Horn won't stop, switch in steering wheel stuck

aroethli

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95 RMS

The horn switch in my steering wheel is stuck "on". So when the fuse for horn isn't blown, it will sound constantly until the fuse eventually overheats and blows.

It used to only stick occasionally and "massaging" the steering wheel/air-lbag pad would get it to stop, but that is no longer the case.

Has anyone had this problem and been able to fix it?

Thanks!
Al
 
Been there. This is a common problem on the 95's. The horn switch is buried in the air bag module. I have not heard about anyone successfully repairing one (you definitely want to be REALLY sure of yourself if you tear an airbag open for repair). Two alternatives. First, hunt down a replacement airbag module (not sure what years are compatible, but 95's and 96's will work). Second option is to wire a separate horn button off the wheel. I replaced the airbag module. It is really easy.

In the mean time, you can just leave the fuse out.

Brett

96 RMW
95 RMW
96 Impala SS (sold)
96 Caprice wagon (sold)
85 OCC (sold)
85 Delta 88 (sold)
84 Delta 88 (sold)
78 Caprice wagon (sold)
 
I know the 96 Caprice one is different than the 94/95 Caprice one. I don't know if Roadmasters follow this trend.
 
Yeah,...it is just a failure of a design. I swapped out my airbag for another and it ended up doing the same thing. I am going to have to put a switch in line to the horn relay I think.
 
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My 95 did the same thing word of advice no mater how " cool/neat" it may sound at the time don't put in knee reach...you'll pay for it . I had to cut it and move again.
 
Thanks for all the quick replies. I guess on one hand it is a relief that this is a well-known problem, but on the other hand a bummer that it isn't easily fixed.

So, has anyone verified that:

1) The 96 airbag/horn module will fit in a 95 wheel?
2) That the 96 module for the Buick fixes the issue?


... would it be easy(ier) or better to just find a complete replacement 96 steering wheel versus fixing mine by doing an airbag transplant?

Thanks again!
Al
 
My '95 is doing this and so far the massage method is keeping the horn quiet. I pull the fuse at night as a precaution (One incident at 1:30am is enough thankya), I'll be checking the pull-a-part for a donor car for switches and such.
 
95 RMS

The horn switch in my steering wheel is stuck "on". So when the fuse for horn isn't blown, it will sound constantly until the fuse eventually overheats and blows.

It used to only stick occasionally and "massaging" the steering wheel/air-lbag pad would get it to stop, but that is no longer the case.

Has anyone had this problem and been able to fix it?

Thanks!
Al
Hyper Tough 12-Inch Trigger Ratcheting Bar Clamp and Spreader

Hyper Tough 12-Inch Trigger Ratcheting Bar Clamp and Spreader - from Walmart $6.44

U just need this placed on the center of the driving wheel and tighten it where it will not slip off: for about a week and the problem goes away
 
Hyper Tough 12-Inch Trigger Ratcheting Bar Clamp and Spreader

Hyper Tough 12-Inch Trigger Ratcheting Bar Clamp and Spreader - from Walmart $6.44

U just need this placed on the center of the driving wheel and tighten it where it will not slip off: for about a week and the problem goes away
 

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Place the clamp across the steering wheel, on center, and tighten ? Is a spreader bar involved? Thanks.
 
I'm not sure what a clamp is, we already pointed out 2 ways to fix it
The second way takes longer, but when u use the grip from Walmart, top right, left and center an indention will form and at thst point ur honking issue will stop until the indention needs to be made again🙄

Lastly there is no solution in the 1999 service manual for the Buick Lesabre 1999, which is odd because this this issue has been around for a while before 1999🤔

Please be sure to back trace the previous notes stated as I think typing it the first time is enough okay 😐🙃
 

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The clamp solution sounds like a short term fix? Is that procedure still working after 3-6-12 months? BTW, this thread is nearly 12-yrs old!
 
Last edited:
No need to start a new thread for an old problem 🙄
As far as I can tell the 1st option is a complete fix by taking off the steering wheel and cutting the foam away 🤔
For me that would be kind of hard as I think I am all thumbs 😐
However the clamp would appear to work for maybe 6 months or so when the foam might reexpand or not 🤔
No big deal just put the clamp back on it at night
Of course I assume ur switch for the horn has been tested to work and it's not sticking in the ON position, switch is under the hood 🙂
Okay
PS if the foam stays compressed then u won't need to use the clamp, however the clamp at night doubles to appear as a steering wheel lock device for a would be car stealers 🤔


The clamp solution sounds like a short term fix? Is that procedure still working after 3-6-12 months? BTW, this thread is nearly 12-yrs old!
 
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95 RMS

The horn switch in my steering wheel is stuck "on". So when the fuse for horn isn't blown, it will sound constantly until the fuse eventually overheats and blows.

It used to only stick occasionally and "massaging" the steering wheel/air-lbag pad would get it to stop, but that is no longer the case.

Has anyone had this problem and been able to fix it?

Thanks!
Al
Hi

I had to solve the problem for a 1999 Buick Lesabre limited today

It's an easy fix, no wonder these guys didn't put it into the repair manual
 

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Hi

I had to solve the problem for a 1999 Buick Lesabre limited today

It's an easy fix, no wonder these guys didn't put it into the repair manual
Part 2

Since there r more than 10 photos I have to breakup the repair instructions a bit

You need 3 tools and a piece of cotton

The 1999 has 2 screws holding the horn air bag on

These are 6 point t30 size bit on the end of the screw driver

Once u unscrew these 2 screws u can place a piece of cotton to hold the switch part in the photo position
 

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Part 2

Since there r more than 10 photos I have to breakup the repair instructions a bit

You need 3 tools and a piece of cotton

The 1999 has 2 screws holding the horn air bag on

These are 6 point t30 size bit on the end of the screw driver

Once u unscrew these 2 screws u can place a piece of cotton to hold the switch part in the photo position
Part 3

Then u can test the horn

It helps to disconnect both horns and use a voltage tester as shown in the photo until u r sure ur horn is not sticking

Further I did kind of twist the spring on the end of the switch to stay better in the white plastic part

Also note I use a battery switch device turn on and off the battery connection

Further there r 2 sides that can cause the horn to honk on the steering wheel, and in my case the left side of the steering wheel was causing the stuck horn honk
 
Part 3

Then u can test the horn

It helps to disconnect both horns and use a voltage tester as shown in the photo until u r sure ur horn is not sticking

Further I did kind of twist the spring on the end of the switch to stay better in the white plastic part

Also note I use a battery switch device turn on and off the battery connection

Further there r 2 sides that can cause the horn to honk on the steering wheel, and in my case the left side of the steering wheel was causing the stuck horn honk
Part 4

So I just disconnected the left side to the switch and disconnected the right side also and then connected the left side of the switch to the right side, this is not needed to be done, but I just wanted to see if the problem was in the wiring, which it wasn't

Further I did completely disconnect all wires so I could look closer at the removable air, horn, radio control part, and that step is not needed, I was just curious

Then just put the air, horn, radio control part back in place
 

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