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G-968935

Last reply Jan 24, 2023 · posted in Buick Riviera Forum

MY 1990 buick Riviera is bucking and stalling out just put in a new battery ,but still bucking when trying to accelerate ,check engine light on

thanks, for any sugetions i could pass on to my mechanic

9 Replies · 823 views

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LARRY70GS

Jan 18, 2023

You don't need any fancy equipment to check codes on a 1990 GM car. All you do is jump A to B, with the ignition on, and the check engine light flashes the code. Long flashes and shorts. It will output code 12 (system initiation), then all codes in numerical order, then code 12 again.

Your problem sound like a much more basic problem. You need to check fuel pressure.

Britspics

Jan 24, 2023

Thanks to all of the above smart mechanics for taking the time to try and help me. The part that fixed my 1990 Riviera was the MASS AIR FLOW SENSOR. Since i own two 1990 Rivieras i hope you will be able to help me with future issues. thanks again, Michael Brito

Reactions: Gluttenforpunishment and ackcapbuick

Britspics

Jan 24, 2023

My !990 Buick Riviera

Reactions: Gluttenforpunishment and ackcapbuick

ackcapbuick

Jan 24, 2023

Congrats on getting it fixed. How was your idle while this was happening?

As stated, you can pull codes, albeit in rudimentary fashion. Here's another good explanation of how that works.

GM OBD 1 paperclip code retrieval
This applies only to GM vehicles with the 12 pin ALDL OBD connector, e.g., your 1990 Riv.

To check for stored codes, open up a paper clip and insert one end into the A slot and the other end into the B slot. See above diagram, be cautious of the orientation of the connector. In some models, its upside down and you would end up using pins G and H.

Now, sit in the drivers seat with a pad and pencil and turn the key to ON or RUN. Do NOT start the car.

The first code should always be 12. This is to tell you that the OBD system is operating correctly. If there are no other codes present, code 12 will repeat itself.

The check engine light will flash for each digit in a code. Take code 12. It will flash ONCE for 1, pause, and TWICE for 2.
FLASH, pause, FLASH FLASH. = 12

If there are 3 codes like 12, 14 and 21 will look like this...
FLASH, pause, FLASH FLASH = 12
Pause
Pause
Flash, pause, FLASH FLASH FLASH FLASH = 14
Pause
Pause
FLASH FLASH, pause, FLASH = 21

When its done with the last code, it will go back to code 12 and repeat.

To clear the codes. Turn the key to OFF, remove the paperclip, and disconnect both battery cables. Wait about 10 minutes and reconnect.

From <GM OBD 1 Paperclip test - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat>

Then look online for a list of GM 2 digit trouble codes, aka blink codes.

Reactions: Britspics

Gluttenforpunishment

Jan 24, 2023

Gorgeous car sir!

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n0rd5

Last reply 17 minutes ago · posted in Buick Century Forum

My 98 Century A/C quit working, blew a radiator hose and now has low coolant false alarms. (only 57k miles)

Last fall I bought a 1998 Buick Century with only 57,000 miles from an old relative who rarely drove. The A/C and everything else worked perfectly last fall. But this spring I used the A/C and it wasn't blowing cold. I drove 10 miles home with the AC "on", and the second I get home and put it in park the radiator hose blew off soaking everything with coolant. I'm guessing the small pressure ripple caused the clamp to jump a tooth or something dumb) Nothing was broken, the top radiator hose simply popped off the engine barb. I refilled it and used the same hose, which was in perfect shape.

While trying to diagnose my A/C issues, I confirmed the fans DO turn on when I disconnect the coolant temp probe connector (ECU demands fans when it can't read the probe I've found out by testing). I jumpered the A/C clutch relay and it DOES engage the A/C compressor. The refrigerant has proper pressure (so not a leaked refrigerant issue). I cannot figure out why the ECU will not let the A/C system run. I even installed a new coolant temp sensor into the engine, no change.

