2013 Encore transmission drain and fill

[wymerm]

This is a "sealed" transmission. The drain plug is located above an oblong cut-out in the splash guard. It's a 7/16 and not your typical looking drain plug and should be torqued to spec. when put back in (12 ft.lbs. I believe). Loosen the plug and drain into a pan and then transfer it into containers so you can add the same amount back into the transmission. This is where I became baffled. There is no dipstick. The cap is very hard to see as it is kind of tucked under the oil filter and under a coolant hose. I almost gave up as I had never seen this before and was contemplating towing it to a garage believe it or not....lol. Remove the cap and place the same amount back in (I used Valvoline ATF full synthetic). To do this the "right" way there is an 11mm. bolt that should be removed and when the transmission is at operating temperature you want just a few small drops to be coming out, not a stream but some and that is the "ideal" level. You should be fine though if you take your time matching up what you remove with what you put back in. Mine took just slightly over a gallon. You should probably do this two more times over a couple week period to make sure you've swapped out almost all the old fluid. I could find nothing on line about this at all. Good luck!

 

[EncoreOne]

Thank for this Great tip. I have 2016 Encore will do this this spring when I get to 50,000 Miles. I did this to my 2014 Equinox lots of Videos out there how to do this with the Equinox. All must the same procedure. Thank you again.

 

[MelsRegal]

Am I correct in assuming from you description you didnt drop the pan and change the filter?

 

[GoMich]

There is no Pan to drop. To change the filter you have to split transmission case in two halves to access it. Proper way to change fluid is to fill new oil into fill plug on top while having transmission pump old fluid from cooling line. this way you exchange all used fluid from torque converter and sump. If you just drain fluid from drain plug, you get only 1/2 of volume since torque converter is sealed. And dont worry about filter leave it alone. basically draining the fluid and adding new oil to only 50% of fluid volume is not worth doing.

 

[TheAirman]

This is a "sealed" transmission. The drain plug is located above an oblong cut-out in the splash guard. It's a 7/16 and not your typical looking drain plug and should be torqued to spec. when put back in (12 ft.lbs. I believe). Loosen the plug and drain into a pan and then transfer it into containers so you can add the same amount back into the transmission. This is where I became baffled. There is no dipstick. The cap is very hard to see as it is kind of tucked under the oil filter and under a coolant hose. I almost gave up as I had never seen this before and was contemplating towing it to a garage believe it or not....lol. Remove the cap and place the same amount back in (I used Valvoline ATF full synthetic). To do this the "right" way there is an 11mm. bolt that should be removed and when the transmission is at operating temperature you want just a few small drops to be coming out, not a stream but some and that is the "ideal" level. You should be fine though if you take your time matching up what you remove with what you put back in. Mine took just slightly over a gallon. You should probably do this two more times over a couple week period to make sure you've swapped out almost all the old fluid. I could find nothing on line about this at all. Good luck!

Good write-up and pretty close to what the factory workshop manual says.

But..... the manual is very specific on using ONLY Dexron VI. Also the drain plug torque is (106 lb in), about (8.5 to 9 lb ft).

Next the manual states the tranny MUST be at 185- 203 deg. F (measured with test equipment) in order to check for the proper level. AND, the vehicle must be running to check it. Otherwise you could over or under fill the transmission.

So....... after you have put your fluid back in, bring the tranny up to operating temperature, put the car level on a lift, and with the car idling, then remove the oil level set plug.

If the fluid comes out as a stream, wait until the fluid begins to drip out. If no fluid drips out, add fluid with the engine running until the fluid begins to drip.

Fluid capacity is 8.5 quarts.

 

[Zeroboostbuick]

Good write-up and pretty close to what the factory workshop manual says.

But..... the manual is very specific on using ONLY Dexron VI. Also the drain plug torque is (106 lb in), about (8.5 to 9 lb ft).

Next the manual states the tranny MUST be at 185- 203 deg. F (measured with test equipment) in order to check for the proper level. AND, the vehicle must be running to check it. Otherwise you could over or under fill the transmission.

So....... after you have put your fluid back in, bring the tranny up to operating temperature, put the car level on a lift, and with the car idling, then remove the oil level set plug.

