Oil Consumption Fixed (Cheap Solution That Worked For Me)

[BVerano]

Thought I'd make a new thread so this could be seen by more people. I had a theory that the following could work and it did for me. Hopefully this can work for others that can't afford to get it professionally addressed.

As some know, the PCV orifice gets clogged up with sludge/ect due to bad design (orifice being too small) which causes too much pressure in the crankcase and oil gets sucked in via PCV hose to the air cleaner outlet duct. Long story short, I did the following which so far has completely fixed my issue with oil being consumed at the rate of about 1/2 to 1 quart every 500/600 miles.

1. Get yourself a vented oil cap that can prevent your rear main going out due to all the pressure buildup as a safety measure. It will say that it does not fit but it does for the 2.4L Ecotec
ACDelco FC219

2. Add Seafoam High Mileage in the gas, when about 100 miles remaining on the tank I added the directed amount into the oil. I then added a small amount directly into the PCV hose port (not the outlet duct side) Why not right? 😆 You only want to run with this in your oil for about 100 miles before getting a oil change done. This greatly helped clean out a bunch of sludge/ect from the oil.

3. Use CRC GDI Cleaner after the above step but within the remaining 100 miles before the oil change. You can simply loosen the Airbox connector, insert the CRC tube toward the throttle body, retighten and follow the directions on the bottle. Make sure you spray it upside down as it not recommended to spray sideways + no space to spray it upright.
>> How To USE <<

4. Get a oil change/do it yourself.. I went with ACDelco full synthetic..

So as mentioned before I would lose about half quart to a full quart of oil every 500/600 miles. After the above steps I am currently at about 1,300 miles with no oil loss.

Let me know if this has helped you! I'll post a update when I hit higher mileage

 

[InfoUpdate]

Thanks for the tip! I so want to try this!! Questions:

How did you add the Seafoam into the PCV hose? It's vertical.

Do you put the Seafoam in the regular place you add engine oil?

What is an Airbox connector? Wouldn't it be better advised to take the throttle out to clean it?

Thank you!!

 

[BVerano]

Thanks for the tip! I so want to try this!! Questions:

How did you add the Seafoam into the PCV hose? It's vertical.

Do you put the Seafoam in the regular place you add engine oil?

What is an Airbox connector? Wouldn't it be better advised to take the throttle out to clean it?

Thank you!!

1- I removed the hose and pour some directly in the port via crankcase side
2- Yes
3- The GDI cleaner is meant to clean intake valves, not the throttle body itself. I thought maybe it could unclog the PCV orifice at the manifold. I thought it would be easier to spray it in this location instead of directly over the throttle body because it's a weird position to apply the spray and because the straw for the GDI cleaner is not curved at the tip like the seafoam spray. I'll try it above the throttle body next time so see if it's reasonable. Also make sure the straw is further in, facing the throttle body as you wouldn't want that to get on your MAF sensor.




At about 1,700 I was 1/4th quart of oil low and 500 miles after I needed about half a quart. Seems to have sludged up again or something. I did top off with Castrol Extended(Gen2) since I had some left.. who knows if that played a part.. When my next oil change is due, I'll retry this complete process and see if anything changes. Til then I'll be topping off with Mobil 1 Extended (Gen3)

 

[InfoUpdate]

I called CRC's tech line and he told me exactly what to do for anyone out there wanting to also try this.

I asked if I should clean the throttle body 1st since I'm sitting just under 100k miles and he said that's what he would do.

They have 2 products 1) intake & throttle body cleaner and 2) CRC GDI IVD® Intake Valve Cleaner

FYI Amazon is double what you'll pay at NAPA or Advanced Auto Part who have coupons and sales all the time. Without coupons or discounts NAPA is $7 cheaper and Advanced Auto has it for almost $10 cheaper without their 20% off coupon. No wonder the amazon logo is a smile!! They're cleaning up on most anything you buy off them!