The cooling fans never want to come on when the temp gauge goes over 50% (but temp never goes more than say 55% to red, (and evidently they don't come on until it is REALLY hot?), but the fans both work fine when the ECU demands them.

So I've been without A/C all summer. One time we accidentally left the A/C knob on "norm" for 20 minutes which heated up the antifreeze enough to cause a "low coolant" light to flash on the dash. I confirmed there was enough coolant, so I drained half, pulled the antifreeze level sensor, scrubbed the sensor prong itself (just a metal post) and reinstalled and refilled my coolant, burped it, went for a drive, and the low coolant light is ack on even though its full.

Another annoying quirk with this car is no trunk release, ONLY the keyfob button (never experienced that in any car, not even a glove box button). Also, when I push the door's LOCK switch, i have to hit it TWICE, it beeps once as if I have headlights on or something (I don't) and its warning me it doesn't want to lock on the first press... Is this normal behavior for this car?

I do NOT want to pay dealership prices to have this diagnosed, and am hoping someone here has more knowledge than I do, and have some input on my issues here relating to no A/C and heating up the coolant / false low level warnings. I thought I had scored a great condition car, but everything is spiraling down all of a sudden.

4 Replies · 299 views

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chem_man

Wednesday at 8:48 PM

Diagnosing an HVAC system can be tricky. First, it requires the use of an HVAC manifold gauge set so you can read both the high side and low side pressures. Just because it has "enough" pressure on the low side does not mean that there is enough refrigerant in the system. Secondly, you need a Digital Multi-Meter (DMM) in order to measure voltages and perform resistance/continuity checks to make sure there are no broken wires, defective sensors, etc. Third, you will need electrical schematics for troubleshooting the electrical parts of the HVAC system. Finally, you will need a vacuum pump in order to pump down the system if you find that you have a leak or need to add refrigerant.

R134a systems are charged by weight of refrigerant and not by the pressures measured by the gauge set. The only accurate way to do that is to first evacuate the system, pull a vacuum for a certain period of time in order to ensure their are no leaks, and then recharge it by weight.

If you do not have a set of HVAC gauges, you can "rent" them from most any O'Reilly, AutoZone or Advance/Carquest auto parts store using their loaner specialty tool program. A decent DMM will cost you about $30. The schematics can be obtained for free from Free Car Service Manuals from LEMON Manuals. The vacuum pump can also be obtained for "free" from the various auto part stores.

You could have a bad relay, a bad pressure sensor, etc. Also helpful will be a diagnostic chart which can also be found in the service manuals from Free Car Service Manuals from LEMON Manuals.

Good Luck!

n0rd5

Yesterday at 11:31 AM

chem_man said:
Diagnosing an HVAC system can be tricky. First, it requires the use of an HVAC manifold gauge set so you can read both the high side and low side pressures. Just because it has "enough" pressure on the low side does not mean that there is enough refrigerant in the system. Secondly, you need a Digital Multi-Meter (DMM) in order to measure voltages and perform resistance/continuity checks to make sure there are no broken wires, defective sensors, etc. Third, you will need electrical schematics for troubleshooting the electrical parts of the HVAC system. Finally, you will need a vacuum pump in order to pump down the system if you find that you have a leak or need to add refrigerant.

R134a systems are charged by weight of refrigerant and not by the pressures measured by the gauge set. The only accurate way to do that is to first evacuate the system, pull a vacuum for a certain period of time in order to ensure their are no leaks, and then recharge it by weight.

If you do not have a set of HVAC gauges, you can "rent" them from most any O'Reilly, AutoZone or Advance/Carquest auto parts store using their loaner specialty tool program. A decent DMM will cost you about $30. The schematics can be obtained for free from Free Car Service Manuals from LEMON Manuals. The vacuum pump can also be obtained for "free" from the various auto part stores.

You could have a bad relay, a bad pressure sensor, etc. Also helpful will be a diagnostic chart which can also be found in the service manuals from Free Car Service Manuals from LEMON Manuals.

Good Luck!