If the fluid comes out as a stream, wait until the fluid begins to drip out. If no fluid drips out, add fluid with the engine running until the fluid begins to drip.

Fluid capacity is 8.5 quarts.

Thank you for adding to this thread and pointing out the finer details for this operation.

 

[ngzcaz]

Our 2015 Subaru Crosstrex has the " sealed " trans as well. It's a CVT but the trans oil level check sounds identical. It's one of the dumbest things I've come across in over 50 years of owning cars and trucks. I received a letter from Subaru that it was extending the factory warranty on these transmissions to 10 years due to the catastrophe cost of replacing the transmissions and obviously customers not returning to buy new ones. I was disappointed in learning the Encores have a similar (albeit not necessarily a CVT ) sealed trans. I've been looking at the 2013 to 2015 models for purchase... now I'm thinking... meh

 

[G-724899]

Am I correct in assuming from you description you didnt drop the pan and change the filter?

No I didn't drop the pan.

 

[DocBrown]

Sealed systems are the norm now. The only vehicles I've had in the past 15 years that have transmission dip sticks are my 1/2 ton trucks and full sized SUVs with V8s. Otherwise everything is going to sealed systems.

There are 2 maintenance schedules for every vehicle. If you look at the manual for the Encore, in the Normal maintenance schedule it does not need trans fluid changed. My 2006 HHR with 159k on it also has the sealed system. I have never changed the fluid in it and I can be pretty hard on that car. It shows no signs of issues. In general late model GMs do not have transmission issues.

 

[G-966494]

Sealed systems are the norm now. The only vehicles I've had in the past 15 years that have transmission dip sticks are my 1/2 ton trucks and full sized SUVs with V8s. Otherwise everything is going to sealed systems.

There are 2 maintenance schedules for every vehicle. If you look at the manual for the Encore, in the Normal maintenance schedule it does not need trans fluid changed. My 2006 HHR with 159k on it also has the sealed system. I have never changed the fluid in it and I can be pretty hard on that car. It shows no signs of issues. In general late model GMs do not have transmission issues.

I realize that it's part of the " norm " now a days but SOMETHING, aka wear, is going on in any transmission. It's impossible for it not to be happening. Why do you think engine oil changes are still the norm ? And filters ? Because there is wear. You can see it on a dipstick for engine oil. You can't see it easily on a sealed transmission unless there is at least a drain plug and fill plug. Most manufacturers base the cost of a vehicle on many factors, one of them being maintenance items. Yes some will last a long time, some won't. As we all know no one's going to make a car that will last 20 to 25 years with no parts to sell. And how about the dealers ? What are they supposed to do after the sale ? The result would be far fewer dealers in business and the car makers would be selling far less vehicles.. That's not a combination for a thriving economy. Maybe I'm old school, but I'd like the option to at least change the fluid and maybe the filter every 50k or so... I'm not sure about the Encore but the Subaru does have a drain plug.. also a stupid side fill hole. There is no dip stick however. And it is a " sealed " transmission. So you can kinda change the tranny oil but it's an incomplete change at best. Just look at Wymer, Go Mich, and The Airman's posts.. For a guy that wants to insure long trouble free service, a sealed transmission doesn't make sense, especially after 100K. That said, I'd love to see posts from guys having well over 100k with these Encores. There must be a few around I would imagine. And I would be happy to see them.. wouldn't change my mind about being a dumb idea but it would be nice to see that an American ( well make the South Korea ) company/manufacturer is making a product that lasts a long time.. And btw, I'm glad your GM trannys are holding up for you. I really am, I just don't think everyone is having the same experience as you are.

 

[DocBrown]

And btw, I'm glad your GM trannys are holding up for you. I really am, I just don't think everyone is having the same experience as you are.

I typically keep my vehicles until they are well over 150k miles. I did have to have a transmission rebuilt on a '93 Grand Am, but not until it had about 130k on it. I also bought that car with 107k on it, and it was required to change the fluid every 50k. I had no clue if the previous owner(s) did that. Everyone may not have the same experiences as me, but I'm am on a lot of car/truck forums and I just don't see GM transmissions as being an issue. That's something that someone would have to prove to me. I've always followed manufacturers recommendations and have gotten the most out of my vehicles. I don't see how cars with 200k+ is a detriment to the dealers and manufactures. There was a time when a car was pretty much end of life at 75k miles. I don't miss those days at all.