On the 2nd Saturday of the month NAPA has 30% off the first hour they're open and 20% off the whole day if you have NAPA in your neck of the woods. Advanced Auto has other stores under their umbrella - so check them out. They have 20% off coupons all the time and maybe because I'm a girl, maybe not, they'll always give me 20% off if I ask.

There is a video on youtube: "GM Ecotec Engines with CRC GDI IVD® Intake Valve Cleaner" you can check out. (Scotty Kilmer also has a video on GDI intake cleaner watch it too)

In the comments they have a link to another video, but if you want to skip that video, here's what you do:

1) Clean the throttle body first, there's a video from a guy who did this on a 2015 Verano again, on youtube. Do it with 2 people so someone can turn on the ignition (don't start up the car) and press on the gas to open up the throttle without ruining it while the other guy cleans the throttle.

2) Put everything back together from cleaning the throttle.

Do not start the next steps if you don't have 1 hour to let the car sit and heat soak after administering the cleaner so it can work. You'll then need to take it out on the highway for 10 or more minutes once the hour of sitting time is expired. So don't start this if you don't have 60 min. for the heat soak.

Lets go:

3) Run an errand or go get a milkshake or iced coffee to get the engine nice and hot.

3) Loosen the clamp on the accordion air hose next to the air filter enough to get the little hose from the cleaner can down in there. Point the straw towards the other end of the air hose - that's where your throttle & intake manifold live. (The throttle is square in front of you when you lift the hood.)

4) With the can upside down, squirt short sprays in the hose with the car running at 2,000 to 2,500 rpm. Tech support said there might be a drop in rpm, just keep going. Spray in spurts until the can is gone. Do not turn off the car yet.

5) Rev up the engine to 3000 rpm but no higher than 3500 two or three times, then let it idle for 1 minute, turn car off. Now clamp the air hose back that you loosened in the beginning if you didn't do it already.

6) Now it needs to heat soak for 1 hour. CRITICAL STEP DO NOT SKIP!

7) After the 1 hour soak, take a drive on the highway for at least 10 minutes, but 20 or 30 minutes is better. If you have a friend you can visit an hour or more away, even better!

8) Drive every day, on the highway if you can, for a full week. It will continue to clean up to 1,000 miles so if you have never done this and have lots of build up, you can do it again 1,000 to 1,5000 miles later.

You can repeat this every 10,000 miles so I recommend at least every 15,000 miles given the PCV tiny LESS than a 1/16 of an inch hole that gets clogged and causes H E double L. BONUS: It will keep your throttle clean too!

The tech support guy looked at the 14882 GM Service Bulletin and said if the air goes through that less than a 1/16 inch, famous, GM 2.4L engine, PCV system, PCV Orifice pin hole, there's a good chance this cleaning operation will get to it too. Worth a shot and your intake system needs a clean every now and then anyway, so nothing lost for trying it.

You can use a manometer to test the pressure before and after to see if it worked on the pcv pin hole, but I don't care, I'm giving it a go!

Have fun and enjoy your car!

 

[InfoUpdate]

By the way @BVerano, have you changed out your VVT solenoids yet?

On the 2nd Saturday of the month for the 1st hour they're open, NAPA has parts 30% off (in Texas at least). You'll get both solenoids super cheap. That helps a lot of people with oil consumption too.

Seems this flippin engine has multi-oil eating issues for us to contend with!! Not to mention the piston ring issue. Ugh.

I love this car and got it for a great price, so I want to keep it running as long as possible.

Thanks for posting your idea @BVerano because I wouldn't have thought of cleaning the intake system and I'd been so sad!

 

[BVerano]

Yes I changed the solenoids the day after I bought the car, 2 years ago because it was stalling as I drove home from the dealership. They offered to look at it but I did my own research and figured that was the issue.

I cleaned the throttle body before doing the steps mentioned in the original post about 2k miles previous with no effect. The throttle plate didn't seem that dirty even though it's clearly sucking in oil. 🤔 Also cleaned out the air box, outlet duct(some oil/sludge inside), and replaced the air filter + cleaned the MAF sensor.