I have a meter and had already checked / verified every function of as much as I could think of, 100% of the fuse and relay box is functional, and the lemon guide many times doesn't have all that much information, such as the coolant level sensor. All it has is a single graphic showing it's (obvious) location, but no further information can be found on that system https://lemon-manuals.la/images/DM14Q313/gm110/539134051/ which doesn't help diagnose or test the BCM or why I'm getting this erroneous low coolant light.

I was hoping someone with experience on this specific model and issue may have already dealt with this issue. As its likely (hopefully) something really simple and dumb that is causing the PCM to not want to run the A/C system...

Also don't know why I have to hit the lock button two times (on the door) to get it to lock, the first press gives a single chime, 2nd press locks the car. I'd assume the chime is warning me of some situation that needs to be rectified (such as headlights left on but they aren't) but I've never owned a Buick in my life, and are not sure how this ecosystem works.
Edit: had to use Claude to tell me this door chime thing is normal for Buicks, warning me that my driver door is ajar (duh, im exiting my car and about to leave, wanting to lock everything). I've never had a car act so silly (complaining about a driver door ajar as you are locking to leave it). I had been using Gemini as an assist but it was clueless about this "feature".

02LTD2.0

Yesterday at 4:09 PM

If it has the delayed locking feature it would ding three times to let you know that the doors will lock about 5 seconds after the last door is closed.

chem_man

17 minutes ago

Regarding the lemon online service manual, you obviously did not explore the repair and diagnosis section because if you had, you would have discovered all kinds of electrical schematics such as this one:

Manual Temp Control/Electronic Control — 1998 Buick Century V6-3100 3.1L VIN M SFI Service Manual ~ LEMON Manuals

Repair manual for the 1998 Buick Century V6-3100 3.1L VIN M SFI, including electrical diagrams, bolt torques, and labor times.

lemon-manuals.la

Here is a link to the Repair and Diagnosis Start Page for the HVAC Section:

https://lemon-manuals.la/Buick/1998/Century%20V6-3100%203.1L%20VIN%20M%20SFI/Repair%20and%20Diagnosis/#Heating%20and%20Air%20Conditioning/Diagrams/Electrical%20Diagrams/Compressor%20Controls/

There is also a section in there on Testing and Inspection. Here is the link to Symptom Diagnosis:

With HVAC System - Manual — 1998 Buick Century V6-3100 3.1L VIN M SFI Service Manual ~ LEMON Manuals

Repair manual for the 1998 Buick Century V6-3100 3.1L VIN M SFI, including electrical diagrams, bolt torques, and labor times.

lemon-manuals.la

My advice is to spend an hour or two looking through the various sections of Lemon's online service manual for your 1998 Century and you might surprise yourself as to the amount of helpful information that is present.

Good Luck!

StealthESW

Last reply Yesterday at 10:53 PM · posted in Buick Century Forum

Need picture of the front caliper bolts and brake job advice.

I recently bought new pads and rotors for my wifes 1996 Century. I have not been in the front brakes of this car yet. I did the rear several months ago. I replaced the drums, shoes, hardware, cylinders and brake lines.
Now I need to do the front and was hoping some of you guys could send me pictures of the mounting hardware. I would hate to pull off the wheel just to have to put it back on to go get more tools. I know you guys understand when I say I want the wife to feel like I know what I am doing, plus it would save me time. lol I am hoping they are hexhead, but I feel like it is going to be something I no longer have, like torx or allen.

9 Replies · 434 views

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ohioriver

Monday at 6:58 PM

Very good tool vendor....

TEKTON Hand Tools | Shop Sockets, Ratchets, Wrenches, and Pliers

We're based in Grand Rapids, Michigan, and known for complete hand tool sets that don't skip sizes, our growing US manufacturing, and exceptional customer support.

www.tekton.com

StealthESW

Monday at 8:17 PM

Oh, the wife caught me looking at the tools. 🙄 Uh oh.

Looks like Harbor Freight for me. lol

ulycyc

Monday at 8:51 PM

harbor freight hand tools are ok. Just be careful of tools that plug in, lift or support.

