NEED HELP 2000 century custom

[mike nich]

Good Luck!

Do you know how to do the current draw test?

not really

 

[Buickguy123]

dextron fluid and filter, pan drop no flush, cleared eng. codes (p0404) no more codes as of yet will drive today

Sounds like you have a transmission issue from what you say? But no codes for transmission? Could need those one or two solenoids in the transmission. Google it. Maybe the transmission is in so called "safe mode." Which is why it is sluggish? Drop the transmission pan again and refill with Valvoline ATF fluid? Just a thought.

 

[chem_man]

OK, the easiest way to do the fuel pump current draw test is to remove the fuel pump relay from the underhood fuse box. Now using your multimeter set to the AMPS function (and you might have to plug the red lead into another place on the meter) and connect the test leads so they go where the power side of the fuel pump relay goes.

There should be a diagram on the relay that shows the pins - should be 85 and 87, or 85 and 86, or 86 and 87. Anyway, make sure your multimeter can handle at least 10 amps of current flowing through it.

You might need to have the ignition in the run position for this to work.

It does not matter if you see a negative value for the current (depends on where you put which lead relative to the power terminals) or a positive value for the current. You should see around 6 amps of current being pulled by the fuel pump.

Now, regarding Buickguy123's thoughts on your troubles possibly being transmission related, I won't disagree with him. If you have a local transmission shop (not AAMCO) that is locally owned, or you know someone at a regular garage who has a professional level scan tool, ask them to see if there are any transmission related codes being stored. Do not go to Autozone, AAP, or O'Reilly's because they do not have the advanced code reader that is needed.

Good Luck!

 

[mike nich]

OK, the easiest way to do the fuel pump current draw test is to remove the fuel pump relay from the underhood fuse box. Now using your multimeter set to the AMPS function (and you might have to plug the red lead into another place on the meter) and connect the test leads so they go where the power side of the fuel pump relay goes.

There should be a diagram on the relay that shows the pins - should be 85 and 87, or 85 and 86, or 86 and 87. Anyway, make sure your multimeter can handle at least 10 amps of current flowing through it.

You might need to have the ignition in the run position for this to work.

It does not matter if you see a negative value for the current (depends on where you put which lead relative to the power terminals) or a positive value for the current. You should see around 6 amps of current being pulled by the fuel pump.

Now, regarding Buickguy123's thoughts on your troubles possibly being transmission related, I won't disagree with him. If you have a local transmission shop (not AAMCO) that is locally owned, or you know someone at a regular garage who has a professional level scan tool, ask them to see if there are any transmission related codes being stored. Do not go to Autozone, AAP, or O'Reilly's because they do not have the advanced code reader that is needed.

Good Luck!

do you think it might be the TPS?

 

[chem_man]

I believe a bad TPS would set a DTC for a bad TP sensor.

 

[mike nich]

do you think it might be the TPS?

fuel press. mo change, f/p draw ......four. eight plus one.... sorry umbers quit working.

 

[chem_man]

OK on the no change for the fuel pressure. So you only saw a 4 amp current draw by the fuel pump? What is the eight plus one refer to?

 

[mike nich]

OK on the no change for the fuel pressure. So you only saw a 4 amp current draw by the fuel pump? What is the eight plus one refer to?

4.9 amp draw -- my numbers on the garage computer do not work. I knew you would ask that.😊👍

 

[chem_man]

OK, the Delphi spec for current draw on these fuel pumps is at least 7 amps. I had to replace mine because it was only drawing 3.9 amps and Delphi Tech Support said that was too little current being drawn, replace the pump. So, since your pump is drawing at least 2 amps less than what Delphi specifies as normal, I would say you need to replace the fuel pump as well.

Now, that being said, i would not wait too long to replace it. There is an access plate in the trunk under the carpeting that is used to remove the pump and put a new one in. Now for the unsolicited parts recommendation. Get an ACDelco pump to replace the one in the gas tank. I used to recommend either the ACDelco or the Delphi pump, but over the last 2 years, Delphi's fuel pump quality has deteriorated. In 2018 I replaced the failing factory pump with a Delphi fuel pump (Delphi was an OEM fuel pump supplier to GM). However, 2.5 years later I had to replace the failing Delphi pump. Good thing it had a lifetime warranty and Advance Auto Parts/Carquest did not give me any problems. Because of all the complaints I have read over the last 12 - 18 months regarding bad out of the box Delphi fuel pumps on multiple auto related forums, I can no longer recommend Delphi fuel pumps.

