Concert sound III - how many speakers and what sizes

[BuickGirlFromMars]

So I have the 9 speaker option in my 99 ultra. I want to upgrade my sound system. I am going to get a high quality head unit and I am going to put some nice, not overly pricy, speakers in. I am not going to be putting an amp or subwoofer in, the volume and type of music I listen to don't require it.

I will be removing the factory amp(anyone want to buy it, idk) and just going radio and speakers.

What size are the various speakers and how many of each? I know the rear doors have small ones.

 

[2007LucerneCXL]

Crutchfield should be able to let see what size and speakers are available. Just be mindful of the ohms when selecting them and head unit to match later.

 

[BuickGirlFromMars]

What does the ohm difference do

 

[2007LucerneCXL]

It's explained in this link a lot better and in more detail. But in the simplest form it's the difference between having a good system sound that works in harmony with the stereo output. Not really a problem with 4 speakers, but when its 6 speakers output for 4 speakers stereo it can make a difference, just a suggestion.

Ohm's Law in Car Audio

 

[Drakito]

The concert sound III system has 2 6x9's on the rear deck run as subwoofers, meaning they only get ~150hz and down in the sound field.
The Rear door speakers are 5 1/4" round and get ~150-15000hz.
The front door speakers are 5 1/4" round and get ~150-7500hz.
The front door tweeters are 1.5" round and get ~6000-20000hz.
The center channel speaker is a 3.5" round and gets ~2000-20000hz.

All the different speakers are active crossover type, meaning the amplifier runs the crossovers digitally inside with sound processing. The amplifier takes a standard 4 channel input(Front/Rear Left/Right) and uses it' built in digital sound processor, then outputs it on the 9 channels it has.

You have 3 options when replacing the deck.
1. Integrate with the factory amplifier. It is a 20WRMSx9 unit, meaning it has more power than any deck you will put in, and 9 channels output. Crutchfield and others sell integration harnesses so all you have to do is plug in at the front and it handles all the integration required.

2. Run your new aftermarket deck with an amplifier bypass. You will be required to fabricate passive impedance matching and crossover networks so you can run all the speakers. The impedance or ohms, is the load the amplifier sees. Aftermarket decks can run on a 4ohm load, but will shut down if you drop to 2 ohms. The power is halved if you go up to 8 ohms. It is way more complicated than this, but this is the easy way to explain it.
Basically you would run the front door 2 speakers through a passive crossover device. The center channel would have to be tied in to one door or the other, also through the device.
The rear doors and rear deck speakers would have to be tied together, also through a passive device.
Like this: Amazon.com: PCZXO - 2-Way Passive Car Audio 12dB/octave Crossovers Compatible with All Car Audio Component Systems. Made by Alphasonik, Sold in Pairs.: Cell Phones & Accessories
You would need 1 per set of speakers tied together.
Since you asked about replacing speakers, a new component front set comes with the passive device in the box.
The rears could be run full range, with no crossover network, but you would need to wire them all in series, dropping the impedance to 8 ohms and lowering output from the deck.
If you choose this version, do component fronts, coaxial rears, and delete the center channel.

3. Run new aftermarket amplifiers with digital crossovers. Many companies sell smaller 25x4 amplifiers. You can usually pick them up new for $200 from solid manufacturers, or used at pawn shops for $50. Run 2 of them and you can then amp each independent speaker and dial in it's digital crossover.
This is obviously the most labor and most in parts.

Personally option 1 is more than enough unless you have blown speakers. Now the factory speakers are just paper garbage, but if they work, I wouldn't mess with them until you need to.
If a significant number are blown I would do option 2.
If you are going to add real subwoofers down the line option 3.

 

[BuickGirlFromMars]

Well that is a hell of a lot of helpful information, thank you very much. None of my speakers are blown, just low quality. Do you think the sound will be good with quality speakers with the factory amp? Sounds like you may have done this haha.

 

[2007LucerneCXL]

It's may be easier to use a frequency sweep, apps or MP3 file downloads, to hear what you have and that it's operating on all sound levels. Working, blown and good are in the ears of listener, but doing a frequency sweep may point out if the current system falls short in some area.

As Drakito was kind enough to get into the details, a new head unit if everything else is good may be the simplest route. Plus picking up Bluetooth, input jack or SD on the newer unit makes it easier for all the other devices to connect.