StealthESW

Monday at 11:32 PM

ulycyc said:
harbor freight hand tools are ok. Just be careful of tools that plug in, lift or support.

Lucky for me all I need is the Bit Socket. However, that cannot be better advice. Harbor Freight power tools are not very good.

StealthESW

Yesterday at 10:53 PM

Well, the bolts were 9mm Allen, not 10mm. I cleaned them, lubed then replaced with new rubber bushings. Quick job. Much easier than I thought it was going to be. Used a PowerStop kit with drilled and slotted rotors and Z16 Ceramic pads. Whisper quiet and very grippy. I really like the feel. Much better than the factory ACDelcos that were on it. They always felt like they slipped more than they should. I feel like I had to push harder on the pedal before.

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NewLeSabreOwner

Last reply Yesterday at 9:20 PM · posted in Buick LeSabre Forum

Coolant Flush After Seeing Gunk?

I did the quick fix of the replacing the temperature sensor, I did not drain the whole system, just made sure to be ready to replace it seconds after taking the old one out and only lost maybe 2 to three cups max of coolant. I however doing that did want to make sure I topped it off and when I took off the radiator cap, saw a decent amount of orange brown sludge / gunk. Now I am thinking it would be best to do a coolant flush, or could I possibly by doing that make things worse off than just letting it stay? If I do, I have been reading a little, should I do the multi flush idea with distilled water for a couple until it's clear and then coolant or just change the coolant and be done with it or even just use the flush cleaner? And lastly, does anyone have a recommendation on what coolant is the best, I know the car did have its radiator replaced before I bought it and I do not think it's using the DEX anymore.

Thanks.

34 Replies · 2359 views

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90sbuickrescue

Jan 31, 2026

DrivenDaily, I believe a water softener's ion exchange is swapping calcium and magnesium for sodium and potassium, 2 "softer" ions. But table salt is sodium chloride, so if your water has sodium ions in it, to me that is still "salt", myself, I wouldn't put that in a cooling system. Those ions do show up on a tds/ec (total dissolved solids/electrical conductivity) meter, which measures the electrical conductivity of the water. Way I see it, just because it won't leave crud on your faucets, shower head, etc doesn't mean it won't facilitate corrosion, since 2 dissimilar metals in an electrically conductive solution creates a battery.

More on EC/TDS, have you measured your reverse osmosis water to see what it actually is? Without doing that, you won't know. If your incoming tap water is 6 or 700, maybe even 800 ppm, when that system starts putting out water, it'll be high at first, say 400 or 500, and then slowly drop down, over maybe a minute or so. A typical drinking water system that fills a pressurized tank will put a lot of high tds water into that tank, since it's always short cycling. A good system will drop it down into the single digits, like 4 ppm. The membrane actually does not allow only water molecules to pass though, it's pressure difference dependent. There is a calibrated restrictor on the bypass side, that creates a certain pressure drop. I can't remember exactly how this is set up, but I know when I went from a 75gpd to a 100 gpd membrane, I could not figure out why my tds wouldn't drop below 20 or 30 or so. Initially I suspected my new membrane was somehow bad, or that my input water pressure was too high, but I eventually learned that I needed a higher flow restrictor on the waste water side to match the higher flow membrane.

After thinking a little more about the DI water thing, it actually sort of makes sense why they would recommend that with their coolant. Since of course once it's mixed in with coolant, it's no longer DI anymore, if their mix has anything in it that makes it electrically conductive. I guess whatever they mix into it has the ability to inhibit corrosion, although I don't know how. I've heard of coolants described as "organic acid technology", which seems weird to me, like you'd want any kind of acid in your cooling system. ? To me it's more intuitive that you can have the coolant be somewhat electrically conductive if it is a base, or higher than 7 on the pH scale, because bases don't dissolve metal like acids. I just googled it and the general consensus seems to be that coolants are always basic, despite being made up of different chemicals or additives. I supposed I could measure it myself with my old hanna 98129 ec/tds/pH meter, but I doubt the pH probe is still good, after sitting for so long.