The thing with the GDI cleaner, I didn't complete the hour wait (maybe like 35/40 mins) as I had to do some things so maybe that's the reason it didn't clear up the orifice completely? but besides that, I did everything else directed. I'll try again in about a month or so and post the results. Let me know how it works for you..

Also, if you don't have a partner to raise the RPM's.. just use the seat and a stick to the set the RPM's.. I personally used a oil container and my tool box.

 

[InfoUpdate]

Lol. Thanks for the tip on going solo. I do have a friend, but figure a brick might work. Yea. If the build up is bad, I think doing a double whammy treatment is needed to get to that little hole. I don't put many miles on my car, so waiting the 1,000 miles is going to be a couple months at least for me.

I have read up on the product extensively and one guy said that he did an oil change after, then again in 2 or 3k miles to get gunk out. Might be overkill, but I'm changing my oil this weekend so it will be cool to see any difference in the fresh oil after the treatment

The stuff has great reviews. I'm ordering a borescope so I can look around first and see the difference after 1k miles. I'm not real technical, but if I can snap pics of before and after, I'll include it. Somebody on Ebay has a nice model with a 11.5 foot cable for $25 bucks and free shipping. T Takmly brand.

Towode 5.5MM HD 1.3MP USB Android Endoscope Inspection Camera Waterproof Borescope Camera With Light Digital Inspection Video Camera Phone With Otg Function 3.5M Cable Line

I don't know what I'll be able to see with it, but it's a fun toy for the price! lol

Hey, I have a really strange thing with my oil. When the car is hot it shows no oil on the dip stick. I accidentally overfilled it when my engine light came on and I was late to the airport (turned out to be 1 of the solenoids). When it got cold is was slightly too full, just a bit.

Checked it this morning after I ran an errand - nothing on the dip stick, just now cold (as cold as it gets in 105 degree heat ha!!) and the thing shows full. What is up with that? Maybe that's normal. I'm not a car geek. I wonder if I've over filled it before and if so, how many times! That thought is alarming. Ugh.

 

[BVerano]

That's weird.. Make sure you are checking on a flat/level surface and I would get the car to normal running temp.. shut off and wait a couple minutes.. then check the level.

 

[InfoUpdate]

It's 100% level. Can't get anymore level. I just started noticing that recently. Every time it's cold - full dipstick, hot nothing on dipstick.

I've heard my whole life you go by the cold check. I'll ask the guys when I get my oil changed.

 

[InfoUpdate]

1- I removed the hose and pour some directly in the port via crankcase side
2- Yes
3- The GDI cleaner is meant to clean intake valves, not the throttle body itself. I thought maybe it could unclog the PCV orifice at the manifold. I thought it would be easier to spray it in this location instead of directly over the throttle body because it's a weird position to apply the spray and because the straw for the GDI cleaner is not curved at the tip like the seafoam spray. I'll try it above the throttle body next time so see if it's reasonable. Also make sure the straw is further in, facing the throttle body as you wouldn't want that to get on your MAF sensor.

View attachment 38653


At about 1,700 I was 1/4th quart of oil low and 500 miles after I needed about half a quart. Seems to have sludged up again or something. I did top off with Castrol Extended(Gen2) since I had some left.. who knows if that played a part.. When my next oil change is due, I'll retry this complete process and see if anything changes. Til then I'll be topping off with Mobil 1 Extended (Gen3)

BVerano​

I just noticed on a Youtube video that the PCV breather hose that I'm holding in the photo, is supposed to have a airflow stem that fits into the hose from the throttle body cover (aka Air Cleaner Outlet Duct - GM (13372201)). The video was a 2015 Verano (see middle photo) and I see they redesigned this part correctly to have a metal breather hose stem. So you can see in the photo, mine is broken off. That's supposed to have a vacuum. It does a little, but good God! I had no idea til the light hit the now hard as a rock hose and I could see a bump in it. So I ordered a new cover $112 wholesale at dealership (pcv hose was $4). The darn thing came as originally designed on my car - the plastic airflow stem is soldiered by plastic to connect to the plastic cover and this is a stress point!!

