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Some time ago I bought an old Buick Lucerne 2006 (85k miles) as a project car. The seller said that the car is totally fine because the GM service run diagnostic, it only needs new ECM to be reprogrammed. It was definitely a pig in a poke but I bought it for really cheap so it was worth a try.
What is the problem?
New battery, no crank, no start, no communication with ECM, a lot of shorts on different electronics around the body.
As soon as battery connected, the voltage drops from 12 to 5-6 immediately. No power to the fuse box under the hood.
What did I do to investigate?
1. I checked mostly all grounds, including the ones for the bcm under the passenger seat, cleaned corroded ones, and replaced screws for them. I didn't reach for the ground somewhere behind the engine though.
2. I've tried 2 different ECM and 3 different BCM. No luck there.
3. I replaced all the fuses and tightened the fuse box under the hood. It sorted out all the "shorts" which were showing on the scanner before. No big luck, but at least something.
4. I disconnected all the electronics which are known for parasitic draws — overhead lamps near sunshades; 2 front doors (they were weirdly ticking for some reason); alternator (because it's connected to the battery directly); the dimming switch on the left side near the steering wheel; the full glove box. The main harness under the hood seems to be getting power but still no luck.
5. I powered up the battery with a jumper, drain was still there but at least I could scan for codes one more time after all the manipulation and these codes are still there:
B3600:03 — Passenger compartment dimming request signal circuit low voltage
(Which is weird, because I disconnected it, but I have to check it one more time)
This code is for most of the systems — engine electrical, automatic transaxle, anti-lock brake system, BCM, body rear end, park brake.
The other one is B1001:00 — Sensing and Diagnostic Module (SDM) option configuration error. (Under the category: supplemental inflatable restraint)
*These codes are left only because of my manipulation with the jumper. I've attached the original PDF with codes list when I have only 5v on the battery. It's just to see the difference with all of my manipulations.
My questions:
1. I have an Autel Maxisys MS908pro, I believe the tool can reprogram both ECM and BCM to match the VIN. Am I right?
2. What do I do next? Where should I look next? Get under the car, disconnect the starter, check that one last ground and check the main positive cable? Ignition switch fault maybe and I need to replace it?
3. I also have 2 grounds stocked on each other on the transmission on the right side. Is it ok? I've read that it is ok, if they sit tight with no corrosion or paint.
Please give me some help and sacred knowledge on this Buick. I have no idea why ECM is not powering up as well as the main fuse box.
I'm not experienced with car electronics so if you can provide detailed suggestions and explanations, I would really appreciate it. I'm open to try any ideas and I would be glad to clarify anything if I missed something describing the issue.
Thanks in advance.
What is the problem?
New battery, no crank, no start, no communication with ECM, a lot of shorts on different electronics around the body.
As soon as battery connected, the voltage drops from 12 to 5-6 immediately. No power to the fuse box under the hood.
What did I do to investigate?
1. I checked mostly all grounds, including the ones for the bcm under the passenger seat, cleaned corroded ones, and replaced screws for them. I didn't reach for the ground somewhere behind the engine though.
2. I've tried 2 different ECM and 3 different BCM. No luck there.
3. I replaced all the fuses and tightened the fuse box under the hood. It sorted out all the "shorts" which were showing on the scanner before. No big luck, but at least something.
4. I disconnected all the electronics which are known for parasitic draws — overhead lamps near sunshades; 2 front doors (they were weirdly ticking for some reason); alternator (because it's connected to the battery directly); the dimming switch on the left side near the steering wheel; the full glove box. The main harness under the hood seems to be getting power but still no luck.
5. I powered up the battery with a jumper, drain was still there but at least I could scan for codes one more time after all the manipulation and these codes are still there:
B3600:03 — Passenger compartment dimming request signal circuit low voltage
(Which is weird, because I disconnected it, but I have to check it one more time)
This code is for most of the systems — engine electrical, automatic transaxle, anti-lock brake system, BCM, body rear end, park brake.
The other one is B1001:00 — Sensing and Diagnostic Module (SDM) option configuration error. (Under the category: supplemental inflatable restraint)
*These codes are left only because of my manipulation with the jumper. I've attached the original PDF with codes list when I have only 5v on the battery. It's just to see the difference with all of my manipulations.
My questions:
1. I have an Autel Maxisys MS908pro, I believe the tool can reprogram both ECM and BCM to match the VIN. Am I right?
2. What do I do next? Where should I look next? Get under the car, disconnect the starter, check that one last ground and check the main positive cable? Ignition switch fault maybe and I need to replace it?
