enclosure that is tuned to 33 Hz. It will really wake up your 12W6. A pre-fab ported box "off the shelf" will probably be much better than your sealed, but a tuned "box" is no joke.

Now back to my trials and tribulations with the H/K system. Sorry it took so long, but who the hell can focus with all this twerkin' going on!!

I chose the rear (parcel shelf) deck speakers to tap into for a subwoofer signal first,,,, because it was the path of less resistance. It was the obvious choice and they are right there in your face when you open the trunk. After a few days of listening and playing around with the settings I found myself un-happy, happy, happy with the bass response at higher volumes.

Round 2 (Ding Ding Ding)
I decided to "tap in" to the rear speakers (in the back doors) and let the amplifier's EQ, filter out the "high pass" signal...... This method resulted in more notable/punchy bass at higher volumes, but it lacked the real low bass notes. (again the H/K amp filtering out certain frequencies) This is the method that I would suggest you go with if your current set-up starts to piss you off over time.

With that being said, I ended up going a different route because (I'm Different yeah I'm Different). For NOW, my amps are fed by a Rockford Fosgate 3Sixty.3 Interactive Signal Processor. The 3Sixty.3 gets it's signal from the "low level" signal wires that run from radio in the dash to the H/K amp in the trunk.

Pre-Answers 😉

1. Yes. It is a lot of wiring/work to install.
2. No. It is not that easy to use.🤔
3. Yes. It does make, that big of a difference!


Today is October 10 National Angel Food Cake Day. I can't give everyone cake, but I can give you some 2012 Regal Wiring Schematics.
View attachment 4338

View attachment 4339

View attachment 4340

No Idea why they are all vertical. If you don't want "Taco Neck Syndrome"
Click... save image as.... and rotate it your damn self. I would try and fix it but "AIN'T Nobody got Time Fo' That"

nizerims
Buick Street Team

 

[socal1987]

Taking a look at them now. Will post pics later today. Swapped out the crappy sealed for a monster ported box that was a fraction over the JL recomended but tweaking as usual. I need to figure out a correct tune for this Alpine digital mono amp. I have tuned the imput to a negative 4 db just to keep the sub from having the bottom out motion for the massive port on this box.

 

[bennyblaze]

Whoa love the set up! back in the days between the 90's and 2000's, I just had mix and match of audio brands. From Cerwin-Vega, Hi-Fonics, MTX, Rockford Fosgate, Kenwood, Sony, and Pioneer. (I hated Sony!) I do miss the audio scene though!!

 

[Leicester66]

nizerims Thanks for uploading the schematic pics. This will be invaluable for my audio system modification next spring/summer.

 

[nizerims]

No doubt, glad I could help.

 

[Leicester66]

I been on the fence on what LOC OEM interface to use between the Alpine, Audio Control, JBL, JL Audio, Rockford Fosgate or the MTX processors.

 

[socal1987]

No doubt, glad I could help.

Hit you with a rep for that one. Good work and a great Share!

 

[nizerims]

socal1987,

Thanks man, I've been wanting to stop collecting spoons, and start getting some of these.

Leicester66,

"To Each His Own". I really did want to go with the JL Audio CleanSweep®.(I still may) The 3Sixty.3 seemed more technologically advanced and on an Input/Output standpoint, It was better suited for my application.
The only other ones I looked at/researched were JBL & MTX.

Plan your system and wiring out on paper and see what is best for you.

something to look out for....

I'm on my 2nd 3Sixty.3 (I ruined the 1st one).....

High level input, means High level input. Right?

After installing, one of the steps in setting up the unit involves playing a track on the setup disk at FULL volume......So the unit can test for clipping and signal to noise from the factory head unit. After that "step" my 1st 3Sixty.3 did not work.

Well, they don't tell you in the manual or on the website, but after hours of troubleshooting and web research I found that; each High level input channel can handle up to 22 watts RMS...... (I smoked that fuc#er)

The H/K amp looks like a little piece of junk, but apparently it's good at what it does!😉

Just some food for thought....... Any questions? I'm here.

Buick Street Team

 

[Leicester66]

socal1987,

Just some food for thought....... Any questions? I'm here.

Buick Street Team

Thanks for dinner j/k..
Actually I do have question have you looked at doing speaker driver upgrades. I have a Focal system at my disposal in storage along with some other pieces. I did find a link online in a forum for the Opel Insignia that showed removal instructions for the door panels as well as other items. Unfortunately I cant read German and the online translater wasn't that fluent LOL.

