Check Engine Light P0299 - Turbo Underboost

[Again]

Also if you can reach in and remove the oil and water at the bottom of the intercooler this will help stop contamination of the boost and temperature sensor that lays not to far in the outlet pipe. Either by siphonig it or pushing in a rag and dabbing at it. Tilting the Encore passenger side higher will also help the muck flow towards the outlet pipe.

On my Trax I just drilled a little hole on the far right and let drip then screwed in a small stainless steel self tapping screw to plug the hole. Comes in handy actually, before winter I just undo the screw let it drip and screw it back in.

 

[lil_luxury]

Here is my experience with the dreaded P0299 code. Was looking for an AWD encore with not terrible number of miles and lots of features. Anything with lower miles under 60k and a few years old were still very expensive. Then saw a 2013 Encore on dealerships ‘pre-auction lot’ meaning it wouldn’t be sold like normal. Definitely a red flag. Seemed ok but couldn’t take it far to get a feel. Told a mechanic friend and he noted they were known for turbo issues but he could swap out if needed.

My guess is the dealership reset the light and figured as long as test drives are only around the lot it won’t come on for a customer. With only a little over 50k miles it was probably 4k less than comparable models with similar miles. So I pulled the trigger and grabbed it.

Ran ok and figured since I work remote maybe can make it a year then replace turbo. But the light came on and off reporting the P0299 code each time. Then one day it went into limp mode not far from home. I turned off and back on and then it ran ok. But at that point figured it was time to replace.

Once turbo was off it was obvious the issue was the turbo was cracked. See pic. Also, looking at the oil line it is super narrow and while not clogged the oil in there was fairly thick. So if oil gets clogged then the actuator/wastegate may not get the lubrication needed to open and close properly. Heat builds up and you have cracks. Not sure there is a better design but all the videos I saw the oil feed line was always clogged.

Because you can’t see these cracks unless off completely dealers might try to do things to repair. It seems like if you get the code then plan on swapping out the turbo. It’s a shame when the dealership messes around trying other things when they know the turbo is probably shot. I’d be sure to use synthetic as well just due to the narrow feed line and lesser quality oil might cause clogs.

Also if you do this yourself best to get replacements of all three lines -> oil feed, oil return and coolant. Chances are the failure of one of those is what caused the problem in the first place.

Runs great now and with all the nice features I’m calling her lil’ luxury.

 

[Busted33]

Here is my experience with the dreaded P0299 code. Was looking for an AWD encore with not terrible number of miles and lots of features. Anything with lower miles under 60k and a few years old were still very expensive. Then saw a 2013 Encore on dealerships ‘pre-auction lot’ meaning it wouldn’t be sold like normal. Definitely a red flag. Seemed ok but couldn’t take it far to get a feel. Told a mechanic friend and he noted they were known for turbo issues but he could swap out if needed.

My guess is the dealership reset the light and figured as long as test drives are only around the lot it won’t come on for a customer. With only a little over 50k miles it was probably 4k less than comparable models with similar miles. So I pulled the trigger and grabbed it.

Ran ok and figured since I work remote maybe can make it a year then replace turbo. But the light came on and off reporting the P0299 code each time. Then one day it went into limp mode not far from home. I turned off and back on and then it ran ok. But at that point figured it was time to replace.

Once turbo was off it was obvious the issue was the turbo was cracked. See pic. Also, looking at the oil line it is super narrow and while not clogged the oil in there was fairly thick. So if oil gets clogged then the actuator/wastegate may not get the lubrication needed to open and close properly. Heat builds up and you have cracks. Not sure there is a better design but all the videos I saw the oil feed line was always clogged.

Because you can’t see these cracks unless off completely dealers might try to do things to repair. It seems like if you get the code then plan on swapping out the turbo. It’s a shame when the dealership messes around trying other things when they know the turbo is probably shot. I’d be sure to use synthetic as well just due to the narrow feed line and lesser quality oil might cause clogs.

