No spark even after all new ignition

684doorskylark

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Buick Ownership
1968 Buick skylark 4 door
Hi I have a 1968 Buick skylark with a 350 2bbrl I recently got it running again and want to daily drive it in the spring. it was running up till a week ago when I went to start it one day and had no spark at All. I ordered all new ignition parts coil, cap, rotor, condenser, points and just installed them because I was going to before the no spark either way. After I put them all There still was no spark and wouldn’t start. I looked for a broken wire or something visual but didn’t see anything. Does anyone know what the issue could be?
 
Using a voltmeter, what is the voltage with the key in the run position?
What is the voltage when cranking?
Did you use a dwell meter to set point gap?
Did you install the coil with the single wire going to the distributor connected to the negative post?
If you remove the center coil wire from the cap and using insulated pliers, holding it near anything metal, do you see a good spark?
 
Did you check the point gap when you installed the new points?

Measure voltage from coil + to ground with the key in the run position as described below,

"To test the system for proper functioning requires a volt meter. Connect the voltmeter between the positive side of the coil and ground. Turn the ignition switch to the run position. The reading should be 5.0-5.5 volts. It is important that the ignition points be closed for this test. If the points are open, the voltmeter reading will be full battery voltage. Bump the engine over until the points are closed, and check again. Again, 5.0-5.5 volts is the normal reading with the engine stopped, ignition key in the run position, and the voltmeter connected between the positive side of the coil and ground. The second part of the functionality test requires that you pull the coil wire out of the distributor, and ground it so the engine will not start. With voltmeter connected as before, crank the engine continuously, and observe the voltmeter. The reading should jump from the previous 5-5.5 volt reading up to 9 volts minimum. If it does not, it indicates a problem with the shorting switch inside the starter solenoid, or a wiring problem between the "R" terminal of the solenoid, and the coil. This will result in hard starting when cold."
 
Here's a wiring schematic that may be helpful on troubleshooting and doing wire tracing. As the problem occurred prior to the replacement parts it may be something in another area that caused the issue just something to be mindful of.
 
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