Rear Wheel Bearing Service Bulletin

[MikeMacie]

So my rear wheel bearing is starting to go on my 2013 GS (30k miles). While looking around I noticed that GM finally has a service bulletin posted for this issue. They want you to install a dust shield when installing the new bearing. I didn't see it posted here so I thought I would share.

Wheel Bearing P/N:
13589507

Left Dust Shield P/N
23203995

Right Dust Shield P/N
23203996

 

[sweetness34]

I had a left go at 54k, right go at 78k and I think my left went out again last week😡. Do you know the TSB #?

 

[EnderWiggin]

Have a number for the TSB?
Edit: noticed someone else asked the same thing. I don't have the issue yet that I can tell though.

 

[Everyshadeofblue]

Dumb question - how do you know your rear wheel bearing is going out?

 

[jwmuscat]

Noise that can get worse as you turn (weight shifts) and if you leave it too long I think it throws an abs issue code

 

[Walt G]

Sub $3 each. Might be worth putting on. Thanks for sharing this.

 

[EnderWiggin]

Sub $3 each. Might be worth putting on. Thanks for sharing this.

Wonder if these are worth doing on bearings that aren't bad yet?

 

[sweetness34]

So I went to go order the bearing and the two shields and it looks like there has been another part number change on the bearing. Anyone know what the difference is?

Looks like originally it was PN 13580687 which was then replaced by 13589507 and is now being replaced by 13580135.

 

[Handy_Andy]

FYI for those asking it's TSB #16-NA-348, and the dust shields are PN's 23203995 (L) and 23203996 (R).

 

[noebui]

I am getting the dreaded drone coming from the rear of my car again that I'm all too familiar with. I'm hoping its the driver's side wheel bearing this time, because I literally replaced the passenger side (for the 2nd time) about 5,500 miles ago. My car has just over 70k miles on it. I'm glad they've finally come out with a bulletin, but the only info I can find on the above number references 2013-2014 Regals only. Mine is a 2012. The last replacement I did, I used the SKF BR930777 (aftermarket) because I only got ~35k out of the first AC Delco, and ~30k out of the second. I figured I had nothing to lose at that point. Luckily I purchased a second SKF a couple months ago because I knew the driver's side would eventually go out. This is the most annoying car problem I've ever had in my life.

 

[MikeMacie]

I am getting the dreaded drone coming from the rear of my car again that I'm all too familiar with. I'm hoping its the driver's side wheel bearing this time, because I literally replaced the passenger side (for the 2nd time) about 5,500 miles ago. My car has just over 70k miles on it. I'm glad they've finally come out with a bulletin, but the only info I can find on the above number references 2013-2014 Regals only. Mine is a 2012. The last replacement I did, I used the SKF BR930777 (aftermarket) because I only got ~35k out of the first AC Delco, and ~30k out of the second. I figured I had nothing to lose at that point. Luckily I purchased a second SKF a couple months ago because I knew the driver's side would eventually go out. This is the most annoying car problem I've ever had in my life.

I would get the dust shields since they are $2-3 each. The 2012 bearing replacement procedure states to remove the dust shields if equipped so I assume they are the same.

I just replaced my bearing and installed it with the shield. It's just a stamped piece of metal and there's still some open space around it so crap can still get in. Hopefully its good enough protection for it to last the life of the vehicle.

Also the bolts for the bearing and upper control arm are torque angle to yield so they should be replaced. I'll try to update my original post with those p/n's and torque spec.

 

[sweetness34]

Finally got my new bearing and shields in the mail. Like MikeMacie said, they're stamped and still have a gap around them so I'm sure crap will get in there but for $3 I figured what the heck.

I took a few pictures of the plate held up with just the bolts before I put it all back together.




You can see the red jack between the plate and the ID

 

[kgoebz]

Had my right rear bearing go at 36k (like 22k miles). I'm sure the other one will go soon. Oh well is what it is. Cars been solid otherwise lol

 

[TurboLover]

I replaced my driver's side rear around 60K. Does the service bulletin mean they are covering cost? On another note, my wife is getting the same in her Verano Turbo at around 70K. Does the Verano use the same bearing?