Also if you do this yourself best to get replacements of all three lines -> oil feed, oil return and coolant. Chances are the failure of one of those is what caused the problem in the first plac

Runs great now and with all the nice features I’m calling her lil’ luxury.

Here is my experience with the dreaded P0299 code. Was looking for an AWD encore with not terrible number of miles and lots of features. Anything with lower miles under 60k and a few years old were still very expensive. Then saw a 2013 Encore on dealerships ‘pre-auction lot’ meaning it wouldn’t be sold like normal. Definitely a red flag. Seemed ok but couldn’t take it far to get a feel. Told a mechanic friend and he noted they were known for turbo issues but he could swap out if needed.

My guess is the dealership reset the light and figured as long as test drives are only around the lot it won’t come on for a customer. With only a little over 50k miles it was probably 4k less than comparable models with similar miles. So I pulled the trigger and grabbed it.

Ran ok and figured since I work remote maybe can make it a year then replace turbo. But the light came on and off reporting the P0299 code each time. Then one day it went into limp mode not far from home. I turned off and back on and then it ran ok. But at that point figured it was time to replace.

Once turbo was off it was obvious the issue was the turbo was cracked. See pic. Also, looking at the oil line it is super narrow and while not clogged the oil in there was fairly thick. So if oil gets clogged then the actuator/wastegate may not get the lubrication needed to open and close properly. Heat builds up and you have cracks. Not sure there is a better design but all the videos I saw the oil feed line was always clogged.

Because you can’t see these cracks unless off completely dealers might try to do things to repair. It seems like if you get the code then plan on swapping out the turbo. It’s a shame when the dealership messes around trying other things when they know the turbo is probably shot. I’d be sure to use synthetic as well just due to the narrow feed line and lesser quality oil might cause clogs.

Also if you do this yourself best to get replacements of all three lines -> oil feed, oil return and coolant. Chances are the failure of one of those is what caused the problem in the first place.

Runs great now and with all the nice features I’m calling her lil’ luxury.

Thanks for the feedback and sorry for all the issues. Based on the research I've done you most likely have the LUV engine code and what you describe above is an unfortunate common issue. My Encore has the LE2 engine in and there isn't much info on the internet for my engine. I took the intercooler off and drained it ( not much water at 50K miles) and cleaned both in/out tubes and replaced the boost sensor. I also shook the exhaust around the second cat to see of there was anything broken inside. So far the code hasn't returned but it's only been a few days. I'm thinking if it comes back on then I am going to need to remove turbo and do a deeper inspection.

 

[Again]

That crack in the casting is not enough to affect boost. Mine has 3 cracks and it still regularly puts out 13.5 PSI. What is important is that the flap is free to close tightly. Sometimes the pivot point gets a dead spot. That's why it is important to disconnect the actuator from the gate and test the gate's movement. If there is a dead spot just turn the nuts on the actuator a full turn to elongate or shorten the shaft just so the shaft of the gate isn't sitting at the dead spot.

 

[Busted33]

Well the light came on again yesterday. I took the wastegate actuator arm off the wastegate and the wastegate was really hard to move at first. It broke free but I find as I am trying to operate it that it is a little sloppy and can be made to stick again if I wiggle the wastegate while moving it back and forth. Is this normal?

 

[Again]

No, it should be smooth. What I did I moved it back and forth like a hundred times until all of the carbon was gone or flattened out. Then moved the nut on the actuator a full turn so it wouldn't be stuck at the same spot all the time. Been a couple of years now maybe more and it still runs fine. There are kits online to insert brass bushings in there but it's a big job.

 

[Busted33]

No, it should be smooth. What I did I moved it back and forth like a hundred times until all of the carbon was gone or flattened out. Then moved the nut on the actuator a full turn so it wouldn't be stuck at the same spot all the time. Been a couple of years now maybe more and it still runs fine. There are kits online to insert brass bushings in there but it's a big job.