As they say, cry once, bite the bullet and get the best part you can so you do not have to redo the repair again in the near future.

Stay away from the super inexpensive fuel pumps found at rockauto, amazon or ebay. One of the guys on the Bob Is The Oil Guy Forum went the inexpensive route for his son's pickup and the $30.00 fuel pump lasted a handful of days and less than 250 miles before it died.

Good Luck!

 

[mike nich]

OK, the Delphi spec for current draw on these fuel pumps is at least 7 amps. I had to replace mine because it was only drawing 3.9 amps and Delphi Tech Support said that was too little current being drawn, replace the pump. So, since your pump is drawing at least 2 amps less than what Delphi specifies as normal, I would say you need to replace the fuel pump as well.

Now, that being said, i would not wait too long to replace it. There is an access plate in the trunk under the carpeting that is used to remove the pump and put a new one in. Now for the unsolicited parts recommendation. Get an ACDelco pump to replace the one in the gas tank. I used to recommend either the ACDelco or the Delphi pump, but over the last 2 years, Delphi's fuel pump quality has deteriorated. In 2018 I replaced the failing factory pump with a Delphi fuel pump (Delphi was an OEM fuel pump supplier to GM). However, 2.5 years later I had to replace the failing Delphi pump. Good thing it had a lifetime warranty and Advance Auto Parts/Carquest did not give me any problems. Because of all the complaints I have read over the last 12 - 18 months regarding bad out of the box Delphi fuel pumps on multiple auto related forums, I can no longer recommend Delphi fuel pumps.

As they say, cry once, bite the bullet and get the best part you can so you do not have to redo the repair again in the near future.

Stay away from the super inexpensive fuel pumps found at rockauto, amazon or ebay. One of the guys on the Bob Is The Oil Guy Forum went the inexpensive route for his son's pickup and the $30.00 fuel pump lasted a handful of days and less than 250 miles before it died.

Good Luck!

Just replaced the pump 2weeks ago thinking it was weak, Auto Zone do not remember the brand, but it was a $400.00+ pump (under warranty). from the one I put in 4 years ago. Do you think I really need to change it again? I mean I will no big deal, if you think that is the problem. Thanks.

 

[chem_man]

Replace the fuel pump that is 2 weeks old because it's motor is not drawing the manufacturer's specified current? YES! You do not want to be stranded someplace inconvenient because of it.

One thing you need to learn early is that the percentage of parts that are defective right out of the box is higher today than it has ever been even for OEM parts! When you start talking about remanufactured starters and alternators, the failure rate of "brand new" remanufactured parts right out of the box is on the order of 30 to 50%. Also, the failure rate of brand new "new" alternators and starters is almost that of remanufactured alternators and starters.

This is not a made in China issue. China can produce very good quality parts if they are paid to do so. Same thing here in the USA and elsewhere. Unfortunately, all the MBA's that seem to be running companies today are doing all they can to squeak out every last penny they can because their annual bonuses are tied to profitability for the last quarter or year. All they worry about is getting the products out the door as cheaply as they can and if it means using a cheaper grade of raw materials that will only last 3 years as compared to the parts of 10 years ago that used better raw materials and parts lasted 10 years, so be it.

 

[mike nich]

Replace the fuel pump that is 2 weeks old because it's motor is not drawing the manufacturer's specified current? YES! You do not want to be stranded someplace inconvenient because of it.

One thing you need to learn early is that the percentage of parts that are defective right out of the box is higher today than it has ever been even for OEM parts! When you start talking about remanufactured starters and alternators, the failure rate of "brand new" remanufactured parts right out of the box is on the order of 30 to 50%. Also, the failure rate of brand new "new" alternators and starters is almost that of remanufactured alternators and starters.

