Opti from NAPA, reman vs new ?

[Gbuster]

I bought the cheaper Opti at NAPA today. It is identical in appearance to the AIP (based on photos).
Will post an update after I get it running.

When I bought my RM 7 years ago, at that time, even though it was running
well, I rebuilt the Opti anyway. I was curious. The contacts inside the cap, and rotor were worn.
No rust, no contamination was found. No bearing slop.
The kit I used included the Mitsu optical module, and the usual items. At that time, I also replaced the water pump,
Opti vent hoses, plugs and wires. The Opti has run well since, 60k miles later.

I'll bench test the old Mitsu sensor. I'd like to know what failed.
BTW, 2 years ago I installed a slip-fit balancer hub. Makes the job much easier.

There is something about driving American iron, with RWD, a V8 with plenty of power, and
a great ride that I will never get tired of. My DD is a '91 Park Avenue. It's a great car, but when
I get back into the RM now and then, I think, WOW, THIS is an excellent machine.

UPDATE, 5-7-2021: '94 RMS base: Reman GM Opti, platinum plugs, and Delco wires installed. Opti was purchased at NAPA (a Dorman, from Mexico). So far, so good, very smooth. At first start-up, the idle quality was a bit off, but after about 50 miles, it became very smooth.

Engine seems to run stronger than ever, just a seat of the pants analysis. It had been 7 years since I replaced the plugs and wires, and there was clear evidence of arc-through on passenger side wires. Passenger side plugs all looked a bit rich.

Opti hoses, check valve, and vacuum orifice plate were clean, good.
I did not open up the old opti, core was worth $67 at NAPA and it went
back.

Original coil tower electrode was badly corroded, new MSD Streetfire coil is on order. I replaced the OEM wire looms with Mr Gasket, with a wider spacing, and much easier to work with. For those of you planning to replace plugs and wires, budget plenty of time to do it right. You'll need it.

PS With reference to my mentioning a slip-fit balancer hub (OEM is
press-fit) in OP: I did this when replacing front crank seal, not the opti. Hub stays put for the optiectomy.
,

 

[Larry the Buick Guy]

UPDATE, 5-7-2021: '94 RMS base: Reman GM Opti, platinum plugs, and Delco wires installed. Opti was purchased at NAPA (a Dorman, from Mexico). So far, so good, very smooth. At first start-up, the idle quality was a bit off, but after about 50 miles, it became very smooth.

Engine seems to run stronger than ever, just a seat of the pants analysis. It had been 7 years since I replaced the plugs and wires, and there was clear evidence of arc-through on passenger side wires. Passenger side plugs all looked a bit rich.

Opti hoses, check valve, and vacuum orifice plate were clean, good.
I did not open up the old opti, core was worth $67 at NAPA and it went
back.

Original coil tower electrode was badly corroded, new MSD Streetfire coil is on order. I replaced the OEM wire looms with Mr Gasket, with a wider spacing, and much easier to work with. For those of you planning to replace plugs and wires, budget plenty of time to do it right. You'll need it.

PS With reference to my mentioning a slip-fit balancer hub (OEM is
press-fit) in OP: I did this when replacing front crank seal, not the opti. Hub stays put for the optiectomy.
,

Thanks for the update! My Opti is still functioning. Perhaps I should get one for future use. The car runs & drives smooth! While it's not a 70's G.S., the LT-1 is fairly peppy for an "old man's car"!