I'm going to secure the joint with JB Water Weld prior to installing it to support the horrific joint, but yours looks in the photo to also broken off too. Just curious if it is. The check engine light has never come on regarding this, but my check engine light seems to only come on when there is a 100% breakdown of the part.

P.S. I read somewhere that a guy got a pressure release oil cap and it almost completely solved the Verano oil burning issue. He then added Blue Devil stop leak additive to he oil and that completely stopped the oil burning. I haven't had my new cap long enough to tell, but I hope that will fix my oil burning as well.

Anyone with this problem should also check out this thread - super interesting info about this PCV breather. He had to replace the entire valve cover b/c of oil consumption (not hard). Oil on top of engine
Oil on top of engine

It appears the oil consumption on these cars is not limited to the faulty piston design, etc. that they continued to use for years and millions of vehicles even when they knew it was 2.4 echotec problem!! On top of the PCV orifice issue!

I got my car so cheap during the start of Co Vid and don't mind doing things like valve covers and I love the car, so at 105k miles on it (got it with 88+k miles) I'm okay with replacing these things. Not going to deal with the pistons and all that mess, but I'm getting the timing chain replaced next week before I have a failure there. But these other issues can cause your Verano timing chain tensioners and guides to fail prematurely. Ugh. I see Veranos with 200k for sale, so I guess some of these cars go the distance. I only drive 7k miles a year. It's worth it to me not to have to buy another car for 2 to 3 yrs.

 

[BVerano]

BVerano​

I just noticed on a Youtube video that the PCV breather hose that I'm holding in the photo, is supposed to have a airflow stem that fits into the hose from the throttle body cover (aka Air Cleaner Outlet Duct - GM (13372201)). The video was a 2015 Verano (see middle photo) and I see they redesigned this part correctly to have a metal breather hose stem. So you can see in the photo, mine is broken off. That's supposed to have a vacuum. It does a little, but good God! I had no idea til the light hit the now hard as a rock hose and I could see a bump in it. So I ordered a new cover $112 wholesale at dealership (pcv hose was $4). The darn thing came as originally designed on my car - the plastic airflow stem is soldiered by plastic to connect to the plastic cover and this is a stress point!!

I'm going to secure the joint with JB Water Weld prior to installing it to support the horrific joint, but yours looks in the photo to also broken off too. Just curious if it is. The check engine light has never come on regarding this, but my check engine light seems to only come on when there is a 100% breakdown of the part.

P.S. I read somewhere that a guy got a pressure release oil cap and it almost completely solved the Verano oil burning issue. He then added Blue Devil stop leak additive to he oil and that completely stopped the oil burning. I haven't had my new cap long enough to tell, but I hope that will fix my oil burning as well.

Anyone with this problem should also check out this thread - super interesting info about this PCV breather. He had to replace the entire valve cover b/c of oil consumption (not hard). Oil on top of engine
Oil on top of engine

It appears the oil consumption on these cars is not limited to the faulty piston design, etc. that they continued to use for years and millions of vehicles even when they knew it was 2.4 echotec problem!! On top of the PCV orifice issue!

I got my car so cheap during the start of Co Vid and don't mind doing things like valve covers and I love the car, so at 105k miles on it (got it with 88+k miles) I'm okay with replacing these things. Not going to deal with the pistons and all that mess, but I'm getting the timing chain replaced next week before I have a failure there. But these other issues can cause your Verano timing chain tensioners and guides to fail prematurely. Ugh. I see Veranos with 200k for sale, so I guess some of these cars go the distance. I only drive 7k miles a year. It's worth it to me not to have to buy another car for 2 to 3 yrs.