Reactions: DrivenDaily and BuickGirlFromMars

BuickGirlFromMars

Jan 31, 2026

90sbuickrescue said:
DrivenDaily, I believe a water softener's ion exchange is swapping calcium and magnesium for sodium and potassium, 2 "softer" ions. But table salt is sodium chloride, so if your water has sodium ions in it, to me that is still "salt", myself, I wouldn't put that in a cooling system. Those ions do show up on a tds/ec (total dissolved solids/electrical conductivity) meter, which measures the electrical conductivity of the water. Way I see it, just because it won't leave crud on your faucets, shower head, etc doesn't mean it won't facilitate corrosion, since 2 dissimilar metals in an electrically conductive solution creates a battery.

More on EC/TDS, have you measured your reverse osmosis water to see what it actually is? Without doing that, you won't know. If your incoming tap water is 6 or 700, maybe even 800 ppm, when that system starts putting out water, it'll be high at first, say 400 or 500, and then slowly drop down, over maybe a minute or so. A typical drinking water system that fills a pressurized tank will put a lot of high tds water into that tank, since it's always short cycling. A good system will drop it down into the single digits, like 4 ppm. The membrane actually does not allow only water molecules to pass though, it's pressure difference dependent. There is a calibrated restrictor on the bypass side, that creates a certain pressure drop. I can't remember exactly how this is set up, but I know when I went from a 75gpd to a 100 gpd membrane, I could not figure out why my tds wouldn't drop below 20 or 30 or so. Initially I suspected my new membrane was somehow bad, or that my input water pressure was too high, but I eventually learned that I needed a higher flow restrictor on the waste water side to match the higher flow membrane.

After thinking a little more about the DI water thing, it actually sort of makes sense why they would recommend that with their coolant. Since of course once it's mixed in with coolant, it's no longer DI anymore, if their mix has anything in it that makes it electrically conductive. I guess whatever they mix into it has the ability to inhibit corrosion, although I don't know how. I've heard of coolants described as "organic acid technology", which seems weird to me, like you'd want any kind of acid in your cooling system. ? To me it's more intuitive that you can have the coolant be somewhat electrically conductive if it is a base, or higher than 7 on the pH scale, because bases don't dissolve metal like acids. I just googled it and the general consensus seems to be that coolants are always basic, despite being made up of different chemicals or additives. I supposed I could measure it myself with my old hanna 98129 ec/tds/pH meter, but I doubt the pH probe is still good, after sitting for so long.

the acid technology keeps the aluminum from having a mineral corrosion buildup, the coolant also has parts that constantly refresh the surface between coolant and aluminum if any damage occurs, it prevents the galvanic forces of aluminum + cast iron which means the coolant does not behave as an electrolyte for that purpose, it lubricates seal in water pump, and keeps the corrosion of all metals down

Reactions: DrivenDaily

BuickGirlFromMars

May 9, 2026

something i found out that I did not know before:

However, there is a downside to all these aluminum components, and some nitrited coolants are notcompatible with the metal. Nitrite can react with Aluminum to form Ammonia, which increases the pH which causes corrosion and degradation to elastomers. In response to these issues, many OEMs call fornitrite-free coolants to be used with machines containing aluminum component

Reactions: NewLeSabreOwner

NewLeSabreOwner

May 10, 2026

BuickGirlFromMars said:
something i found out that I did not know before:

However, there is a downside to all these aluminum components, and some nitrited coolants are notcompatible with the metal. Nitrite can react with Aluminum to form Ammonia, which increases the pH which causes corrosion and degradation to elastomers. In response to these issues, many OEMs call fornitrite-free coolants to be used with machines containing aluminum component

Interesting. Ty

Reactions: BuickGirlFromMars

NewLeSabreOwner

Yesterday at 4:15 PM

Question for everyone. I did do the many flushes until clear, filled back up, burped the system and she is doing OK. Thank you for all the input. But I have noticed one thing change and thought I would see what you all have to say about it.