 

[Drakito]

I used to do it for a living. I started as a Car audio installer waaaay back in 1997, then as the industry changed in the 2000's with the Fast and Furious craze I got into the mechanics side as well. I was both MECP(car audio) and ASE(mechanic) Master certified from 2006-2014. I've built more than my fair share of hot rods, show cars, race cars, etc.
I still love good sound, and I have worked on a ton of Buick's, including my own, over the years.
I had to go through my old wordperfect files to find the PA's setup as it's been a few years since I messed with it.
Putting a new deck in with the integration harness from Crutchfield or a local install shop is far and away the easiest route. Just know the plastic behind the radio cavity has a 50/50 chance it will need to be removed, either with pliers as it is brittle, or extremely carefully with a dremel, sometimes a combo of both.

 

[G-747172]

The concert sound III system has 2 6x9's on the rear deck run as subwoofers, meaning they only get ~150hz and down in the sound field.
The Rear door speakers are 5 1/4" round and get ~150-15000hz.
The front door speakers are 5 1/4" round and get ~150-7500hz.
The front door tweeters are 1.5" round and get ~6000-20000hz.
The center channel speaker is a 3.5" round and gets ~2000-20000hz.

All the different speakers are active crossover type, meaning the amplifier runs the crossovers digitally inside with sound processing. The amplifier takes a standard 4 channel input(Front/Rear Left/Right) and uses it' built in digital sound processor, then outputs it on the 9 channels it has.

You have 3 options when replacing the deck.
1. Integrate with the factory amplifier. It is a 20WRMSx9 unit, meaning it has more power than any deck you will put in, and 9 channels output. Crutchfield and others sell integration harnesses so all you have to do is plug in at the front and it handles all the integration required.

2. Run your new aftermarket deck with an amplifier bypass. You will be required to fabricate passive impedance matching and crossover networks so you can run all the speakers. The impedance or ohms, is the load the amplifier sees. Aftermarket decks can run on a 4ohm load, but will shut down if you drop to 2 ohms. The power is halved if you go up to 8 ohms. It is way more complicated than this, but this is the easy way to explain it.
Basically you would run the front door 2 speakers through a passive crossover device. The center channel would have to be tied in to one door or the other, also through the device.
The rear doors and rear deck speakers would have to be tied together, also through a passive device.
Like this: Amazon.com: PCZXO - 2-Way Passive Car Audio 12dB/octave Crossovers Compatible with All Car Audio Component Systems. Made by Alphasonik, Sold in Pairs.: Cell Phones & Accessories
You would need 1 per set of speakers tied together.
Since you asked about replacing speakers, a new component front set comes with the passive device in the box.
The rears could be run full range, with no crossover network, but you would need to wire them all in series, dropping the impedance to 8 ohms and lowering output from the deck.
If you choose this version, do component fronts, coaxial rears, and delete the center channel.

3. Run new aftermarket amplifiers with digital crossovers. Many companies sell smaller 25x4 amplifiers. You can usually pick them up new for $200 from solid manufacturers, or used at pawn shops for $50. Run 2 of them and you can then amp each independent speaker and dial in it's digital crossover.
This is obviously the most labor and most in parts.

Personally option 1 is more than enough unless you have blown speakers. Now the factory speakers are just paper garbage, but if they work, I wouldn't mess with them until you need to.
If a significant number are blown I would do option 2.
If you are going to add real subwoofers down the line option 3.

The rear door speakers are 3.5", same as center dash speaker

 

[BuickGirlFromMars]

The rear door speakers are 3.5", same as center dash speaker

By deck I assume you mean radio or head unit? Im not an audiophile, but down the road I am going to replace my radio. i have CSIII, so all 9 speakers. Factory everything. Would replacing the speakers with quality replacements(using crutchfield or other to match the right Ohms or something) see an improvement WITHOUT a head unit see quality increase? Would a quality increase after replacing the head unit assuming speakers are all changed?

Then. finally, do you think any good reviewed double din touchscreen radio would work with said integration harness or would it be brand specific? I am not an audiophile, but value good sound. And the sound is definitely not bad compared to previous car, but using bluetooth transmitter it really shows weakeness on bass and high volume.