Yeah the nipple that holds the PCV tube can easily break.. I bought the car with it broken but I did end up JB welding it together. Yes it will have a vacuum leak with it broken but I noticed this car holds up very good with a vacuum leak. I have tried all types of configurations with a oil catch can (sealed/venting) but ended up reverting back to the stock setup after cleaning out the PCV orifice in the manifold. Since it wasn't collecting anything anymore and to rid the vacuum leak for better performance.

The car is going to keep burning/sucking up oil into the intake manifold unless you clean out the PCV orifice which I posted all the info here..
BEWARE: Engine Replaced due to Excessive Oil Consumption Issue

All the things I tried, none of it ended up working and the only solution was to clean out the orifice. It's a easy task that I think anyone can do and I wish I did it a long time ago. Save yourself the money and dive in.. Since the orifice is clogged up, it causes too much pressure in the crankcase.. which is forced out via the top end PCV tube that goes into the breather box.. along with oil.. That alone will cause a lot of problems over time.. I was somewhat lucky since the pressure forced out most of the gas that was accumulating into my crankcase from the common leaking high pressure fuel pump.

I also have the venting oil cap but the only thing it helped with is some of the pressure in the crankcase as a safety measure to save the rear main seal from blowing.. it didn't fix any of the problems I had.

I did notice that the PCV will suck air in (instead of blowing out) at idle if the manifold orifice is working properly.. You can also cover/plug one end of the PCV tube (crankcase to breather box) and it will make a noise quickly after like it's about to stall.. This is a indication that the PCV is working properly.

My Verano is now running perfect and I don't notice any issues I previously had. As a tip, I would suggest changing your oil every 3-4k miles..

 

[InfoUpdate]

UPDATE: Get that PCV orifice clean as a whistle EASY!!

1. Remove your valve cover (the pcv system runs through the valve cover front - facing you when you're under the hood)
2. The center opening circled in image below is where the intake, pcv orifice feeds into that valve cover pcv system
I looked in there with a borescope, but I have the cheap one, thus couldn't see the actual orifice. You are not going to get anything in the crank case.
3. Spray intake/throttle body cleaner via the hose that comes with it into that opening, shooting it towards the throttle body (front of car), making sure the hose is down in there. Spray a fair bit in there.
4. Get a towel or substantial rag - get enough for 4 blows with the compressor
5. Get your compressor with the air gun chuck
6. Cover the hole you just sprayed the throttle body cleaner in with the towel or rag to catch the cleaner you're about to blow out of there.
7. Stick your air gun chuck down in there facing the front of the car and blow it out. The air gun chuck has an angle to it just right to hit the PCV orifice. It's a small diameter too, perfect for this job.

It took me 4 times to get clean fluid to come out. Don't drive your car for a few hours in case some of the cleaning fluid got into the air intake manifold. You want that stuff to dry so it won't contaminate your oil during normal operation of the vehicle.

I got a ton of black gunk out, and my car feels like it can breathe now.

If you use the CRC Direct Injection valve cleaner every other oil change (change oil every 3,000 miles if you have oil consumption) You shouldn't ever have to worry about that PCV orifice getting clogged again.

During the winter months if you're up north, you can use the CRC Direct Injection valve cleaner every oil change.

I had to change my valve cover gasket anyway because the shop put an after market, blue spongy one on for me for free, but I hated it - the OEM is flat - so much better. It's only $20 to $28, just get it. You'll be glad you did.

 

[G-765484]

Thought I'd make a new thread so this could be seen by more people. I had a theory that the following could work and it did for me. Hopefully this can work for others that can't afford to get it professionally addressed.

As some know, the PCV orifice gets clogged up with sludge/ect due to bad design (orifice being too small) which causes too much pressure in the crankcase and oil gets sucked in via PCV hose to the air cleaner outlet duct. Long story short, I did the following which so far has completely fixed my issue with oil being consumed at the rate of about 1/2 to 1 quart every 500/600 miles.

