coolant elbows

[JGBuick]

How do I know if I have the metal upper intake gasket? It had the lower done at 34k and the manifold itself at the same time in 2002 so maybe they did it with the new gasket. But it still has the plastic coolant elbows. Also where did it leak when you replaced the plastic uim gasket? Or how did you know to replace it? Will the new dexcool also eat the gasket if I find out I have the plastic one?

Good question. ?? Do you have access to any records? There's also other gaskets that "could" have been used that were "upgraded" to include better materials. These were supposedly meant to deal with the DexCool issues. If your lower gaskets were repaired/replaced, then I'd venture to say they used a better gasket. I'm not 100% sure on if you can see any of the gasket protruding..??

Here's a thread from when I did mine awhile ago - Upper intake is leaking on 2002 Buick lesabre

You still have the plastic elbows?? Well... it's just a matter of time. You can watch them or replace them. But sooner or later....

Will the new DexCool 'eat" the current gaskets on your car? Don't know. Some say it's all about "Air in the system" and the condition of the system. Some say it's never been an issue.

Soooo.... lot's of conjecture and guessing here. The main thing is to be aware of the potential problems. Do a search on this site and you'll find lots and lots of posts.

 

[2000ltd]

Good question. ?? Do you have access to any records? There's also other gaskets that "could" have been used that were "upgraded" to include better materials. These were supposedly meant to deal with the DexCool issues. If your lower gaskets were repaired/replaced, then I'd venture to say they used a better gasket. I'm not 100% sure on if you can see any of the gasket protruding..??

Here's a thread from when I did mine awhile ago - Upper intake is leaking on 2002 Buick lesabre

You still have the plastic elbows?? Well... it's just a matter of time. You can watch them or replace them. But sooner or later....

Will the new DexCool 'eat" the current gaskets on your car? Don't know. Some say it's all about "Air in the system" and the condition of the system. Some say it's never been an issue.

Soooo.... lot's of conjecture and guessing here. The main thing is to be aware of the potential problems. Do a search on this site and you'll find lots and lots of posts.

I have the Carfax which showed an intake gasket and manifold repair in 2002 so I'm hoping it was the limit gasket and a revised intake manifold. My system came with dexcool in it at 87k and that's the reason I'm keeping it since it's had it for over 25 years so why change it. I'll just keep it fresh with a drain and fill every year.

 

[JGBuick]

I have the Carfax which showed an intake gasket and manifold repair in 2002 so I'm hoping it was the limit gasket and a revised intake manifold. My system came with dexcool in it at 87k and that's the reason I'm keeping it since it's had it for over 25 years so why change it. I'll just keep it fresh with a drain and fill every year.

Very good. I wouldn't worry too much about the gaskets. Just keep an eye-out on the elbows. You probably don't need to change the coolant out every year. It's a long-life coolant. By staying with the DexCool, you don't have to get every last bit out. What you're trying to avoid is mixing coolants. I'd say every 2-3 years is fine.

 

[2000ltd]

Excuse me if you're already aware of some of which I'm about to go over. There are (3) available tuning software that works with some years of GM PCMs (HP Tuners, EFI Live and Jet). My GMs are earlier (pre 2006) I only need support for the earlier J1850vpw (pre-CanBus) protocol, so I typically prefer to use the Jet software. However, each of these software have their own merits and some support newer model GMs. So, referring to the Jet SW, the attached pdf shows how to switch the fan control to the PCM as well as the settings that I prefer to apply to the fan control which works well for me. However, there are several caveats with tuning your PCM which I would be amiss to not highlight here for those who have no experience with changing any settings in your PCM. It's important to understand these caveats/risks.

1. Many newer GMs are not supported by any of these tuning software packages. You'll need confirm that your vehicle is supported.
2. Each PCM type has its own operating system (OS). Each OS supports different features. The P04 PCMs (the PCM used in my V6 FWD cars) by default control the cooling fans outside the PCM but the P04 OS supports switching the control to the PCM (as covered in the attached pdf). Provided your PCM is supported by a Tuning software, there is no assurance the fans can be controlled by your PCM or the fan settings are configurable. This would need to be confirmed.
3. I think all (3) of these packages work fairly well. But it's fair to say anytime that you start changing the PCM, there are always risks. Many folks tune & push programs with no issues. For myself, I have spare PCMs ready to go (which requires some additional knowledge). The primary point being each interested member will need to decide their own risk tolerance. I utilize a bench setup which permits me to program a PCM on my work bench then install it in the car. There are times when I also program them in the car but my preference is on the workbench just because it's safer since the program download is not competing with other modules on the serial bus.

It's a bit of a long winded answer but I felt it important to summarize what all is involved. The underlying concern to this particular task is with GM turning the cooling fans on so late which I think many members are not comfortable with. One additional point, when your AC is on, both cooling fans should soon become fully energized, which is a far less involved (and less elegant) method to get the cooling fans to turn on before the coolant temperature rises so high.

How can I verify that my PCM would allow me to change these settings through the tuner software. I don't want to get all that setup and then find out I'm unable to make these changes.