If I would look at coolant temp on the dashboard she would usually be around 205* while driving and then if sitting would get all the way up to like 220ish before the second fan would kick on. After doing the flush, now when driving even in this 98* heat, she is at around 192* and then if I sit again without the A/C on she only reaches like 208*. Should I be worried about this change at all? Think I should change the thermostat or my flushes could have hurt it at all. She still warms up like usual but am seeing now these lower driving temps and idle temps, esp in this heat just has me concerned.

2000ltd

Yesterday at 9:20 PM

I think your radiator is now flowing more efficiently and the coolant now is flowing with the correct balance of water to coolant ratio so is acting better. Just my opinion. I'd be happy with that result really.

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mlizotte

Last reply Yesterday at 7:40 PM · posted in Buick LeSabre Forum

oil pressure at 130, normal?

I have a 01 and a 04 lesabre I noticed the pressure is at 130, and says normal. Is that normal?

7 Replies · 230 views

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ulycyc

Wednesday at 1:33 PM

You may have the wrong sensor installed. Cold start up around 75-80 and hot driving 45-60. will vary with eng temps , rpm, and oil used

Reactions: 02LTD2.0

mlizotte

Wednesday at 1:39 PM

Thanks, still has the original part in both cars, since it says normal I never looked into it.

02LTD2.0

Yesterday at 4:15 PM

The sensors are OLD!! You should replace them soon or at the bare minimum at your next oil change. They could rupture and start spurting out oil. Ask me how I know.

Reactions: mlizotte

mlizotte

Yesterday at 7:00 PM

02LTD2.0 said:
The sensors are OLD!! You should replace them soon or at the bare minimum at your next oil change. They could rupture and start spurting out oil. Ask me how I know.

Can't seem to find a oem part. What brand did you guys get?

ulycyc

Yesterday at 7:40 PM

I installed a Standard products #PS-309T about 10 yrs ago. Still working great. I think I got it from Amazon. But any local box parts store will have it.

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Administrator

Staff member Lead Administrator

Yesterday at 3:50 PM · posted in Buick Enclave Forum

2026 Buick Enclave | POV Test Drive & Review

0 Replies · 54 views

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saab93driver

Last reply Yesterday at 1:00 PM · posted in Buick Classifieds

Sold my 2020 Regal Sportback...now Buickless have some items for sale

After 7 years I am now without a Buick Regal but I have some parts that could be useful to others. Before posting on Facebook group thought I'd give you all a shot at these:

2 steering wheels (stock, not GS) with buttons, from Essence trim so all button options - both in virtually new/very good condition, including the finish on buttons.
After market door handle cups, F and R,
1 set OEM floor mats with Regal on them,
1 set OEM floor mats with Avenir tag on the binding (very discreet)
1 set L & R New rocker panel covers for TourX (matt black plastic, never installed but kind of long so shipping might be pricey),
OEM TourX cross bars with keys, I bought used from owner who said he used them just a few time, I never had a chance to use them, they look pretty new
3D printed cell phone holder that was sold on Etsy for a while from forum member and the console tray from same vendor,
Canvasback full rear liner set for TourX with cargo flap - all black
2 OEM gauge clusters I removed when I swapped to GS cluster.
New gas pedal assembly (kept as spare, never had the issue)
New OEM Fuel door mechanism, newer design without electric lock

I'd prefer to bundle some of these if possible.. The big items like rocker covers and cross bars might be pricey to ship. Pickup or in Central Florida would be preferable.

PM me if interested

3 Replies · 151 views

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Paradoxian

Yesterday at 11:06 AM

Interested in cross bars and floor mats, but can't see how to PM you. Feel free to send me a message if you can.

