Occasional No Crank On Start

[OhioGuy]

This is a 1999 Century, and the issue started about 2 weeks ago. Sometimes I go to start the car and I get no crank, no clicking or anything. I haven't found any specific thing that works but so far I've always been able to get it to start after waiting a little bit (5-15 minutes). When this does happen, the dashboard slowly lights up (like a dimmer) when I put the key in the run position. One would think battery, but the battery seems good.

It happened last night. Tried to jump start but that didn't do anything. The guy helping me, tapped the jumper cables together to check my battery and he got a big spark. Battery terminals look clean and secure. He suggested a dead spot in the starter motor, but I doubt that's the issue because of the dash lights slowly coming on.

Anyone had this happen before? Thoughts on what else to check?

 

[MelsRegal]

Have the battery load tested.

 

[OhioGuy]

Have the battery load tested.

If the battery were the issue, then jump starting would work. The other night when this happened, neither my jump box nor jumper cables to another vehicle allowed for any crank.

 

[HotZ28]

If the battery were the issue, then jump starting would work.

That is a false assumption!

 

[MelsRegal]

If the battery were the issue, then jump starting would work. The other night when this happened, neither my jump box nor jumper cables to another vehicle allowed for any crank.

Not true

 

[OhioGuy]

Have the battery load tested.

Where can I get the battery load tested? Is that something they can do at AutoZone? How is it done? Does the battery have to be removed/disconnected from the vehicle?

This issue stopped for a little bit, so I haven't investigated further, but it still happens every so often. It seems to happen more on hotter days when the car hasn't been started for a few hours. When it does occur, I can hear a relay click on whenever I turn the key to the crank position, and then click off when I release it, but the car does not crank at all. After some time of sitting and a few tries, it usually will crank and start fine. I've also connected my jump box, and it won't crank immediately but the jumping seems to help (I'm not sure).

 

[MelsRegal]

Any auto parts store can do it. Either the battery has to be removed or the car has to stay there while they do it.

 

[OhioGuy]

Any auto parts store can do it. Either the battery has to be removed or the car has to stay there while they do it.

It's not the battery. I had it load tested. They ran tests for an hour and said it failed the crank test. So I went ahead and replaced the battery (the battery was 4+ years old anyway). $130 for the battery, and all was good for about a week. Until tonight, when it happened again. I went to start the car, and no crank at all. I tried over and over again, still nothing. I popped the hood but didn't do anything else, tried again, and it started fine.
Any other ideas? Or anyone have similar issues with a GM vehicle from around this model year, 1999? My gut feeling is that this could be related to the VATS key system because it acted similar when I had a key made and the locksmith used the wrong VATS key number. But I'm using the original factory key now, so I'm not sure why VATS would be acting up.

 

[MelsRegal]

Could be starter relay or the starter or the ignition switch. Since it's inconsistent hard to pinpoint cause. I assume the security light is not on.

 

[chem_man]

Just because he battery is new do not assume it cannot be defective. Have the new battery load tested.

Over the last 10 years or so, I have purchased at least two brand new batteries that were defective due to internal defects. Quality control is not what it used to be.

 

[OhioGuy]

Could be starter relay or the starter or the ignition switch. Since it's inconsistent hard to pinpoint cause. I assume the security light is not on.

I don't think it's the starter. I've heard of "dead spots" in a starter, but if that were the case, I'm thinking it wouldn't turn over after just a few minutes (without moving it out of the dead spot). And then there's also the weird slow illumination of the odometer digits when this occurs. The odometer lights up immediately when I'm not having this issue. Can you think of any tests to rule out the starter?

The ignition switch seems okay, as far as I can tell. The crank position turns the accessories off until released, and I can hear a relay click in the dash on and then off with the crank position.

The security light is not on.

I have not checked the starter relay. Off hand, I don't know where it's located but I can find it (I have a Haynes manual). So I'll see if I can inspect and test that.

I've been trying to get a video of what happens, but I haven't caught it yet. When I do, I'll try to post it so you can see the odometer thing, hear the relay, see when it actually cranks, etc.

 

[HotZ28]

Could it possibly be the starter solenoid, or the connections to the starter & solenoid??

 

[chem_man]

deleted

 

[OhioGuy]

Could it possibly be the starter solenoid, or the connections to the starter & solenoid??

The connections look and seem secure to me. I jiggled to wires and they don't budge. No corrosion, dirt, or anything obviously wrong there. I'm not sure how to test and rule those things out in this case, considering it is a sporadic issue. It occurred more frequently and much worse when we were in the hot months, but it's still happening in the cold.

 

[OhioGuy]

Here's a video. You can hear me turning the key and see the gauges respond when I turn it to crank. No crank, until the last one. Thoughts?

I'm looking into replacing the ignition and crank relays (both are in the fuse box under the hood). I couldn't find an exact replacement relay online.

 

[MelsRegal]

So you replaced the battery and after that didn't have the charging system checked?
Do you have a voltmeter to check the battery?

 

[OhioGuy]

So you replaced the battery and after that didn't have the charging system checked?
Do you have a voltmeter to check the battery?

Yes, that's correct. What exactly should be checked with the charging system? I have an OBDII code reader that has battery and alternator tests on it. Both tests come out as good. I have also checked the system voltage with a multimeter and it read around 12V without the engine running and over 14V with the engine running. It's been a little while since I've checked that, though, so I may do it again here shortly. I'll check the battery voltage again...

 

[MelsRegal]

Around 12v is not accurate enough. Fully charged is 12.75 as you approach 12 you have a problem.

 

[OhioGuy]

Around 12v is not accurate enough. Fully charged is 12.75 as you approach 12 you have a problem.

I only said around 12 because I didn't remember exactly. Just checked again. It read 12.71V at the battery. Then I started the car and it read 14.3V at the battery while idling. After shutting off the engine, I checked again and it read 12.75V.

I also ran the battery and alternator tests on my OBDII reader and both came out as good. The alternator test requires me to rev up to 2000rpm for about 20 seconds. Other than that, I think it's only checking the charging voltage. It fluctuated between 14.07V & 14.3V.

 

[chem_man]

Disable the ignition or fuel pump by removing the appropriate relay or fuse, and then with the help of a second person, measure the battery voltage while the helper attempts to start the engine. Note the voltage reading while the engine cranks. Now, have the helper turn the headlights on and remeasure the battery voltage while the helper attempts to start the engine. Note the voltage reading while the engine cranks with the headlights on.

Now with the ignition or fuel pump relay or ignition restored, have your helper start the engine, turn the headlights on and have him turn the HVAC fan to the highest speed setting. Now put your Digital Multi-Meter on the AC volts function and choose either the lowest AC voltage range or the millivolt range. Place the negative test lead on the negative battery cable and then place the positive test lead on the battery output terminal on the alternator (the one under the rubber boot on the back of the alternator. Note that voltage reading (if the DMM is on the say 1 volt scale, you should see something like 0.0259 volts, or if the DMM has a mV scale you should see something like 25.9 mV).

Finally, please report the two cranking voltages and the voltage you see at the battery terminal on the alternator.