transmission not shifting into overdrive

1jonathan1994

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Buick Ownership
2001 LeSabre custom
I have a 2001 LeSabre that wont go into overdrive anymore.
NOTE. ALL ABS SENSORS WIRES HAVE BEEN CUT. not by me..
Definitely have evap troubles i dont care to fix so I get codes about that.
Put the car on a good machine and it shows a P1575 code which the machine shows is a Extended travel brake switch circuit code. Im sure the brake sending a false signal would prevent the car from shifting into OD for obvious reasons, but when I do a check the brake pedal activates the:
TCC brake pedal switch works properly at the top of the pedal push
Extended Travel Brake Pedal Switch works properly at the middle/bottom of the brake push.
Computer shows the car should be in 4th when its mechanically not.

So other places online say the P1575 code is something Evap related and Im confused there.
Also P0446, P0113, and P0502 codes. I did forget to plug up the air sensor after a filter change one time so there that code.

THe inputs and outputs of 1,2,3,D in both the dash and transmission test correctly on the computer screen.

Driving the car in diagnostic shows the car as shifting into 4, but tachometer and ratio says not.
Solenoids move each time
first is 1-2 on, 3-4 on
second is 1-2 off, 3-4 on
third is both off
fourth is 1-2 on, 3-4 off
Shift screen show 2 and 3 shifts happen fast with minimal error.
4 shift screen shows NO shift time, but a shift error time comparable to the other shifts.
Line pressure does seem to drop when computer forced into 4th when sitting in park, but still matches what the computer requests as a reference.

Honestly I dont know what is supposed to trigger overdrive and the TCC. Manually switching the car with the computer while in park i can hear something happen from 3 to 4, but even manually COMPUTER switching from 3 to 4 going down the road the rpm's still say its in 3rd the the computer registers 4th. I have no idea how this shift pattern is supposed to work with just 2 solenoids so what other things are in play?

Cruise still works until I push the brakes. In D, the coast unlocks. if while coasting you shift it into 3 then the coast stops and rpms go back up as it locks into 3.

Torque converter seems locked when in 3rd no problem.

One diagnostic screen shows the transmission in OVERTEMP mode, another does not.
I tried the computer forcing OVERTEMP off on that one screen and the car drove no different.
Transmission temperature sensor always shows several dozen degrees colder than ambient.
Transmission fluid temperature sensor hovers under 200F going down the road, but starts out ambient and climbs at an expected rate.

TPS works fine and linear.
motor purrs like a kitten and returns great gas mileage otherwise.
 
 
That's going to be it.
I can't find this shaft on rock auto.
Where do I get one? Hardened splines of course.

If I swap this is the rest of the transmission ok or am I looking at a complete rebuild due to metal from the splines?
I did a fluid change 10k miles ago and everything looked immaculate with only minor metal powder on the magnet.
Since then has been lots of hilly interstate travel which would be hard on 4th shaft splines.
Car has 110k miles with 20k as a mail car.
 
That's going to be it.
I can't find this shaft on rock auto.
Where do I get one? Hardened splines of course.

If I swap this is the rest of the transmission ok or am I looking at a complete rebuild due to metal from the splines?
I did a fluid change 10k miles ago and everything looked immaculate with only minor metal powder on the magnet.
Since then has been lots of hilly interstate travel which would be hard on 4th shaft splines.
Car has 110k miles with 20k as a mail car.
 
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The filter/magnet should trap all the raped splines, and you may get by for awhile with a partial hardened shaft repair, but with that many miles, why would you even want to risk not doing a complete rebuild of all the other internal components to survive for another 100K? I should also mention that the fluid change/filter would make no difference in this particular failure.
 
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The filter/magnet should trap all the raped splines, and you may get by for awhile with a partial hardened shaft repair, but with that many miles, why would you even want to risk not doing a complete rebuild of all the other internal components to survive for another 100K? I should also mention that the fluid change/filter would make no difference in this particular failure.
I only paid $1600 for the car and have just over$2000 in it. Don't want to sink a lot of money in it.
If a shop will swap the shaft for $300 or so I'll go for it. I'm sure a complete rebuild will be about a grand or more.
I could eventually do the shaft myself but a complete rebuild is more than I should tackle.
 
I looked to see what the recycling yards listed as compatible transmissions from other years for that car.
They seem to list ONLY 2001 years as used replacements: no getting 2003 or newer and putting it in that
has the 4th gear shaft from the factory that was hardened.

I see there are two gear ratios, F83 or FQ3 on the RPO label--3.05 and 2.86 for that year. I assume the one is supercharged?

When I read the first post I was going to suggest the 4th gear spline problem and hesitated before doing it. When I came back I was glad to Z28 had linked to a post about it. I was hesitating to throw out something on a guess from reading lots of Bonneville forums when I had leSabres. But that was one thing I could see the computer not being able to sense was occurring.

The Bonneville folks had posted a few times about that problem back before 2014, and I was glad my leSabre was a 2003 with the improved shaft in it.

Good luck to 1jonathan1994 to finding a replacement trans or fixing his own that fits his needs.

One thing I'd do it talk to a good repair shop about what options you might have for substitution, even if not directly listed by car-part.com as an option, but that repair shops do where they make the newer trans fit.
 
update
Swapped the shaft myself and it was a horrible mess. My garage is permanently stained and I might need counseling.
But
It's done. Have about 100 miles on the repair with no issues. 10 k mile fluid still looked good. No metal shavings in the pan, just fine metallic dust on the magnet.

Note... these transmissions will eventually drain all the fluid including the torque converter and cooler if you just leave for Christmas vacation and leave only a thin catch pan under it.

Major tip.
Jack the driver side of the car up very high so that when you drop the driver side subframe the transmission will be level and you won't have to use grease to hold everything in place.

Also, most of the 20 year old plastic electrical clips in the transmission break no matter how careful you are.
Oil resistant zip ties and superglue to the rescue. Should
 
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2500 miles and overdrive is fine, but I faintly detected a few hard 3 to 4 shifts on the last road trip.
I'm not going back in there lol.
 
Yikes, hope this wasn't an issue on the 4T60. Perhaps one should keep it in third gear unless on the highway?
 
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