3. I also have 2 grounds stocked on each other on the transmission on the right side. Is it ok? I've read that it is ok, if they sit tight with no corrosion or paint.
Please give me some help and sacred knowledge on this Buick. I have no idea why ECM is not powering up as well as the main fuse box.
I'm not experienced with car electronics so if you can provide detailed suggestions and explanations, I would really appreciate it. I'm open to try any ideas and I would be glad to clarify anything if I missed something describing the issue.
Thanks in advance.
6 Replies
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1073 views
After 7 years I am now without a Buick Regal but I have some parts that could be useful to others. Before posting on Facebook group thought I'd give you all a shot at these:
2 steering wheels (stock, not GS) with buttons, from Essence trim so all button options - both in virtually new/very good condition, including the finish on buttons.
After market door handle cups, F and R,
1 set OEM floor mats with Regal on them,
1 set OEM floor mats with Avenir tag on the binding (very discreet)
1 set L & R New rocker panel covers for TourX (matt black plastic, never installed but kind of long so shipping might be pricey),
OEM TourX cross bars with keys, I bought used from owner who said he used them just a few time, I never had a chance to use them, they look pretty new
3D printed cell phone holder that was sold on Etsy for a while from forum member and the console tray from same vendor,
Canvasback full rear liner set for TourX with cargo flap - all black
2 OEM gauge clusters I removed when I swapped to GS cluster.
New gas pedal assembly (kept as spare, never had the issue)
New OEM Fuel door mechanism, newer design without electric lock
I'd prefer to bundle some of these if possible.. The big items like rocker covers and cross bars might be pricey to ship. Pickup or in Central Florida would be preferable.
PM me if interested
2 steering wheels (stock, not GS) with buttons, from Essence trim so all button options - both in virtually new/very good condition, including the finish on buttons.
After market door handle cups, F and R,
1 set OEM floor mats with Regal on them,
1 set OEM floor mats with Avenir tag on the binding (very discreet)
1 set L & R New rocker panel covers for TourX (matt black plastic, never installed but kind of long so shipping might be pricey),
OEM TourX cross bars with keys, I bought used from owner who said he used them just a few time, I never had a chance to use them, they look pretty new
3D printed cell phone holder that was sold on Etsy for a while from forum member and the console tray from same vendor,
Canvasback full rear liner set for TourX with cargo flap - all black
2 OEM gauge clusters I removed when I swapped to GS cluster.
New gas pedal assembly (kept as spare, never had the issue)
New OEM Fuel door mechanism, newer design without electric lock
I'd prefer to bundle some of these if possible.. The big items like rocker covers and cross bars might be pricey to ship. Pickup or in Central Florida would be preferable.
PM me if interested
3 Replies
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55 views
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We all have those days where we just need a good laugh, so let’s get a dedicated discussion going for exactly that.
The rules are simple: If you see a picture, meme, or comic that makes you laugh, drop it here.
The rules are simple: If you see a picture, meme, or comic that makes you laugh, drop it here.
- Keep it within the forum rules (let's keep the completely Not Safe For Work stuff out of here).
- No politics or heavy drama - this is an escape from all of that!
- Context is optional. Sometimes a weird photo with no explanation is the funniest part.
17 Replies
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1613 views
^^^Curious, you have to ask?
www.acmetools.com
Permatex High Strength Threadlocker Red
Permatex High Strength Threadlocker Red - 27100
www.acmetools.com
Last fall I bought a 1998 Buick Century with only 57,000 miles from an old relative who rarely drove. The A/C and everything else worked perfectly last fall. But this spring I used the A/C and it wasn't blowing cold. I drove 10 miles home with the AC "on", and the second I get home and put it in park the radiator hose blew off soaking everything with coolant. I'm guessing the small pressure ripple caused the clamp to jump a tooth or something dumb) Nothing was broken, the top radiator hose simply popped off the engine barb. I refilled it and used the same hose, which was in perfect shape.
While trying to diagnose my A/C issues, I confirmed the fans DO turn on when I disconnect the coolant temp probe connector (ECU demands fans when it can't read the probe I've found out by testing). I jumpered the A/C clutch relay and it DOES engage the A/C compressor. The refrigerant has proper pressure (so not a leaked refrigerant issue). I cannot figure out why the ECU will not let the A/C system run. I even installed a new coolant temp sensor into the engine, no change.
The cooling fans never want to come on when the temp gauge goes over 50% (but temp never goes more than say 55% to red, (and evidently they don't come on until it is REALLY hot?), but the fans both work fine when the ECU demands them.
