Lowering your GS

synolimit said:
not only do thousands of people install them but millions of people buy aftermarket wheels where the offset isnt always OEM. the spacer doesnt have to be welded or apart of the wheel to get the same affect in my eyes. my last cars OEM offset was 55+ with a 7.5" width. my racing wheels were 44+ and a 8.5" width and i never had a problem nor did guys running as low as 35+ offset.

only issue i have is if you use the ones where its just a spacer and the lug nuts lose threads. thats a little scary.
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Adding offset with different wheels seems safer than slipping on spacers. Maybe it's just me but I find it scary to have a piece of metal "float" in between the hubs and wheels. 😱


 
goobee said:
Adding offset with different wheels seems safer than slipping on spacers. Maybe it's just me but I find it scary to have a piece of metal "float" in between the hubs and wheels. 😱


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I understand that. But then you remember it's not floating since the holes are cut to the size of the studs and you have 5 large lug nuts holding everything down with a torque spec of at least 85lb each. If they don't loosen after a few miles they never will.

PS wasnt sure if you meant floating like I use the term. On a race bike our rotors actually float around the hub ring. I mean you can grab it and shake it a few mm. That's something that really floats.
 
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@ synolimit - "Float" is just a loose term I used. As I indicated earlier, I'm not an engineer so I am not debating whether to use or not to use.

Personally I would not want to lose 3 or 4 lug nut turns.
 
I gotcha, was just checking. And yeah the thread lose was my consern too. However some guys buy APR longer studs. PITA to replace but covers your butt and they're WAY stronger as a lot of people don't know torque specs and just use the German saying "Goodintight".
 
Alright, so I have an update... I found a buddy that has the service manual and will even let me use his shop/lift to do the swap, which is much better than jackstands in the garage 😉 His shop even has an alignment rack so I can knock everything out in one stop. It is going to be about 2 weeks before he can get me in.
 
Can't wait to see the results, I plan on doing this on my 2012 gs very soon. Do you still plan on doing a photo walk though?
 
Hey GTX GP, I'm under the impression that lowering the GS won't do anything to the interactive drive system. Have you heard anything where it might? I definitely want to lower mine.
 
FatherDeth said:
Hey GTX GP, I'm under the impression that lowering the GS won't do anything to the interactive drive system. Have you heard anything where it might? I definitely want to lower mine.
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i heard on here it might cause issues. but GM also says dont flash a tune and mess with the ECU so...we know how that goes.

i know on that guys OEM parts page that sells badges and grills etc. his H&R springs say their not for a GS. so H&R must not feel comfortable for some reason or GTXGP got a whole different set of springs.
 
I have a like new GS for sale.... Getting a G8 GXP...my car only has 6600 mi... Did you buy a Regal? Mycar has every option , manual, and 20" rims...


Here's the autotrader link,


http://www.autotrader.com/cars-for-sale/vehicledetails.xhtml?searchRadius=0&listingId=326043601

I'm only asking $31878

FULL iPod integration, Bluetooth audio streaming AND phone calls, SIRI works THROUGH the audio system Dark tinted windows are the only modification, Always garaged, NEVER BEEN DRIVEN IN WINTER EVER...new condition. three sets of floormats: standard (summer), rubberized (fall) and fitted rubberized with sidewalls (winter). Take advantage of my loss, it's YOUR GAIN. This car's list price was $39800. This is the FULLY OPTIONED GS. Taken care of by an adult owner and enthusiast. Selling because I finally found my G8 GXP manual ...
 
synolimit said:
i heard on here it might cause issues. but GM also says dont flash a tune and mess with the ECU so...we know how that goes.

i know on that guys OEM parts page that sells badges and grills etc. his H&R springs say their not for a GS. so H&R must not feel comfortable for some reason or GTXGP got a whole different set of springs.
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Yeah, I honestly can't see here it would do anything as the interactive drive changes the strut settings. Putting a new spring on that is just a tad bit lower shouldn't mess with anything. I can't wait to see your end results. As soon as you get a good write up, I'll probably follow suit.
 
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FatherDeth said:
Yeah, I honestly can't see here it would do anything as the interactive drive changes the strut settings. Putting a new spring on that is just a tad bit lower shouldn't mess with anything. I can't wait to see your end results. As soon as you get a good write up, I'll probably follow suit.
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Only thing I've come across before is some stock struts are maxed out from the manufacture from the get go and the OEM spring is all it can handle. Putting a lower spring on with a high spring rate will blow the seals in a short time. Only a company with a dyno to test the spring loads and such could give a 100% answer.
 
H&R specifically lists these springs as compatible with the Insignia OPC, which has an identical ride control system. Also, guys on the European Insignia forums have lowered their OPC/VXRs without any problems. The only "disclaimer" is that the OPC (or GS in our case) is not lowered quite as much as the regular car.
 
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