Finally!!!!!!!! Fixed my TRACTION-BRAKE-ABS lights always ON.

[JGBuick]

Did you have to bleed your ABS after the repair?
This scanner allows ABS auto bleed through the OBD2
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CSMJJK9/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A2YWURTSRUAKKQ&psc=1

Does the Buick LeSabre have the auto bleed through the OBD2?

The scanner I purchased does have the ability to test the ABS system.

No I didn't. Since I didn't open any of the hydraulic lines or mess with anything like that, I didn't need to bleed anything. (I just worked on the solder joints).

I purchased that scanner on a 'whim"... I'm sure there are much better scanners out there. (The Foxwell scanner you linked looks decent also.)

The scanner I purchased has a learning curve and the interface (report) mainly links to my phone app. It gets the job done and the company apparently knows what it knows.

Having notated that - I'm sure they hold-back features on the lower priced models. I wasn't going to spend $400-1,000 on a scanner and so forth.

Hope this helps.

 

[JGBuick]

no idea but i would bet it does a majority of functions based on what i can see in the video preview , but it depends on what you are trying to do

Yeah, I only pulled the trigger (Without doing a bunch of research) based on that YouTube video. I figured I'd try it and if it didn't find the ABS problem, I'd return it. It gave me a "code" which told me it was the electronic module and not a specific ABS sensor.

Like you said.. it's all about what you are trying to do.

 

[BuickGirlFromMars]

The scanner I purchased does have the ability to test the ABS system.

No I didn't. Since I didn't open any of the hydraulic lines or mess with anything like that, I didn't need to bleed anything. (I just worked on the solder joints).

I purchased that scanner on a 'whim"... I'm sure there are much better scanners out there. (The Foxwell scanner you linked looks decent also.)

The scanner I purchased has a learning curve and the interface (report) mainly links to my phone app. It gets the job done and the company apparently knows what it knows.

Having notated that - I'm sure they hold-back features on the lower priced models. I wasn't going to spend $400-1,000 on a scanner and so forth.

Hope this helps.

you didnt have to remove lines on yours right? just was a b*** to get at?

 

[GenXer]

There's a lot that happens with bad solder joints... But your lights are probably a different issue altogether. Hope yours is an easy fix.

JGBuick, thanks once again for your excellent post. I found this Innova 6030p scan tool on Amazon. Pretty awesome for $88. It has quite a lot more functionality compared to my basic, old $15 one. Sure enough, I'm getting the same code (see below).
I'll post back once I do this repair and let you know how it went for me. I'm pleased that, like with most things on this 3800 engine, the part is accessible without too much in the way of removing it. I still plan to take my time and reseal it properly so it doesn't leak after I reinstall it.

 

[JGBuick]

JGBuick, thanks once again for your excellent post. I found this Innova 6030p scan tool on Amazon. Pretty awesome for $88. It has quite a lot more functionality compared to my basic, old $15 one. Sure enough, I'm getting the same code (see below).
I'll post back once I do this repair and let you know how it went for me. I'm pleased that, like with most things on this 3800 engine, the part is accessible without too much in the way of removing it. I still plan to take my time and reseal it properly so it doesn't leak after I reinstall it.

Glad I helped someone! Thanks very much! Actually, I wish I had taken more pictures to help. The hardest part was getting those screws out and then breaking that OEM seal. Take your time and just keep at it. The actual solder joint was suspect and it definitely was "broken".

Another weird thing... The Traction, ABS and Brake lights have occasionally come "ON" a few times. It's strange... like there's a residual memory or something... I'll park the car and 2-mins later.... it's gone. ??? I'm okay with that. It's been months without seeing those damn lights and I'm thrilled!

Yes, that 6030p scanner is decent for the money! The interface is... not my favorite... but?? The codes are there and that's the key.

Good Luck with your repair!! Hope it goes well for you!

 

[GenXer]

Yes, that's exactly what mine is doing. Lights are on most of the time but also off sometimes. That's why I started to think about temperatures or loose wire somewhere...until I found your post...so thanks! I'm probably gonna tackle it this weekend and will report back. I sure appreciate the info you posted here! Edit: Although there's a 10 year difference in age between my Lesabre and my Enclave....I'd rather have TWO Lesabres than another Enclave. I don't want to go on a rant right now but....it's much harder to work on the Enclave and I'm no fan of the direct injection on the Enclave. I'm investing in a walnut blaster to keep the valves clean and will need to replace cats on the Enclave.