 

[Handy_Andy]

The bearing replacement is only covered under the standard warranty period as far as I know, and the bulletin is only an "FYI" to the dealer that they need to add the extra deflectors. It's written as an "Information" bulletin rather than a recall or extension of the standard warranty period. It's odd that the bulletin is only written for 2013 and 2014 Regals, because the other years use the same part, but that's likely just based on some threshold of warranty data needing to be met.

The Verano doesn't use the same bearing Part Number, but it's likely a similar design. On the Regal the exact same bearing/hub assembly is used on the front and the rear, but the premature failures are only on the rear. The reasoning behind this is the driveshafts in the front "protect" the back of the bearing somewhat, while the rear of a FWD is wide open, and lets in a lot of dirt and debris. That's likely the same case with the Verano.

It is a bit odd that the deflectors leave open space around the edges, but I'm guessing the design is done this way to try and mimic the coverage of the driveshafts on the front (since the issue isn't present there). You also have to leave some room for water/debris to get back out from behind the deflector, unless they also came out with something that would seal the unit from the front of the hub, which would be more complicated. Rather than re-inventing the wheel (bearing) and creating something a lot more complicated and costly that seals the hub from both sides, they likely saw the contrast between front and rear with the same bearing PN and just decided to go with similar coverage on the rear deflectors.

 

[CincySpeedRacer]

I went ahead and had the dust covers installed by the dealer this week. I had one bearing go bad while under warranty last year. Car just turned 5 years, and has 49k miles. Covers were $3.50 each, and labor was about an hour. I'm obviously hoping this preventative maintenance will work, but suspect the other original rear wheel bearing will need replacing in the next couple of years. Will post an update if that occurs.

 

[Jm62383]

I had my passenger rear bearing replaced around 40k under B2B warranty on my 11 regal and just did my rear driver at about 72K. The passenger rear just made the traditional "humming" when it went out but the driver started kicking out wheel speed sensor errors and disabled my ABS. Ill try these dust covers when these set of bearing fail lol.

 

[Eggsbenny86]

I would get the dust shields since they are $2-3 each. The 2012 bearing replacement procedure states to remove the dust shields if equipped so I assume they are the same.

I just replaced my bearing and installed it with the shield. It's just a stamped piece of metal and there's still some open space around it so crap can still get in. Hopefully its good enough protection for it to last the life of the vehicle.

Also the bolts for the bearing and upper control arm are torque angle to yield so they should be replaced. I'll try to update my original post with those p/n's and torque spec.

Hey,

Reviving an old post but, wondering if you found the part numbers for those TTY bolts?

 

[CLE12GS]

I have a sheet of Stainless Steel, I think I'll make the plate that covers the entire opening with no gaps, to keep out dust, debris, and Snow/Salt.
Looks like there's nothing too it..

 

[Eggsbenny86]

Finally got to attempt doing putting in the new hub assemblies.

Getting to the point of removing the old hub is fairly easy. Removed the brake caliper and pad bracket in one piece, removed the rotor, unbolted the upper control arm (jack suspension up to make it easier and mitigate the control arm from springing up at your face), removed the ABS sensor (one screw) and unclipped the speed sensor plug.

That's where the trouble began...

The hub assembly was rusted to the knuckle so bad, after about 30 minutes of hammering on it, I had to take it to a shop where they put it on a hoist and took a torch to it to finally get it out. Took the mechanic about 30 minutes of heating and hammering to get the left rear to pop off. The right rear took about 10 minutes to come off.

Installation was super easy. Went to town on the anti-seize in the event they need to be done again.

TIP: If you suspect yours will be this difficult to remove, order new brake dust shields. They will get beat up pretty bad in the process of hammering / heating. Just makes it easier if you know you can destroy them... we had to hammer around them to preserve.

I put the hub shields on too, which is a no brainer if your car didn't come with them like mine.