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Installed New Front Hub/Bearing. Now ABS light stays on..lol what the heck!

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Well the new bearing/Hub/Sensor is in..and that stupid ABS light is still on!!.😡...I'll check into the wiring harness..would you happen to have a link to order that harness repair part? thanks for the tip!!

You can get the part from Autozone. The part # is 970-040. It cost me 44.99 and was a special order item. Took 2 days to get it.
 
You can get the part from Autozone. The part # is 970-040. It cost me 44.99 and was a special order item. Took 2 days to get it.

Thanks..Now I have to wait until the weekend before I can get back at this project..wifey has to drive the car the way it is till then..thanks for all the comments and suggestions..we'll figure it out & surely this will help others...
 
Just remember to let her know to pump the brakes so as to not lock them up when coming to a stop as there is no functioning ABS
 
After buying an airtex fuel pump that was defective right out of the box, I generally stay away from autozone for anything electrical, with the exception of fuses and spark plug wires
 
Common problem on alot of Buicks is the harness. The wires tend to break, partiularly after the bearing was changed. I went through three hubs before I actually found out that it was the harness that was causing the problems. The unfortunate thing is the codes can only tell you if a signal is not being received, not why its not being received. I kept getting a bad right front sensor code because the ECM was not receiving a signal from the hub.
All my trouble began by the ABS light, at first coming on then going out, a sign that the broken wire was making intermittent contact, until finally the gap was to big for the two ends to touch.
A new harness was very inexpensive and took about 45 minutes to replace. Just be warned that this is not as simple as unplug the old one and plug in the new one. The old one must be cut out of the main harness, and the new one spliced in. The new harness was about 2 feet long and usually comes with heat shrink crimp on connectors, but they can and have been known to oxidize and the connection fails, leaving you with the ABS light on again. I highly recommend soldering the splices together, then covering them with heat shrink tubing, then electrical tape over that. The splice should also be done in a protected, low splash area.


OK..the official result and cause of the ABS light staying on was; The "Wiring between the Hub/sensor and into the wiring harness". Please note; I only changed the right front bearing/hub & the ABS light was NOT ON, before I changed it..I did not pull-cut-break any wiring in changing the hub... Because of my lack of time to work on this, I ended up taking it to a local repair shop(Charged $75.00 for lbr) and had them do this.( only problem was I had the new gm wiring kit on the front floor & the teck didn't see it..so they used an aftermarket one, & I just paid them the $53.00 for it..now I have one for sale..$47.00.. lol).I just could not find the time this time of the year...anyway I officially tip my "Root Beer" to everyone who took the time to comment on this problem..an extra sip of Root Beer goes to "NFortin198" who shared his fix to this problem. We got the car at 32,000 miles on it (now 105,000) & it already had the wiring replaced before we got it! A friend of mine works at a major GM parts dealership & he said they sell a ton of this kits, he went on to say it again..we sell a ton of this wiring repair kits (GM Part Number is; 25737352)..so much that they have a hard time keeping them in stock!! I have some photos of the repair area if someone would like or need it..The mystery remains why does this ABS light occur when you just change the hub.??? Thanks a million for this great forum!!..!!
 
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I'm having the same issue with my 2004 Park ave. I changed both front wheel hubs when the howl started. My problem is my ABS and Trac lights are coming on but no codes are available. I checked wiring for continuity everything checked out.
 
I'm having the same issue with my 2004 Park ave. I changed both front wheel hubs when the howl started. My problem is my ABS and Trac lights are coming on but no codes are available. I checked wiring for continuity everything checked out.
the Codes Are C codes you need a tool that can read those
you also could have a hub that is defective. you just said you had a hub. ID the hub howlling warranty your defective hub if you have issue with quiet after that, then you know you need scan tool codes to ID which one (2nd new one could be bad, dont assume anything, get a mechanic to read the codes)
 
Anyone have a tutorial on replacing the ABS harness on these cars? (Other than cut and splice which I can do).

I would hate to replace two front hub/bearings just to find it was a harness.
 
This may help, not sure how far into the harness you need to go.
View attachment 38124
Thanks! Sure does! I was examining the wires yesterday. Interesting to see in the diagram - It shows a female connector that attaches to #11.
I don't see that (Unless, it is wrapped-up with tape and conduit)... RA sells a kit and there are others you splice. I would be happy with just crating my own of I could splice... But??? If it's really a "Plug & Play"?? IS it that simple?
 
Anyone have a tutorial on replacing the ABS harness on these cars? (Other than cut and splice which I can do).