 

[JGBuick]

Yes, that's exactly what mine is doing. Lights are on most of the time but also off sometimes. That's why I started to think about temperatures or loose wire somewhere...until I found your post...so thanks! I'm probably gonna tackle it this weekend and will report back. I sure appreciate the info you posted here! Edit: Although there's a 10 year difference in age between my Lesabre and my Enclave....I'd rather have TWO Lesabres than another Enclave. I don't want to go on a rant right now but....it's much harder to work on the Enclave and I'm no fan of the direct injection on the Enclave. I'm investing in a walnut blaster to keep the valves clean and will need to replace cats on the Enclave.

I hear yah' on the newer direct injection engines - Not what they are cracked-up to be! I rented an Enclave a few years ago and really liked it. Too bad GM didn't keep the port injectors in tandem (like Toyota does) on some of their engines. I still love my LeSabre though... I just wish some of the minor gripes would go away. Right now, I'm needing front struts and the engine mounts are annoying as all Hell.

 

[BuickGirlFromMars]

I hear yah' on the newer direct injection engines - Not what they are cracked-up to be! I rented an Enclave a few years ago and really liked it. Too bad GM didn't keep the port injectors in tandem (like Toyota does) on some of their engines. I still love my LeSabre though... I just wish some of the minor gripes would go away. Right now, I'm needing front struts and the engine mounts are annoying as all Hell.

There is only one engine mount and it’s a A lot easier than 97-99 park avenues haha! But the driver wheel well and rear trans mounts are a lil involved

 

[JGBuick]

There is only one engine mount and it’s a A lot easier than 97-99 park avenues haha! But the driver wheel well and rear trans mounts are a lil involved

You're talking about that big rubber engine mount in front of the engine, correct? I believe this was discussed in another thread. It's funny because I had just replaced this mount about 6K ago... Apparently, they don't last long. Very annoying when shifting (And driving!) as there's this "thud"...

I can feel the engine rocking on it's axis. Sigh.....

 

[BuickGirlFromMars]

You're talking about that big rubber engine mount in front of the engine, correct? I believe this was discussed in another thread. It's funny because I had just replaced this mount about 6K ago... Apparently, they don't last long. Very annoying when shifting (And driving!) as there's this "thud"...

I can feel the engine rocking on it's axis. Sigh.....

i would only say its failed if you can physically see it move. the rear and 2 side mounts are still at play. especially the rear. I actually was talking about the engine mount. which is by your serpentine belt. thats the only mount that is on the engine. it bolts to the bracket that connects to oil pan and block, and it mounts to the body. (Torque-Axis Mount)
The wheel well on driver side is a similar mount, but its annoying to do despite how open it is

Then there is the big strong mount by your feet on the rear of the subframe by the steering rack. (to give a relative position) it is on the subframe and mounts into a bracket off your transmission

 

[BuickGirlFromMars]

before the 2000 model year the torque axis mount sat in a recessed part of the frame channel and was annoying to get to, and the bracket for it made replacing the belts a LOT more involved simply because it goes over the path of the belt(s)
the blue painted part in the 2nd photo is the flat piece on the bottom of the 2 mounts in the 1st photo. the bucket "sat" in the frame, and then through bolted in 3 places to the unibody

but thankfully lesabre has no such issue:



2000+ they used this setup above which is the mount by the belt, which looks a lot like the driver side mount, and it sits lower, out of the way, and it works better anyway. the bracket requires the use of an aluminum oil pan which makes the oil pan-mount- block a structural combination literally to the engine. Having a stronger bottom end is not a bad thing

 

[DavidT]

View attachment 40502View attachment 40501
before the 2000 model year the torque axis mount sat in a recessed part of the frame channel and was annoying to get to, and the bracket for it made replacing the belts a LOT more involved simply because it goes over the path of the belt(s)
the blue painted part in the 2nd photo is the flat piece on the bottom of the 2 mounts in the 1st photo. the bucket "sat" in the frame, and then through bolted in 3 places to the unibody

but thankfully lesabre has no such issue:
View attachment 40503


2000+ they used this setup above which is the mount by the belt, which looks a lot like the driver side mount, and it sits lower, out of the way, and it works better anyway. the bracket requires the use of an aluminum oil pan which makes the oil pan-mount- block a structural combination literally to the engine. Having a stronger bottom end is not a bad thing

Can you help me out on my thread please. I’m completely stumped. Thanks

 

[BuickGirlFromMars]