This is not a made in China issue. China can produce very good quality parts if they are paid to do so. Same thing here in the USA and elsewhere. Unfortunately, all the MBA's that seem to be running companies today are doing all they can to squeak out every last penny they can because their annual bonuses are tied to profitability for the last quarter or year. All they worry about is getting the products out the door as cheaply as they can and if it means using a cheaper grade of raw materials that will only last 3 years as compared to the parts of 10 years ago that used better raw materials and parts lasted 10 years, so be it.

what exactly does the low amps mean? what does the pump do or not do with the low amps? the pump that i just installed was a Delphi according to AutoZone.
Thanks

 

[chem_man]

A pump that pulls less current than designed will not be able to pump the correct volume of fluid at a specified pressure. Also, the pump may not be able to develop the required pressure ti needs to allow the engine to operate normally.

 

[mike nich]

A pump that pulls less current than designed will not be able to pump the correct volume of fluid at a specified pressure. Also, the pump may not be able to develop the required pressure ti needs to allow the engine to operate normally.

should I do Bosche or Delco brand?

 

[chem_man]

I would go ACDelco. While Bosch is an OEM supplier and makes excellent OEM parts, many of their their aftermarket parts are not necessarily of the same quality. The ACDelco fuel pump is an actual OEM part - same part that went into the vehicle when it was manufactured/

What I find interesting is that the ACDelco fuel pump is less expensive than the Delphi fuel pump. I have been noticing lately that ACDelco/GM Genuine parts are priced quite competitively relative to the other major aftermarket parts brands. It used to be that they were priced almost twice that of an equivalent quality aftermarket part (talking Delicious apples to Delicious apples here).

Just curious, where in the US are you located?

Good Luck!

 

[mike nich]

I would go ACDelco. While Bosch is an OEM supplier and makes excellent OEM parts, many of their their aftermarket parts are not necessarily of the same quality. The ACDelco fuel pump is an actual OEM part - same part that went into the vehicle when it was manufactured/

What I find interesting is that the ACDelco fuel pump is less expensive than the Delphi fuel pump. I have been noticing lately that ACDelco/GM Genuine parts are priced quite competitively relative to the other major aftermarket parts brands. It used to be that they were priced almost twice that of an equivalent quality aftermarket part (talking Delicious apples to Delicious apples here).

Just curious, where in the US are you located?

Good Luck!

Thanks Delco it will be. Rio Rancho N.M.

 

[chem_man]

Good choice. Thanks for the location. I'm normally northeast of Baltimore, MD (adjacent county), but currently in Omaha, NE looking after some family business.

 

[mike nich]

Good choice. Thanks for the location. I'm normally northeast of Baltimore, MD (adjacent county), but currently in Omaha, NE looking after some fami business.

will replace Sunday and advise of what happens. can I check the new pump for amps before I button it up all the way to see the amp draw?

Thanks

 

[chem_man]

Yes, you can test the pump before you button everything up BUT make sure that the fuel pump is immersed in and covered by gasoline to keep the pump from overheating. So, I guess that means you'll need to put the pump into the tank and secure it, hook the lines up and then plug it in. Just don't put the hatch back on.

Also, make sure that the o-ring does not slip out of place and drop onto the fuel gauge float otherwise, one of the next times you get gas, you'll see some of it flowing out from the tank under the car. Been there. I'll tell you that the o-ring sitting in gas for awhile gets mighty big.

Good Luck!

 

[mike nich]

Yes, you can test the pump before you button everything up BUT make sure that the fuel pump is immersed in and covered by gasoline to keep the pump from overheating. So, I guess that means you'll need to put the pump into the tank and secure it, hook the lines up and then plug it in. Just don't put the hatch back on.

Also, make sure that the o-ring does not slip out of place and drop onto the fuel gauge float otherwise, one of the next times you get gas, you'll see some of it flowing out from the tank under the car. Been there. I'll tell you that the o-ring sitting in gas for awhile gets mighty big.

Good Luck!

Okay replaced the pump with Delco, Sill 4.9 amps draw, Still does not run right, same as it was before. I do not think it is the fuel pump now, the trans seems to be working fine I just have to pedal it to get it to catch then it will go thru all of the gears, Buick for sale as I bought another vehicle for the wife and I took the Durango, But I would still like to find the problem and fix it, do not really want to sell it like it is. Anymore suggestions?

Thanks Again for the info & help.
Mike