engine stalls while driving! help

IF you have checked all the negative & positive connections - at both ends! And if the problem is persisting, there are a few things to keep in mind. The first is thermal expansion & the second is polyester resin. Why? Because When things warm up they expand but contract when cooled off. You could have a bad ignition coil but it may bench test fine (when it's cool) but still have a hairline crack in the middle of the thing where you cant see it, but after it is mounted on the engine & it comes up to normal temp, the crack can expand, causing a break in the internal coil wire winding - which is encased in polyester resin. The same problem can affect a crank, cam or knock sensor as well.

Now - IF it runs fine when cool, then peters out after warming up & starts up rough or not at all, as if it ACTS over heated when it is not, the issues is typically the EGR valve. The later model EGR units are solenoid controlled & the coil winding for those are also likely to be encased in resin & may have a crack you cant see then may also be affected by the same issue I mentioned above. In older units that have vacuum controlled EGR's, there is a carbon build up that caused the internal piston of the unit to get stuck. For that issue, you need to remove it, hit it a few good times with penetrating oil, then smack the protruding rod against a hard surface CAREFULLY & straight a few times, then blow it out with compressed air & repeat these steps a few times if needed, then re-install with a new gasket.

I hope this helps.
 
My 95 Riviera is doing almost the exact same thing! Except now it dies right after I fire it up. And I've tried everything and my mechanic is stumped. New ignition module, new crank sensor, new fuel pump and new fuel filter. Every time it dies the fuel pump is running non stop though.
 
My 95 Riviera is doing almost the exact same thing! Except now it dies right after I fire it up. And I've tried everything and my mechanic is stumped. New ignition module, new crank sensor, new fuel pump and new fuel filter. Every time it dies the fuel pump is running non stop though.

Ignition switch. Jiggle the switch when it runs. See if you can make it happen.
 
Ignition switch. Jiggle the switch when it runs. See if you can make it happen.

I would do that if I could get it to run. It literally dies right after it fires up, if I get in the gas right when it fires up, it will sort of stay on but the Rpms spike everywhere and even while in the gas it sometimes dies. There's been a couple of times that it has just died while driving down the road, before this happened. It's starting to be a real headache.
 
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I would do that if I could get it to run. It literally dies right after it fires up, if I get in the gas right when it fires up, it will sort of stay on but the Rpms spike everywhere and even while in the gas it sometimes dies. There's been a couple of times that it has just died while driving down the road, before this happened. It's starting to be a real headache.

Did you do any engine work? Sounds like a fuel problem. Your engine is starved for fuel.
 
You know, I had a very similar problem with my N/A 95 Riviera series 2 engine. I would be driving along and then BAM the engine would just quit, just like someone had turned off the key. I would shift into neutral and it would start right up while I was still rolling. Sometimes this would happen 5 or 6 times in a few miles distance. There were times though when it would go several weeks with no problems what so ever. There seemed to be no pattern. Sometimes when just slowing down for a stop sign, sometimes when going around a corner, sometimes when going hiway speeds. It was driving me crazy! It would not show any codes at all. I replaced the fuel pressure regulator.....The fuel pump.... the I A C motor. Everything I replaced seemed to work for a while, the it was back to the stalling.

Somewhere on one of these forums I came across a posting from a guy who had been dealing with the same thing for over a year. He had replaced the PCM (powertrain control module) and claimed that it fixed his problem. I took my Rivi to a longtime family mechanic. He replaced the PCM in my car.... and I have not had any problems since. Hope this might give you some insight.
 
hi
my 95 riv did that an i tried everything/no code finally changed the ecm located behind the glove box an now has been fine for over a year/makes since because that is the control that generates the codes
 
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same problem happened to my 98 buick regal 3 days ago, never happened for the last 4 years of 80,000 kms driving, now have 266,000 km on it. I checked EGR valve, cleaned it very good, it could got stuck open very easy because carbon deposit(I replaced thermostat 5 days ago, cus old one stuck open, engine running low temp, more carbon deposit).

no recurrent problem the fourth day! counting!
 
Hey Bill, I had similar in my 93Riv. I changed out the connector to the ignition control module. The wires were pulling out of it. It's a fairly easy fix and cost about $20.
Checks yours out and see if you can see any bare wires.
Gary T.
 
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