 

[GenXer]

JGBuick, thanks once again for your excellent post. I found this Innova 6030p scan tool on Amazon. Pretty awesome for $88. It has quite a lot more functionality compared to my basic, old $15 one. Sure enough, I'm getting the same code (see below).
I'll post back once I do this repair and let you know how it went for me. I'm pleased that, like with most things on this 3800 engine, the part is accessible without too much in the way of removing it. I still plan to take my time and reseal it properly so it doesn't leak after I reinstall it. Edit: Got it done tonight! No more codes! I used a small 1/8 ratchet and combo-screwdiver part to reach the recessed T20 screws, recruited my stepson to resolder the cracked solder joints. I used tape to hold the torx screws on my driver. This would gave been a complicated job for me but I got it done in about 2 hours, taking my time. Many thanks JGBuick!

 

[BuickGirlFromMars]

good choice of sealant

 

[JGBuick]

Awesome! That's exactly what I did. Thanks for the pics! Sooo.... Success???

 

[GenXer]

Awesome! That's exactly what I did. Thanks for the pics! Sooo.... Success???

Yep! Got instant gratification watching all those lights turn off and stay off after I started the car. No more codes! I forgot to add that I had some slight trouble getting that lower plug to budge...but I managed to get it off by sliding a thin flat screwdriver staight down into the clip, then was able to push it off. I also used the tap method by drilling and tapping that hole on the module and then inserting a screw thru the hole to push the back plate off. The torx screws were intimidating at first since you can't seem them all and have to work by feel but it wasnt' as hard as I thought it would be. This was fun. Finally, I want to Repairpal.com just to see what the "estimate" would have been for an ABS module and figure I saved $1,000 doing this vs having a dealer replace the module. I like to "reward" myself by looking up Repairpal.com estimates after I work on the car LOL.

 

[JGBuick]

Yep! Got instant gratification watching all those lights turn off and stay off after I started the car. No more codes! I forgot to add that I had some slight trouble getting that lower plug to budge...but I managed to get it off by sliding a thin flat screwdriver staight down into the clip, then was able to push it off. I also used the tap method by drilling and tapping that hole on the module and then inserting a screw thru the hole to push the back plate off. The torx screws were intimidating at first since you can't seem them all and have to work by feel but it wasnt' as hard as I thought it would be. This was fun. Finally, I want to Repairpal.com just to see what the "estimate" would have been for an ABS module and figure I saved $1,000 doing this vs having a dealer replace the module. I like to "reward" myself by looking up Repairpal.com estimates after I work on the car LOL.

Nice work! Glad to hear it worked for you! 👍 I would imagine a shop charging some beaucoup $$$ for this. 😉 👍

 

[GenXer]

Nice work! Glad to hear it worked for you! 👍 I would imagine a shop charging some beaucoup $$$ for this. 😉 👍

IKR?! I've been saying the same thing. In fact, most shops wouldn't bother to repair and would just charge to replace a module for $1,000+ or, even worse, throw a parts-cannon at the ABS system. Pre-internet days we'd have to do that but there is so much knowledge being shared online now.

 

[BuickGirlFromMars]

IKR?! I've been saying the same thing. In fact, most shops wouldn't bother to repair and would just charge to replace a module for $1,000+ or, even worse, throw a parts-cannon at the ABS system. Pre-internet days we'd have to do that but there is so much knowledge being shared online now.

In the age of information especially. Its hard to take the service industry seriously especially when you have incompetence and fraud being too common.

Albeit, I understand on the same vain when the industry is not paying.. unless you know where to go. but the problem there is society clearly is okay with service work existing, we want professionals and we want them to be honest.

but ask a new tech... theres something missing. The outlook for a new guy is... well... not good. And the industry is squeezing more from their labor for less and less wages. and benefits. And then we casually accept tool truck racketeering and abusing things like walking back on warrantying and you name it.

We are gonna get caught with pants down and deer in headlights look holding 100$ in one hand and crying when you see it in the news later over this problem. We are in a bubble for car loans and people are getting newer and newer cars at unsustainable loans and most people live paycheck to paycheck, and being able to repair a car thats already been used or used more is going to be shooting up in demand and people are willing to be apathetic and not work than be working for nonsense with no opportunity and a parts racketeering industry and a car being more and more needed to get to work for many.........

Something is going to give. and its not going to be the only thing that then goes out. and its by design.
Those responsible will be first in line for government bailout and will ask what happened how did we get here!?