I would hate to replace two front hub/bearings just to find it was a harness.
You do not splice the harness. high tension wire cannot be repaired
you can easily test the harness, its 2 wires to each wheel continuity and playing with it or even ohm testing can help here, you can also read the AC current off each wheel bearing. you spin a wheel and look for a consistent AC current and dropping off or spikes etc
 
Wait... There's splicing kits available on RA....??? What am I missing. If I follow my ABS harness to it's end... it disappears into a "trunk" of wires, I'm not 100% there's a Male/Female connection buried under all that conduit and tape. If not.... $100 plus seems a lot for few feet of stranded wire.
 
Wait... There's splicing kits available on RA....??? What am I missing. If I follow my ABS harness to it's end... it disappears into a "trunk" of wires, I'm not 100% there's a Male/Female connection buried under all that conduit and tape. If not.... $100 plus seems a lot for few feet of stranded wire.


but thats the thing. We have not determined your speed sensor harness is faulty, whats up?
Wait... There's splicing kits available on RA....??? What am I missing. If I follow my ABS harness to it's end... it disappears into a "trunk" of wires, I'm not 100% there's a Male/Female connection buried under all that conduit and tape. If not.... $100 plus seems a lot for few feet of stranded wire.
On your question, on my park avenue, the WEATHER PACK connections for the speed sensors are mounted to the driver side frame rail which is under the airbox, coolant jug on a park avenue.
Snapchat-292473884 - Copy.webpSnapchat-860162788.webp
Obviously I dont have a lesabre, and the ABS unit will be different and slightly different placement on a 2000+ park avenue/lesabre, but I suspect the speed sensor plugs are probably nearby on your car based on the diagram. I assume they still use Weather packs on a lesabre based on the diagram, but I digress. Here is mine visible.

They should all have a inter-locking plastic spear thing that physically doesnt allow them to separate until its pulled out. Similar to a seat connector iirc, similar to headlight harness if its anything like park avenue(same connector type, weather pack)


=======================================================================================

I JUST looked, it seems GM says this is for front speed sensor repairs

25737352​

1655184905053.webp
It seems to be the high tensioner type, and its affordable. you must splice it beyond the places of high tension of course. it has a new weather pack body, but i would suggest getting the right crimp tool for this because you dont want to play around with terminals that are gonna cause issues
1655185874971.webp1655186162586.webp
So after some service data diving, It seems the speed sensors ARE NOT a separate harness on lesabre up front. but part of the engine harness. According to what Im reading. this here is an example of hwere you would create a connector and plug in the passenger side harness(I realize thats a supercharger.. not sure why they used that on the lesabre data)

===================

Front Wheel Speed Sensor Wiring Harness Replacement (Right)​

Listen

Front Wheel Speed Sensor Wiring Harness Replacement (Right)​

Removal Procedure​

  1. 531609.gif


    NOTE
    Important
    The wheel speed sensor wiring is included in the engine harness. The wiring between the wheel speed sensor and the heat shrink sealed splices is high-flex cable and must not be repaired or spliced. This procedure replaces the high-flex cable with a jumper harness from a supplied repair kit.

    Turn OFF the ignition.
  2. Raise the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle in General Information.
  3. Remove the right front wheel. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation in Tires and Wheels.
  4. Remove the wheel speed sensor connector (7) from the wheel speed sensor (6).
  5. Remove the harness grommet (3) from the strut bracket (5).
  6. Remove the harness grommet (1) from the rail bracket (2).
  7. Remove the harness clip (4) from the rail bracket (2).
  8. Cut the engine harness conduit (1) to locate the 2 heat shrink sealed splices.

Installation Procedure​

  1. Replace the wheel speed sensor jumper harness. Refer to Wiring Repairs in Wiring Repair.
  2. Install the wheel speed sensor connector (7) to the wheel speed sensor (6).
  3. Install the harness grommet (3) to the strut bracket (5).
  4. Install the harness grommet (1) to the rail bracket (2).
  5. Install the harness clip (4) to the rail bracket (2).
 
but thats the thing. We have not determined your speed sensor harness is faulty, whats up?

On your question, on my park avenue, the WEATHER PACK connections for the speed sensors are mounted to the driver side frame rail which is under the airbox, coolant jug on a park avenue.
View attachment 38141View attachment 38142
Obviously I dont have a lesabre, and the ABS unit will be different and slightly different placement on a 2000+ park avenue/lesabre, but I suspect the speed sensor plugs are probably nearby on your car based on the diagram. I assume they still use Weather packs on a lesabre based on the diagram, but I digress. Here is mine visible.

