NEED HELP 2000 century custom

[chem_man]

Hi Mike,

OK on the new fuel pump and it's current draw.

Right now the only thing I can think of is that perhaps one of the new ignition coils is bad, or the ignition control module is not functioning properly. I hate to have you spend any more $$$ because I know you have invested much time and money into this. Perhaps you have a salvage yard in your area where you could get a factory ignition control module for cheap and install that and see what happens.

Tough part of this is you are there and I am here, several hundred miles away. You have checked everything I would have checked and replaced the faulty parts. Just does not make sense to me at this point.

Another thing you could check is to see if there is a vacuum leak. Take a spray can of carb cleaner and spray around the vacuum lines, the throttle body. and the intake manifold. If the engine suddenly evens out you've found vacuum leak.

Speaking of vacuum leaks, there may be a vacuum line that runs from the rear passenger side of the engine - right behind the alternator and then comes out, loops around and goes into the dash for the HVAC system. It is a rigid nylon line and rodents love to chew on it. This happened to me and took me longer than I care to admit to find it. Fixing it was easy - 3 or 4 wraps of electrical tape. Take a look.

I really feel poorly that I was not able to guide you to a successful repair. One thing to keep in mind is that today, the chances of purchasing a brand new OEM part (or aftermarket part for that matter) that is defective right out of the box is higher than it has ever been, and it does not make any difference as to the brand or where you purchase the part. Even dealership parts departments are having problems per a couple of parts guys on another automotive forum I belong to. There is that much garbage out there and the COVID "crisis" of the last few years has only made things worse.

Good Luck & Good Fortune!

Pat (aka chem_man)

 

[mike nich]

Hi Mike,

OK on the new fuel pump and it's current draw.

Right now the only thing I can think of is that perhaps one of the new ignition coils is bad, or the ignition control module is not functioning properly. I hate to have you spend any more $$$ because I know you have invested much time and money into this. Perhaps you have a salvage yard in your area where you could get a factory ignition control module for cheap and install that and see what happens.

Tough part of this is you are there and I am here, several hundred miles away. You have checked everything I would have checked and replaced the faulty parts. Just does not make sense to me at this point.

Another thing you could check is to see if there is a vacuum leak. Take a spray can of carb cleaner and spray around the vacuum lines, the throttle body. and the intake manifold. If the engine suddenly evens out you've found vacuum leak.

Speaking of vacuum leaks, there may be a vacuum line that runs from the rear passenger side of the engine - right behind the alternator and then comes out, loops around and goes into the dash for the HVAC system. It is a rigid nylon line and rodents love to chew on it. This happened to me and took me longer than I care to admit to find it. Fixing it was easy - 3 or 4 wraps of electrical tape. Take a look.

I really feel poorly that I was not able to guide you to a successful repair. One thing to keep in mind is that today, the chances of purchasing a brand new OEM part (or aftermarket part for that matter) that is defective right out of the box is higher than it has ever been, and it does not make any difference as to the brand or where you purchase the part. Even dealership parts departments are having problems per a couple of parts guys on another automotive forum I belong to. There is that much garbage out there and the COVID "crisis" of the last few years has only made things worse.

Good Luck & Good Fortune!

Pat (aka chem_man)

Thanks Pat you have been a great help.👍 I just do not understand it either, usually i can find the problem, but this one has me stumped. will check again for vacuum leaks today, as far as putting more $$$ into it I will not, i will just sell it like it is. I have had it for about 12 yrs. and always been a very reliable car, serviced always 5 to 6k like clockwork. Just do not understand this problem, it all started with a code for the intake air temp sensor then went on to the other Codes for the other items mentioned in this post that i replaced.😡 Once again thanks for all the INFO & HELP
Mike

 

[mike nich]

Hi Mike,

OK on the new fuel pump and it's current draw.

Right now the only thing I can think of is that perhaps one of the new ignition coils is bad, or the ignition control module is not functioning properly. I hate to have you spend any more $$$ because I know you have invested much time and money into this. Perhaps you have a salvage yard in your area where you could get a factory ignition control module for cheap and install that and see what happens.

Tough part of this is you are there and I am here, several hundred miles away. You have checked everything I would have checked and replaced the faulty parts. Just does not make sense to me at this point.

Another thing you could check is to see if there is a vacuum leak. Take a spray can of carb cleaner and spray around the vacuum lines, the throttle body. and the intake manifold. If the engine suddenly evens out you've found vacuum leak.

Speaking of vacuum leaks, there may be a vacuum line that runs from the rear passenger side of the engine - right behind the alternator and then comes out, loops around and goes into the dash for the HVAC system. It is a rigid nylon line and rodents love to chew on it. This happened to me and took me longer than I care to admit to find it. Fixing it was easy - 3 or 4 wraps of electrical tape. Take a look.

I really feel poorly that I was not able to guide you to a successful repair. One thing to keep in mind is that today, the chances of purchasing a brand new OEM part (or aftermarket part for that matter) that is defective right out of the box is higher than it has ever been, and it does not make any difference as to the brand or where you purchase the part. Even dealership parts departments are having problems per a couple of parts guys on another automotive forum I belong to. There is that much garbage out there and the COVID "crisis" of the last few years has only made things worse.

Good Luck & Good Fortune!

Pat (aka chem_man)

pat , replaced the vacuum line as it was leaking, Thanks, but still not quit all there , better but still looking, I think it is the Cat Conv, but no codes

 

[chem_man]

OK. Quick test to check to see if the Cat Converter is plugged. Remove the upstream Oxygen sensor and drive around. Yes, it will set a Check Engine Light, but it can be ignored for now. If the car drives better with the O2 out, then the Cat Converter is likely plugged and will need to be replaced. I the car still drives poorly, keep looking.

Good Luck!

 

[mike nich]

OK. Quick test to check to see if the Cat Converter is plugged. Remove the upstream Oxygen sensor and drive around. Yes, it will set a Check Engine Light, but it can be ignored for now. If the car drives better with the O2 out, then the Cat Converter is likely plugged and will need to be replaced. I the car still drives poorly, keep looking.

Good Luck!

well removed the o2 sensor, ran better but sold it before i got a chance to look futher, oh well someone else can fix it now. bought for $3500 drove it 12yrs and sold for $2200 i got my money's worth.
Pat once again thanks for the help, Much appreciated.
Mike

 

[chem_man]

OK on selling the "beast". Yup, you got your money's worth out of the car.

It was a pleasure to assist you! Just sorry that we did not get it nailed.