New Sundown Audio E-10 2 ohm DVC Subwoofer

bpwilmoth

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The experiment continues. The HK system sounds really good with the addition of a subwoofer. Has anyone else added one yet?
 
Here is the current .9 cu/ft sealed box for the Sundown Audio E-10. The woofer sounds real good. I'm thinking of trying a ported box to improve efficiency.
 
Nice box man. Did you already do the wiring LOC from the rear and Power from the battery in the trunk?
 
Nice box man. Did you already do the wiring LOC from the rear and Power from the battery in the trunk?
Thanks!

I was lazy and had Car Toys run the power and 12V switched to the trunk for me. I mounted the amp on the back of the driver's side rear seat, in front of the box. I put the LOC (MTX Re-Q) in my deck enclosure under the right rear 6x9 HK sub.
 

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I am jealous of your interior. I wish they made that color for the GS.

Looks good! Enjoying the sub? I like how the current one sounds, but I may upgrade for a little more punch.
 
I am jealous of your interior. I wish they made that color for the GS.

Looks good! Enjoying the sub? I like how the current one sounds, but I may upgrade for a little more punch.
Thanks! The interior really caught my attention when I first looked at the car.

The sub makes a huge difference in the HK system :headbang:
 
I've been waiting to do a radio in my buick. Safe power on stock alt is like 1500rms. Getting the right size boxes makes a huge difference I'm performance in subs. Sundown makes a pretty good product. I'm more of a digital design guy.
 
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I am going to start to tweek the sub in my GS shortly. One observation of your install is Car Toys twisted the power and ground cables together, and you speaker cable looks smaller than 10 or 12ga. I was always told that for 300-500 rms you need at least 12ga wiring. And that you NEVER run power and ground together. The ground should be as short as possible to avoid ground loop noise interference. Am i mistaken?
 
Ground should be no longer then 3 feet. Like strut tower. And bare metal is best
 
Bigger wire you can run the better less resistance.
 
BTW I have a Rockford P2 12 in a .75 sealed box and a JL Audio 500 watt RMS amp in my 4runner and was going to try that setup in the GS with a Audio Control Subwoofer processor. I thing I will also run my 1 farad cap as i do not believe their is much headroom in the Regals charging system as this AMP and sub really tax the Toyota V8 alternator at idle. I will also use my Phoenix Gold 1ga wiring i have left over from the Runner. If anything i will need another 4channel amp for the midbass and hi frequencies. LOL
 
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IMO throw that cap out. All they do it take up space and do nothing for "power". Look up the big 3 on YouTube you'll gain more doing that.
 
IMO throw that cap out. All they do it take up space and do nothing for "power". Look up the big 3 on YouTube you'll gain more doing that.

Do you know what a capacitor does? I'm curious.
 
Yeah....it's useless. Your better off getting a yellow top up front then wasting money on a cap.
 
Do you know what a capacitor does? I'm curious.
Per Crutchfield:
Q: What's a capacitor used for?

A: In car audio, large outboard capacitors, sometimes called stiffening caps, are used to prevent lights from dimming when loud bass notes play. They accomplish this by supplying the amplifier with a quick jolt of power.

In order words, caps make sure there is enough juice for the amp to handle all that booming bass!! :headbang:

I hope this helps.
 
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I am going to start to tweek the sub in my GS shortly. One observation of your install is Car Toys twisted the power and ground cables together, and you speaker cable looks smaller than 10 or 12ga. I was always told that for 300-500 rms you need at least 12ga wiring. And that you NEVER run power and ground together. The ground should be as short as possible to avoid ground loop noise interference. Am i mistaken?
The power and ground look like they are run together from the picture, but my ground wire is pretty short and run into the trunk. I should clean that wiring up a little, but that is way down on my list of priorities. I think I have 12 gauge wire going to the sub and it is a short run, so resistence should not be an issue. It's been so long, I cannot remember where exactly. There is not any engine noise in my system, unless I use my phone as a source with the dash 12V port and UBS power. I noise filter from Radio Shack takes care of that noise. My iPod touch stays in the center console hooked up to the USB port. There is zero noise using that connection, or radio. My little Kenwood amp bridged is 500W RMS at 4 ohms which is enough for some good low end and I don't have any issues with the lights dimming.
 
Anyone upgrade their alternator or know of a larger/ stronger one that will bolt right in?
 
You can always have any alternator rewound to provide a higher output for near the same price as a high output unit. However, and I'm not familiar with the electrical system in these cars, some electrical systems in cars have current regulators that limit the entire systems output regardless of the alternators capacity, in either case it would be pointless to upgrade.
 
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