Are you 100% certain the shocks and air pump fit? I see the lucerne is s bit heavier so I guess the shocks are spec'd differently for that reason. Might still be a good option for me since I have a tow hitch and I often carry a lot of weight in the trunk and/or back seats. but I would probably want the lucerne springs too wouldn't I?
When my air compressor went out, I converted to manual inflation with a shrader valve that I installed because a replacement air compressor was either unavailable or way too expensive. But I see rockauto has them now for a price that isn't too outrageous so I may convert back, it would be nice to have it work automatically again. Especially now since i have new bushings that I dont want to be overstressed. I just need to consider the lucerne options too now, maybe they would be better.
I wasnt clear enough. The compressor, is literally, plug and play to the Lesabre. The compressor from a lucerne would be younger than any lesabre (except a 2005 lucerne) and it would be better built
They function exactly the same, the wiring is the same, the pressure on the system for the shocks is the same, the set point of the pump and the height sensor are all the same etc. The shocks are just improved design after learning lessons from 10 + years from the predecessor days and early deaths. they would also be tuned nicer. if you plan to use the used shocks or pay 250 a shock for new ones (still sold new for both lesabre and lucerne) , theres no harm in the compressor. you just MUST use the bracket from a lucerne because they arent the same in that way. but it will bolt as an assembly to your car and plug in and take the fittings for the lines (advise new lines which can be bought or made too and ran the factory route)
If you plan to use ANY aftermarket shock kit, including ACdelco/GM [made by gabriel] you MUST install a spring in the compressor to raise the residual air left in the shocks for base inflation or youll shorten the life of them. this means they would be too harsh and too much pressure in a stock absorber. The aftermarket ones are notable in that if you look at them, they all air up the opposite direction than the GM ones. Its possible this is partly why. They will fit on the shock mounts and control arm like the originals. The shocks also varied on soft/firm, but a GM original shock will be far more nicer than a cheap one , so its an upgrade. The mileage is a key repeat detail here about getting the used ones if you can see lol.
The shock mount itself has a "soft ride" and firm variancy but its not enough that anyones really noticed.
The springs on the rear, that coil springs that is, are swappable. just you can buy new ones and original ones. the older the spring the more sagging it will have ,but the more miles will be more wear. a low mileage lucerne that sags a bit with 50k would be better than a 2000 lesabre with more miles even with sag being the same or less. the car will take up sag to height or can be modified to the linkage to fix the height.
Firm ride cars had constant rate springs im pretty sure, and soft ride used progressive rates. you can tell which is on a car because the coil spring will change thickness in the coils to the very ends vs the center. the original appear rather thin and widely spaced in this way.
here so I'm pretty sure thats a cv axle, i will be replacing those next.
not so fast hot shot
First the shaft between the car and steering rack, it connects to the end of the shaft of the column below, if that is going bad it could be a source for vibrations you feel in the wheel, id inspect any steering component or the subframe bushings or the engine mount (passenger side) as first things that arent engine running or tire related
if all that were good, then i would check trans mounts and from there your cv axles. The CV axle (right picture) is very simple overall, and unless youre high mileage you should not have huge issues. they can, however, wear out in more than one way which have different symptoms and they normally will have a warning sign before the outer joint (wheel bearing end, as shown) dies or is able to cause that.
Wheel bearings themselves can cause the issue, unbalanced tires. Those two things can also kill a CV axle.
Your alignment not being done yet basically says you should either do on the ground work first or align first.
Since a CV axle IS still on the list of possibilites and you SHOULD align after undoing the removing the struts as good practice, you should check it out first.
if you grab it by the end I shown you here from the back of the wheel bearing with the suspension lifted up (so the jack under the control arm, and a jack stand on the cars subframe or pinch weld lift point) you should be able to grab there on the shaft and wiggle it. the only movement should be the shaft itself is able to move in and out toward the transmission/away (to the wheel) without there being a radial looseness (around a circular axis around the shaft, like a tire is)
If you cant find any there, then try by the joint in the transmission. if you cant get it to do it there, youre most likely not dealing with a cv axle
Checking the torque on the nut is good. they are
supposed to be replaced anytime you remove it, but id reuse it and just stake it (new ones dont need to because they have one)
To remove a good CV axle or to install a new one YOU CANNOT use an impact on the axle nut. clean the threads and use a lubricant like Deep Creep/PB blaster and use a breaker bar. if you want to remove it faster, a drill with a socket adapter in the clutch at most. The hammering of a impact is HARD On the bearings.
if you found a loose axle nut on the thing like i recommended checking, the wheel bearing and cv axle are both compromised and need replacement. they will die in short order despite a retorque
The subframe pictured for reference. the sway bar grounding out on something with a broken end link on one side could cause vibration
The 6 mounts can always be worn or installed in a way they are a ground out too. Same with engine/trans mounts. they need to be centered in brackets and not binding or touching metal to metal other than the bolt /stud