They should all have a inter-locking plastic spear thing that physically doesnt allow them to separate until its pulled out. Similar to a seat connector iirc, similar to headlight harness if its anything like park avenue(same connector type, weather pack)


=======================================================================================

I JUST looked, it seems GM says this is for front speed sensor repairs

25737352​

View attachment 38143
It seems to be the high tensioner type, and its affordable. you must splice it beyond the places of high tension of course. it has a new weather pack body, but i would suggest getting the right crimp tool for this because you dont want to play around with terminals that are gonna cause issues
View attachment 38144View attachment 38145
So after some service data diving, It seems the speed sensors ARE NOT a separate harness on lesabre up front. but part of the engine harness. According to what Im reading. this here is an example of hwere you would create a connector and plug in the passenger side harness(I realize thats a supercharger.. not sure why they used that on the lesabre data)

===================

Front Wheel Speed Sensor Wiring Harness Replacement (Right)​

Listen

Front Wheel Speed Sensor Wiring Harness Replacement (Right)​

Removal Procedure​


  1. NOTE
    Important
    The wheel speed sensor wiring is included in the engine harness. The wiring between the wheel speed sensor and the heat shrink sealed splices is high-flex cable and must not be repaired or spliced. This procedure replaces the high-flex cable with a jumper harness from a supplied repair kit.


    Turn OFF the ignition.
  2. Raise the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle in General Information.
  3. Remove the right front wheel. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation in Tires and Wheels.
  4. Remove the wheel speed sensor connector (7) from the wheel speed sensor (6).
  5. Remove the harness grommet (3) from the strut bracket (5).
  6. Remove the harness grommet (1) from the rail bracket (2).
  7. Remove the harness clip (4) from the rail bracket (2).

  8. Cut the engine harness conduit (1) to locate the 2 heat shrink sealed splices.

Installation Procedure​


  1. Replace the wheel speed sensor jumper harness. Refer to Wiring Repairs in Wiring Repair.

  2. Install the wheel speed sensor connector (7) to the wheel speed sensor (6).
  3. Install the harness grommet (3) to the strut bracket (5).
  4. Install the harness grommet (1) to the rail bracket (2).
  5. Install the harness clip (4) to the rail bracket (2).
Thanks for all the pics and diagrams! Yes... true... we DON'T KNOW if the harness(s) are the culprit. But.... based on multiple inquiries, threads, and my own observations on my car... I would say I am 90% sure. Yes. continuity testing. But... NEED to find the end of the wires buried in the harness loom. ??? There's not a "Plug n' Play" that I can see right now... I'll get some pics here in a bit.

Having said that... IF it's the hubs etc. I would STILL change the ABS harness(s) because they appear to be so raggety, oily and needing replacement.
 
Thanks for all the pics and diagrams! Yes... true... we DON'T KNOW if the harness(s) are the culprit. But.... based on multiple inquiries, threads, and my own observations on my car... I would say I am 90% sure. Yes. continuity testing. But... NEED to find the end of the wires buried in the harness loom. ??? There's not a "Plug n' Play" that I can see right now... I'll get some pics here in a bit.

Having said that... IF it's the hubs etc. I would STILL change the ABS harness(s) because they appear to be so raggety, oily and needing replacement.
can you show me what you mean, a pic of your harness on either side

also, since you have no "ends" of the harness(They go into the connector on the ABS module pretty sure) you can just test your wheel bearings with a multimeter on the connector . get alligator clips or whatever on it, then spin the wheel in neutral, and spin it consistent, the ac reading should be consistent, and vary with speed,
 
can you show me what you mean, a pic of your harness on either side

also, since you have no "ends" of the harness(They go into the connector on the ABS module pretty sure) you can just test your wheel bearings with a multimeter on the connector . get alligator clips or whatever on it, then spin the wheel in neutral, and spin it consistent, the ac reading should be consistent, and vary with speed,
Buick Harness.webp

Just disappears into the harness... Where's the plug?
 
View attachment 38183

Just disappears into the harness... Where's the plug?
there is none, the plug is what you install if you do the harness fix the pic diagram is showing you what it looks like and where its at (good place to put it, accessible, not near the flex wire etc)
 
there is none, the plug is what you install if you do the harness fix the pic diagram is showing you what it looks like and where its at (good place to put it, accessible, not near the flex wire etc)
Sooo... One would cut into the harness at some point, attach a plug that mated to the 'new" plug of the new harness?
 
Sooo... One would cut into the harness at some point, attach a plug that mated to the 'new" plug of the new harness?
I believe so, it would hack off the harness on the car, and then the included connector is intended to be properly installed on the vehicle harness where its accessible and also not high tension wire

and then you use a crimp tool(That would be wise) to properly apply the new terminals to the wires, and then since its AC im pretty sure it doesnt matter which is which (could be wrong) and you install the connector body/seals, then seat the new harness into the vehicle plug you will have installed. i believe they do this because less incentivization to rig it with cheap butt splices and also to make your harness how it should have been factory LOL
 
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