Bill MeLater

Yesterday at 12:15 PM

Interested in the Canvasback, dm me if still available. Thanks GLWTS

94cruiser

Yesterday at 1:00 PM

1 set OEM floor mats with Regal on them,
please

Administrator

Staff member Lead Administrator

Last reply Yesterday at 12:51 PM · posted in The Buick Forums Lounge - Introduce Yourself

The Official "I Needed a Laugh" Picture Thread 📸

We all have those days where we just need a good laugh, so let’s get a dedicated discussion going for exactly that.

The rules are simple: If you see a picture, meme, or comic that makes you laugh, drop it here.

Keep it within the forum rules (let's keep the completely Not Safe For Work stuff out of here).
No politics or heavy drama - this is an escape from all of that!
Context is optional. Sometimes a weird photo with no explanation is the funniest part.

Let's see what you've got!

17 Replies · 1670 views

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ohioriver

Jun 17, 2026

A Sad Post

Reactions: Administrator

Administrator

Jun 18, 2026

ohioriver said:
A Sad Post
View attachment 50450

Very depressing! 😛

ohioriver

Tuesday at 12:19 PM

Reactions: Administrator

Administrator

Wednesday at 2:24 PM

ohioriver said:
View attachment 50479

I do wonder if this is real............ Hmm...

ohioriver

Yesterday at 12:51 PM

^^^Curious, you have to ask?

Permatex High Strength Threadlocker Red

Permatex High Strength Threadlocker Red - 27100

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LOCTITE® 243

Blue, medium-strength, primerless threadlocker

next.henkel-adhesives.com

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Rigo1G

Last reply Yesterday at 12:00 PM · posted in Buick Lucerne Forum

Fuel pump relay

My fuel pump relay has burnt out twice in less then a week. What could be causing it to do that?

9 Replies · 2272 views

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bchallus

Nov 16, 2025

I had the same exact problem and Movedon is 100% right. It's the bracket on the back seat which applies pressure on the fuse box, in turn applying pressure on the fuel pump fuse burning them out. You have to cut a piece of the seat bracket off and be weary of having too much weight in that back driver side seat. I burnt 3 fuses in about 3 weeks, and it also almost fried the entire fuse box. I took the fuse box out, and opened it up (which was very difficult to do). There are these little metal clips that hold the prongs to each fuse, that was toast and corroded from the repeated frying of fuses, so I took one out of the good looking clips out of a cigarette lighter that I never used, and put that on the fuel pump fuse spot that was faulty. Those little tiny metal clips were impossible to get so I had to makeshift it. Never happened again..

Although now the car at 79k is blowing smoke out of the tailpipe and i'm worried I have a blown head gasket with misfire cylinder 3 and service stabilitrak codes... Long story short, this car is very poorly designed and I would sell it ASAP before some BS happens to you

G-188193

Nov 16, 2025

bchallus said:
I had the same exact problem and Movedon is 100% right. It's the bracket on the back seat which applies pressure on the fuse box, in turn applying pressure on the fuel pump fuse burning them out. You have to cut a piece of the seat bracket off and be weary of having too much weight in that back driver side seat. I burnt 3 fuses in about 3 weeks, and it also almost fried the entire fuse box. I took the fuse box out, and opened it up (which was very difficult to do). There are these little metal clips that hold the prongs to each fuse, that was toast and corroded from the repeated frying of fuses, so I took one out of the good looking clips out of a cigarette lighter that I never used, and put that on the fuel pump fuse spot that was faulty. Those little tiny metal clips were impossible to get so I had to makeshift it. Never happened again..

Although now the car at 79k is blowing smoke out of the tailpipe and i'm worried I have a blown head gasket with misfire cylinder 3 and service stabilitrak codes... Long story short, this car is very poorly designed and I would sell it ASAP before some BS happens to you

This is all a VERY simple job to do. Had mine in and out in less than three minutes. What year is yours? Mainly meaning, what engine is in it? If a Northstar, the cylinder head bolt issue was MOSTLY fixed by the time it was in these. If is the 3.8, lower intake gaskets are common, and dead easy. If the 3.9...those are great engines. What colour is the smoke?

bchallus

Nov 20, 2025

G-188193 said:
This is all a VERY simple job to do. Had mine in and out in less than three minutes. What year is yours? Mainly meaning, what engine is in it? If a Northstar, the cylinder head bolt issue was MOSTLY fixed by the time it was in these. If is the 3.8, lower intake gaskets are common, and dead easy. If the 3.9...those are great engines. What colour is the smoke?