1. Get yourself a vented oil cap that can prevent your rear main going out due to all the pressure buildup as a safety measure. It will say that it does not fit but it does for the 2.4L Ecotec
ACDelco FC219

2. Add Seafoam High Mileage in the gas, when about 100 miles remaining on the tank I added the directed amount into the oil. I then added a small amount directly into the PCV hose port (not the outlet duct side) Why not right? 😆 You only want to run with this in your oil for about 100 miles before getting a oil change done. This greatly helped clean out a bunch of sludge/ect from the oil.

3. Use CRC GDI Cleaner after the above step but within the remaining 100 miles before the oil change. You can simply loosen the Airbox connector, insert the CRC tube toward the throttle body, retighten and follow the directions on the bottle. Make sure you spray it upside down as it not recommended to spray sideways + no space to spray it upright.
>> How To USE <<

4. Get a oil change/do it yourself.. I went with ACDelco full synthetic..

So as mentioned before I would lose about half quart to a full quart of oil every 500/600 miles. After the above steps I am currently at about 1,300 miles with no oil loss.

Let me know if this has helped you! I'll post a update when I hit higher mileage

Thanks for the tip, when mine was barely running. Huge amount of white smoke was pouring out it.

 

[richardnewton]

The 2.4 direct injection engines tend to consume oil, so one should check the levels at least every week. The procedure should be in the owners' manual.

Nobody seems to know what the underlying cause is but GM issued service notes for the PCV orifice & piston rings.

1. One can clean the PCV orifice by removing the intake manifold per the GM service note. We tried a faster way of just drilling a hole into the plastic intake manifold, inserting a big paper clip into the hole to clean the PCV orifice, sealing the hole with a wood screw & rubber washer; took about 30 minutes. We run a paper clip into the orifice every oil change. This reduced oil consumption and engine runs smoother.

Inside the intake manifold are 4 tubes that go from the PCV orfice into the 4 intake runners; those can get clogged in higher mileage cars. One could test it by removing the intake from the car and spraying carb cleaner into the PCV orifice to see spray coming out of the 4 intake runners (see video). Alternatively, the GM service note indicates that blocking one of the external pipes to the valve cover would cause a whiste sound (that might indicate the PCV system is working but not sure)

https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2015/SB-10090101-2280.pdf

-- Paper clip trick to clean PCV orifice

-- How PCV orifice connects to 4 intake runners (10 minute mark)

-- Documents on PCV system and ducts inside valve cover etc.

Detailed Document on ECOTEC 2.4L PCV SYSTEM

There is much misunderstanding of how a fixed orifice PCV system, especially on the GM Ecotec 2.4L engine operates. Attached is a PDF document I created with pictures and description of the entire system. Refer to my previous post on actual pressure testing of the system and recommendations...

www.terrainforum.net

terrain direct injection

www.terrainforum.net

2. Valvoline has a new oil designed to clean piston rings called "Restore & Protect"; that is NOT a DEXOS oil but a few people on the Terrain forums are trying it on their 2.4 engines (we are too).

New Valvoline Restore Engine Oil

www.terrainforum.net

*Also, changing oil very frequently might keep everything cleaner. We do earlier of 4k miles or 1 year.
-- Previously, we used DEXOS approved "full synthetic" and the GF6 rating is designed for direct injected engines.

PENNZOIL ILSAC GF-6 COMPLIANT MOTOR OILS

Pennzoil met ILSAC GF-6 standards at the first licensed date of May 1, 2020. GF-6 is the name of the next-generation International Lubricants Standardization and Approval Committee (ILSAC) standard for passenger car motor oils designed to meet the demands of modern engine technology.

www.pennzoil.com

* One could try the AC-Delco oil cap noted above to protect from rear main seal.

 

[Rich B.]

