Rear track bar replacement?

[rrlucas]

I have a '93 Buick Century, 3.3L V6 (unsure of the specific trim, there are no labels). My muffler just went, and while I was under there looking at it, I noticed my Track Bar on the rear "axle" was bent AND cracked (not in the same spot, but within an inch or two).

Now, for the last 4+ years or so, I've had to replace at least one rear wheel bearing every year. Could the track bar being bent cause this? I actually had the car into the shop to have the muffler looked at, and they didn't catch it all... even had someone inspect it and they didn't notice it was bent (this was before I knew it was). The track bar is original to the car, and is quite rusted. Car has under 135k Miles on it.

I've been googling the heck out of track bars, and only see results for jeeps and 4x4 trucks. Nothing for cars, let alone buicks.

Is this something I can replace myself? From my understanding, you don't jack up the car to make the replacement, as you want the car suspension to be at its ride height. Do I need an alignment after the rear track bar is replaced? It looks like it is simple... just undo one bolt on each end, take off the old one, put up the new one and bolt it on. (I know "simple" does not imply "easy").

My guess as to WHY the track bar is bent would either be because the car was rear-ended/totaled on the back driver's side corner in 2004 ... or because I tend to Occasionally, but often, take corners fast like it is a sport's car (15mph-rated curves at 35-40mph, while staying in my lane). I've SLAMMED into curbs twice (total) during winter, which resulted in a bent steel wheel each time, but no other damage and didn't throw off the alignment (it's never had an alignment... was told by the shop it doesn't need one unless the tires show unusual wear, which they don't). But, that was the front that hit, not the rear.

Quick help would be appreciated. It's my DD, and I don't have a backup (anymore). It sounded like the track bar broke this morning while I was turning at an intersection, and went over a bump during the turn (not very fast). Then heard metal hit the ground briefly. Rear end seemed to sway after that... but I still have to get home somehow.
As always: Thanks, I appreciate it!

 

[regalgs04ja]

By track bar are you referring to the trailing arm? They bend up quite easily in a rearender. Easy to replace the round bar going from the axle also likes to bend. And yes it could case a rear bearing to go. An alignment after would be good, but not necessary.

 

[rrlucas]

No, I mean a Track Bar.

Attached is a photo of it. Circled in red is where it is cracked, and it is bent just to the left of it. (I intended to upload these photos earlier. Sorry about that.)

Update: The bar broke on Wednesday 9/7/11. Oddly enough, it didn't break where it was bent or where it was cracked. It broke someplace closer to the wheel (I think the muffler blocked me from seeing any damage to it over there).

Due to that... I'm actually taking it into the shop this morning to get repaired. Parts had to be ordered for it (none available locally - small town), so had to wait 'till today to get it fixed. The city decided to do construction right in front of my house, blocking my house off, so I'm now unable to do the work myself 🙁

 

[regalgs04ja]

I see what you are saying. The 93 uses a different setup than the 97-04. I would say anything broken back there needs to be replaced. Not sure on the alignment on those era cars. There might not be anything to adjust back there.

 

[scooter_b]

It took me 4 hours just to remove the track bar from my Century on one end! The nut came off easily enough but the bolt was rusted to the steel bushing sitting inside the rubber bushing. Ended up being able to get an angle grinder in there to cut off the bolt. Welcome to the rust belt I guess...

One of the reasons it took so long is because I didn't want to replace the track bar. I only needed to remove it so I could get the rear axle off. Since you are going to have to replace it anyway I would suggest just grinding it off with an angle grinder if your bolts are stuck. Rockauto has them from $31 to $41.

The Haynes manual says the following:

• To install, place the left end of the track bar in the body mount and loosely install the nut and bolt. The open side of the bar must face to the rear.
• Place the other end of the bar in the axle mount and loosely install the bolt and nut. Both nuts must face the rear of the car.*
• Raise the rear axle to simulate normal ride height.
• Tighten bolt at the axle to 50 ft-lbs, and tighten the nut at the upper bracket to 38 ft-lbs then lower the vehicle to the ground.

What is somewhat bizarre, the picture in the Haynes manual shows the track bar attaching to the axle on the passenger side instead of the drivers side.

*The nut faces forward on the side where the bar attaches to the axle on my car. There is no way that the bolt can slide in the other way around.

 

[zachww1014]

is the part in question here the same as a Left Forward Rear Lower Control Arm? or one of the 4 control arms in the rear assembly? thats what busted on my 94 Regal, took me forever to find out what it was and to find a replacement which i got thru Hurd 'Vintage Parts' for $115. There are 4 of them that go side-to-side, 2 on each side of the leaf spring(?), and it was a real pain to remove the broken one had to drop the whole assembly, Struts, a cpl other things, and then it wouldn't drop low enough to clear the gas tank so i could get a socket on the head of the bolt to turn the nut on the other end, i used a crowbar to push the whole assembly far just enough to WEDGE a ratchet and socket on the bolt head, and the nut is in an even more difficult spot i cant possibly describe in few words, you can only unscrew it so far before it goes behind the leaf spring then had to sneak needlenose pliers inthere and turn like a mm at a time, took me daysss

 

[zachww1014]

Is the part in question the same as my Left Forward Rear Lower Control Arm? or one of the 4 arms in that assembly? thats what busted on my 94 Regal, took me forever to find out what it was and i was able to get one thru Hurd 'Vintage Parts' for $115. it was such a pain to get the broken one off too i had to drop the whole assembly (theres 4 arms that goo side-to-side in the rear, 2 on each side of the leaf spring[?]) the bolt head is recessed in a bracket right up against the gas tank, and a nut on the other side inside a frame that the leaf spring is in (long flat thing goes side-to-side in the rear must be a leaf spring?). i dropped the whole assembly, struts, and a cpl other things and it still wouldn't drop low enough to clear the gas tank so i could get a socket on the bolt head, i ended up using a crow bar and prying the assembly to the side just enough to WEDGE a ratchet and socket on the bolt head, then theres just enough room between the leaf spring and its frame to fit an open-end wrench on the nut, but once it get so loose it starts going behind/above the leave spring, i had to sneak needlenose pliers in there and managed to turn the nut like a mm at a time before i could get it off and finger it out from above where theres only a very small opening in the top of the frame the leaf spring is in, then had to pry assembly back again to get the ratchet out and pull out the bolt it took DAYSSS.

Now if the part i went thru all that to remove is also called a track bar, then i wayy overpaid because theres one on Carid.com for like $20.
(im new to all this but trying to learn and i love my 94 regal and want to keep it running). Now waiting for the new part to come in, my next concern is this is one of 4 just like it in that assembly, all equally rusted, i don't know that another isn't going to bust the day i get it back on the road