Looking for guidance on Park Avenue project

iriffel

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Buick Ownership
1996 Park Avenue
Hey everyone! I recently bought a 1996 Buick Park Avenue for $700 for a project that my car enthusiast's father and I can fix-up. The interior of the car is in absolutely great shape, with a few electrical problems here and there. I've had issues with getting the air to come through the vents amongst other things, mainly the interior lights refusing to shut off. I am still troubleshooting that one, even with the doors closed, the interior liggting stays on FOREVER.

This car came from a single-family and has a very good history, started as grandpa's car and was bought new back in the nineties.

The car's biggest woe is its underbody rust. There are holes in the subframe rails, which I will be replacing, rotted fuel lines, and brake lines which will all need to be replaced, which seems to be a pretty big undertaking, as we all know rust is difficult to work with. Nevertheless, I am going to get this car back on the road. I spent $200 on new brake lines from Lines to Go, a Canadian-based company that sells OEM brake and fuel lines.

Does anyone have any tips on how to do this? I love this car and is worthwhile to fix up. Here's a shot of my Dad and me when we first bought it. Oh yeah, has 191k easy miles and lived out in the sticks for those 20 years, hence the rust. Engine and transmission are running strong and were well taken care of, car used to belong to a guy who owned an auto part store.

Let me know what you think,

Thanks! -Isaac
 

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Hey everyone! I recently bought a 1996 Buick Park Avenue for $700 for a project that my car enthusiast's father and I can fix-up. The interior of the car is in absolutely great shape, with a few electrical problems here and there. I've had issues with getting the air to come through the vents amongst other things, mainly the interior lights refusing to shut off. I am still troubleshooting that one, even with the doors closed, the interior liggting stays on FOREVER.

This car came from a single-family and has a very good history, started as grandpa's car and was bought new back in the nineties.

The car's biggest woe is its underbody rust. There are holes in the subframe rails, which I will be replacing, rotted fuel lines, and brake lines which will all need to be replaced, which seems to be a pretty big undertaking, as we all know rust is difficult to work with. Nevertheless, I am going to get this car back on the road. I spent $200 on new brake lines from Lines to Go, a Canadian-based company that sells OEM brake and fuel lines.

Does anyone have any tips on how to do this? I love this car and is worthwhile to fix up. Here's a shot of my Dad and me when we first bought it. Oh yeah, has 191k easy miles and lived out in the sticks for those 20 years, hence the rust. Engine and transmission are running strong and were well taken care of, car used to belong to a guy who owned an auto part store.

Let me know what you think,

Thanks! -Isaac
Welcome to the forum, Isaac. The Park Avenue looks very nice and I am happy for you concerning your purchase. Concerning your question, I think that others will have tips and suggestions concerning the rust issues. Since I have lived in Florida for most of my life, I do not have experience in this area. I did want to say thanks for being a member and posting the picture.
 
Only tip is a good GM service manual, without that it's difficult to do a project. You can also check some Lesabre posts as they shared some components.

Rust, check the engine subframe, bolts and mounting points on the rear suspension mounting points. Both front and rear should be first items to be inspected and repaired before any other repairs as it's a safety issue more than appearance.
 
Only tip is a good GM service manual, without that it's difficult to do a project. You can also check some Lesabre posts as they shared some components.

Rust, check the engine subframe, bolts and mounting points on the rear suspension mounting points. Both front and rear should be first items to be inspected and repaired before any other repairs as it's a safety issue more than appearance.
Cool, the front suspension and rear bolts are either rusted out or missing in several cases. I can post pictures later, I’ll probably need to drill new holes and Install new bolts. It drives ok, as it did on the way home.
 
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Not to put a scary story out there but this is something to be mindful of. Patience and getting all the possible safety issues resolved before taking it out for a drive will always make the return home that much more enjoyable.
 
Not to put a scary story out there but this is something to be mindful of. Patience and getting all the possible safety issues resolved before taking it out for a drive will always make the return home that much more enjoyable.
Sheesh, definitely need to take care of that. Do you think it’s something that’s fixable? Most everything beneath the car is rusty.
 
There's information on doing that type of repair (Google Buick subframe falling out) as most GM front wheel drive from that era have had the same problem if rusted. It's the level of repair on what needs to be done that will change and that why it's needs to be inspected to determine what is required.
940922GM09-014.webp
 
There's information on doing that type of repair (Google Buick subframe falling out) as most GM front wheel drive from that era have had the same problem if rusted. It's the level of repair on what needs to be done that will change and that why it's needs to be inspected to determine what is required.
View attachment 30083
Thank you, I will get photos here soon. Assuming everything needs to be repaired, what would I need to do? I’m really worried about having to scrap another project, as I did with a Corolla I bought that had a blown engine. I have a welder, and am wholly hoping this can be repaired.
 
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There's information on doing that type of repair (Google Buick subframe falling out) as most GM front wheel drive from that era have had the same problem if rusted. It's the level of repair on what needs to be done that will change and that why it's needs to be inspected to determine what is required.
View attachment 30083
 
Okay, here are some pictures:

4C4A48E7-5AD3-4365-9AF2-CC427D77FC20.webp
passenger side
73C4D6A6-30C2-4661-9B12-04BF76DE9CD2.webp
Subframe Rot I need to cut and replace

E3A62307-2CD3-43AD-B3DE-6692F7B92B23.webp
control arm, sway bar links, etc.

CD4A920B-EAC8-4B6B-9D01-889DBD8DDE6D.webp
Rear suspension.

can this all be fixed one way or another?
 

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There's information on doing that type of repair (Google Buick subframe falling out) as most GM front wheel drive from that era have had the same problem if rusted. It's the level of repair on what needs to be done that will change and that why it's needs to be inspected to determine what is required.
View attachment 30083
Just posted photos.
 
The mount(s) are gone and how much work you may not know until they are out.
Here's a video on the general idea, more out there
 
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Sort of, but it's a photo of a broken part and nothing of the mounting point. Once it's taken apart you can see what may also may or may not be needed.
 
Awesome, well I’ll get to work on it and try to replace the bushings and see what else needs to be repaired. I just needed to verify the car is worth keeping, as I cannot afford to loose it to rust.
 
A qualified body shop would be a good source for a inspection on rust issue as it's only showing the surface in the photos and as a famous singer once put it "Rust never sleeps". Good luck on the project.
 
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At 700 bucks and 191k miles the seller got a good price for it. If you don't mind spending the time and money to fix up a 25 year old car that most people would avoid due to the extensive rot then I say more power to you. The seller got a good price. I wouldn't have given him more than scrap price for it. Just my 2 cents as life is too short to open up a "can of worms" like that. I'll deal with rusted brake lines and fuel lines but draw the line at extensive surgery such as what you have ahead of you. Good luck!!!!
 
At 700 bucks and 191k miles the seller got a good price for it. If you don't mind spending the time and money to fix up a 25 year old car that most people would avoid due to the extensive rot then I say more power to you. The seller got a good price. I wouldn't have given him more than scrap price for it. Just my 2 cents as life is too short to open up a "can of worms" like that. I'll deal with rusted brake lines and fuel lines but draw the line at extensive surgery such as what you have ahead of you. Good luck!!!!
Thanks, seller gave me $300 off. Do you think it’s worth it now, or should I scrap it?
 
So they were asking $1000 and you got it for 700? Or did you get it for $400?
 
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