I really appreciate the feedback Again. Unfortunately my car, 2016 with LE2 engine, doesn't have any nuts on the actuator arm and is not adjustable. I dont think it would matter anyways as I can wiggle the waste gate lever up and down a little while actuating and it will get stuck anywhere in the travel. When it gets stuck it takes ALOT of effort to unstick it. I think Im looking at a new Turbo. I just hope there is an after market alternative that will be more durable. Any suggestions on which turbo to get?

 

[lisalan]

This is my suggestion: avoid a Buick Encore! I have a 2013, bought it used in July 2020 with low mileage on it! The week after, codes 106/107/299, underboost.
My mechanic who has serviced my vehicles for the past 10 years told me I could still run it but it would be harder on gas.
It’s now been in and out of the garage with many issues since the last few months: oil leaks, coolant leak so I spent $1100 to get it fix but as soon as I drove it home, noticed a smell of burning oil… and oil was getting low super fast. Got it in the garage again, intercooler damaged and turbo cracked. So they changed the Turbo, drove it home in grey smoke! Quite pissed. Now I have a blown piston and need a new motor! This could’ve been avoided by chsnging the turbo as soon as they found out it was cracked!

 

[lisalan]

This is my suggestion: avoid a Buick Encore! I have a 2013, bought it used in July 2020 with low mileage on it! The week after, codes 106/107/299, underboost.
My mechanic who has serviced my vehicles for the past 10 years told me it was my turbo as the gate would stay shut. He cleaned it to free it but the check engine came back. He said I could still run it but it would be harder on gas.
Had issues here and there since but never had I ever thought it would get worse.
It had a leak in the valve cover so they replace the gasket then it got worst as it got low on oil and oil was all over everywhere, the gasket wasn’t placed correctly so they changed the valve cover.
Then noticed between regular oil changed that the oil level had dropped which never happened before.
It’s now been in and out of the garage with many issues since the last few months: oil leaks, coolant leak so I spent $1100 to fix those issues with a cracked turbo. They said I could still drive it! Drove it home, got worst as oil level would go down in a matter of a couple days. Brought it back, they said I needed to changed the turbo as it was full of oil so they replaced it. Now grey smoke… blown piston, intercooler damaged so need new motor plus new intercooler. So who’s at fault here?

 

[Mamaw's Encore]

Wow so salty.

 

[Again]

So who’s at fault here?

You are.

 

[G-136897]

You are.

I'm not as I always took care of my vehicle!

 

[Buddy!]

After a nightmare with my 2011 Equinox and dumping $7k into it only to be stranded 3 times in a month I was about to swear off GM altogether but decided to give the 2019 Buick Encore a try. Other than getting used to the lack of cargo space and feeling every bump in the road, I do like the look of it, the height and gas mileage. I'm still adjusting to the smaller size vs what I'm used to. What I wasn't planning on was having it for only 4 mos and seeing the horrific check engine light after everything I just went through! I quickly took it to the dealer to find out what the problem was and they could find nothing wrong with it?? According to my invoice the code was the P0299. So they sent me on my way after clearing the code. After researching this code I'm starting to worry. I had noticed hesitation at times when starting out from stop signs and some rough idling at red lights recently. I thought it was in my head and some sort of PTSD from flashbacks of my Equinox letdowns. But apparently my fears could be real after reading this and I'm concerned as we are planning on driving this car in the near future on vacation. I'm really hoping that GM is not going to let me down again. I have only driven GM vehicles since I was 16 and this is my first and possibly last?? Buick/GM. If anyone has any helpful info on this problem it would be greatly appreciated. Hoping I do not see this code again! But I have a bad feeling....

If you unplug the mass air flow sensor it will allow it to go into limp home mode. You can find the mass air flow sensor on the intake side of hoses. You still need to repair the problem but this can resolve it on the highway.