 

[nizerims]

http://www.buickforums.com/forums/buick-regal-diy-section/423-changing-front-speakers.html <~~ This Helped me. Pay It Foward.(different forum,,, you might need to Sign Up to see pics) It's usually dead over there, but they are organized and the search tools work.

I've replaced ALL speakers. Plastic trim tools are a must for this. And I dont know why, but it seems that everyone just leaves the door panel hanging after removing clips & screws. (everything easily unplugs and un-clips.) Take the whole thing off and set it to the side.

 

[talan7]

I just bought an 12 GS with the HK system. I got a quote of $4500 to add a processor (Audessy or something like that) amp, and changing all speakers. I already have a JL sub. i thought that was high. Do we really need to add a processor or is there another way. I would like to spend less than $2500.

 

[talan7]

Oh yes, I would like to bypass the hk amp period.

 

[nizerims]

f$%k? talan7, 5 posts and 4 are about upgrading the H/K system. Now your talkin' my language. If this helps you at all, you gotta hit me with a "REP" by clicking on the "Balance Scale" in the top corner of this post......right up there ^...😀

I'm going to post this here because there is already alot of info in this thread and maybe this will help others in the future.😱

The price portion of your question, I can't help you with... I have NO idea what exact amp, processor, speakers, wires, fuses, or anything they quoted you on.

Alrighty then, let's get started.

Do we really need to add a processor or is there another way.? No, you don't need a signal processor. You could tap into the factory stereo wiring and add Line Out Converters (L.O.C's) or High to low converters to send "RCA" signals to your amp/amps. (NOTE)~~Some new amps have a dedicated "High Level input" or "Signal Sensing Technology" <~~ You won't need LOC's at all.

I got a quote of $4500 to add a processor, amp, and changing all speakers. I would like to bypass the hk amp period. OK, so you've got 9 speakers to replace and you want to add your JL sub.
If you bypass the H/K amp and still want to power all 9 speakers your going to need WAY more than 1 amp.... Some members on this forum have replaced all the speakers (still using the H/K amp), added a sub, and they are extremely satisfied with the results.

The rear deck speakers sound blown (like crap). They sound blown???? (that's funny to me) The H/K 6x9's in the rear deck/ parcel shelf are made out of paper and the H/K amp sends only low/bass signals to those speakers......(one thing I noticed, on some songs,, the WHOLE rear deck would vibrate/flex)... I think, I don't remember for sure, but the 6x9's are mounted to a trim ring that is held into the back deck with 1 little bolt/screw. To get to the bolt you have to remove the C-pillar trim/cover and the rear deck cover. When you do go to replace those 6x9's I suggest using a sheet or two of Dynomat or your sound deadening material of choice to cut down on unwanted vibrations.

Some Problems You May Run Into...

Getting a decent sized Power Cable to fit through the Firewall....Yeah, Good Luck Buddy!!! That might be worth $4500 right there.
I used an oversized 1/0 gauge power cable for my install. I also ran Monster Cable speaker wire from my amps to the speakers, so I already had ALOT of wires routed under the carpet and I didn't want to run a FAT power wire across any signal wires. I Know They Tell You Not To Do This, but I kinda ran my power wire under the car, into the trunk😱.
^^ What I Did ^^
Jack up the Driver Side of the Regal.
Remove Front and Rear Left wheels.
Remove F+R Left Inner Fender Liner/ Wheel Well Liner. Held in by some plastic clips (your gonna break some) a few screws/ small bolts.
Remove the bottom of the back seat.
Remove the 5 or 6 screws that hold the Side Skirt/Rocker Panel to the pinch weld. (under the car)
Run the power cable from the battery through a small hole in the fender behind the Left headlight.
Use cable covers/ wire protectors anywhere the cable comes in contact with ANYTHING...Wires, Plugs, Plastic, Metal.
Use plastic screw in Cable Clamps to route the power wire from that hole in the fender - up and around the wheel arch - and down to a small opening in the Side Skirt.
The Side Skirt is hollow, so feed your power wire from the front to the back and pull it out into the rear wheel well.
**I think I used a dremmel to trim a little bit of plastic from the Side Skirt so it would mount flush again.(you can't even see it)
Grab a Wire Snake or Coat Hanger and lay on the ground with the Left Rear door open.
Remove a few plastic plugs from the wheel well and start poking your wire snake around in the holes. There is 1 small hole shaped like a stop sign in the floor, under the rear seat.....This hole connects to 1 of the holes in the Wheel Well.
Use a drill to make these holes larger.
Install Grommets in both of these holes.
Use your Wire Snake to pull the power wire from the Wheel Well into the car.
Clean everything and put your Regal back together.
**everything may not be exact, I did this to my Regal in June...No power cable issues yet, and I'm not worried about it!

