Strong Coolant leak. Regal LS 97

Another question: is it OK to drive car for 30sec-1min without alternator belt and alternator removed as well?
Need to get car front on rails somehow, so that I could get to coolant bleed valve.
Thank you
 
people replace just the pulley keeping old tensioner. Is it possible for this car?
Yes, just remove the left-hand threaded bolt from the center of the pulley. To loosen the bolt, turn it clockwise.

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Another question: is it OK to drive car for 30sec-1min without alternator belt and alternator removed as well?
Need to get car front on rails somehow, so that I could get to coolant bleed valve.
Thank you
That should be OK.
 
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I would not risk using the worn pulley for another year. The smooth top pulley is usually less than $20.00. That is cheap insurance against failure.

Thank you! already got carquest pulley by Dayco from advanced auto.
I keep adding you reps as the site allows🙂
I am close to start putting things back.
Questions for reloading coolant procedure (I drained it mostly, did it 1 year ago but forgot already how):
1) Should the engine be running during coolant reload?
2) should I poor it into yellow coolant expansion box (on the drive's side) or to the round container with aluminum cover that says smth like 'HOT. Do not open' (from passenger side, at the front)
 
Thank you.
Installed new pulley and it also wabbles the same way as my old one. Though for both pulleys the wabble is minor. I think I overestimated it above: probably the total distance of wabble between very left and very right position of pulley boundary is about 1mm. Have caliper, but have no idea how to measure wabble exactly.
Even put my old pulley back to double check and couldn't see the difference in wabble.
I applied WD40 to the bolt and internal threads to make sure it doesn't stuck. Also cleaned surface on tensioner.
The only reason I can think is that the internal diameter of puller is slightly (by 1-2mm ) larger than the diameter of cylinder on tensioner it goes on. May be apply thin tape (like air/water leak stopping tape) on cylinder?
Could it be that the pulley I got from Advanced auto is poor quality?
Got this one http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/carquest-by-dayco-idler-pulley-89007/3911411-P
Or is minor wabble just normal?
 
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May be apply thin tape (like air/water leak stopping tape) on cylinder?
No, that is not the solution!
Could it be that the pulley I got from Advanced auto is poor quality?
Got this one http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/c...9007/3911411-P
Or is minor wabble just normal?
Most all of them are made in a foreign country, so yes the quality may not be up to par with the original. Have you seen any wear on the mounting bolt?
 
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No, that is not the solution!
Most all of them are made in a foreign country, so yes the quality may not be up to par with the original. Have you seen any wear on the mounting bolt?

Haven't seen an obvious damage on mounting bolt yet. Shall I look for damage on threads or check somehow if the bolt is straight?
Shall I post photos?
If I new part # I would just order a new mounting bolt. Local stores are usually useless for such small parts.
It was very hard to unscrew it the 1st time, took me over an hour with WD40 and hammer, possibly cause I only have pretty short tool for 15mm.
 
Tried cleaning mounting bolt from the puller side so that its almost shining now, wabble is still the same.
The bolt has lots of scratches, but even if bolt is the issue I couldn't find just the bolt on rockauto. Don't see what I can do.
I think I will order DORMAN 419105 belt tensioner from rockauto, which is the cheapest there for my car (economy class).
Do you know anything good/bad about it?
 
I also do not see the bolt/stud offered separately anywhere that is still available. It sounds like the inter-race of the bearing has spun on the mounting stud and caused wear. That may be where the play is coming from, but as have you previously mentioned, such a small amount of wear should not be a big concern, unless you have belt wobble, or squeal @ idle. If you have either, replace the whole assembly. I have not experienced, nor heard anything bad about the Dorman tensioner replacement. I am sure it will last the duration of the expected time frame you plan to keep the car.
Look at Item # 13 in the diagram, which is NLA: http://www.wholesalegmpartsonline.c...1997&ukey_category=19395&ukey_trimLevel=15042
 
I believe there was squeal from belt (don't remember if it was at idle). Lots of coolant was dropping on belt, it could be caused by coolant on belt, right?
I'm afraid to assemble everything and check what happens with belt, cause draining/refilling coolant causes lots of mess and I might get troubles from my landlord
 
Thank for your reply!
If I buy new tensioner, do I need to adjust tension on it?
On rockauto it offers some tensioner adjustment tool when I add tensioner to the cart.
The tensioner is self adjusting if using the proper/NEW belt size. If the belt is stretched, or had coolant soak, it should be replaced also!
 
I believe there was squeal from belt (don't remember if it was at idle). Lots of coolant was dropping on belt, it could be caused by coolant on belt, right?
Coolant leaks on the belt can cause a squealing noise, in addition to premature stretching, wear and failure.
 
The tensioner is self adjusting if using the proper/NEW belt size. If the belt is stretched, or had coolant soak, it should be replaced also!

Thank you. I washed the belt in water and carefully inspected the belt and installed it yesterday, it looked perfect. I replaced it about 5K miles ago (Dayco).
How to check if is stretched?
Or do you believe it must be replaced anyway since there was coolant on it? If so, can I drive on the current belt say 100-200 miles till new belt from rockauto arrives?
There was lots of coolant dropping on belt recently.
 
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Forgot to say, I've replaced the pulley to another one and now the wabble is barely noticeable. Therefore I assembled everything back including the old belt. Only coolant is missing for now.
 
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