 

[RD_Atlanta]

I've searched, downloaded and opened various PCM calibration binary files saved on the internet this morning. I'm sure you are safe, it's supported in most GM PCM OS's, I'm sure the 00-05 LeSabre's are safe. If this is the only thing that you are interested in changing, it can be difficult to justify the investment for this one item. I'll send you a PM, possibly I can help you get this one item changed. This way you can weigh out if you want to buy the Jet SW & cable (or HP Tuners, or EFI Live). But certainly (in my view), being able to automatically switch on the cooling fans at a reasonable coolant temperature is important.

 

[2003LesabreDriver]

I posted this on another discussion but thought to share it here.

When you get the aluminum elbows file down the extra casting that was not removed near the O-ring so its flush. I found this extra material to bite into the ID of the intake and water pump. Once removed and the O-rings are lubed it slips right it. Its always good to lube the hole before you stick it in.....😉

 

[DrivenDaily]

Lube it with coolant, not anything else. Per BGFM.

 

[JGBuick]

Lube it with coolant, not anything else. Per BGFM.

Yes. I've actually seen some others recommend using silicone SEALER or some form of RTV.
Do NOT DO THAT!!!!!

 

[2000ltd]

I posted this on another discussion but thought to share it here.

When you get the aluminum elbows file down the extra casting that was not removed near the O-ring so its flush. I found this extra material to bite into the ID of the intake and water pump. Once removed and the O-rings are lubed it slips right it. Its always good to lube the hole before you stick it in.....😉

Is that for all aluminum elbows or just the dorman ones? I have the gm elbows that came with the tensioner kit and am wondering if I need to file them down all around or just under the oring?

 

[02LTD2.0]

Is that for all aluminum elbows or just the dorman ones? I have the gm elbows that came with the tensioner kit and am wondering if I need to file them down all around or just under the oring?

Unless you notice that it's poorly finished leave it alone.

 

[2000ltd]

Unless you notice that it's poorly finished leave it alone.

I'll take a look at them when I get home from work but if there are casting errors I will file them down

 

[mlizotte]

These aluminum coolant elbows that we have all used to replace the original plastic ones on these 3800 motors. Ok... the problem is the O-rings break down, melt or something and then leak after 1.5 -2 years. I have had the is happen 2 other times. I have 3 cars with 3800's in them, 2 Lesabres and one Park Avenue, and all are leaking due to the O-rings failing on these aluminum elbows. Every 1.5 years or so is crazy to replace them just because the O-ring fails.
I called the company that makes of these aluminum elbows and the guy sounded surprised by this, almost like it was totally new. Searching the web today I read several times of many others having the same problem. This is not a new problem! So I ask for help here, what is the master plan to fix this so its once and done? Thank you.

Did you grease the o rings before install?

 

[JGBuick]

Did you grease the o rings before install?

Some say using "just" coolant is fine, but I use a very thin coat of silicone grease around the O-Rings and swab the insides of the metal receiving end. They slide/pop right in and I'm assured that the O-Ring isn't catching or tearing or binding up.

 

[02LTD2.0]

Some say using "just" coolant is fine, but I use a very thin coat of silicone grease around the O-Rings and swab the insides of the metal receiving end. They slide/pop right in and I'm assured that the O-Ring isn't catching or tearing or binding up.

I actually used petroleum jelly.

 

[2000ltd]

I used wd40 silicone spray, not ideal but it's what I had

 

[mlizotte]

Some say using "just" coolant is fine, but I use a very thin coat of silicone grease around the O-Rings and swab the insides of the metal receiving end. They slide/pop right in and I'm assured that the O-Ring isn't catching or tearing or binding up.

I've i seen people also use a little sandpaper in the holes too.

 

[JGBuick]

I've i seen people also use a little sandpaper in the holes too.

600-800 grit sandpaper for metal with water will clean-up things. The main reason for doing this is if the metal has corrosion or some mineral deposits which would interfere with O-Ring sealing.

 

[BuickGirlFromMars]

Some say using "just" coolant is fine, but I use a very thin coat of silicone grease around the O-Rings and swab the insides of the metal receiving end. They slide/pop right in and I'm assured that the O-Ring isn't catching or tearing or binding up.

2-EHA is in a lot of dexcools
a lot of coolants

Thats stuff that contributed to failed intake gaskets many years ago because coolant got behind the gaskets and destroyed the plastic carriers
The compound breaks down silicone
Silicone is highly migratory, and ANY silicone in the combustion chamber can quickly foul O2 sensors


Silicone isnt bad but its not necessary. Its potential to be pressurized into places easily over time or broke down (into things floating in your cooling system) is what the concern is


use coolant, its plenty slippery and does work and is meant to be there.

 

[BuickGirlFromMars]

I used wd40 silicone spray, not ideal but it's what I had

Petroleum distillates i believe in that product

 

[2000ltd]

Petroleum distillates i believe in that product

I know, I haven't installed it yet I've just put the elbows in the tensioner. I'm going to clean it out and use coolant before I install the tensioner