So I've been without A/C all summer. One time we accidentally left the A/C knob on "norm" for 20 minutes which heated up the antifreeze enough to cause a "low coolant" light to flash on the dash. I confirmed there was enough coolant, so I drained half, pulled the antifreeze level sensor, scrubbed the sensor prong itself (just a metal post) and reinstalled and refilled my coolant, burped it, went for a drive, and the low coolant light is ack on even though its full.
Another annoying quirk with this car is no trunk release, ONLY the keyfob button (never experienced that in any car, not even a glove box button). Also, when I push the door's LOCK switch, i have to hit it TWICE, it beeps once as if I have headlights on or something (I don't) and its warning me it doesn't want to lock on the first press... Is this normal behavior for this car?
I do NOT want to pay dealership prices to have this diagnosed, and am hoping someone here has more knowledge than I do, and have some input on my issues here relating to no A/C and heating up the coolant / false low level warnings. I thought I had scored a great condition car, but everything is spiraling down all of a sudden.
While trying to diagnose my A/C issues, I confirmed the fans DO turn on when I disconnect the coolant temp probe connector (ECU demands fans when it can't read the probe I've found out by testing). I jumpered the A/C clutch relay and it DOES engage the A/C compressor. The refrigerant has proper pressure (so not a leaked refrigerant issue). I cannot figure out why the ECU will not let the A/C system run. I even installed a new coolant temp sensor into the engine, no change.
The cooling fans never want to come on when the temp gauge goes over 50% (but temp never goes more than say 55% to red, (and evidently they don't come on until it is REALLY hot?), but the fans both work fine when the ECU demands them.
So I've been without A/C all summer. One time we accidentally left the A/C knob on "norm" for 20 minutes which heated up the antifreeze enough to cause a "low coolant" light to flash on the dash. I confirmed there was enough coolant, so I drained half, pulled the antifreeze level sensor, scrubbed the sensor prong itself (just a metal post) and reinstalled and refilled my coolant, burped it, went for a drive, and the low coolant light is ack on even though its full.
Another annoying quirk with this car is no trunk release, ONLY the keyfob button (never experienced that in any car, not even a glove box button). Also, when I push the door's LOCK switch, i have to hit it TWICE, it beeps once as if I have headlights on or something (I don't) and its warning me it doesn't want to lock on the first press... Is this normal behavior for this car?
I do NOT want to pay dealership prices to have this diagnosed, and am hoping someone here has more knowledge than I do, and have some input on my issues here relating to no A/C and heating up the coolant / false low level warnings. I thought I had scored a great condition car, but everything is spiraling down all of a sudden.
1 Replies
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222 views
Replaced 2.4 engine 2014 verano having an air lock issue. Runs for 20 min fine then temp gage goes up and down. Appears air is trapped in the system. Any help ? Thanks
0 Replies
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107 views
Still looking for a solution to replacing the balancer bolt for a 2005 Buick Century 3.1L SE. I've ordered an ARP 120-2501 balancer bolt (says it fits this car) but I'm out of other options. If this doesn't fit, what other options are there?
34 Replies
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1258 views
C
Here is a link to a Grade 10.9 M12x1.5x45 bolt -
belmetric.com
While it is not TTY, it should be strong enough for your application.
Or, you can order ARP M12x1.5x45 bolts from Summit Racing - https://www.summitracing.com/parts/arp-664-1005?seid=srese1
M12X1.5 OEM Hex Flange Bolt - Steel 10.9 Zinc Flake
Bel-Metric sells metric hardware & specialty automotive supplies worldwide. Visit our website to purchase metric fasteners, nuts, bolts, screws, washers & more.
belmetric.com
While it is not TTY, it should be strong enough for your application.
Or, you can order ARP M12x1.5x45 bolts from Summit Racing - https://www.summitracing.com/parts/arp-664-1005?seid=srese1
S
I do know that at the dealership near by, they reuse those bolts for what it is worth. I also know I have reused them too at our shop with no issue, not to say that it can't happen. All things are possible. However, if a ARP replacement can be found, then that is great. The 3.1L was a very heavily used engine across GMs lineup for several decades, the possibility of there not being a single option makes very little sense. I know that engine was used through and may have been phased out just after the 2005 model year, which I think was the last year before it was replaced by the 3.4L. I think, it's been a minute. All that said, there were millions of those engines and it's variants floating around world wide.
If Dorman does not have one, then making a plea to ARP to produce one specifically for the 3.1L with torque specs should be considered and may take the community to back a representative or just flood their inbox.
