check engine

the check engine light at the dashbord sometimes going on and of. ignition coils and ICM are new.
what can it be.
EGR-valve or O2-sensor?
If your car is OBDI like pre 1996 you can use a paper clip to read the codes. Go to youtube and search reading Buick Park one I 1 codes with a paper clip. If newer obd2 go to AutoZone where they can scan it for you.
 
If he had codes P0640 and P0705 it's not OBD1.
When you replaced the transmission range sensor did you disconnect anything related to the intake and not reconnect it or not fully seated the connector?
 
If your car is OBDI like pre 1996 you can use a paper clip to read the codes. Go to youtube and search reading Buick Park one I 1 codes with a paper clip. If newer obd2 go to AutoZone where they can scan it for you.
its an OBD 1.5, thats an OBD 1 system with an OBD II connector, but i dont know which pins i must connect with the paperclip to read it out.
If he had codes P0640 and P0705 it's not OBD1.
When you replaced the transmission range sensor did you disconnect anything related to the intake and not reconnect it or not fully seated the connector?
yes i think, there are not so much. and if not i will get an failure code.
 
__________________________________
\ X | X | X | 4 | 5 | 6 | X | X /
`\ 9 | X | X |12 | X | X | X |16 /
``------------====-------------

Where: X denotes pins that are unused.

Short 5 (ground) and 6 (test) to recieve ECM error codes via the SES indicator.

Sorry its an attempt to show the connector in plain text.
 
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In post #9 he states he has a scan tool that shows P0705 so why would he have to try jumping pins like he has OBD1?
 
In post #9 he states he has a scan tool that shows P0705 so why would he have to try jumping pins like he has OBD1?
obd 1.5 from all my research shows that you can still get the code via the old system. a p0705 should flash as 705

12 as the constant, check

7 flashes, longer than next number flash pause, 5 flashes

maybe, i could be wrong
 
obd 1.5 from all my research shows that you can still get the code via the old system. a p0705 should flash as 705

12 as the constant, check

7 flashes, longer than next number flash pause, 5 flashes

maybe, i could be wrong
Not debating right or wrong, why bother if your scan tool works?
 
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obd 1.5 from all my research shows that you can still get the code via the old system. a p0705 should flash as 705

12 as the constant, check

7 flashes, longer than next number flash pause, 5 flashes

maybe, i could be wrong
Sorry, but did your research include the '94-'95 Buick OBD 1.5 with the OBDII ADLC? If not, I have to respectfully disagree with the research you found that works. There is no way to jump an OBDII connector to get flashing codes during those two Buick years! That all stopped in '93 with the 12-pin OBDI connector. Anytime after that, you need an OBDI-OBDII capable scanner such as an Actron 9690 which comes with all the cable adapters and can read both OBDI & OBDII codes.
 
Sorry, but did your research include the '94-'95 Buick OBD 1.5 with the OBDII ADLC? If not, I have to respectfully disagree with the research you found that works. There is no way to jump an OBDII connector to get flashing codes during those two Buick years! That all stopped in '93 with the 12-pin OBDI connector. Anytime after that, you need an OBDI-OBDII capable scanner such as an Actron 9690 which comes with all the cable adapters and can read both OBDI & OBDII codes.
the source i saw was for a 95 regal with the obd2 style, but still obd1 compliant rather than obd2 compliant(those sources said if obd2 it would be in engine bay, odly)

im not claiming to know, because i dont have them and i have a tech 2 and it wouldnt limit me anyway
 
Sorry, but did your research include the '94-'95 Buick OBD 1.5 with the OBDII ADLC? If not, I have to respectfully disagree with the research you found that works. There is no way to jump an OBDII connector to get flashing codes during those two Buick years! That all stopped in '93 with the 12-pin OBDI connector. Anytime after that, you need an OBDI-OBDII capable scanner such as an Actron 9690 which comes with all the cable adapters and can read both OBDI & OBDII codes.
i thought the OBD 1.5 System means thats is inside the ECM OBD 1 with an OBD 2 connector, therefour i thought its possible to jump it.
but however now i dont have any failure code.
and the check engine light dont flashes everytime, but now i dont driver longer ranges.
i have recognise my exhaust have before and after the catalytic converter 2 leaks with approximately 5mm, i close them.
i will see and report if the light comes again.
 
the thrill goes on....
now i have changed the EGR-valve too, its the same.
if i start driving my car the check engine light comes without any system and shines, till the next time i turn the engine off.
when i turn the key to on without the engine is running and i check the car with my actron scan tool,i d´ont get some failure code.
i only get sometimes one if i check it with shining "check engine" and running engine. P0640.
 