Really like the tenacity shown throughout this topic. Guess a fix is a fix, GM can’t figure out the over oil consumption, seems oil is getting over slippery. One problem in the “golden days” was high compression engines would have sloppy tolerance piston rings. Guess the idea was to allow for expansion, rings seating and oil seal when running hot. Not all of them certainly but noticing my car this was true, the more abused the tighter they ran and oil was pretty bad by today’s bar. Suppose never say never is still on the table.

And when they line up all the piston gaps in a row with assembly. Too have seen more than I want to with overseas assembly practices. Ongoing flaw, can’t wait for the 1.2L to put quart in every week just sitting in garage.

 

[egpowers]

Noticed the other day some oil on the ground, put our 2013 up on ramps and it looks like the rear main is leaking. I happened to learn about this bulletin, guess I'll call my local dealer on Monday and see if there's anything they can do to help me out on it, we only have 58K miles on our 2013 (bought new in March 2014). Will have to limit the amount of driving until I can get this sorted out.

 

[kjrosa1229]

Noticed the other day some oil on the ground, put our 2013 up on ramps and it looks like the rear main is leaking. I happened to learn about this bulletin, guess I'll call my local dealer on Monday and see if there's anything they can do to help me out on it, we only have 58K miles on our 2013 (bought new in March 2014). Will have to limit the amount of driving until I can get this sorted out.

I have a 2012 verano with just under 60k miles and would love to know if you identified a solution to the oil burning issue. Forfeiting this car would not only be extremely depressing but also just not practical given such little mileage and the lack of issues over the last five years (beyond excessive oil consumption which, to my knowledge, is a new and isolated problem). I wish there were a way to prolong the lifespan of this car without having to be as smart and vehicle savvy as the person who initially posted, because as useful as those suggestions likely are, the execution of such advice is well above my pay grade. I'd trade everything to have the opportunity to call my dad for a solution because he was so knowledgeable but also so patient, he taught me gratitude and good morals and how to overcome obstacles despite all odds, and he was a strong believer of 'dont sweat the small stuff'. It's been thirteen years since we lost my dad way too soon, and that sudden tragedy coupled with the fact that I don't have any brothers... I barely know how to pop the hood. But I also barely drive (~20k miles in five years) and keeping my car in good condition has always been a priority which is why this situation beyond my control is especially hard to accept.
I am thankful for the advice above, even though not my wheelhouse, I've saved this thread for future reference. Notwithstanding the foregoing, just pointing out my limitations and hoping for an easier, more user friendly resolution.
Thanks!

 

[egpowers]

I have a 2012 verano with just under 60k miles and would love to know if you identified a solution to the oil burning issue. Forfeiting this car would not only be extremely depressing but also just not practical given such little mileage and the lack of issues over the last five years (beyond excessive oil consumption which, to my knowledge, is a new and isolated problem). I wish there were a way to prolong the lifespan of this car without having to be as smart and vehicle savvy as the person who initially posted, because as useful as those suggestions likely are, the execution of such advice is well above my pay grade. I'd trade everything to have the opportunity to call my dad for a solution because he was so knowledgeable but also so patient, he taught me gratitude and good morals and how to overcome obstacles despite all odds, and he was a strong believer of 'dont sweat the small stuff'. It's been thirteen years since we lost my dad way too soon, and that sudden tragedy coupled with the fact that I don't have any brothers... I barely know how to pop the hood. But I also barely drive (~20k miles in five years) and keeping my car in good condition has always been a priority which is why this situation beyond my control is especially hard to accept.
I am thankful for the advice above, even though not my wheelhouse, I've saved this thread for future reference. Notwithstanding the foregoing, just pointing out my limitations and hoping for an easier, more user friendly resolution.
Thanks!

So our leak turned out to be the torque converter seal, they replaced the rear main seal while it was out. As for the oil consumption, they are slightly stumped as well given that the car does not have a history of burning oil. In the process of repairing it, they had to drain/fill the oil and all the other fluids, so now I'm going ot be checking the oil weekly to monitor for consumption.