I think this is the best alternative. I have heard very little negative stuff about ARP, and there is a decent chance the replacement will not be TTY. A re-useable replacement would be ideal in either case. I don't do wrench work professionally anymore except for myself these days. I do deal in obsolete auto parts though.Here is a link to a Grade 10.9 M12x1.5x45 bolt -
M12X1.5 OEM Hex Flange Bolt - Steel 10.9 Zinc Flake
Bel-Metric sells metric hardware & specialty automotive supplies worldwide. Visit our website to purchase metric fasteners, nuts, bolts, screws, washers & more.
While it is not TTY, it should be strong enough for your application.
Or, you can order ARP M12x1.5x45 bolts from Summit Racing - https://www.summitracing.com/parts/arp-664-1005?seid=srese1
I do know that at the dealership near by, they reuse those bolts for what it is worth. I also know I have reused them too at our shop with no issue, not to say that it can't happen. All things are possible. However, if a ARP replacement can be found, then that is great. The 3.1L was a very heavily used engine across GMs lineup for several decades, the possibility of there not being a single option makes very little sense. I know that engine was used through and may have been phased out just after the 2005 model year, which I think was the last year before it was replaced by the 3.4L. I think, it's been a minute. All that said, there were millions of those engines and it's variants floating around world wide.
If Dorman does not have one, then making a plea to ARP to produce one specifically for the 3.1L with torque specs should be considered and may take the community to back a representative or just flood their inbox.
Chad Cremer
For Sale 86/87/90 Riviera for sale
Testing the waters, In South Dakota, i have a 1986, 1987 - both complete but need work, and a 1990 w rear damage parts car I may be willing to part with. the 86 was my old high school car, and wanted to restore it, but money, time, and well, life has me thinking it may be time to pass them on.
[email protected]
[email protected]
0 Replies
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95 views
Bought a super clean 2010 Buick Lucerne that was hit in the drivers side. Needs both doors. Let's document and descibe the process.
3 Replies
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147 views
Hi I'm Jay Elwood, friends call me Woody. My peers in the body shop business call me Wonder Woody. Ha!
I have been in the body shop business since the late 60's
My great-grandfather started Dever's Truck Body in Trotwood Ohio, it was incorporated in 1903 (The same year as Harley-Davidson and Ford) and it is still in operation today. As a child I grew up in the body shop and sweeping floors and by 13 years old I was welding hammering and painting..
I live in Dayton Ohio, in Dayton Ohio we have America's Packard Museum. Beautiful place!
They own President Eisenhower's personal 1947 Packard standard convertible.
You can see that 1947 Packard Standard convertible in the oscar-winning movie 'Carol' shot in Cincinnati.
In 2005-2006 I restored that car for (and at) the Packard Museum, I only did body and Chassis, others did the Mechanicals -brakes engines ..and others did the interior.. but I did the body.
Actress Marra Rooney (sp?) And Cate Blanchett ride around in it .. it's the green Packard convertible.. but I should warn you it's a chick flick..!!
I just found a super clean Ultra nice 2010 Lucerne, 63k Miles !! That was hit in the side. Only needed 2 doors Drivers side, Unbolt the bent doors, bolt on used doors of the same color.. I'm going to document this in the forum for repairing Buicks.. Love this Lucerne !
I have been in the body shop business since the late 60's
My great-grandfather started Dever's Truck Body in Trotwood Ohio, it was incorporated in 1903 (The same year as Harley-Davidson and Ford) and it is still in operation today. As a child I grew up in the body shop and sweeping floors and by 13 years old I was welding hammering and painting..
I live in Dayton Ohio, in Dayton Ohio we have America's Packard Museum. Beautiful place!
They own President Eisenhower's personal 1947 Packard standard convertible.
You can see that 1947 Packard Standard convertible in the oscar-winning movie 'Carol' shot in Cincinnati.
In 2005-2006 I restored that car for (and at) the Packard Museum, I only did body and Chassis, others did the Mechanicals -brakes engines ..and others did the interior.. but I did the body.
Actress Marra Rooney (sp?) And Cate Blanchett ride around in it .. it's the green Packard convertible.. but I should warn you it's a chick flick..!!
I just found a super clean Ultra nice 2010 Lucerne, 63k Miles !! That was hit in the side. Only needed 2 doors Drivers side, Unbolt the bent doors, bolt on used doors of the same color.. I'm going to document this in the forum for repairing Buicks.. Love this Lucerne !
1 Replies
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153 views
How hard it is to switch out the a/c Compressor
2 Replies
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256 views