 

[KevinJ]

2013 Buick Verano Turbo. Also a sealed transmission, my first. I personally think it is ridiculous. I do almost all of my own maintenance. For me it is/was always normal to check all the fluids during an oil change. For the tranny, I always liked to check the color and the smell. If it is not red and "clean" or if any burnt oil smell, then you know it is time for a service or worse that something was going bad. If you catch something going wrong early enough and you might be able to avoid a complete rebuild or replacement. Now your forced to drive it until it starts to crap out, no opportunity to catch it early.

 

[G-918834]

This is a "sealed" transmission. The drain plug is located above an oblong cut-out in the splash guard. It's a 7/16 and not your typical looking drain plug and should be torqued to spec. when put back in (12 ft.lbs. I believe). Loosen the plug and drain into a pan and then transfer it into containers so you can add the same amount back into the transmission. This is where I became baffled. There is no dipstick. The cap is very hard to see as it is kind of tucked under the oil filter and under a coolant hose. I almost gave up as I had never seen this before and was contemplating towing it to a garage believe it or not....lol. Remove the cap and place the same amount back in (I used Valvoline ATF full synthetic). To do this the "right" way there is an 11mm. bolt that should be removed and when the transmission is at operating temperature you want just a few small drops to be coming out, not a stream but some and that is the "ideal" level. You should be fine though if you take your time matching up what you remove with what you put back in. Mine took just slightly over a gallon. You should probably do this two more times over a couple week period to make sure you've swapped out almost all the old fluid. I could find nothing on line about this at all. Good luck!

Where exactly is the side mounted bolt to check the level? I wasn't able to visually see a bolt that looked like a fill plug on the side. Thanks -Frank

 

[Zeroboostbuick]

Where exactly is the side mounted bolt to check the level? I wasn't able to visually see a bolt that looked like a fill plug on the side. Thanks -Frank

Probably behind the wheel well plastic cover.

 

[Again]

Let me shed some light on this if I may. First of all there is a filler cap. Second there is a drain plug and thirdly there is an oil level plug. Transmission dip sticks became obsolete because the majority of people weren't using it right and overfilled their transmission leading to failures.

At about 50,000 miles ( 80,000 kms ) I stick my pinky finger in the oil level hole and pull out a sample of transmission fluid, if it is nice and clear red, I leave it be.

Taken from 2016 Trax/Encore service manual.

Fastener Torque Specification.

 

[Zeroboostbuick]

Again, great response. Thank you.

 

[Again]

Old school mechanics want to get in and change fluids. If it ain't broke don't touch it.

 

[DocBrown]

X2. The only reason a modern transmission would need a fluid change is if it's been really beat on. Hauling heavy loads, towing, hard driving, etc. Heat is a transmission's enemy. If a sealed transmission is driven normally and does not leak, the fluid doesn't need to be changed.

 

[Zeroboostbuick]

Automatic Trans fluid should be changed every 6 or 7 years for normal driving and every 4 to 5 years if it's been beat on.

But more importantly, use the original manufacturers fluid or a fluid that is proven to be better than original.

There is one thing about newer GM transmissions that is a big benefit to the owners. These newer transmissions have Adaptive Learning and can compensate for wear on the clutches and other wear along with fluid degradation. They also learn the driving habits of the driver and adjust accordingly. Tho these adaptive learning parameters are not 100% fool proof, they do a pretty good job overall.

 

[ThatsNotABuick!]

If a sealed transmission is driven normally and does not leak, the fluid doesn't need to be changed.

Completely false. I do market analysis on all of a certain type of transmissions for a non-GM company. I recommend that people change their fluid every 30K miles if they want their transmission to live a long life. ATF properties do not stay the same throughout the life of the fluid. There are changes in viscosity and other properties as you accumulate miles on them. Along with that, the clutches inside the transmission are a wear item and will eventually contaminate the fluid.

Even if you stay within "normal" transmission temperatures, the fluid has a finite life. I admit that if you keep your fluid below 180F all the time that you can get long life out your fluid, but most people exceed that value, even with simple stop and go traffic. Also, most cars do not have ATF temperature gauges and even fewer people would actually look at it.