Understanding/Diagnosing the PASS-Key System

[trlbzrss]

Not to happy about this system not being a car guy and comfortable ripping apart the steering column I'm going to have either a) pay for the dealer to cut me a second key, I'm probably going to raped on the price or b) buy one the override systems I've seen and pay for a mechanic to install it.

This so far is only drawback I've seen on my new (96) Regal well this and the dynaride. I just got rid of a Town car with dropped air shocks.

I bought a VATS key from Ebay and had the local locksmith cut the new key for about $30.00 for my 96 Regal.

 

[GmMan]

Some excellent info here. Just fixed mine. Two resistors 2200 and 1500 made 679 ohms. Good to go. My orange harness did not have a black connector. It just ran into a large connector with a screw in the middle. I unscrewed it for easier access.

Thank you very much Goldmaster!!!!

 

[MrBuick (Magnum)]

I finally checked one of my keys, and came up with 3.0 (k) resistance. Now if only the retards around here knew how to cut a key right...

Holy crap... I wonder if this is the one I lost!!! I tested all my other keys, and the only one that came up with 3.0k(Blank #9) is from my Parts Roadmaster. For the longest time, I didn't even know I had a key for the Parts Roadmaster. So I'm doubting I would have had that one around to test it. March 2009... I'm pretty sure that's about when I was forced to get Jesus out of storage. I only had one key to Jesus, and that's the one I can't find.

Did I just luck out? I guess I will have to swap the lock cylinder in from my Parts Roadmaster, and find out.

 

[phastlo5]

I'm having some issues with the pass key system in my wagon. It's a '95 caprice, don't hate me, I know it's a buick fourm, lol...anyways, my pass key fault light is staying on. I went to leave work yesterday, and the car wouldn't crank at all, but the light was flashing. After a couple hours, the car started and I was able to make it home.

I've been reading up on this bypass, and have the resistors which are equivalent to my key all ready to go. Before I went to splicing anything, I figgured I'd do a ghetto diagnostic to make sure I was dealing with the correct wires. I disconnected the ones pictured (purple/white, black/white and the two white ones). I tried to start the car, and it fired right up. Does this mean I have a different issue, or is this normal for the car to be able to run with the pass key circut open?

 

[TheMasterPing]

Regarding Phastlo5:

well, 1. it really sounds like a "dirty/faulty connection at the key so the resistor doesnt read right some of the time" so the bypass is probably the *easiest* thing to do. 2. I cant confirm the colors ATM of the wires, but you're looking at the ones that come from the column in an orange sheath (two white wires in an orange sheath) and tracing those to the plug, right? you may have just disconnected something else and by chance the key made a good connection when you tested it.

I'm pretty sure the two white wires in an orange sheath is pretty standard, not 100% sure though.

It's not normal for pass-key to operate with the circuit open, though part of some types of bypasses include some sequence of having the key in the ignition and disabling pass-key at the same time making the light come on and the car run as well, i doubt you accidentally did this though. One of the wires simply goes up to the key, passes through the resistor in the key, and comes down in the other wire. If you unplug it, it's *by design* not supposed to start.

-Ping

 

[phastlo5]

Yes, the two white wires in the orange sheath are indeed the ones I disconnected. I disconnected the wires when the key was in the ignition. Then I tried to start the car. I have plenty of experience with b-bodies, and this is a first for me....

 

[TheMasterPing]

Well, if you are indeed in this test mode or whatever by having the key in the ignition at the right time, unplugging the battery for a few seconds should reset it and you should no longer be able to start the car with the circuit disconnected. Up to you if you want to do that just to see what happens, but i think it would narrow the possibilities.

Have you had a chance to put the resistor in the circuit yet to see if the light goes away?

If it's in this test mode which is allowing it to start, it would seem to me that the passkey module is functioning properly and it was just a bad connection at the key.

-Ping

 

[phastlo5]

Earlier today, I did disconnect the battery to see what would happen. I let it set for a few minutes, then re-connected. The passkey was still unplugged and the car still fired right up. I haven't tried to put the resistor in the circut yet since this has been happening and I'm a bit stumpped as to why this car runs every time while the system is unplugged?

 

[TheMasterPing]

Good question for sure. I take it the passkey light still blinks and stays on when the car starts?

Could be someone else had the same idea i did (before you got the car), and bypassed the system further up the wire in the dash to throw thieves off, but that wouldnt explain the passkey light staying on and the car still starting.

 

[phastlo5]

The light no longer blinks, but does stay on all the time. I doubt the previous owner altered anything. This just started happening within the last 3 weeks and has progressively gotten worse. I'm half tempted just to drive it 'till something completely fails, but the other rational side of me say's that's the price of a tow bill that could go to the actual repair.

EDIT: Well, I have went ahead and spliced the resistors into the purple/white and black/white wires using splicless connectors, so if it didn't work out, all I would have to do is cut my splice and the original connection is still in tact. I did this, and the car fired right up as usual. I let it run for a minute, and just as the FSM said, the light went out. I turned the car off and on a few times, and the light is staying off.....so far, so good!

 

[TheMasterPing]

So basically, in your car before your resistor bypass - if a thief were to break the ignition cylinder to star the car the theft derrent system would give him a blinking light that says "hey! dont steal me!" then start right up......awesome. Glad everything worked out :-D

 

[phastlo5]

When the light was blinking, it wouldn't start. But if the light was on, but not blinking, yea, what you said....nice, lol....

 

[ChainDraggone]

Good Day Buick Masters,

I think this post is interesting and glad I found it.
I have a 96 Regal 3.8 Supercharged that had the antenna mast relay short out and this killed the battery.
I grabbed my gen set to charge the battery but I think it was full fielded when I started the gen set and also sent a 16+ charge into the battery (I did not disconnect the bat cables ) and cooked the TDM. I have replaced the module with another unit ( not a new one) and have gone through the steps posted in early posts.

I still have the security light that will go out after 10 minutes the learned portion still will not start car. This is after many times of trying the recomended procedures

Also I have checked every fuses multiple times but the scanner port (ADL) will not power up and/or communicate with scanner.

I do not have any door lock functions on key fob so I believe it is in theft security mode still.

Any help or Ideas would be greatly appreciated.

Draggone

 

[buickwagon]

First off, understand that this is the Roadmaster forum, not the Regal forum. However, I believe the PassKey systems are identical.

I have replaced the module with another unit ( not a new one)

Ok, well there's the first problem. The module will memorize the resistance of the first key inserted into it. Forever. It can never be changed again, by any procedure. So there is a 1 in 15 chance that your existing key will work with your used module.

You need 15 resistors, one of each of the following value, +/- 3%:

402
523
681
887
1130
1470
1870
2370
3010
3740
4750
6040
7500
9530
11800

Now, disconnect the PassKey connector under the dash. Connect your first resistor to the body harness (male) side of the connector. A couple of alligator clip test leads may be helpful for this. Turn the key. If the engine cranks, congratulations, you now know the required resistance. Personally, I would wire that resistor in there permanently, but otherwise, now you can get new keys cut with the appropriate resistor pellet. If the security light is tripped and the engine won't crank: "Sorry, try again". After shutting the key off and waiting 4 minutes, of course.

The theft deterrent module has nothing to do with the door locks or the diagnostic connector -- sorry, but you fried some other stuff too. Which probably took more than 16 volts to do. The dead diagnostic connector likely means you fried the PCM too.

 

[G-737630]

no security light,will car not run fellas 95 Buick roadmaster lt1