 

[CrazyTaxi]

The concert sound III system has 2 6x9's on the rear deck run as subwoofers, meaning they only get ~150hz and down in the sound field.
The Rear door speakers are 5 1/4" round and get ~150-15000hz.
The front door speakers are 5 1/4" round and get ~150-7500hz.
The front door tweeters are 1.5" round and get ~6000-20000hz.
The center channel speaker is a 3.5" round and gets ~2000-20000hz.

All the different speakers are active crossover type, meaning the amplifier runs the crossovers digitally inside with sound processing. The amplifier takes a standard 4 channel input(Front/Rear Left/Right) and uses it' built in digital sound processor, then outputs it on the 9 channels it has.

You have 3 options when replacing the deck.
1. Integrate with the factory amplifier. It is a 20WRMSx9 unit, meaning it has more power than any deck you will put in, and 9 channels output. Crutchfield and others sell integration harnesses so all you have to do is plug in at the front and it handles all the integration required.

2. Run your new aftermarket deck with an amplifier bypass. You will be required to fabricate passive impedance matching and crossover networks so you can run all the speakers. The impedance or ohms, is the load the amplifier sees. Aftermarket decks can run on a 4ohm load, but will shut down if you drop to 2 ohms. The power is halved if you go up to 8 ohms. It is way more complicated than this, but this is the easy way to explain it.
Basically you would run the front door 2 speakers through a passive crossover device. The center channel would have to be tied in to one door or the other, also through the device.
The rear doors and rear deck speakers would have to be tied together, also through a passive device.
Like this: Amazon.com: PCZXO - 2-Way Passive Car Audio 12dB/octave Crossovers Compatible with All Car Audio Component Systems. Made by Alphasonik, Sold in Pairs.: Cell Phones & Accessories
You would need 1 per set of speakers tied together.
Since you asked about replacing speakers, a new component front set comes with the passive device in the box.
The rears could be run full range, with no crossover network, but you would need to wire them all in series, dropping the impedance to 8 ohms and lowering output from the deck.
If you choose this version, do component fronts, coaxial rears, and delete the center channel.

3. Run new aftermarket amplifiers with digital crossovers. Many companies sell smaller 25x4 amplifiers. You can usually pick them up new for $200 from solid manufacturers, or used at pawn shops for $50. Run 2 of them and you can then amp each independent speaker and dial in it's digital crossover.
This is obviously the most labor and most in parts.

Personally option 1 is more than enough unless you have blown speakers. Now the factory speakers are just paper garbage, but if they work, I wouldn't mess with them until you need to.
If a significant number are blown I would do option 2.
If you are going to add real subwoofers down the line option 3.

This is multiple years later, but this post is still super helpful. I'll be saving it for my own records. I've got 1 speaker blown in the rear deck passenger side of my park avenue, so I plan on just replacing the two rear deck speakers with some average units and continuing on. The stock system is functioning well enough for me for now. Thanks for all this great info!

 

[abudjak]

This is multiple years later, but this post is still super helpful. I'll be saving it for my own records. I've got 1 speaker blown in the rear deck passenger side of my park avenue, so I plan on just replacing the two rear deck speakers with some average units and continuing on. The stock system is functioning well enough for me for now. Thanks for all this great info!

If possible, unless you're ready to swap out the whole system, just go pick up another rear deck speaker from a matching car at the wreckers (or both, just to be safe). As long as it doesn't make grinding noises when you move the cone, it should be good.
The rear dash is the one place you will run into issues with putting aftermarket speakers, because the factory amp is tuned for the original 10 ohm 6x9's, and nobody other than GM factory suppliers make anything other than 4 ohm speakers. All the other factory speakers are normal 4 ohm, but the rear dash are different, and running the much lower 4 ohm impedance can blow out the rear channels on the factory amp

 

[BuickGirlFromMars]

If possible, unless you're ready to swap out the whole system, just go pick up another rear deck speaker from a matching car at the wreckers (or both, just to be safe). As long as it doesn't make grinding noises when you move the cone, it should be good.
The rear dash is the one place you will run into issues with putting aftermarket speakers, because the factory amp is tuned for the original 10 ohm 6x9's, and nobody other than GM factory suppliers make anything other than 4 ohm speakers. All the other factory speakers are normal 4 ohm, but the rear dash are different, and running the much lower 4 ohm impedance can blow out the rear channels on the factory amp

you can bypass/remove the factory setup if you are ready to do some changes to the speaker setup

