Sputtering and Stuttering at Idle

I talked to my district zone repo who has been driving a manual 2012 GS and said his does it, I asked him if it was only when cold and he said most of the time but he has had it happen after a few hours of driving. He had no further insight to what it may be, he said at around 11,000 miles it stopped so he kind of forgot about it.

As to the fuel comment, I have experienced this with 93 octane and I only use shell and mobile so I am not confident fuel quality plays a part but it could be. I have been wrong before
 
My GS has never stalled out, but what it has been doing as of recent is feel like there is a slight hesitation sometimes. It acts like it's starving for fuel. But it's not bad.
 
Mine has the stumble when its warm. THe one redlight is right off the expressway, so thats about 12-14 miles of driving. Its not just a cold engine in my experience. I use nothing buy synthetic and change out around 50% oil life left.
 
I know this has been discussed before, but why are these cars so inconsistent? I mean some days the car drives like butter. All shifts are smooth and nice. Some days it seems like the car doesn't want to rev match so shifting sucks. Or it can be the latter, and then you park the car, go into a store for a half hour, and come out and the car drives perfect. I don't get it.
 
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The scary part is the technical inconsistency. This issue has been on going for ages. Myself, and two friends have 2011 CXL regals. All had the same problem. My friend Bart had his in 9 times before settling a lemon law dispute. Myself and my other friend took ours to the dealer in Troy, Michigan and told them the stutter/rough idle, and stall out at times upon acceleration. They said 'we'll take care of that' and both the R.O. say

Open in Actuators
J0822 .5 .4 OLH TO REPROGRAM
CAMSHAFT POSITION ACTUATOR SOLENOID VALVE REPLACEMENT.

Then it lists two valves replaced.

The thing has ran better than it did on day one. It got really bad for all off us a different times, but in the 8k-12k mile range. My repair was done 6.9.2012. Hope this may help others.
 
Open in Actuators
J0822 .5 .4 OLH TO REPROGRAM
CAMSHAFT POSITION ACTUATOR SOLENOID VALVE REPLACEMENT.

Then it lists two valves replaced.

The thing has ran better than it did on day one. It got really bad for all off us a different times, but in the 8k-12k mile range. My repair was done 6.9.2012. Hope this may help others.

Just to confirm: The problem went away completely after the repair?
 
The scary part is the technical inconsistency. This issue has been on going for ages. Myself, and two friends have 2011 CXL regals. All had the same problem. My friend Bart had his in 9 times before settling a lemon law dispute. Myself and my other friend took ours to the dealer in Troy, Michigan and told them the stutter/rough idle, and stall out at times upon acceleration. They said 'we'll take care of that' and both the R.O. say

Open in Actuators
J0822 .5 .4 OLH TO REPROGRAM
CAMSHAFT POSITION ACTUATOR SOLENOID VALVE REPLACEMENT.

Then it lists two valves replaced.

The thing has ran better than it did on day one. It got really bad for all off us a different times, but in the 8k-12k mile range. My repair was done 6.9.2012. Hope this may help others.


Thanks for posting this. To my understanding, the only TSB for Cam actuators is for the 2.4 engine. Nothing for the 2.0 turbo.

What engine do you have?
 
Just to confirm: The problem went away completely after the repair?

Correct. Smooth as butter for 20K now.


Thanks for posting this. To my understanding, the only TSB for Cam actuators is for the 2.4 engine. Nothing for the 2.0 turbo.

What engine do you have?

Pretty sure 2.4. Will have to look tomorrow, 2am now. They didn't give me my window sticker which I find odd. It's a 2011 CXL, came from Germany.
 
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Took my car in again to have the dealer look at it for this issue..........It actually did it on the way to the dealer..........they said that they didn't get any codes nor did the car do it for them.......
 
Glad I searched this again today. The problem has become more and more frequent in my wife's car (2011 Buick Regal CXL, 2.4L, 89,000 Miles). I thought it was a tranny programming issue; dealer did as well. I may have them look into the actuator replacement as mentioned above.

Thank you for the info!
 
I have had my Regal since October of 2010. I loved the car until about 1 year later.
In September of 2011 I had this exact condition. It was sporadic enough that I couldn't get upset with the dealership when they couldn't produce the problem. It could happen first thing in the morning, after 10 minutes of driving, or after an hour of driving.

At that time they replaced the valve per the computer code.

The drive was smoother shortly thereafter, but the problem came back off and on again after that to the point where they again replaced the valves.

Most recently the problem worsened and the check engine light came on. This was the first time the check engine light had ever come on in my vehicle. Even in the times that the valve replacement was necessary, it was up to me to notice the condition and bring it in for repair, not a check engine light.

This time AFTER changing the valves per the code, they were able to reproduce the issue at their shop. During their investigation they noticed that a guide for the timing chain was severely damaged. They dropped the oil pan to discover plastic and metallic bits from this guide in the pan.

They replaced my engine and my high pressure fuel pump. They extended the powertrain warranty and gave me some regular maintenance incentives at the dealership.