Sorry for the long read but I'm going to copy my original post for this to give you some background of exactly what is going on. Thank you for your time!

I'm trying to pinpoint a problem i'm having with my 2009 Buick Lucerne Super 4.6l Northstar V8. Recently it starts up rough and has cylinder 3 misfire code. Also throws a Service Stabilitrak message on and off, along with a check engine light, and white/grayish smoke out of the exhaust, more white than anything. I heard a faulty PCV valve can mimic signs of a blown head gasket. I changed the oil, no milkshake consistency or anything along those lines. Oil was about 2qts low even though it had "10%" oil life left. There has been no other signs of a blown head gasket minus the fact I can't seem to get the coolant levels correct after changing a thermostat a few months back. It clearly had air bubbles in the system because heat would blow cold until I revved it then it would come back hot. All of this being said I'm praying it's not a head gasket as the car only has 79k on it.

The check engine light and the service stablitrak message come on and off randomly, and after a few minutes of idling super rough it calms down and drives like normal. Also when I go to turn the car on for the first time, it starts to crank and cuts completely about 1 second in.. then turning the key off and back on it starts right up still idling super rough. The white smoke comes and goes randomly as I drive it, but always blows white smoke when it's idling rough.

My main questions are... Where the hell is the actual PCV valve, and can it really replicate signs of blown head gasket with signs of white smoke out of the tailpipe, and cylinder 3 misfires like I read online? I hear that the PCV system is inside of the intake manifold and there isn't just a valve you can replace. I'm lost with this car because there is hardly anything left that I can figure out to help me learn if my car is a tin can, or if it's still worth about 7k. PLEASE someone help me with some intricate opinions on what is really going on, PCV locations and systems (if it even has a valve), and what to do now.

2007LucerneCXL

Nov 20, 2025

Again as this is 2nd post, check the Cadillac DTS forum as they have more experience on the Northstar also have the vehicle scanned for codes both active and stored. #238 is the PCV hose and assume it's inside the intake manifold, beyond that I have no additional information.

Joseph napier

Yesterday at 12:00 PM

Rigo1G said:
My fuel pump relay has burnt out twice in less then a week. What could be causing it to do that?

Replace the fuse block

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TRIFECTA

Authorized Vendor

Last reply Yesterday at 9:40 AM · posted in 2018+ Buick Regal Sportback and TourX Forum

Wagon Wednesday

Post up those amazing TourX wagons!

33 Replies · 3485 views

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KMac66

Mar 22, 2026

Reactions: Administrator, kevinmogee, Foxbat and 7 others

wi_badger

Apr 2, 2026

Not the best picture but rarely do I find another TourX to park next to for a photo.

Reactions: Administrator, pts79 and TRIFECTA

kevinmogee

Jun 7, 2026

KMac66 said:
View attachment 50173

What wheels are those? They look sick!

MonZZZ17

Jun 16, 2026

Perfect parking placement!

original_c96aff89-f490-4853-a3c7-528c46cd3dab_PXL_20240605_160033817.webp

Reactions: visitor, TRIFECTA and FavaBean

Buckjoe

Jun 25, 2026

wi_badger said:
Not the best picture but rarely do I find another TourX to park next to for a photo.

Quite surprising to see another red TourX when I left the restaurant.

Reactions: D2R and Stovetop

Chef jpd

Saturday at 5:14 PM

Installed Thule areobars and a motion 3 XL low box in titan grey.
I'm officially sporty.
Pics to follow

Chef jpd

Yesterday at 9:40 AM

20260702_085657 by chefjpd, on Flickr

Reactions: Stovetop, MonZZZ17 and TRIFECTA

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