 

[G-765074]

Best advice: Stay away from these. Cracked turbo led to so many issues inluding blown piston. Replaced the engine... a few weeks after, oil leak, coolant leak, intercooler leak... so glad I sold mine. New owner knows the issues I had but wanted it. Never again.

 

[oregon_rider]

The newer buick encores come standard with the le2 direct injected engine. So it is a different animal...

For the more common luv engine...

The 6 speed transmission is very, very reliable with decent service intervals. Change transmission fluid every 30-40k miles.

I believe your 2013 was the first model year and had a higher failure rate

That being said, weaknesses on the later models are pcv system, turbo failure and to a latter extent leaks in the cooling system.

PCV system can be updated with kits that are available. The valve is incorporated into the intake manifold and the kits seal this off and go to an external (and serviceable) pcv valve.

For the turbo, I believe using premium fuel will lead to more efficient and cooler running. Which in turn, leads to greater turbo reliability. In addition, the turbo oil feed tube can become coked up and clog. It is very inexpensive and easy to replace. A fif It should be replaced at regular intervals. For example I will replace my daughter's oil feed pipe every 36k miles.

Due to the extreme heat the turbo oil feed tube is subjected to, only a top quality fully synthetic dexos approved motor oil should be used. I like mobil 1 synthetic 5w30. Pennzoil platinum synthetic is made from natural gas and is also very good. I change the oil every 5k miles. I won't run the oil change minder below 30 percent.

Coolant leaks occur around the turbo. There are youtube videos showing how to cut the stock line to replace only the rubber part of the line and leave the hard pipe in place. This runs behind the exhaust manifold. At 60k miles, I will replace this little section of line with some silicone hose (as a precautionary measure.

The thermostat housing is made of plastic and becomes brittle with age and heat cycles. As a preventative measure this will be replaced with an aftermarket steel part at 60k miles when the coolant is flushed.

So above is my summary of bullet proofing the engine to avoid issues. . In summary,

1. Install pcv fix kit.
2. Replace turbo oil feed line every 30k miles
3. Replace rubber part of turbo coolant line with silicone hose.
4. Run only premium fuel.
5. Use only fully synthetic oil and change at max of 5k miles.
6. Replace plastic thermostat housing with aftermarket one made from aluminum.
7. Change transmission fluid every 36k miles.

 

[Sskolii]

The newer buick encores come standard with the le2 direct injected engine. So it is a different animal...

For the more common luv engine...

The 6 speed transmission is very, very reliable with decent service intervals. Change transmission fluid every 30-40k miles.

I believe your 2013 was the first model year and had a higher failure rate

That being said, weaknesses on the later models are pcv system, turbo failure and to a latter extent leaks in the cooling system.

PCV system can be updated with kits that are available. The valve is incorporated into the intake manifold and the kits seal this off and go to an external (and serviceable) pcv valve.

For the turbo, I believe using premium fuel will lead to more efficient and cooler running. Which in turn, leads to greater turbo reliability. In addition, the turbo oil feed tube can become coked up and clog. It is very inexpensive and easy to replace. A fif It should be replaced at regular intervals. For example I will replace my daughter's oil feed pipe every 36k miles.

Due to the extreme heat the turbo oil feed tube is subjected to, only a top quality fully synthetic dexos approved motor oil should be used. I like mobil 1 synthetic 5w30. Pennzoil platinum synthetic is made from natural gas and is also very good. I change the oil every 5k miles. I won't run the oil change minder below 30 percent.

Coolant leaks occur around the turbo. There are youtube videos showing how to cut the stock line to replace only the rubber part of the line and leave the hard pipe in place. This runs behind the exhaust manifold. At 60k miles, I will replace this little section of line with some silicone hose (as a precautionary measure.

The thermostat housing is made of plastic and becomes brittle with age and heat cycles. As a preventative measure this will be replaced with an aftermarket steel part at 60k miles when the coolant is flushed.