But after looking into this more, and more specifically the 2.4L Ecotec engine, I've found that this "performance," while not wide-spread, is common enough that Buick should investigate this matter.

It gets dicier. I have a co-worker that has a GMC Terrain that had to have his timing chain replaced under warranty. While discussing the repair with the dealership and finding that they have performed this engine replacement in one Buick Regal (my car) and two GMC Terrains, I was informed that the "new" engine I received had addressed this design flaw and they ensured me that the "new" engine was safer than my older engine. I asked him if this was a known issue, why hasn't more been done to proactively evaluate the condition and issue a recall if necessary?

The dicey part of this is that I don't know how long this condition existed, if it finally deteriorated to this point, or if it just suddenly failed. And if they know the design is vulnerable to this failure, why not actively pursue addressing the design flaw? And how do I KNOW that this new engine addresses the flaw?

The other question I've asked but have not gotten an answer on is whether or not the oil change frequency recall has any direct impact on the failure of the timing chain. I usually go between 6000 and 7500 miles per oil change and they are now recommending to not exceed 5000 miles.

I actually still like the car when she acts right, but I can't get over this failure and lack of action over this failure when it has danger written all over it. What if someone stalls while in highway traffic? What if your car sputters when merging into highway traffic? What if the car sputters while you are trying to decelerate to avoid hitting another car? Or a person?

I'm not fully satisfied with the situation and am still in contact with a Buick District Specialist who says they are further examining the matter.

I'm posting this for those who might periodically experience this phenomena to push to have the dealership inspect your high pressure fuel pump and your timing chain as a function of evaluation. I hope that my case and the 3 others I know of are isolated incidents, but I only know what I know right now.

Good luck.
 
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Well there is a decent difference between the 2.4 and the 2.0T.
The 2.4 Direct Injected engines have a TON of problems. Especially the ones made before 01-01-2011. The 2.4 in the regals is exactly the same as the one in the equinox. The 2008-2012 have the same engine with the exception its not direct injected and they have virtually no problems with these actuators and solenoids. As soon as they went direct injected (2010 equinox) they started to have problems. We have replaced about 40 equinox engines due to oil consumption. All you 2.4L guys out there, take your vehicle to the dealer for an oil change, at exactly 2000 miles after the oil change check your oil. If its down more than 1quart (which is probably will be) go to the dealer. At that point the engine gets torn down and if there is a "zebra stripe" pattern your probably getting a new engine. If oil is not low then having the solenoids and/or the actuators replaced should fix your problem. Also if you are following the oil life monitor it IS necessary to check and possibly top off your engine oil as needed.

As far as the 2.0T guys i believe the solenoids are the problem. In some instances the actuators can go back, but i dont think we will have any timing chain or oil consumption issues. I have checked my oil multiple times and have never been low. (changed every 5k with mobile 1) however i have noticed a heavy fuel odor, im wondering if the fuel is just making the oil appear to still be full. The pre 2011 manufactured equinox's had issues with the high psi fuel pump have an internal leak and dumping fuel into the crank case, in turn thinning out the oil, in turn not giving the proper oil pressure to the actuators, in turn damaging the solenoids. I want to cross check the equinox fuel pump part # with the 2.0T #. i wonder if they have problems? This could explain the actuators going bad.

For you 2.4L guys, im going to check the equinox bulletins and see if the regal is on the list. sometimes a bulletin will pertain to several years, makes and models. ie. chevy avalanche, suburban, tahoe, yukon, escalade could all be on the same technical service bulletin.

PM me if you have any questions on how to approach the dealer to actually get your vehicle fixed. I am the only service advisor i know that actually cares about peoples cars. The way i see it is I paid ALOT of money for a quality product and quality service. Goodluck, i know its frustrating.
 
OK, a little update on the 2.0 turbo motor. I sent a buddy of mine who works at GM an email with what my car is doing (and a link to this thread). He has forwarded my email to a few key people to find out what they know about it. Off the top of his head, he sent me this........

There is a federal mandate that the OBD2 system performs a catalytic converter efficiency test periodically. This is to be done at idle and transitioning the fuel from rich to lean. The O2 sensor output will then determine the converter efficiency. Now during this test there couldbe a perception of a near stall...but you mention there have been stalls mentioned on the forum from other customers.

He is waiting to hear back from them. I'll let you guys know when he finds something out. So here is a question for you guys........

1) Has you car stalled out on you?
2) What type of trans to you have (Manual / Auto)?

I even volunteered my car for them to look at. 😀

1) No
2) Auto


 
1) NO
2) AUTO

Mine seems to happen at an extended stop such as a stop light where it sits at idle for 15 or more seconds and not a stop sign where it's a quick stop and go. It also seems to happen shortly after starting a drive and not after an extended trip.
 
If you guys can repeat it, try taking the car out of drive by popping into neutral for the duration of the stop. This will help eliminate the transmission. You could also sit at the stop light with no brakes applied
 
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Yes
MT

It's not the transmission...definitely an engine problem.
 
1. No
2. Auto

Big thanks to all you guys who are trying to get this problem solved!
 
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