 

[ulycyc]

I am far from expert on sound since I only listen to oldies, 60's and the news. My ultra has the 9 speaker also . Years ago I broke a rear speaker with a Christmas tree. I replaced them with JBL Stadium 962M 6x9 speakers. I know they are only 3ohms but it had no effect on the rest of the system. They really picked up the performance of the whole system. My kids adjusted the equalizer to dial in the sound and balance. They can even make my trunk lid rattle like a ricer car.🙂

 

[Dennis Edwin Fothergill]

you can bypass/remove the factory setup if you are ready to do some changes to the speaker setup

when my rear 6x9's went what i did was replace
them with good quality 3 way 6x9's and changed the original amp out to one from my Regal that had the Monsoon 220 watt system from the factory and it plugs right in to the original harness and then all i had to do was unhook the 9 th speaker under the dash as it sounded bad and voila i had an 8 speaker stereo that sounds great and is loud!

 

[CrazyTaxi]

If possible, unless you're ready to swap out the whole system, just go pick up another rear deck speaker from a matching car at the wreckers (or both, just to be safe). As long as it doesn't make grinding noises when you move the cone, it should be good.
The rear dash is the one place you will run into issues with putting aftermarket speakers, because the factory amp is tuned for the original 10 ohm 6x9's, and nobody other than GM factory suppliers make anything other than 4 ohm speakers. All the other factory speakers are normal 4 ohm, but the rear dash are different, and running the much lower 4 ohm impedance can blow out the rear channels on the factory amp

Unfortunately I hadn't checked back here and have already replaced the two rear speakers with some 4ohm 3 ways. I never play music that loud, and therefor I assume the speakers aren't drawing that much power. Would you say it still poses significant risk to the system? If it did blow out the rear channels, would that mean the entire amp needs replacing - or are there fuses within the system that can be replaced?

These are the speakers that I installed: JVC CS-DR6931

Thanks for the reply.

 

[CrazyTaxi]

If possible, unless you're ready to swap out the whole system, just go pick up another rear deck speaker from a matching car at the wreckers (or both, just to be safe). As long as it doesn't make grinding noises when you move the cone, it should be good.
The rear dash is the one place you will run into issues with putting aftermarket speakers, because the factory amp is tuned for the original 10 ohm 6x9's, and nobody other than GM factory suppliers make anything other than 4 ohm speakers. All the other factory speakers are normal 4 ohm, but the rear dash are different, and running the much lower 4 ohm impedance can blow out the rear channels on the factory amp

Replying again just to correct some info! The factory speakers that were in there were actually 4ohm speakers. I'll attach an image below. This one has the amp and 9 speaker system, so perhaps they just differed year to year.

 

[BuickGirlFromMars]

when my rear 6x9's went what i did was replace
them with good quality 3 way 6x9's and changed the original amp out to one from my Regal that had the Monsoon 220 watt system from the factory and it plugs right in to the original harness and then all i had to do was unhook the 9 th speaker under the dash as it sounded bad and voila i had an 8 speaker stereo that sounds great and is loud!

This amp uses the rear 6x9s as full range, if I read this correctly? Plug n play? what year regal was this?

Could the middle speaker be used if you replaced it or was the regal only setup to use 8 speakers?

 

[Dennis Edwin Fothergill]

This amp uses the rear 6x9s as full range, if I read this correctly? Plug n play? what year regal was this?

Could the middle speaker be used if you replaced it or was the regal only setup to use 8 speakers?

yes the 2000 Regal was an 8 speaker setup so the center speaker in the Ultra was not needed and sounded blown so I simply unplugged it and everything is working well and sounds mint!

 

[BuickGirlFromMars]

yes the 2000 Regal was an 8 speaker setup so the center speaker in the Ultra was not needed and sounded blown so I simply unplugged it and everything is working well and sounds mint!

thank you for that, thats good to know! since im not a huge audio nut, but i value the rear speakers doing something, that may be something to try down the road lol. But do you know for sure if the rear 2 on the regal is processed normally like the doors on park avenue?