So above is my summary of bullet proofing the engine to avoid issues. . In summary,

1. Install pcv fix kit.
2. Replace turbo oil feed line every 30k miles
3. Replace rubber part of turbo coolant line with silicone hose.
4. Run only premium fuel.
5. Use only fully synthetic oil and change at max of 5k miles.
6. Replace plastic thermostat housing with aftermarket one made from aluminum.
7. Change transmission fluid every 36k miles.

My Buick 2020 encore gx came up with this code, took it to get fixed, said it was the filter and the check light went away. Came back next day and took it again, they looked at it and said it was a sensor and they recommended me going to a Buick dealer ship. They can’t check it out until 2024 which I don’t have that time to wait. Is there any suggestions? Will changing the turbo be the answer ?

 

[Cal4T5]

Dealer is replacing the turbo (with aftermarket) for the same code...

My question is, when they replace the turbo, do they also replace the oil feed line, replace/clean hoses?

 

[Cal4T5]

The newer buick encores come standard with the le2 direct injected engine. So it is a different animal...

For the more common luv engine...

The 6 speed transmission is very, very reliable with decent service intervals. Change transmission fluid every 30-40k miles.

I believe your 2013 was the first model year and had a higher failure rate

That being said, weaknesses on the later models are pcv system, turbo failure and to a latter extent leaks in the cooling system.

PCV system can be updated with kits that are available. The valve is incorporated into the intake manifold and the kits seal this off and go to an external (and serviceable) pcv valve.

For the turbo, I believe using premium fuel will lead to more efficient and cooler running. Which in turn, leads to greater turbo reliability. In addition, the turbo oil feed tube can become coked up and clog. It is very inexpensive and easy to replace. A fif It should be replaced at regular intervals. For example I will replace my daughter's oil feed pipe every 36k miles.

Due to the extreme heat the turbo oil feed tube is subjected to, only a top quality fully synthetic dexos approved motor oil should be used. I like mobil 1 synthetic 5w30. Pennzoil platinum synthetic is made from natural gas and is also very good. I change the oil every 5k miles. I won't run the oil change minder below 30 percent.

Coolant leaks occur around the turbo. There are youtube videos showing how to cut the stock line to replace only the rubber part of the line and leave the hard pipe in place. This runs behind the exhaust manifold. At 60k miles, I will replace this little section of line with some silicone hose (as a precautionary measure.

The thermostat housing is made of plastic and becomes brittle with age and heat cycles. As a preventative measure this will be replaced with an aftermarket steel part at 60k miles when the coolant is flushed.

So above is my summary of bullet proofing the engine to avoid issues. . In summary,

1. Install pcv fix kit.
2. Replace turbo oil feed line every 30k miles
3. Replace rubber part of turbo coolant line with silicone hose.
4. Run only premium fuel.
5. Use only fully synthetic oil and change at max of 5k miles.
6. Replace plastic thermostat housing with aftermarket one made from aluminum.
7. Change transmission fluid every 36k miles.

Can you send me a part number for silicon hose? Need a little more info on replacing the rubber part of turbo coolant line. Can you also share more info on PCV fix kit?

 

[Cal4T5]

Can you send me a part number for silicon hose? Need a little more info on replacing the rubber part of turbo coolant line. Can you also share more info on PCV fix kit?

@oregon_rider I am unable to DM you (probably because im a new member?)

Can you tell me if these are right?

Turbocharger Coolant Return Line

Turbocharger Coolant Feed Pipe

 

[ms14796]

I have a 2016 Encore with the PO299 error code. The dealer is at a loss as to what to do. They reset it and in a couple weeks it is on again. should they replace the turbo?

I would have them check the turbo waste gate linkage. Mine wasn't throwing codes but power was off and my fuel mileage dropped. Discovered wear on the linkage eyelet so I backed off the adjustment nut 1/8" & retightened it. Huge improvement. MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor) controls boost pressure. Vacuum diaphragm opens waste gate to regulate boost. With valve open exhaust gas bypasses turbo impeller & out exhaust.