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cab it be...for a few minutes i start my PA and get some misfire. after a second attempt it runs perfect. ???
 
today i checked my PA with my actron scan tool and get some live datas like in the pics. maybe someone have some experiences with it, and caqn help me? at this time the "check engine" light is on. thanks....
 

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also, your engine ran for 4 minutes and was idling at 1000rpm this can be a sign of a vacuum leak or maybe even inconsistent MAF data, maybe MAP too (you were idling right?, TP sensor said 0% which i hope is accurate)
you also had Knock sensor indicate 23 times it re tarted timing to prevent pre-detonation caused by your car running a lean mixture

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your car is adding fuel by running the injectors more often because the oxygen sensor reads lean.
i think its actually lean(not faulty O2 i hope) because your knock re tard is functional and it had to pull timing which you see in lean mixtures

Can your tool plot data?if so, id like to see O2 sensor (mv), MAF sensor(gr/s), MAP (v), coolant temp (F), TP sensor(% or v)
i only say this because you should try monitoring the data at fully warmed up for a period of time, we are looking for MAF, O2, and MAP, and TP to jump around while seeing if engine temp is 1) correct 2) doesnt fluctuate unrealistically

then you would also want to try throttling and holding at different percentages open to see if map, MAF would level out and be consistent or if they jump all over while holding foot steady

also want to know if your TP sensor reads an accurate % all the way through the motion of your acceleration



If you want to check things first before diagnostic work, check your PCV for the o ring it needs and your MAP Sensor if its seated and sealed(I believe its on the pcv that year, right?)
check your Intake duct at TB to make sure its sealed all the way to your air filter. no air getting by the maf right?Check rubber hoses some come off the intake at the TB I believe and one goes to Fuel pressure for sure, one goes to CC stuff. one goes to evap can, one goes to your car interior for a blend door somewhere I Do believe, one goes to brake booster, could be others not sure 100%

also possible but less likely in my opinion is you may have spark plug issues or a fuel delivery problem, fuel pressure gauges can be rented and spark plugs could be tested individually for spark and plugs can be checked by ohm meter for internal resistance and coil packs can be tested for resistance.plug wires should be
fuel filter is prob old and icky anyway, so replace it if you can but i suppose you could verify pressure with a gauge, but fuel filters could just reduce the flow and the pressure might yet be maintained
 
i have checked my crankshaft sensor, and notice that the pully seat is not strong. i can take it without any pulley remover with my hand from the crankshaft.
some years ago i have renew it with an aftermarket part.
now i change it to an original one.
lets look if this is the problem, perhaps.....

whats the difference of this 2 pcv covers?
 

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They are for different 3.8L series engines, taller one has sensor.
 
yes, the engine is going in idling, cold engine.
whats a reference indicator for the KS counter when the MIL is on?

if the engine runs hot or cold, sometimes the Mil goes on and of, as its wants.
 

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i looked the service manual, there should be normaly no KS signal.
but i notice the O2s(mv) value with 462-471 is higher then it should be at 450.
the air/fuel mixture is to rich, but the exhaust 02 value means its LEAN.

the buick girl from mars is right.

my other datas are in right value.
only the KS counter, the lt fuel trim and the O2s(mv) are outside the norm.
any ideas?
 
update;
now i have an new o2 sensor, and the old prob.,

i found some guy with an odb-sun scanner and we ve found the failure codes 1640 and at the abs system 74,75,76,77, but they are only stored in the long time failure memory.

the MIL goes on and of in cold and hot condition how she like, if i turn the engine off with ignition, on the mil goes out.

after i drive about 100m the Traction off light is on.

please help.....
 
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