When installing new speakers in the doors you may need to buy or make some 6.5" trim rings. If you remove the stock H/K door speakers and replace them without trim rings...... The magnet on your new speaker may be too deep in the door to allow the window to roll down all the way. (you'll see when you take the door off) Some people have cut the H/K speaker and bracket apart and used that to mount the new speakers to the door.

I gotta get to work..... Any ?'s

 

[talan7]

Does the full signal go to the rear door and rear deck speakers and are just filtered at the speaker? Or is the signal filtered at the deck? I'd like to install some full range 6.5s on the rear door and full range 6 x 9s on the rear deck. Then tap into the rear deck line out for a sub amp for my JL. All of this using the stock HK amp first. Can this be done with the stock amp?

 

[nizerims]

The head unit gives out 4 low level full range channels. ...
Front Left / Front Right.
Rear Left / Rear Right.

The H/K amp then splits & amplifies & EQ/cuts off certain frequencies for each speaker.
The rear deck 6x9's get only low frequencies from the amp.
The rear door 6.5's get the higher low's/mids/high frequencies. (Almost full range) you can use that signal for your new 6x9's & use the low level (factory rear deck signal) for your sub.

 

[socal1987]

Soo

The W6 was shaking things up a bit. A couple of high bass excursions would flex that rear piece like it was a tissue. I used a couple of sheets of the same carpet the box was made out of to reduce flex.


Bottom line this vehicle won't sound the same as any other car you have had with a system in it. It has so much sound surpressing tech that I could be rocking on the inside and be super quiet on the outside. Unless you go with a IB mod that was linked earlier in this post. Should have stuck to my gut and got two. only complaint.

 

[talan7]

I'm looking at just changing the factory speakers to aftermarket and adding a mono amp to power my JL sub, (tapping into the rear deck for signal). A local shop told me that an aftermarket speaker may or may not sound as good as the factory as the factory speakers are tuned just for the frequencies it gets and that aftermarket components may have higher treble with more zing but may not be as loud, depending on speaker.

What's been the experience with aftermarket speakers added with the stock amp? Which brands have anyone used? Are they clearer? Do they hit as hard? etc. Do I need to be looking at sensitivity? What's the total wattage and how is it apportioned?

I like the sound that's coming out now because it's tuned and processed for the car, but I would like a little more zing in my treble and would like it to play louder. I'm pretty sure aftermarket speakers won't play louder especially if they are speakers with bigger magnets that need more power to drive. My last system in my last car had a Kenwood excelon 5 chanel amp with kappa components up front and Rockford Fosgate 6 x 9s in the back. it was clear and really loud but it wasn't as pleasing because it wasn't tuned.

 

[nizerims]

I could go ON-AND-ON. love this shit.

talan, I say, do the sub first. (run a large power wire, just in case) Then replace those "blown" 6x9's......they gotta go anyway, right?

 

[socal1987]

I'm looking at just changing the factory speakers to aftermarket and adding a mono amp to power my JL sub, (tapping into the rear deck for signal). A local shop told me that an aftermarket speaker may or may not sound as good as the factory as the factory speakers are tuned just for the frequencies it gets and that aftermarket components may have higher treble with more zing but may not be as loud, depending on speaker.

What's been the experience with aftermarket speakers added with the stock amp? Which brands have anyone used? Are they clearer? Do they hit as hard? etc. Do I need to be looking at sensitivity? What's the total wattage and how is it apportioned?

I like the sound that's coming out now because it's tuned and processed for the car, but I would like a little more zing in my treble and would like it to play louder. I'm pretty sure aftermarket speakers won't play louder especially if they are speakers with bigger magnets that need more power to drive. My last system in my last car had a Kenwood excelon 5 chanel amp with kappa components up front and Rockford Fosgate 6 x 9s in the back. it was clear and really loud but it wasn't as pleasing because it wasn't tuned.

Running one 12'W6 required a 4ga wire set up. Used the current model 500x1 mono AMP that JL has and it sounded great. No need for swap of stock system if you like the quality. A slight downfall was that when the system was at max Volume the bass would not hit as hard to let the sound come out clear. Since we tapped off of the rear I am not to sure if it was a Sub amp or speaker amp issue.

Go with the Sub first. You going to do it anyways and it might not be something that you would have to do a whole lot of changing.

Not sure if it would work but for the blown speakers but cough warranty cough cough.